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rusel
11th January 2012, 12:24 PM
Does any one have any good local suppler for these blades?
I need to get some 64.5" (5' 4.5")x 1/2" x14 and 18 TPI
Have found a U.S. site has blades for $31us plus $32us postage for 4 blades
How does this price look?
Russell

Big Shed
11th January 2012, 12:27 PM
Any local saw sharpening business will be able to supply these, if not in stock in your size they normally make them up while you wait.

The price above is about the same as I pay here in Bendigo, minus the postage.

Abratool
11th January 2012, 12:31 PM
I get my Bimetal Bandsaw blades for woodworking from ....
Henry Bros Saws P/L
541 Old Hawkesbury rd
Vineyard NSW ph 9627 5486
They will make up custom orders to size.
I am sure they would have what you are looking for.
For woodworking I use a 12mm by 3600 Bi metal 3 TPI & been very good. :2tsup:
I think they have the finer tooth blades as well.
regards
Bruce:)

Hunch
11th January 2012, 05:40 PM
I think they have the finer tooth blades as well.

Most definitely....and some huge stuff that has the makings of a James Bond nightmare!

Abratool
11th January 2012, 05:59 PM
Most definitely....and some huge stuff that has the makings of a James Bond nightmare!
Hunch
Yes I have noticed some of those at their workshop at Vineyards.
regards
Bruce:)

rusel
17th January 2012, 09:00 AM
Just got some pricing from the locals and Henry Bros Saws P/L have come up best. Just finalising a order with them now

Thanks for the help

Russell

Cliff Rogers
17th January 2012, 12:49 PM
BandsawSupplies.com.au - Bandsaw Blades, Bandsaw Machines, Bandsaw Parts, DoAll Australia (http://www.bandsawsupplies.com.au/catalog/)

BandsawSupplies.com.au - Bandsaw Blades, Bandsaw Machines, Bandsaw Parts, DoAll Australia (http://www.bandsawsupplies.com.au/catalog/index.php?cPath=1&osCsid=55c7438426129f080e2366c68f061ae0)

Wimmera Jack
17th January 2012, 03:25 PM
Been buying my blades from this mob for years. They only do bandsaw blades.
McDiven Saws P/L specializes in all types of bandsaws (http://www.mcdivensaws.com.au/)
cheers,
John.

Pat
17th January 2012, 05:34 PM
Good one Cliffie, you've crashed their web page :q

Cliff Rogers
17th January 2012, 10:59 PM
Works for me. :?

Hunch
18th January 2012, 08:00 AM
Just got some pricing from the locals and Henry Bros Saws P/L have come up best. Just finalising a order with them now

They also re-do endmills if you've got some old worn out ones....not worth the expense on little ones though.

rusel
24th January 2012, 05:20 PM
Another question (there is always another question:roll:)
How much benefit is there running coolant whilst cutting. Is it worth building a tray and new stand for saw?

I do also cut some timber bit and peace on this saw. This and coolant from what I have heard they are not a good mix?

Russell

Stustoys
24th January 2012, 11:50 PM
Hi Russell,
I think coolant is a real blade saver but as I only ran without it for a very short time I cant say for sure.
I cut the odd piece of timber and havent seen any issues(you would of course want to be able to turn the coolent off).

Stuart

Dave J
24th January 2012, 11:58 PM
Hi Russell,
I have used no coolant and coolant, and running coolant will extend the life of you blades at least twice, but it seems to cut slightly slower for some reason.
Here is a link to my simple coolant set up. If you built something like this you could easily make a cover for the tray when doing wood work on it.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/bandsaw-coolant-105170/


Dave

rusel
25th January 2012, 04:45 PM
Stustoys, Dave J
Thanks for the info, I will put the cooling on, I will just add this to the listttttt
Dave J; I have the same saw as yours. I had a much more complicated system in mind but yours has the KISS principle, which I like.
I was going to build a new stand a large tray but now I will look at adding some larger wheels which I have laying around. This will lift the saw up a bit for when I am bandsawing saving the back some what. Might add a off switch when saw is upright position. Save accidentally cooling some wood when bandsawing
So your on/off switch does not get wet?

Dave J
25th January 2012, 05:02 PM
Hi Russell,
It was sort of a trial thing, but worked so good I left it on. The coolant doesn't go anywhere near the normal off on switch.
I have another switch to turn the coolant on or off when the saw is running. If the switch is on it will start the coolant with the motor and turn off when the motor does. It is located on the motor in the little electrical box, just a simple 240v rocker switch I had here.

Like I said in the other thread it's just a bit of rain water down pipe, and I tucked one leg up under the saw so it was held by the stand bolts, so no drilling any holes.
I found it does need the little thin tray on the rear as it drips off the blade and that catches it well and I get no coolant on the floor.
I tied the legs together with 2 pieces of angle and then used the tray as an extension off the down pipe. I also found this was needed because of the little splash and it some times runs along the job getting cut.
The way the tray is made allowed it to slot onto the edge of the down pipe and the other end I held up with a piece of wore onto the extended stop bar.

As I said above this was a trial and I do need to get around to making things permanent. I also need to raise my saw, but thats another job on the to do list, LOL

It is a bit cleaner at the moment, so if you need any more photos let me know.

Dave

Stustoys
25th January 2012, 05:25 PM
Hi Russell,
My pump is on while the motor is on, it just has a tap. I haven't cut much wood at all vertically.

Stuart

rusel
26th January 2012, 09:29 AM
Hi
I have just finished putting new guttering on the shed, so how fitting is it to have the left over piece of gutting fitted onto the saw.:cool:
My motor does not have a box on it so I will have to look at something a little different to yours for the switch.
I would use my saw as much in the vertical as horizontal so the switching off the coolant in the vertical might work well.

Russell

Dave J
26th January 2012, 01:22 PM
Hi Russell,
Sounds like you gathering the materials quick.
On mine I used 100 x 75 mm down pipe (from memory) with the side cut out of it. The cut off side then made the end caps and other little drain at the end. But guttering should work as well.

I never did a step by step, so if you could post a few photos it may help others doing it in the future.

Dave

rusel
31st January 2012, 02:06 PM
Dave took your advice some what and reactivated your thread by putting a reply with my effort to now as it is about coolant for a saw.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/bandsaw-coolant-105170/#post1438516

Russell