CA finish driving me mad

[Jack.Tar]

Afternoon all, I am having a lot of trouble getting the CA finish to work properly. I am using thin CA from timberbits and the glen 20 activation which he has a video of on his blog but the fine white mist which he is getting and then sanding off seemingly easy is like hard white toothpaste on mine. It doesn't seem to matter how much I sand them I still have the same white substance on my pen.

I spent about three hours on one pen yesterday only to throw it out in frustration when the white would not come off of it.

Any tips?

[MitchB]

Try it without the Glen 20, some people can get it to work, others have alot of trouble.
I use the GPW activator and never have had a problem.
Hope that helps.
Cheers, Mitch

[gawdelpus]

I never use activator on thin CA it set's quick enough without it ! ( a little patience ) hehe.
Cheers ~ John

[munruben]

I dont use activator at all. As John said "A little patience" :2tsup:

[Ironwood]

I find that I need to use the lightest whiff of the activator possible, otherwise I get the thick white stuff as well.
I also found I had a lot of trouble with the Glen20 when the humidity was very high.

I found that a slight delay before giving the CA a whiff of G20 helped, a bit of experimenting in your own shed environment will help you get better results.

[HazzaB]

Hey jack Tar,

I have just finished an order for a Mining company and did a shed load of pens, all finished with CA and BLO, and not a hint of Activator, an earlier thread on this same problem ( only a few weeks to a month ago) had a post from ( really sorry here, the name eludes me,) but he's an american and his video was the first one I saw about 3 years ago, and has worked for me (and still is) I brought 1 litre of BLO 3 years ago, gave Dad about 150 ml and done over 3,000 plus pens and still have about 450 ml left in the original bottle, I have used a Shed load of CA but. I will try and do a search and then Try and Link it to this thread (wish me luck, I'm pretty good at manual stuff but these complicators are a different thing)

HazzaB

Edit, 1st The You Tube video was by William Young, (Really listen to what he says)

2nd William I'm very Sorry, You are a Canadian:2tsup: not a Yank.

HazzaB again.

[plantagenon]

Jack

If you are just starting out on the pens and using CA then buy the Mitre Fix acelerator and use that. You won't have a problem with it unless you put the CA on a bit thick but light sanding will correct that. Glen 20 is something I have had no success with - just white crap I couldn't sand off and threw out 3 blanks. BLO with CA is for the more experienced. There are a number of places you can buy Mitre Fix accelerator from including the manufacturers, however you will have to buy the CA with it. Its the thick CA and I have found the thin CA from Timberbits is far better. Still a can of accelerator will go a long way so the cost is minimised. Good luck and a Happy New Year.

Greg

[thompy]

I'm with John (Gawdelpus) and Munruben. On the thin I've never had a problem not using acellerators, it goes off fast enough for my pottering speed. I'm soon to try out some acellerator, though i dont think it will improve my speed any.

Neal.

[Jack.Tar]

Thanks very much for all the advice and replies fellas. Those of you that do not use an accelerator how long do you leave it between coats?

Oh yeah what the hell is BLO?

[Dorno]

BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil and is used with the super glue by some people. and with regards to the CA most of the time I do use an activator when doing a CA finish. I use the stuff that is mentioned in many threads called Mitre fix because of several reasons but the main is that it is reasonably priced at around $20 for both medium CA and also Activator and you should be able to get it here
Mitre Fix - Sanding,Polishes & Glues - PenKits, pen kit suppliers (http://www.043turning.com.au/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=395)

Good luck and this should be of great help

Cheers Ian
(http://www.043turning.com.au/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=395)

[Pariss]

Hey Jack. This YouTube clip might be of interest to you. There's a massive amount on info video's of pen making & finishing on YouTube. . This one is about the use of CA + BLO. Cheers.

WoodTurning BLO and CA Pen Finish - YouTube

[cookie48]

Pariss.
How does he not stick to the blank? When ever I do mine if I stay rubbing to long I stick to it and have to start all over again. Is it the BLO?

[HazzaB]

Hey Dorno,

Thats the Video, well done mate:2tsup:, I don't do the first BLO coat any more, just the drop of BLO and the puddle of CA, straight up, usually about 5-6 cycles (depending on the timber) and then a quick rub with Hutts Wax and a polish with cheese cloth, then they are ready for engraving or assembly. The secret in the application is rubbing till it dulls and then shines up again, and secondly don't use too much BLO

Hey jackTar and cookie watch the Vid and Listen to what he says.

HazzaB

[Jack.Tar]

Thanks very much for that, now I just have to find boiled linseed oil.

[Dalboy]

I use the methord in the video but go to 8 coats then a very fine rub down to 12,000 grit and then rub with burnishing cream. Leaves a lovely glass like finish

[Pariss]

Pariss.
How does he not stick to the blank? When ever I do mine if I stay rubbing to long I stick to it and have to start all over again. Is it the BLO?

Hi Cookie. I dunno, I've never tried this method, but there's dozens of utube vids on pen finishing. I have just stuck to the straight CA + Mitrefix method. Maybe I'm a boring non-adventurous type, haha. Cheers :):2tsup:

[keltrader]

Great vid. I have seen the light and the shine. Get it light & shine. Not funny I know. Outside is 40 Celsius. Makes everything unfunny.

[plantagenon]

You will find the BLO at Bunnings in the paint section. Just make sure you pick up the Boiled Linseed Oil (darker colour) and not the other varities.

I might give it another go now that I saw the post on not applying the BLO by itself first. Then again I might stick with Pariss and just stay with CA.

Greg

[Treecycle]

I tried the BLO/CA combination after watching William's video, but didn't seem to get the same shine as the straight CA. Maybe I was doing it wrong, I don't know. So I went back to CA and always get the result I am after.:wink:

[Dalboy]

I think this is one of those finishes that there is no right or wrong way to apply. Everyone has their preferred way of applying it. If your way works for you why change.
I have tried both with and without BLO and find the with is my preferred way.
If you have not tried CA finish have a go at both methods and find the best for you

[Nai84]

Hey Jack tar I am with HazzaB on this one, I learnt to turn pens form harry over a year ago and I use the method harry does and never had a problem with CA and BLO method but it all takes time to learn the ways of the pen finish's I still use the CA and BLO method but sometimes I use plastic coating for my better pens and sometimes just wax is all it needs just hang there and keep practicing. Like I always say each to there own and you will find out what works best for you sooner or later good luck Ian

[Jack.Tar]

Well team, very unbecoming of a Navy man I know but I have officaily given up. I tried both the BLO method and the just wait for each coat to dry method a couple of times today with nil success.

Thanks for all your advice it IS appreciated but I think from now on I will stick to acrylics and just speed polish for any timber ones that I do.

[Dorno]

No Jack Don't Give up it will be well worth it when you do get it done. I have no idea how that guy in the video that parris put up can get away without the towel sticking to the pen he must be a far better man than me :D My suggestion to people that I show how to do the CA process is to turn down some small offcuts and sand them up as if they were pens after you have done that you can the finish them off using the CA process and with a little practice you will get it all together. I personally do use the blue paper towel but fold 1 sheet andthen cut it into about 2cm strips (should get about 10) and then use each strip only once and then once completed that will mean you have 10 coats of CA finish and all is ready to polish. Give it a try it will be worth it in the end. If I can help at all PM me

Cheers Ian

[Treecycle]

I agree with Dorno, don't give up, and just practice on a scrap bit of wood. That way you haven't lost anything if it doesn't work at first.
My method is a little different, but everyone has their own way that works for them.
I only use some cheap paper towel from the Supermarket sometimes, but the softer varieties tend to work better. I still cut it into strips and apply the CA to the blank spinning at around 700 RPM, and lightly hold the towel against the bottom of the blank. Between 3 & 4 drops per blank for each coat. I only hold the towel on long enough to spread the CA along the blank by quickly traversing along from end to end a few times. I use thin CA and this (http://www.cws.au.com/shop/item/hot-shot-qa-6-ncf-quick-accelerator) accelerator which I can get locally. I apply 20 coats which gives me a deep glossy shine.
Keep trying and it will come. Don't use the alternative accelerators until you get your method down pat first, otherwise you will only cause yourself frustration.
As I said at the start, everyone has their own tried and true method that works for them.

[_fly_]

I tried it last night, wasn't to bad. Still not the super shine I was hoping for but I did not have any sticking problems with the paper towel. I think that first layer of BLO helps with that, as does the little dab you use to put get the drop of CA to sit there (stops it soaking in). I'll keep trying.

[Les in Red Deer]

This is how I apply my CA finish.
No BLO or accelerator!
I get a consistent finish each and every time!
Works great for me.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f207/163194d1299205528-tutorial-how-les-applies-med-ca-medium-ca-only-pen-finishing-revision.pdf

Les

[sturina]

Hi Jack.tar I use just CA using Les's method, i don't use accelerator and it takes a little longer but I like the finish I get. It took me a while and a few pens but have got the hang of it (most times). I'm just up the road in Dapto so happy to have a go with it if your in the area, or in Nowra. Just pm me if you want to.

[Dorno]

Hi Jack
I agree with treecycle on the process and mine is very similar and seems to work ok. So stated that you have managed to get a reasonable shine ? are you using the correct finishing process because that will make a huge difference. You could do far far worse taking Les CA tutorial:wink: he has a reasonably good idea on what he is doing:D
just in case you haven't seen his work it is supurb and definately worth looking at:2tsup::2tsup: but in all jack read les's tutorial and just keep practicing on scrap pieces you will have it in no time.

Cheers Ian

[Pariss]

Hey Jack. This is David (timberbits ) method. Worked for me from day one. Always get a perfect finish.

How I apply 20 thin coats of CA as a finish « TimberBits Blog (http://www.timberbits.com/blog/?p=194)

[cookie48]

Just one question please. I bought some pale blo. Is that ok or not????

[Treecycle]

Providing it is "Boiled" linseed oil you should be right to go. I don't know the reasoning behind why you have to use the boiled version. Maybe someone else has that answer.

[thompy]

Boiled linseed oil
Boiled linseed oil is used as a paint (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint) binder or as a wood (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood) finish on its own. Heating the oil causes it to polymerize (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer) and oxidize, making it thicker and shortening its drying time. Today, most products labeled as "boiled linseed oil" are a combination of raw linseed oil, petroleum (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum)-based solvent, and metallic dryers (catalysts to accelerate drying). The use of metallic dryers makes boiled linseed oil inedible. Some products contain only heat-treated linseed oil, without exposure to oxygen (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen). Heat-treated linseed oil is thicker and dries very slowly. This grade of linseed oil is usually labeled as "polymerized" or "stand" oil, though some types may still be labeled as "boiled".

from the linseed oil wikki here Linseed oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil)

hope thats a help.

Neal.

[plantagenon]

I must give the BLO/CA another go on a cheap pen. I bought a glass eye dropper from the chemist to make sure I only just get a drop of BLO on the material. I must admit I couldn't contro the volume at the first attempt. This might help but time will tell. At the moment I have started polishing some pens with CA again now that the bottles of accelerator have arrived. :U

[Jack.Tar]

Well I didn't give up completely, had another go today and the pen ended up duller than it was when I started, this is pretty bloody frustrating. I think that is it for timber for me, I waste a lot of blanks and tubes through large bits breaking off when I'm turning anyway so I think I will just stick to acrylic from now on I get much better results with far less effort and frustration, this shouldn't be a chore.

[gawdelpus]

Well I didn't give up completely, had another go today and the pen ended up duller than it was when I started, this is pretty bloody frustrating. I think that is it for timber for me, I waste a lot of blanks and tubes through large bits breaking off when I'm turning anyway so I think I will just stick to acrylic from now on I get much better results with far less effort and frustration, this shouldn't be a chore.

Thats a bit sad as you are having success with acrylics ,which can be hard to turn ,but easy to finish . As opposed to most woods are easily turned ,but the finishing is sometimes more challenging, seems you might need some hands on experience with someone close enough to get you on the right track ,took me over a year to learn to use a skew for anything other than a scraper :) and even then someone had to show me . Same with CA wasn't till I got together with Neil (dai Sensei) that I started to get consistently good results ,It is definately another string to your bow ,especially for some more difficult woods like spalteds and burls ,can be used to highlight the beauty or hold things together :) . Bits breaking off wood when turning is not that uncommon, how you get over that can be a real challenge at times,especially if you can't find the bits to glue back together hehe,
Have a break if you need to and try again some time later on when you feel the time is right to try again.no good beating yourself up for little reward :) cheers ~ John

[plantagenon]

Jack

Try using thin CA with Mitre Fix accelerator until you get used to the finish. It's easy to stuff up a couple of blanks with that too if the paper towel begins to stick of the CA forms ridges, but you can sand off the mistakes using a 600 grit and then continue to apply the CA for a perfect finish with MM and wax. When you are happy with those pens, try the BLO and other methods.

But my advice for what it is worth is to get one method working first so you are happy with it and then experiment with other methods using cheap pen kits.

I moved between too many methods when I started out and ended up buggering up most methods and a lot of pen kits. Now I use CA and mitrefix or alternatively a Nitro dip which is also good.

Find an experienced pen turner from here who is living in your area and see if you can get some tips in person from them. It has worked wonders for me. I was doing so many things wrong that I thought were right for me but they accounted for the loss of blanks I didn't need to lose.

Mate I have so much to learn too and I am learning all the time so don't give up because of a couple of stuff ups.:no:

Greg

[_fly_]

Well I didn't give up completely, had another go today and the pen ended up duller than it was when I started, this is pretty bloody frustrating. I think that is it for timber for me, I waste a lot of blanks and tubes through large bits breaking off when I'm turning anyway so I think I will just stick to acrylic from now on I get much better results with far less effort and frustration, this shouldn't be a chore.

I did a pen today and got the same result you were getting, The white stuff. Didn't use the BLO on the paper towel first this time. And your right I got dull, dull dull on the first 3 laters. I wound up putting the CA (thin) on and stopping the lathe and leaving my light on it until it went off properly. Then I started the lather for the next layer. This seemed to reduce the white coating a fair bit. The only thing that actually fixed it was using the micromesh to get to a smooth gloss finish. But I don't think it was any better than a 600 grit sand and a wax.

[qballizhere]

I did a pen today and got the same result you were getting, The white stuff. Didn't use the BLO on the paper towel first this time. And your right I got dull, dull dull on the first 3 laters. I wound up putting the CA (thin) on and stopping the lathe and leaving my light on it until it went off properly. Then I started the lather for the next layer. This seemed to reduce the white coating a fair bit. The only thing that actually fixed it was using the micromesh to get to a smooth gloss finish. But I don't think it was any better than a 600 grit sand and a wax.

One way you can try a CA finnish is drip thin ca on a qtip 5 or 6 drops and make a pass back and forth.
Use 5 qtips 10 coats
800 wet/dry sand wet
MM all grits wet
Polish :2tsup:

[Treecycle]

What are qtips please?

[Perfect Pens]

Cotton Buds:2tsup:
Cheers
Tony

[Pariss]

Jeez Jack, watch this clip, and copy every sequence. I nailed it from day one, and I'm a 'Meat Head', ha ha. How I apply 20 thin coats of CA as a finish « TimberBits Blog (http://www.timberbits.com/blog/?p=194)
The ONLY thing I do differently NOW from David, is that I do not use paper towel as an applicator, I use Toilet paper as I find it gives a smoother / finer coverage.

[cookie48]

Pariss.
Is that scented toot paper. :)

[plantagenon]

Is it the double layer or do you risk a break through with the single layer:C

[_fly_]

One way you can try a CA finnish is drip thin ca on a qtip 5 or 6 drops and make a pass back and forth.
Use 5 qtips 10 coats
800 wet/dry sand wet
MM all grits wet
Polish :2tsup:

Do most use thin or medium Ca. The 2 buck junk or the expensive carbatec stuff.
Do you get what you pay for??

qballizhere (http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/74451-qballizhere/) Do I let the ca dry between applications or use accelerator?
Pariss (http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/65937-pariss/): this is the method I tried? but I did not use accelerator( don't know why as I have some) I also used thin CA (also silly seeing I have medium). I think I didn't use accel as I was using thin.

OK I'll try again again with medium and accel.

OK, Another question, I saw somewhere, think it was youtube that accelerator was nothing more than water and Bi-Carb (think it was 1 teaspoon into a pint of water). Has anyone else seen this or tried it.

[plantagenon]

There are plenty of posts on here about trying all the different methods to replace Mitre Fix. I have not been able to use any of them successfully so far. That is probably because I am still a novice. But personally, I don't want to stuff around and waste time and blanks with new fangled ideas that aren't an instant success. So, like Louie the Fly, "If you're on a good think stick to it". No, I am not a salesman for Mitre Fix but I see so much time and money wasted on the forum by people trying to save a few cents in an alternative to a proven product. Buy it from the manufacturers direct for around $15 a can! Check the internet and you will find them.

As an aside I noticed the post about using cotton wool rather than paper towel or plastic. Best of luck :C Thin CA has a tendency to go off as you are rubbing it across the blank to avoid the ripple pool effect. Cotton wool would end up making the blank look like Fairy Floss if the CA got tacky :U It's bad enough when it happens to paper towel when you are not watching and worse still when the gloves stick to it. Geez - do they tear apart.:o (I use Ansell disposal gloves when using CA to avoid poisoning over a prolonged period but mainly to stop my fingers sticking together).

Best of luck with the trials

[qballizhere]

One way you can try a CA finnish is drip thin ca on a qtip 5 or 6 drops and make a pass back and forth.
Use 5 qtips 10 coats
800 wet/dry sand wet
MM all grits wet
Polish :2tsup:

Do most use thin or medium Ca. The 2 buck junk or the expensive carbatec stuff.
Do you get what you pay for??

qballizhere (http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/74451-qballizhere/) Do I let the ca dry between applications or use accelerator?
Pariss (http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/65937-pariss/): this is the method I tried? but I did not use accelerator( don't know why as I have some) I also used thin CA (also silly seeing I have medium). I think I didn't use accel as I was using thin.

OK I'll try again again with medium and accel.

OK, Another question, I saw somewhere, think it was youtube that accelerator was nothing more than water and Bi-Carb (think it was 1 teaspoon into a pint of water). Has anyone else seen this or tried it.


I am a reseller for Mercury Adhesives. I will use thin ca most of the time, sometimes med

I let the first 3 or 4 coats dry naturally then I will use aerosol accel some pump accel is not fine enough.

One other thing I do is after all coats are applied and dry I will let it sit for 14 hours CA fully cures in 24 hours.

Then wet sand as mentioned.

[cookie48]

I am going batty.
I made about 80 plain pine work blanks for practice. Now I have tried the CA finish and get mixed results. That being a few look good after 5 coats applied with hand towel. My main problem is that the CA leaves swirl patterns, or high swirls on the blank. Have used quick drying, medium and long drying CA. All do the same thing. My little Woodfast is set to its lowest speed.
What is going on???????
Starting to feel like Jack-tar and not doing CA finish, but I do like the finish to much to stop trying.
Can someone tell me where I am going wrong please.
Cookie

[thompy]

Cookie i'm not sure if this will help or not but give it a try, just some observations based on what i've done and do.
I dont get swirls usually, until, and if i press in too hard on the later higher level coats, as Qball mentioned its about 14 hrs for a full cure, with that said i sand right off after i finish my coats,
Sometimes if i'm not too carefull or fast enough putting the last couple of coats on the blank. The tendency of the spinning blank wants to grab at the paper as it begins to cure and wants to pull it in harder to itself, this i think is what creates the swirl as it begins to distort the lower undercoats. My advice would be a lighter softer faster touch on the application and perhaps up the speed a little, i cant remember what lowest speed is for the woodfast, but i apply my CA at about 800rpm where i sand as well.

Neal.

[HazzaB]

I am going batty.
I made about 80 plain pine work blanks for practice. Now I have tried the CA finish and get mixed results. That being a few look good after 5 coats applied with hand towel. My main problem is that the CA leaves swirl patterns, or high swirls on the blank. Have used quick drying, medium and long drying CA. All do the same thing. My little Woodfast is set to its lowest speed.
What is going on???????
Starting to feel like Jack-tar and not doing CA finish, but I do like the finish to much to stop trying.
Can someone tell me where I am going wrong please.
Cookie


Hey Cookie,

When I do mine my little woodfast is going Flat Out Top Speed, and I have never used Accelerator

HazzaB

[Pariss]

Pariss.
Is that scented toot paper. :)

The best one is Sorbent extra thick Hypo-Allergenic. It's got a really fine pattern on it, looks a bit like fly-screen indentation. And Cookie, I NEVER use second hand toilet paper unless filling gaps in Brown Malley Burl. :oo::oo::oo::rolleyes: Anyway. I pull 2 sheets of date roll off, and fold in half, then I fold that in half again, then once again, so I end up with a bit about 1" wide, I then get my scissors and cut the strip into 4 pads about 1" X 1" square. My Woodfast is now on the 2nd slowest speed, 750rpm I think. I hold the pad gently touching under the blank, and move it right to left 3 times in a 3 second time frame, whilst dripping 5 drops of thin CA onto the top of the blank, then I discard the pad and apply a VERY small mist of Mitrefix, grab another pad and repeat. I can do 20 coats of THIN CA in about 10 minutes, then straight onto the wet sanding with Micro Mesh with the lathe set back on top speed. I also found that paper towel gave me ridges and lines in the finish + I reckon the CA went off quicker than with dunny roll. Cheers.

[_fly_]

I think its a black art. You need to sacrifice an old woman in the forest at midnight to get the skill. Maybe thats cooking ability, Maybe sacrifice a woodworker that has the skill so I can get it.

I guess its just keep trying till you get the right touch and from then on its second nature.

Maybe we need someone in Melb, SA and QLD to do a demo so the noobs can see what we are doing wrong. We can all bring one finished pen and just apply the finish under the guidance of a master. No-one at my mens shed does the CA finish, they are all happy with EEE as the end result. So no help there.

I've watched the youtubes, With BLO on paper first, without blo and the 20 coat one. I've used micromesh after. Maybe I keep the paper there to long? I've tried the 3 drops. I've tried the keep feeding CA while it turns. I have not tried to slower lathe yet. Maybe I put the next layer on to quick? I also got the ridges with the paper towel, I'll try the bog roll as well.

I'll try the cotton bud method and just wipe without holding it there to long. Not sure how long to wait for next layer yet. Maybe I'l make the cheval mirror I've been meaning to make for the last 2 weeks first before I try again.

[gawdelpus]

After about 3 coats of medium or thick,it pays at that point to get the finish smooth again,you can use a fine wet and dry , or in most cases I use "0000" steel wool ,once all the high spots are gone (eg no shiny bits left on the surface ,you can apply more coats, if you continue adding to an uneven surface it just gets worse and worse ,speed is the essence just a couple of wipes either way ,lathe speed not so fast as to fling CA all over the place :( so many variations in this ,you can get totally confused with all the options ,best to stick to one method till its right consistently ,it does take practice, for some it works first time :U cheers ~ John

[_fly_]

I've started thinking of the proper method for the sacrifice.
Time? Location? weather?
Do I use a skew or a stanley knife?
Do I face north or south?
Would the mother in law be enough (please let it be enough)?

Maybe we need another thread for this part!!

[cookie48]

Thanks for the tips Gents. Will keep trying till I get it. ( I hope)

[Jack.Tar]

Yay me I did it :U

This is what I did (and probably will forevermore)
First I put a coat of shellawax glow on
Then I put on a coat of loctite super glue the type that comes in a small plastic bottle with black ribs on the side that you squeeze to get the glue out by holding folded paper towel under it and and running it along the blank as I drip glue onto it
Then I let it spin for about ten seconds and then just lightly touched the edge of the paper towel I am using to apply the glue and run it along the blank, you can see the pen going dull when you do this (glue is drying)
I did about 15 coats of this then I let it dry and sanded it with 1200 wet stopped the lathe occasionaly to see if there was any white spots if yes keep going.
Once all the white spots were gone micro mesh and all done.

Almost forgot, I had the lathe at max chickens for the whole process.

[plantagenon]

So many versions on here of what to do so I will add my 2 bobs worth again. I just use kitchen paper towel. Cut it up as shown by David in his video (mentioned much earlier). The lathe is set to the lowest speed as a high speed doesn't seem to change matters other than sticking the paper towel to the blank. On the first coat - 4 drops of thin CA over the blank as you move the paper towel aoong the blank 5 times in each direction with light/medium pressure. Throw that piece of towel away. Next coat: Just 2 drops of thin CA over the top of the blank and again 5 quick passes over the blank with the paper towel. Repeat 20 times and Bob's your uncle. Too light a pressure on the towel over the blank will allow the ripples, Medium pressure (or light for a truckie or weight lifter) will work wonders. If a ripple appears simple run 600 grit sandpaper over it to cut it back (but only after the CA is dry :roll:) Move the paper towel along the blank at a medium speed (not as quick as polishing a surface but just gently, firmly and about a second each way. DON'T try to reuse paper towel as it will cause the ripples in a big way. And once again - use an accelerator like Mitre Fix and you will be okay. Just might have to do a video on this if I ever get my shed set up after the move. :~