What is the best finish

[Gingermick]

I've made this square edge bowl from burdekin plum with a red cedar ring glued on that I think needs a gloss type wax finish.
All I have at the moment is this bowl finish stuff that seems to be mostly thinners and some varnish. I dont think these will give the required look to the wood.
What is the best type of finish for ornamental things?
Thanks
Mick

[smidsy]

I have only ever used two polishes, the Wax stick and the Shellawax cream both from ubeaut and based on using these two I would highly recommend them and anything else ubeaut makes.

Check out their website, I'm sure you'll find something from ubeaut that will suit your needs - http://www.ubeaut.com.au/ubhome.htm

Cheers
Paul

PS in case I need to say it. The fact that Ubeaut host this forum is irrelevant, the intergrity of my posts is important to me and I recommend their gear because I think it's good stuff - not because they host this forum.

[ptc]

Second that.

[Termite]

PS in case I need to say it. The fact that Ubeaut host this forum is irrelevant, the intergrity of my posts is important to me and I recommend their gear because I think it's good stuff - not because they host this forum.
Totaly agree.

[Gingermick]

Thanks, hopefully I'll be able to get some of that locally. I was looking at the directions online this morning and was a bit concrened that I had to put pressure on the finish while it was spinning on the lathe. Last time I did that on this square bowl, I ended up with bloody sore fingers.
Maybe if I apply the finish then apply pressure by holding a strip of material between my hands tightly and letting the tension in the fabric apply the pressure.
Cheers
Mick

[rsser]

... maybe.

How 'gloss' do you want it? (Edit: high gloss finishes tend to hide the figure in the timber; matter of taste, but not mine)

And if you want to finish off the lathe, you could consider sealing with a sanding sealer (spirit based nitrocellulose) and then building up a high lustre with rag-applied wax (used acc to instructions) and then buffed and recoated. You can buff with the Ubeat Swansdown mop, or a sheepskin cover on a 6" or 8" drill-powered rubber disc - I've had good results with the sheepskin. Just be very sparing with the wax. Build it up in layers.

My preferred wax is Cabinet Makers Wax from a WA firm, Gillins or something like that. It's quite hard. Have also used Liberon Black Bison, which I don't like, and am about to start playing around with Ubeaut paste wax.

Like you, I've got a square platter to finish (Huon pine, so fine grained)

Hope this helps.

[reeves]

I am pretty hooked on oil at the moment, with the saturation, burnishing, wet sanidng, polish pad kind of sequence.

SEeems u cna get good gloss on anything if u plan for it and use the wet and dry to really shine up the wood....then final oil and polish..

any of the usually culprits, EE shine, shellawax glow, canubra wax, etc would do a decent job..tho i am abit off wax at the moment, too heavy and kind of dominates the finsih...leaving it well, waxy feeling....

a solid burnish will probably get the look u want..


cheeeeeeeeer

[Termite]

Reeves, I've been using Ubeaut Traditional wax on all my furniture projects and find it gives a great finish and feel, particularly after the second coat. Don't know how it goes on turnings but I'm sure somebody has used it.

[rsser]

Agreed Reeves. But he has a square 'bowl', no? So finish off the lathe?

Have to confess that my main finish these days is Danish Oil. Increases the grain contrast like all oils, doesn't raise the grain like Organoil, gives some lustre like a wax (more with buffing), and is pretty foolproof to apply.

On the other hand, if you want the minimum of darkening, something else is needed.

[rsser]

Reeves, I've been using Ubeaut Traditional wax on all my furniture projects and find it gives a great finish and feel, particularly after the second coat. Don't know how it goes on turnings but I'm sure somebody has used it.

Termite, how do you find it stands up to water .. tea cup rings and the like?

[Gingermick]

My preferred wax is Cabinet Makers Wax from a WA firm, Gillins or

I couldn't find the ubeaut stuff in town so I bought some cabinet wax (there is a G in the name). It worked quite well on the burdekin plum. Not many instructions but.
Thanks all
Mick

[macca2]

I think you will find Gilly Stephenson is the WA wax you where trying to remember.

http://www.gillystephenson.com/

Macca

[Termite]

Termite, how do you find it stands up to water .. tea cup rings and the like?
Sorry Ern, I havent put it to that test.

[Little Festo]

I just brought a piece I made from Burdikin Plum to photograph today. The finnish was in danish oil buffed with the Gilly Stephen's Wax. There were several coats of oil applied as per polishers hand book. I had to use a polarising filter to cut some of the reflections from the shine. I mixed this batch of danish oil myself and was a bit heavy with the varnish in the mix, created a few problems and the gloss was quite high, may have been a bit duller with the proper mix.

Peter

[PAH1]

I have used the stevensons wax, but stopped using it because of the abysmal smell and the fact it leaves a somewhat tacky feel to the surface. The U-beaut traditional wax is in my opinion far better.

[rsser]

Wow .. great treatment of a fine piece of lumber. Wish we saw some of it down here!

[Gingermick]

<TABLE class=tborder cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 122425" vAlign=top><TD class=alt1 align=middle width=125>smidsy</TD><TD class=alt2>I have only ever used two polishes, the Wax stick and the Shellawax cream both from ubeaut and based on using these two I would highly recommend them and anything else ubeaut makes.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Thanks to all for the advice. I was happy with Gilly's finish but the bloke from SEQ woodworking supplies was in town today so I bought some shellawax cream.
I'm not quite so happy with Gilly's anymore. It was good but this shellawax is bloody amazing.
I sent pics to everyone.
Mick