Cutters for milling machine

[woodfast]

I noticed some cutters are plain some have threads on the other end of cutter sorry for my lack of knowledge can anybody explain why they are like this thankyou

[Ueee]

Hi,
Both cutters are fine to go in a collet chuck, the screw shank type can also be used in a special chuck, i cannot think on the name right now, but i wouldn't really worry about it yet.

To kill 2 birds with one post, as for your choice in mills, it really depends on what you want to do. Having a machine with factory power feed and coolant like the Hm50 is good (i have a 50) but personally i'd chase a second hand one, the chinease stuff is very inconsistent-you may get a good one, you may get a POS like me, or even have to send 1 or even 2 back like Dave J.

Ewan

[.RC.]

I guess you mean endmills/slot drills type cutters...

The shank is like that to fit in a certain collet chuck....

Threaded shank is called clarkson type.. The thread is to retain the cutter....

Straight type with the slot milled out of the side is called the Weldon type.. A set screw is supposed to screw into the slot to retain the cutter..

I think most of us use ER series collets which need neither a slot nor threaded shank, just a round section to grab and clamp to...

[Dave J]

I think the guys above have covered it for you,
The collets that come with the HM50 are not much good and you cant buy replacements, so plan on buying a ER32 collet chuck and a set of collets.

I notice the price went up on the HM50/52, but they now don't include a vise. It was not much of a vise, but good enough to get you going.

Dave

[woodfast]

I saw a used HM50 like new 18 months old but he is asking $3000 I think it's over priced as they are about $ 4000 new

[Stustoys]

I saw a used HM50 like new 18 months old but he is asking $3000 I think it's over priced as they are about $ 4000 new
Hi
Are you sure it was a 50 and not a 52?

Stuart

[Ueee]

I saw a used HM50 like new 18 months old but he is asking $3000 I think it's over priced as they are about $ 4000 new

Sorry, i didn't make myself very clear in my previous post, i would chase a non-Chinese machine, check out Bills machinery Used Machinery - Welcome to Bill's Machinery - Used Machinery Dealers (http://www.bmms.com.au/) there may be other places to look at on your side of the country, maybe BT might have some suggestions?
If you do want to go new i would get a smaller machine, save your money and keep an eye out for something bigger. From everything i've read the smaller machines seem to be better designed and made, the HM50/52 seems to be caught in no mans land between the small machines and the bridgeport style machines.
Ewan

[woodfast]

I confirmed with owner the mill is a HM 50. I will keep looking I thankyou for Idea for where to look for machines other than chinese made

[Dave J]

The HM50's where down to $3300 new including gst around around 1-1 1/2 years ago.

If you go for a used machine you will need to do your research and homework of what to look for on a used mill.
I agree there are better quality mills but they may have had a hard life being abused and not oiled very often.
I see a lot of people new to machining fall into this trap, and as they read and learn about machining they find they cant get a good result with there mill, so they ask a few questions on forums. They then start checking the accuracy of the mill with there new found skills and find the ways worn etc.
I am not recommending against it, just make sure you check it over or you could end up with a lemon that will cost you a fortunes to fix or need scraping.

A mill table spends most of it's life getting move around it's centre portion, the way to check it is to adjust the gib so it's firm in the centre, then wind the table to either end. If it tightens up of wont go to the end, you know it has a lot of wear.

With a new mill at least the ways, gears, etc will be new.The Chinese quality seems to be dropping as time goes on, I am not sure whether it's the sellers over here wanting to pay less, or the Chinese knowing they will sell anyway.

If I was to buy another machine I would buy a used one, but it might take me a long while to find a good one at a reasonable price.

Dave

[morrisman]

Some good advice from the forum members.

I considered buying an old used milling machine , but I dont have enough experience to check out the condition , I could have bought a worn out heap of junk

I got a new DM45 from STANDACO ( their last one ) .. it has the clunky quill feed , but apart from that , its been great . It's accurate enough for me , I can get a good finish to about .001" tolerance. The table power feed has made an enormous difference , I used a ford falcon wiper motor . One downside is the limited spindle speeds , but its possible to get around that , it hasn't inhibited my use so far . MIKE

PS Mine has the 1.5 HP motor and its never looked like stalling , the machine lets you know when its reached its limit , it shakes !

[Dave J]

Hi Mike, did you try adjusting the clock spring?

Dave

[morrisman]

Hi Mike, did you try adjusting the clock spring?

Dave

hi Dave

Clock spring ??? :?:?

[Dave J]

Hi Mike,
On my mill, on the opposite side of the head to the fine down feed the shaft from gear comes through the head and there is a clock spring on the end of it.

Do your mills have something like this, if not this is the problem with the quill dropping.

Dave

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204527&stc=1&d=1334025000

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204528&stc=1&d=1334025000

[morrisman]

Just had a look ..Yes its there :2tsup: A different design to yours, it has slots around the cap to adjust the tension

So you adjust it up tighter ? MIKE

[Dave J]

It should be adjusted so the quill returns on it's own, but place a collet chuck in the spindle as that will add more weight and is the way it's always used.
To tighten it you should have to turn it anti clockwise, be careful and gloves might be wise.
Mine has the screw underneath in the head casting, so after locking up the quill in the up position, you place an allen key of screw driver in one of the hole around the outside, then undo the screw.
You may want to take it off first and mark where the factory drilled indentations into it, that way you know where to turn it to.
It really doesn't need to go in a indentation, but is more secure there.

Bridgeport's mills are supposed to be adjusted so they just stay in place and don't return. I have tried it this way on mine but find I like it better to return to the top.

Dave

[Dave J]

Just to add to the above, when your winding it you will more than likely run out of room to turn it, so lock up the screw in any position to move to another hole. If you slip and it lets go, just pull your hands away and let it go as there is a lot of force in the spring, this is why I mentioned using gloves as they can be dangerous.

When I said using a allen key, I use the long T hand ones to get enough leverage.

Dave

[morrisman]

It should be adjusted so the quill returns on it's own, but place a collet chuck in the spindle as that will add more weight and is the way it's always used.
To tighten it you should have to turn it anti clockwise, be careful and gloves might be wise.
Mine has the screw underneath in the head casting, so after locking up the quill in the up position, you place an allen key of screw driver in one of the hole around the outside, then undo the screw.
You may want to take it off first and mark where the factory drilled indentations into it, that way you know where to turn it to.
It really doesn't need to go in a indentation, but is more secure there.

Bridgeport's mills are supposed to be adjusted so they just stay in place and don't return. I have tried it this way on mine but find I like it better to return to the top.

Dave

OK , I will adjust it , see if that improves things , it should

thanks ....MIKE

[Dave J]

What is it like now, does it fall down when the quill lock is undone, or stay up?

Dave

[morrisman]

When the quill lock is undone , it now returns up to the column . I think I now have it near its max. tension .

It seems have got rid of the clunkness, the quill dropping

The hex head bolt in the centre is touchy , too tight and it locks up the quill .

MIKE