Slitting saw arbor

[morrisman]

I am planning on making a slitting saw arbor for a R8 spindle . Whats the best way to go about it ? I am thinking something like a 1" stub arbor with LH ? thread on it . I already have a 2MT stub arbor but its a 22mm type .... I want a 1" version . Would it be possible to make a straight shank slitting saw arbor to use in a R8 collet ?

Mike

[Swarfmaker1]

Mike, Look up the R8 shank specs and turn it between centres on your lathe, leave enough material for the saw mounting spigot and screw threads if you put them in. This will allow you to remove the arbor from the lathe and test in your mill spindle with some bearing blue to gauge the fit then return the job to the lathe and adjust your top slide angle, which ever way it needs to go. I don't mention hardening and grinding here because most of us don't have the equipment to do it properly.

My R8 Slitting Saw Arbor uses a socket head cap screw to retain the clamp plate. This is low profile and allows you to get closer to adjacent surfaces. This is a standard design for slitting saw arbors.

You can also make a plain shank arbor and use this in a collet but watch the runout as this can leave your saw cutting on 1 tooth. You'll be adding the run out from the plain shank spigot and the collet which are not perfect in most cases.


I am planning on making a slitting saw arbor for a R8 spindle . Whats the best way to go about it ? I am thinking something like a 1" stub arbor with LH ? thread on it . I already have a 2MT stub arbor but its a 22mm type .... I want a 1" version . Would it be possible to make a straight shank slitting saw arbor to use in a R8 collet ?

Mike

[morrisman]

Ok I've made #2 morse tapers at TAFE while making a live centre , and they turned out good actually . Method: I mounted a 2MT stub arbor in the chuck as a guide, then I set over the compound ..you run the tool up and down the taper and use the feeler guage to see where you are .. it worked great . Not sure if that will work with a R8 taper ? Mike

I used valve grinding paste and did a final grounding in of the taper with a 2 to 3 MT adapter sleeve..the teacher saw me and I was in deep **** ..he thought it was their adapter I was using ........the paste didn't harm the adapter as it is hardened anyway

[pipeclay]

........the paste didn't harm the adapter as it is hardened anyway

Is this what you were told or what you think.

[morrisman]

........the paste didn't harm the adapter as it is hardened anyway

Is this what you were told or what you think.


I should explain myself ..sorry

There were three teachers there and one of them actually suggested I do the valve paste thing and he said the adapter is hardened anyway . The second teacher came along ( did his apprenteship in the early 1960's ) and said " that's a good idea " . The third grumpy old fuddy duddy teacher spotted me doing it , and he complained and whined about it about it until I told him it is my adapter ...:doh:

[Swarfmaker1]

Generally it's the hardended surface that wears before the soft surface as the soft material picks up the abrasive and it becomes embeded in the surface. Think about how laps work.


I should explain myself ..sorry

There were three teachers there and one of them actually suggested I do the valve paste thing and he said the adapter is hardened anyway . The second teacher came along ( did his apprenteship in the early 1960's ) and said " that's a good idea " . The third grumpy old fuddy duddy teacher spotted me doing it , and he complained and whined about it about it until I told him it is my adapter ...:doh:

[morrisman]

looking on EPAY: I've seen the R8 saw arbors with what looks like a multi-stepped mount for different sized holes in the saw, they have a cap with a screw holding it all together . These don't look very robust to me . I prefer the stub type with the keyway and a large screw on nut . I'd hate to think what a blade would do if it flew off ....:o ninja's weaponry in the shed no less.

[pipeclay]

I dont think you would have much of a concern with the blade flying off ,generally the Speed of a slitting saw is fairly low.

What you may find with a keyless arbor is that the blade will slip.

[Big Shed]

I bought one of those multi step slitting saw arbors and wasn't impressed.

Made my own

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/recycled-dumbbells-131635/

I have one for each slitting saw, use them in either my ER collet chuck or the R8 1/2" Shank End Mill Holder ex CDCO.

Haven't had an issue with slipping of the saw in the arbor as yet.

[morrisman]

Nice Fred

Just what I was looking for ..I will pinch your design if you don't mind

BTW where did you find that neat tapping gadget

Have you used the arbors yet ? And how did they perform ?

Mike

[Big Shed]

Nice Fred

Just what I was looking for ..I will pinch your design if you don't mind

BTW where did you find that neat tapping gadget

Have you used the arbors yet ? And how did they perform ?

Mike

Fill your boots:2tsup: I don't think it is "my" design anyway, I probably combined several designs I have seen in various places.

Yes, I use these fairly frequently when I make closed end mandrels for my own and other peoples' pen making. The 3 thicknesses I use most are 1.0, 0.8 and 0.5 mm.

Here is a closed end arbor I made on Monday for a perfume atomiser, another one for a Baron pen kit is next to it.


182270