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View Full Version : Help I need a jig to cut blanks



nz_carver
26th February 2012, 09:44 PM
Hey all lathe last week I got my slabs from Greg
Iv cut my first lot of blanks round

The next day I got some more slabs 4 in all
I have cut 12 rounds out of one slab 300mm round
Out of the small slab

I still have 3 more slabs to cut there big slabs
So I cut them down to 400mm 400mm
And 500 by 500

Now after cutting 12 round I was thinking I have seen a jig that gos on your bandsaw to cut blanks round has any one out plans to make a jig?

Thanks Dave

wood hacker
26th February 2012, 10:44 PM
Dave

If you can get your hands on a copy of the May 2011 woodturning mag there is a description on p63 of a nice little jig, that I copied and use for all my circle work :).
If you can't get hold of a copy let me know and I'll post some pics and a description.

cheers
WH

TTIT
26th February 2012, 11:04 PM
...or you could try making one like mine here! (http://www.ttit.id.au/gadgets/gadgets.htm#Circle) :shrug:

Paul39
27th February 2012, 05:54 AM
People start with ROUND blanks???

tea lady
27th February 2012, 08:13 AM
People start with ROUND blanks???Only if we're lazy! :D Plus I like to use the cut of fcorners for my "tiny bowls". Which people seem to like!

NeilS
27th February 2012, 03:48 PM
This is mine (underside shown)

199567

The cleats fits in the mitre track.

Holes are 1" apart. One row is for full inches and the other half inches. Each hole is marked with a measurement and each is countersunk and threaded to take a screw-pin on which the blank rotates.

Small to medium blanks up to 12" diam can be cut on either side of the blade to even up the wear on the blade. Blanks up to 26" diam can be cut on the outboard side.

I chose this design to maximise the height of blanks (just 8mm for the jig) and to even up the wear on blade.

Blanks are marked with a compass (or trammel beam for larger blanks) to get the best out of the blank and the size written on each blank. I then group the blanks into batches of the same size to minimise the number of times the pin has to be moved. The centre marks are then quickly drilled to depth with a drill/countersink combo bit. The countersink helps to locate the hole on the pin which is done blind as the blank is upside down on the jig.

It takes a few seconds to move the pin, which is the main downside of this jig design, other than the initial time it tool to tap all those holes, but that is long forgotten after the thousand or so uses it has now had. There is a downside to every design, you just choose the one which is the least annoying to you.

I think Robo's design (hope he doesn't mind me posting it here) has its adavantages, ease of construction being at least one of them.

199568 199569


TTIT's would be beyond me...:-

It would be interesting to see any other successful designs.

tea lady
27th February 2012, 06:08 PM
I think Robo's design (hope he doesn't mind me posting it here) has its adavantages, ease of construction being at least one of them.

199568 199569


I used 's the other day for the spalted birch logs I found on the side of the road! :cool:I've done NIP log sections with it too! Pretty good!

wheelinround
27th February 2012, 06:45 PM
I used 's the other day for the spalted birch logs I found on the side of the road! :cool:I've done NIP log sections with it too! Pretty good!


No Pics never happened :U


Dave some ideal jig plans on here TTIT's the best yet. :2tsup::2tsup: