Parkanson power hacksaw [Archive]

Dave J

24th January 2012, 07:06 PM

Dave'H

24th January 2012, 07:21 PM

Well that does looks good Dave :U :U :U
Bit of a clean it will look brand new.

Dave'H

RayG

24th January 2012, 07:22 PM

Hi Dave,

Looks pretty good, I think it's a later model than the one I nearly bought at that auction.

Should clean up well, and it's a good solid brand. :2tsup:

Regards
Ray

Michael G

24th January 2012, 07:22 PM

Nice. Those things are nearly as mesmerising as shapers.

Michael

Dave J

24th January 2012, 07:33 PM

Thanks guys,
Bollie said he used to run it when it was new, but the guy that took over said something was wrong with the hydraulics. He has never run it since getting it to see what was wrong.so I will go through it and give it a good clean and new oil etc, then it should last me a life time.
The hydraulic down feed still works so he didn't think much was wrong with it if anything. The coolant pump and tray has been taken off it, but I have another belt driven coolant pump here and can make up a tray like original easy enough.

My little Chinese bandsaw has been getting a hard time cutting through 150mm round etc, so this should take some of the load off it.

Michael,
Maybe I could sit between this and the shaper and go to sleep twice as quick, LOL

Dave

RayG

24th January 2012, 07:46 PM

Hi Dave,

Here's a picture of that one I referred to, it looks earlier than yours, but you might get some ideas from it..

http://www.backsaw.net/pics/Varnamo/DSCN0999-1.JPG

It looked pretty well beat up, and I didn't bid, it went to a guy who restores traction steam engines. Sold for $35...

Regards
Ray

steran50

24th January 2012, 07:55 PM

HI:),
Looks Good Dave a bit of the old Elbow Grease and it will look a lot better. It is actually similar to Mine in appearance (see pics). I don't know what Model mine is either its Capacity is 6" x 6" and it takes a 14" Blade. Yeah the Cheap Blades I did a search on the Forum and came across where mathew g found a Supplier http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/power-hacksaw-blades-122349/ the Link seems to be playing up I am not sure if this is it or not Contact Apex Machinery (http://www.apexmc.com.au/contact-us/contact-us.htm) . Perhaps PM mathew g for clarification.
I came across Seller in the UK Today selling Blades Trizeik items - Get great deals on items on eBay Stores! (http://stores.ebay.com.au/Trizeik/Power-Hacksaw-Blades-/_i.html?_fsub=4260310015&_sid=1042776825&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322) . Good Luck with Your New Saw.

Dave J

24th January 2012, 07:57 PM

Thanks Ray,:2tsup:
It looks like they squared off the over arm, but other than that not much change over the years.

Dave

Dave J

24th January 2012, 08:01 PM

Hi Stewart
Other than the side panel it looks the same as yours. I did get the front sheet metal panel and a few other bits and they are in the tool box on the trailer.
Thanks for posting the info.:2tsup: I will track it down.

Dave

Bryan

24th January 2012, 09:08 PM

Nice one Dave. Any day with a new machine in it is a good day! :)

xXvapourXx

24th January 2012, 10:07 PM

Good job on the buy Dave :2tsup:
Are you planning of a refurb on the Parkanson any time soon?

Cooper

Woodlee

24th January 2012, 10:19 PM

It's a much later model than mine , I notice it has only one piston rod on the hydraulic pump ,mine has two , and the up and down feed control lever is is on the side of mine .I reckon mine is late 40's early 50's vintage .The bearings that I replaced in mine were Echuca brand , made in Australia ,I was told that the Echuca bearing factory closed after the war.
Daves is a fabricated base and beam where as mine is all cast iron.
The one Ray posted a picture of has the cast iron beam and a fabricated base ,a transitional piece I reckon.With the different models between us its easy to see the evolution of them .
I reckon this model would be close to the last ones they made ,before changing over to the horizontal bandsaw machines.
I doubt there would be much wrong in the hydraulics , maybe an "o"ring or seal has split or cracked .
Nice pick up anyway ,I reckon you'll be wrapped with it cutting large stock
Kev.

Dave J

24th January 2012, 10:25 PM

Hi Bryan, your right there, when Bollie contacted me I couldn't knock back another toy (I mean tool). :D and especially being Australian made. Now I just need to get it into the shed, lol
When I first went to buy my bandsaw it was advertised as power hacksaw, but when I got there it was a Chinese bandsaw (deceased estate) I took a gamble on it for $100 but it has worked great.
I have always wanted a power hacksaw but never looked to hard as the bandsaw did the job, but in the last couple of years the pore little bandsaw has been coping a flogging cutting thick stuff, so this came around at the right time.

Hi Cooper,
Not sure when I will fully strip it down, but I will give it a light clean and get it going soon to see if there is anything I need to chases up for it before hand.

Did your mate end up buying that bandsaw I contacted you about?

Dave

Dave J

24th January 2012, 10:34 PM

Hi Kev,
Thanks for the comments and info.:2tsup:
I just went down and double checked and it has a solid cast beam, but it's just a square shape unlike the one in the picture Ray posted.

Dave

Stustoys

25th January 2012, 12:38 AM

Hi Dave,
Nice pick up, I used to use one of those(though like the one in Rays picture).
We put the blade in the other way around though?

Stuart

Dave J

25th January 2012, 12:45 AM

You must have good eyes, I haven't looked at the blade yet but I would think it should cut on the back stroke so the material is pushed against the fixed jaw.

Dave

steran50

25th January 2012, 07:44 AM

HI Dave,
No:no:, They Cut on the Forward Stroke - as the Blades moves towards the front of the Saw it Cuts. Here is a Link to a Guy who Timed His in both directions Power hacksaw Update - RC Groups (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1106927) . The Sticker on the Right Hand side of the Beam should have the Cutting Direction Marked on it. The Sticker on the Left Hand Side of the Beam also shows the Cutting Direction on Your Saw - I don't remember ever seeing that sticker of a Blade on any Parkanson before (homemade maybe?).

Stustoys

25th January 2012, 09:32 AM

Hi Stewart,

The Sticker on the Left Hand Side of the Beam also shows the Cutting Direction on Your Saw
Why dont you just give away the secret of my super eye sight then ;) (that and I think I can see the arrow on the blade)

I'm not sure the test in your link is valid, you can adjust the downfeed after all, but I think I can guess whats going on. It might be something to do with the side load from the conrod acting to increase or decrease the cut. The theory goes that big end* will be on the top half of the crank shaft on the cutting stroke.

Will be interesting to watch. I wonder why they did it this way?

Stuart

*Big end in the car motor sense. They may well be the same size.

bollie7

25th January 2012, 10:14 AM

The Sticker on the Left Hand Side of the Beam also shows the Cutting Direction on Your Saw - I don't remember ever seeing that sticker of a Blade on any Parkanson before (homemade maybe?).
Its been on that machine from new but where/who it came from is anyones guess.
I bought the saw as scrap but as I'm in the process of moving I've come to the realisation that I need to cull a bit. Hence offering it to Dave as he lives fairly close.
I might add that Dave very enthusiastically tried to persuade me to sell him my mill as well. LOL. Sorry Dave. its a keeper. Hopefully it will be running again sometime this year after a 2 & 1/2 year suspension of duty.
bollie7

Crunchie

25th January 2012, 10:55 AM

Hi Stewart,

you can adjust the downfeed after all, but I think I can guess whats going on. It might be something to do with the side load from the conrod acting to increase or decrease the cut. The theory goes that big end* will be on the top half of the crank shaft on the cutting stroke.

The adjustment is on the fluid escaping the piston which holds up the blade assembly. This model, and the one shown by Ray, are both still common in Tech Studies workshops in SA. I'd bet there are quite a few Owner's manuals lying around in Techies' offices. Many of the schools are in the process of getting rid of these saws so you may be able to pick up the manual.

xXvapourXx

25th January 2012, 01:00 PM

Hi Cooper,
Not sure when I will fully strip it down, but I will give it a light clean and get it going soon to see if there is anything I need to chases up for it before hand.

Did your mate end up buying that bandsaw I contacted you about?

He hasn't bought it yet but hes thinking about it.
Think he is buying a ride on mower for a property that he has up at wallaroo, that he needs to clean up. so the band saw might have to wait.

Cooper

Dave J

25th January 2012, 03:57 PM

Thanks guys, I am now no better off as one says this way and the other says that way.:?:doh: From what I have seen over the years the work always gets pulled into the fixed jaw, which makes sense to me.

The stickers look to be factory, maybe they added them in the latter models as Bollie said it was late 80s early 90s model. Then again the TAFE could have added them for students.

Bollie, thanks again for contacting me, much appreciated.:2tsup:

Dave

Dave J

25th January 2012, 03:59 PM

The adjustment is on the fluid escaping the piston which holds up the blade assembly. This model, and the one shown by Ray, are both still common in Tech Studies workshops in SA. I'd bet there are quite a few Owner's manuals lying around in Techies' offices. Many of the schools are in the process of getting rid of these saws so you may be able to pick up the manual.

Thanks for that, my son and a lot of his friends go to TAFE so I will get them to ask about it.

Cooper
You mean to tell me it's still there at that price?

Dave

Michael G

25th January 2012, 05:43 PM

Dave, it may help to see the saw in action. The more sophisticated lifted on the return stroke to avoid tooth wear. If you have one of those types there might be an observable change that will give you a hint.

Michael

Dave J

25th January 2012, 05:51 PM

Hi Michael, your right there. It will be a few weeks until I get it running as it's 3ph at the moment and I will change it over to single. I have a magnetic start stop switch here, but will also hit ebay for emergency stop switch etc.

Dave

Steamwhisperer

25th January 2012, 06:11 PM

Hi Dave,
with regards to the direction of cut with power hacksaws it is all about the pull of the crank and what is known as angularity. The connecting rod should be pulling the blade down into the work as the crank rotates. this stops the potential of skipping the blade across the work and breaking some teeth off. Pushing forward with the conrod trying to lift the headframe off the work can cause this. I am sure you will get the cut rate in both directions of the blade but you will break a lot less teeth. Just make sure the direction of rotation of the crank is anticlockwise looking at the crank and con-rod.
This is also true with steam engines where there are less knocks 'running over' than 'running under'.
Hope this helps.

Phil

Dave J

25th January 2012, 06:23 PM

Thanks Phil. :2tsup:
I don't really know which direction the original motor run, but will take you advice.

Dave

steran50

25th January 2012, 06:50 PM

Hi Stewart,

Why dont you just give away the secret of my super eye sight then ;) (that and I think I can see the arrow on the blade)

Hi Stuart,
Sorry, I thought everyone new about Your Super Vision LOL.

Dave J

25th January 2012, 07:01 PM

LOL,
You have busted him

Dave

EDIT
That maybe a new name for him, Super Vision Stuart, or SVS for short, LOL

Woodlee

25th January 2012, 07:59 PM

You must have good eyes, I haven't looked at the blade yet but I would think it should cut on the back stroke so the material is pushed against the fixed jaw.

Dave

That"s what I thought with mine also , but I timed it in both directions and it cuts quicker on the forward stroke .
I sought advice from a number of places and was told to time it , the quicker cut is the correct direction .
I cut a piece of flat bar 100mm x 25mm ,cutting on the back stroke it took 12mins ,cutting on the forward stroke it took just over 6mins.

Dave J

25th January 2012, 08:22 PM

That"s what I thought with mine also , but I timed it in both directions and it cuts quicker on the forward stroke .
I sought advice from a number of places and was told to time it , the quicker cut is the correct direction .
I cut a piece of flat bar 100mm x 25mm ,cutting on the back stroke it took 12mins ,cutting on the forward stroke it took just over 6mins.

Hi Kev,
I have not looked at mine to see if the motor can be run backward, but did you try this and see where the connecting rod was as Phil described above?

I am asking this question blind as it's poring rain here and has been all day, so the saw is still on the trailer under a tarp.

Dave

Woodlee

25th January 2012, 09:58 PM

Dave ,
when mine was cutting on the back stroke the connecting rod was at the top of the crank wheel and rotating in an a clock wise direction looking from the right side of the machine ,it was tending to lift the bow up as it pulled back .
When I had the motor reversed on the saw was cutting on the forward stroke the crank arm was at the bottom of the crank wheel and the crank arm was pushing the bow in a direct line ,as it should .
If you search the forum for my posts on the hacksaw and look at the video on U tube you can see how it was working before I changed the direction of rotation.
The single phase motor I got for my saw came from Royce Cross in Adelaide , I got a 3hp because the original 3ph was 3 hp .
Not having any electrical knowledge at all Im not sure if all single phase motors can be reversed .
IIRC I paid $230 for the motor plus 50 delivery , It was one of his recon motors ,I haven't had any issues at all with it.
this is the motor ,but as I said mine was a reconditioned one .
Royce Cross Australia - (http://www.roycecross.com.au/product_list/pages/product.php?Operation=SetSessionVariable&Variable)[ProductCodeID]=SB4CREMX

Kev

RayG

25th January 2012, 10:52 PM

Hi Kev,

I think this is yours, before the motor was reversed.

Restored Parkanson Power Hacksaw - YouTube

I can understand what Phil was talking about being anti-clockwise rather than clockwise.

Regards
Ray

Steamwhisperer

25th January 2012, 11:24 PM

Steamwhisperer

25th January 2012, 11:27 PM

I can understand what Phil was talking about being anti-clockwise rather than clockwise.

Hi ray
I don't explain things too well. What I meant was if you were standing on the side the blade is on and were looking at the crank it should turn anti clockwise
Hope this helps

Phil

RayG

25th January 2012, 11:32 PM

Hi ray
I don't explain things too well. What I meant was if you were standing on the side the blade is on and were looking at the crank it should turn anti clockwise
Hope this helps

Phil

Yes that's it..... I think.... :rolleyes: ... so, the motor should run anti-clockwise and the crank should be at the top on the forward stroke, with the blade around so it's cutting on the forward stroke..

In the video, it's running backwards and the blade is reversed as well.. Kev's since reversed the motor and swapped the blade around..

Regards
Ray

Stustoys

25th January 2012, 11:33 PM

Hi Kev,
Is the "power up" height adjustable?

Hi Phil
What you explained is what I was trying to get at in my last post.
But if you changed the timing on the lift cam 180deg wouldn't that let you cut towards the vice with the conrod in the correct position?
I can only think of two not so good reasons why they wanted to push. 1. the swarf 2. the work piece falls off towards the front of the machine and not back against the wall.

Stuart

Steamwhisperer

25th January 2012, 11:45 PM

Yes that's it..... I think.... :rolleyes: ... so, the motor should run anti-clockwise and the crank should be at the top on the forward stroke, with the blade around so it's cutting on the forward stroke..

Regards
Ray

Yes Ray but with the blade around so it is cutting on the back stroke

Steamwhisperer

25th January 2012, 11:48 PM

Hi Phil
What you explained is what I was trying to get at in my last post.
But if you changed the timing on the lift cam 180deg wouldn't that let you cut towards the vice with the conrod in the correct position?
I can only think of two not so good reasons why they wanted to push. 1. the swarf 2. the work piece falls off towards the front of the machine and not back against the wall.

Stuart
Hi Stuart
You won't be changing the lift cam just the direction of the crank. The lift cam timing will be in the same position.
Cranks in this situation like to be pulled under load rather than pushed. It's about compression and tension on conrods.

Phil

Stustoys

26th January 2012, 12:05 AM

You won't be changing the lift cam just the direction of the crank. The lift cam timing will be in the same position.
Cranks in this situation like to be pulled under load rather than pushed. It's about compression and tension on conrods.
Hi Phil,
If you just reverse the hacksaw in the video Ray posted won't it will be cutting on the push stroke? So you have to change the timing to make it cut on the back stroke.

Yes I like the conrod in tension as well, but they must have had their reasons.

Stuart

Steamwhisperer

26th January 2012, 12:17 AM

Hi Phil,
If you just reverse the hacksaw in the video Ray posted won't it will be cutting on the push stroke? So you have to change the timing to make it cut on the back stroke.

Yes I like the conrod in tension as well, but they must have had their reasons.

Stuart

No
The lift cam comes into play at the end of the stroke. Whether the conrod moves upward or downward the blade will move forward. If the lift cam works on the forward stroke then it has to cut on the back stroke. Anti clockwise will keep the conrod in tension rather than compression when under load
lol like I said Stuart I couldn't explain things to save myself.

Phil

Woodlee

26th January 2012, 12:25 AM

Hi Kev
Are you saying that when you reversed the motor direction to anti clockwise it cut quicker than when you turned the blade around so the teeth were pointing at the motor but with the crank still running anticlockwise. Also isnt the headframe lifted by a dash pot type setup on the forward stroke.

Phil

Phil ,
when I reversed the motor the crank was at the bottom of the crank wheel ,with the wheel rotating in a anti clock wise direction , this put the crank arm in a direct straight line with the blade .I had a image of a drawing I did explaining the difference but I must have deleted it .
I'm sure it's in one of the previous power hacksaw posts . But I cant find it.
The lift timing doesn't change with the reversed rotation direction.At least it didn't on my machine. I made sure and kept the sparky there until I was totally satisfied.
Just cost me a few more beers.
Kev.

Edit : I"m getting confused here trying to answer all the posts at once LOL.
And I got that wrong above .
The crank is still at the top of the crank wheel when cutting on the forward stroke ,but due to the rotation is pushing downwards toward the bow. (compression)
Whereas in the other direction the crank is pulling the bow upwards like in the video. (tension)
Timing of the lift remained the same , I didn't adjust that at all .

The lift height at the end of cutting when the beam is going up to the stop position is not adjustable with out some modification.Another notch could be cut in the locking bar and the auto stop lever adjusted so the machine is switched of at a lower height ,but the angle of the lock bar would have to be changed I think.

Worse thing is I haven't come up with a length stop and its a fiddle trying to cut stock to a exact length ,its hard to get it lined up with the beam way up in the clouds , and trying to do it with the beam down is a muscle building exercise.Trying to hold the beam up, adjust the stock to the blade and do the vice up is a struggle .Im thinking of a small indicator /length gage on the fixed jaw that shows the distance from the vice jaw to the blade so Ican line up a scribed line on the stock with the blade with out having the beam down.
Kev.

Stustoys

26th January 2012, 12:42 AM

No
The lift cam comes into play at the end of the stroke. Whether the conrod moves upward or downward the blade will move forward. If the lift cam works on the forward stroke then it has to cut on the back stroke. Anti clockwise will keep the conrod in tension rather than compression when under load
lol like I said Stuart I couldn't explain things to save myself.

Phil
If you look at the video, the arm is down when the conrod is on the top half of the gear.(in the video in tension, running clockwise). The arm is lifted when the conrod is on the bottom half of the gear(compression). If you reverse the motor, isn't the arm is still going to be lifted when the conrod is on the bottom have of the gear, which is when you want the arm down?

Stuart

Woodlee

26th January 2012, 12:45 AM

Yes that's it..... I think.... :rolleyes: ... so, the motor should run anti-clockwise and the crank should be at the top on the forward stroke, with the blade around so it's cutting on the forward stroke..

In the video, it's running backwards and the blade is reversed as well.. Kev's since reversed the motor and swapped the blade around..

Regards
Ray

Yes Ray that's correct .
edit added image

Kev

xXvapourXx

26th January 2012, 01:03 AM

You mean to tell me it's still there at that price?

Dave

it sure is, thought it would be gone by now but i guess not hahah

Cooper

Steamwhisperer

26th January 2012, 08:13 AM

If you look at the video, the arm is down when the conrod is on the top half of the gear.(in the video in tension, running clockwise). The arm is lifted when the conrod is on the bottom half of the gear(compression). If you reverse the motor, isn't the arm is still going to be lifted when the conrod is on the bottom have of the gear, which is when you want the arm down?

Stuart

Hi Stuart
You really have three eyes don't you. Now I am totally convinced I am an idiot. What I wasn't seeing is what would happen if the saw was cutting full capacity. In that situation all the stars are in alignment, it's chi has been centered and yin and yang are friends again. Perhaps if I just stuck to things I sorta know about. It would stop my head from exploding and probably everyone else's. That's another thing on the to do list, a new head brace lol

Sincere apologies to all
Phil

On edit: don't ever be afraid to call me an idiot.

Bryan

26th January 2012, 08:47 AM

I've always been skeptical about this whole debate. Seems like chasing fairies to me. Some cut one way, some the other. Mine is forward, and can't be otherwise. Both ways clearly work, as long as the lift is correct. Where it may be worth playing with is on home-brewed machines that have no lift, but even then the gains would be very marginal IMHO.

Steamwhisperer

26th January 2012, 09:33 AM

Thanks Bryan
Level headed as usual

Phil

Abratool

26th January 2012, 10:13 AM

Phil
We are still organising a "Support Group" for the Reciprocating- Motion- Mesmorised- Gazers.
I have my hand up to sit in the circle :)
regards
Bruce

Steamwhisperer

26th January 2012, 10:18 AM

I'm in, I'm in, I'm in. See its getting worse Bruce lol.

Woodlee

26th January 2012, 11:26 AM

Any way ,I'm bugg'd if I know why Dave needs a power hacksaw , any man with two shapers could make a set up like this .
Popular Science - Google Books (http://books.google.ie/books?id=hCYDAAAAMBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_v2_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=true)

scroll down through the pages to find the article

Steamwhisperer

26th January 2012, 11:36 AM

Haha excellent Kev
Two sicknesses all rolled into one

Phil

parkinson

13th February 2012, 10:12 AM

Hi,
Just got back from Bollie7's place with my new machine, thanks Bollie :2tsup::2tsup:
It's always good meeting members, and he is another great bloke I have met through this forum.:2tsup:

Not sure of the model as it's still on the trailer and the placard doesn't have anything on it, so some research will need to be done. He said it was bought new for a tafe in the late 80's early 90's so thats the only lead I have on it so far.

I know Kev has one and I remember another member had one so will be looking to guys for info, evidently it has the hydraulic lift/feed control. There is a control on it but I have only just brought it home so I have had no time to look it over yet.

Also, a while back someone got onto a place with cheap blades, can anyone remember where it was. I think from memory it was down SA somewhere.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195899&stc=1&d=1327392042

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195900&stc=1&d=1327392042

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195901&stc=1&d=1327392042

Hey Dave did u end up.getting it all working. Did u sort out the hydraulics? I have 2 one is the same as yours (6"-6") and maybe a few years later and the other is older but is huge (12"-12"). When I first got the smaller machine the hydraulic ram had seized and from being left out in the rain and required some motivation (hammer and brass rod) to actually get the ram to move, then some emmory paper to clean the bore. I then replaced the o'rig and it works great. And the larger machine has an automatic feed and lift control which also required some attention, basically new o'rings. Any way let us know what u think of it. And how it compares to the Bandsaw.
Scott

Dave J

13th February 2012, 04:07 PM

Hi Scott, and welcome to the forum, :2tsup::2tsup:
I have it in the shed but it will be a month or so before I get around to it. Thankfully a mate got me a skinny pallet jack and I was able to bring it through the side door, instead of trying to get it through one of the roller doors that haven't been able to be opened for a few years, LOL

Mine has hydraulic lift on the back stroke operated off the main crank shaft, and the hydraulics work but go down very slowly, so I would say it just needs a good clean out. I have a few metric and imperial Oring kits here so that should be no problem, the biggest head ache is working what colour to paint it, LOL.
I plan to restore it like new and keep it forever, so any time I spend on it will be worth it.

I would just like to thank a few guys on here, Matthew g contacted me about blades and passed some of his stash along to me at a very reasonable price, so a big thank you Matt.:2tsup:

Also Michael G contacted me a few days ago and also offered to buy some for me at his local second hand machinery shop, so a thank you to him as well. :2tsup:

If I can return the favour in any way just let me know.
This forum never ceases to amaze me with the generosity that goes around on here.

Dave

Stustoys

13th February 2012, 07:34 PM

Get your finger out Dave, it's not like the weather in nsw has been anything to write home about.:D
Stuart

bollie7

14th February 2012, 07:56 AM

, the biggest head ache is working what colour to paint it, LOL.
Dave
That cacky blue is the original factory colour. (which you probably know anyway:) ) I think a hammer finish of similar colour would look ok.

I still haven't got my mill out. Ground is too soft to get a truck in. I was hoping to have a go this Sat but then it rained again up here for a few hours last night. grrrrrr.

bollie7

Dave J

14th February 2012, 01:17 PM

bollie7

15th February 2012, 08:17 AM

Thanks Bollie, I am wanting to paint a few other machines and want a colour for them all. I am thinking of a really light Grey and a darker Grey on the base. I don't mind the light colour on the HM52 mill, but it is like a creamy green sort of colour and says H&F which I don't like, LOL

As for your mill your not trying hard enough. I will come and get it out for you, but may miss your drop off point and just have to bring it home with me.:D

Seriously though, we have had a lot of rain lately, my yard/paddock is the same.

Dave

Fair enough re colour.
This rain is really starting to tick me off. Was talking to the crane truck owner yesterday and naturally enough he's a bit reluctant to try and get the mill at the moment. I might have to move it out of the shed and wrap it up so they can get it when ever they can. Not my prefered option for a number of reasons but starting to look like I might have to go that way.
Does anyone up here have a Hovercraft with a crane that will lift 1000Kg? lol

This thing is rapidly heading towards the point where it has cost me more to move it around than what it cost me to by it. Still if I sold it, I would never be able to afford to buy another one later in the same condition.

bollie7