Cleaning

[bwal74]

Hi,

Quick question. Going to clean my old hercus this weekend. On the gears and shinny metal parts, is it best to use kerosine and steelwool? I was going to use WD40 but have been instructed on the error of my ways.

Cheers Ben.

[kwijibo99]

G'day Ben,
Kero, small brass wire brush and scotchbrite has always worked for me.
Steel wool is good too but I find the scotchbrite lasts a bit longer as it holds together better. You dont get the millions of little bits of steel floating around either.
For stubborn dried on goop aerosol brake cleaner works very well to, I buy the cheap stuff from Repco for about $5.50 a can, be careful using it on painted surfaces though and use in an open area to avoud being chased by pink elephants and such.
Cheers,
Greg.

[Anorak Bob]

Ben,

The WD-40 warning was in regards to the contents of the aerosol can only. I use a grey ScotchBrite pad. I'm sure kero and steel wool will be fine.

BT

[Michael G]

Another option for cleaning is diesel (which I think is roughly 1part mineral oil to 4 parts kerosene). Kerosene should be fine. As I've said before if you run it through a filter paper you can get some extra life out of it.

Michael

[Big Shed]

Ben,

The WD-40 warning was in regards to the contents of the aerosol can only. I use a grey ScotchBrite pad. I'm sure kero and steel wool will be fine.

BT

What's wrong with the WD40 in the aerosol can?

I use the cheap ones from Supercheap and they seem to work OK, should I be worried?

[Anorak Bob]

What's wrong with the WD40 in the aerosol can?

I use the cheap ones from Supercheap and they seem to work OK, should I be worried?


Fred, a copy and paste from another thread. The comments are based on my experience with the stuff.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/images/icons/icon1.gif Wd-40
I am only refering to WD-40 in an aerosol can. I do use the product in a hand sprayer.

My shed has open eaves and no ceiling allowing the ingress of moisture ridden air. Corrosion is a constant battle. During winter it's moisture, during summer it's the result of sweaty hands touching bare metal.

A number of years ago, when fortunately I had only one lathe, we experienced one of those rare winter days when we had fog. Every metal surface in my shed was wet. I cover my machines with cotton sheets and even under the sheet covering the Hercus there was condensation. I sprayed the lathe with aerosol WD-40 and to my horror found the lathe coated in a light layer of rust the following morning. Never used the stuff since.

I wipe all the bright metal surfaces on my two lathes, two drills, two mills .... with Vactra way oil. For lesser used items, wheel bearing grease.

This is my experience with the stuff and I'm not alone -

WD 40 and RUST - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web (http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/wd-40-rust-130319/)


I'm sure others will use the spray can version with no ill effects. I got caught out.

BT

[Big Shed]

Thanks Bob, come to think of it I had a similar experience on my tablesaw cast iron top, when I first got it. I put it down to being cast iron and have used Lanotex on there ever since.

Good to know, I'll use kero or diesel from now on.:2tsup:

[Groggy]

I'll add to those on the no side. Years ago I moved overseas and though I would 'protect' my tools with a spray of WD40. As it turned out all the tools were fine - except the ones I had sprayed. I was horrified to find pliers, screwdrivers and just about every measuring tool covered in a crust of rust. Very expensive lesson.

Now I use covers on machines and Silverglide. Hand tools get Camelia oil. Clearly most of my stuff is woodwork machinery and tools, not metal machines and tools, but the WD40 lesson still applies.

In fact, I don't know if I have a can any more, mostly I use Inox.

[Bryan]

I like diesel too. Cheaper than kero and doesn't stink. It's oilier too. I use stiff plastic brushes, like dish brushes, and ordinary green scotchbrite (not on ways). If you want a squirt bottle that copes with petroleum products, see here: https://www.bolt.com.au/inox-lanox-crc-protecta-spray-applicators-c-789_826_832.html. I can vouch for the CRC branded one with diesel.

[Pete F]

I recently cleaned down a new Hercus with very caked on cosmoline on everything. I used WD-40 purchased in a container. The WD-40 was only to remove the crud and cosmoline, and not to seek any protection. After cleaning down, everything was oiled for lubrication and protection. WD-40 has a reputation as being crap in its advertised role (water displacement) and offers virtually no decent lubricating properties, despite common belief to the contrary. If you're going to use steel wool Ben I'd personally use extremely fine stuff, I sometimes use 0000 steel wool for cleaning, but prefer not to use anything abrasive if possible as it will otherwise scratch the paint.

Alternatives to WD-40 are kero, and diesel as mentioned, even a light oil for that matter. I use odourless kerosene in my parts washer.

Pete

Edit: as far as WD-40 actually encouraging rust, I'm interested in finding out more about this as. While it's lousy at its job, I can't see any reason the product itself should actually encourage rust. However I wonder if the WD-40 encouraged very fine dust to be attracted to the surface, and this dust held moisture that caused rust??? Just a thought.

[RayG]

For cleaning, I've been using green or grey scotchbrite with a 50/50 mix of kerosene and lanox in a squirt bottle, don't waste your money on spray cans of WD40 or lanox, buy the bulk containers. Lot's of rags and use a toothbrush to get into the fine nooks and crannies.

A good source of rags is the local laundry service, they often throw out large bags of scrap hand towels and such, that they are happy to get rid of.

Hard baked on crud, you might have to use some special grease, you can find it between your shoulder and your wrist... :D

For ways and precision bearing surfaces, don't use anything abrasive, definately NOT steel wool..

For things that you want a bit of a polished finish on, I use a soft wheel on the bench grinder, and a roloc scotchbrite disk on an angle grinder attachment, with a variable speed controller. If you have a linisher, I believe you can get scotchbrite belts, but I've never used them...although I'd like to give a scotchbrite belt a try one day.

Regards
Ray

[bwal74]

Hi All,

Thanks for the replies.

I'm going for a 50/50 of either diesel or kero, and lanox in a spray bottle and some scotchbrite.

In regards to the WD40, I'd been using it as a cutting coolant, quick cleaning product and protection from rust when not using the lathe etc. I'm moving away from the above simply because surface rust has started appearing on some parts of my lathe (hence the clean-up tomorrow).

Cheers Ben.

[Pete F]

Good tip on the rags Ray. I'd also suggest not to overlook the humble old paper towel. For simple cleanup type jobs 99% of the time I just use kitchen towels and find they're more than adequate in that role. Over in the US they sell quite cheaply a much tougher version of the same thing, just on steroids but I don't think they're available here, or if they are I'd predict they would be at "Australianised" prices! It's a shame as they're perfect, meanwhile I'm so cheap I can't even bring myself to "waste" rags on such mundane duties, so normally kitchen towels it is :p

As far as the scotchbrite belts, yes definitely give them a go Ray. One of the first things I bought for my workshop was a "multitool" linisher and scotchbrite belts are readily available in different grades for that. Just thinking about it I'd say it would be easily the most used tool in my workshop, and barely a day goes by when I don't use it. I normally leave a relatively coarse scotchbrite belt on it. You do need to be a bit careful as the scotchbrite belts definitely WILL remove metal, however the effect is less noticeable as the grades become finer. At the finest it's basically just polishing.

When I bought my multitool I thought it was a little expensive for what it is (especially when paired with a dedicated grinder), but truth is that and my bandsaw are the two tools that are used on virtually every fabrication job I do, the scotchbrite belts simply extend the usefulness 10 fold.

Pete

[Dave J]

Hi All,

Thanks for the replies.

I'm going for a 50/50 of either diesel or kero, and lanox in a spray bottle and some scotchbrite.

In regards to the WD40, I'd been using it as a cutting coolant, quick cleaning product and protection from rust when not using the lathe etc. I'm moving away from the above simply because surface rust has started appearing on some parts of my lathe (hence the clean-up tomorrow).

Cheers Ben.


I find the dishwashing green scourers work good and don't do any damage. You can buy them in the 6-10 pack at the super market cheap.

To keep the machines rust free I use and mix of around 40% motor oil and 60% Kero, and I find the Kero spreads it then evaporates leaving a thin film of oil left. I have been using this for years with no troubles at all, though some people don't like the smell of the Kero.

As for the WD, I have heard the same thing for many years about it causing rust.

Dave

[Pete F]

I have been using this for years with no troubles at all, though some people don't like the smell of the Kero.

Dave

Dave if the smell is an issue for anyone I can suggest simply exchanging the kero of odourless. For those who just can't get enough DIY, apparently you can make your own odourless kero by passing conventional kero through an activated charcoal filter. Can't say I've ever tried it however and simply pay the extra to buy it off the shelf.

BTW watch out for green scourers as they will indeed scratch paintwork. IIRC the abrasive is actually embedded within the nylon of the material, hence why there are different grades of scotchbrite available.

Pete

[Log]

I second Brian on the CRC sprayers(spray applicators). I have used several brands over the years and recon the CRC ones last the longest and don't dribble fluid down over your hand from the plunger area.

I have 5 of them with the following in them; kero for the quick cleaning of small parts etc, diesel for anti rust properties short term, methylated spirits for cleaning purposes, home brew protectorant for metal, and one with a light oil in it. The CRC sprayers eventually pack it in but they have always lasted me for quite a few years and way longer than the others.:2tsup:

I find my sprayers with the mentioned stuff in them extremely handy and I'd be lost without them around.
Oh, sometimes I put some oil in the diesel.

I buy em from my local Blackwoods industrial supplies joint.

Cheers.

If I'm not right, then I'm wrong, I'll just go bend some more bananas.