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View Full Version : Scheppach turning sharpening jig - 25



mick59wests
28th November 2011, 08:19 PM
at the H&F recent sale I bought a Scheppach 2500 grinder as well as the Scheppach woodturning kit. I had toyed with getting a Tormek but could not justify the extra $600. Anyway (limited use) the 2500 seems good but I have not worked out jig 25 for doing fingernail profile gouges and am hoping someone else has. I can get what seems like the right angle set but the jig seems like it needs to be locked in such a way that you cannot move it up and down while sharpening as this will change the angle but after 3 attempts I cannot work out how to do this. I must admit that I am not really sure this is what is needed. I am hoping someone out there has mastered this little beast and can give me some help.
I must admit to reading threads which say just get the tormek attachments and that's what I may end up doing but I would like to at least work this one out.
Any help appreciated.
cheers
Mick

dr4g0nfly
28th November 2011, 10:12 PM
This is not going to be easy to explain without a photo but I'll check again later, if someone has not posted a picture I'll add one when I get home.

To start with the jig is set-up wrong. the gouge clamp should be set at an angle to the jig bar. Also the bit being used as a locking clamp should be at the other end (nearer the gouge clamp) to cause the whole jig to sit forward.

Lastly the support bar on the grinder will need to be moved backwards to create a larger gap between the wheel and the bar.

Setting the whole system up is not too difficult. Put a tool into the gouge clamp and adjust for around a 2" sticking out. Adjust the locking clamp to give an amount of clearance from the support arm. Then set the angle of the gouge clamp to something that looks about right, then set the support bar such the gouge sits on the wheel.

Swing the tool from side to side to see the action required to achieve the swept back grind you’re after. You will note where the current grind does not meet the wheel correctly.

Now you will need to adjust (probably several times) the Gouge Clamp angle, the amount protruding (via the locking clamp) and the rearward set of the Support Bar to achieve the grind you want. The gouge clamp should have a method of identifying the set on it – record this for the future.

If you have been grinding by hand it may be impossible to achieve this at first so concentrate on the cutting edge and as you sharpen over and over the rest of the tool grind will be achieved.

Sturdee
28th November 2011, 10:39 PM
Any help appreciated.
cheers
Mick

There are three things that govern this type of system.

1. The angle of the two parts of the jig.
2. The distance between the bar and the wheel.
3. The distance of the edge of the tool to the front of the jig.

Unfortunately there are no instructions with the Seppach jigs, whilst the Tormek has a lot of guidance. So buying the jigs is a much better option but in the meantime buy the Tormek angle setting jig and try to find a local Tormek owner who can show you the angle the jig need to be set to.

If not possible let me know by pm and I'll work out the angle etc.

Peter.

Peter.

mick59wests
29th November 2011, 06:28 AM
Dragonfly,
thanks for the reply. I understood some of what you said (it does not completely surprise me that the jig was not setup correctly!!I). I still have not got my head around how to stop the actual jig moving up and down on the bar as this will surely change the ange as I am griding. I will have a play today (my day off for the week) but I know that a picture would be of enormous help to me. :2tsup:
thanks
Mick

Peter,
it does come with an 'angle finder' in the kit so I hope I will be able to successfully use this - once I work out how the thing actually works .
cheers

mkypenturner
29th November 2011, 06:41 AM
hey mick if all else fails just buy the tormek jig instead its waaaaaaaayyyyy better

dr4g0nfly
29th November 2011, 06:58 AM
Mick the photo I promised. I use a Scheppach Tiger with a Sorby Jig but not much difference.

You can see the locking clamp in front of the Support Bar/Jig interface and the angle I have my jig set to to give the grind I want.

Hopefully this will be enough to give you the information you need.

While I am here, on the side of my wheel you can see a 150grit jewellers wheel I've added. This is great for sharpening my skews on.

mick59wests
29th November 2011, 12:08 PM
Dragonfly,

much appreciated. :2tsup::2tsup: That makes far more sense even though it does NOT look like the picture supplied! I have a few old crappy tools and two brand new ones that need to be sharpened before using. I will try to sharpen these and then decide if I am going to pay the extra dollars for the Tormek set of jigs

cheers

Mick

cookie48
29th November 2011, 10:35 PM
mick59wests.
I have the same gear you have. Beware the main shaft is not rust proof. I allso found out that if you change the grinding wheel you might have to pack the shaft to fit. My mistake buying it in the first place.
Cookie

rsser
30th November 2011, 11:36 AM
Check out the Tormek vid:

Gouge Jig SVD-185 (http://www.tormek.com/en/jigs/svd180/video_svd180_en.php)

mick59wests
30th November 2011, 08:44 PM
Ern,

much appreciated for the link - very impressive. Whether I stick with what I have or end up with the Tormek jig, I hope I will be able to get that level of sharpness.

cheers

Mick