PDA

View Full Version : wooden shower mat - which timber? etc







desbromilow
10th April 2012, 06:50 PM
G'Day,

long story short - "new" house - slippery shower floor - looking at options...
I'm thinking to build a shower mat (curved slats on a basic frame) to sit inside the shower. it would be stood on it's edge after showering so it can drain and dry...

What would be the best timber to use (bear in mind I'm limited to "Bunnings" offerings)

I know I can get jarrah locally, and I'm sure I can get the various decking timbers..

If I use decking timber - reeded side up, or down?
Oil based finish, or polyurethane?

I know I'll need to refinish it from time to time (based on decking posts) but I suspect the only surfaces accessible once assembled will be the curved top surfaces, and the partial undersides - the overlapped slats and most of the frame will be inacessible unless I totally dismantle it.

Any advice gratefully received - I'm sure others have done something like this before...

Thanks,
Des

LGS
10th April 2012, 06:56 PM
Hi Des,

Something like Merbau would be good, finished in Poly I would think.:)

Rob

dabbler
10th April 2012, 08:17 PM
Two things spring to mind...
Platforms in showers are easy to fall off (don't laugh).
Make sure you don't end up with a sliding platform (if your feet slip then it might too).

And a third...
My mum and dad have had several in untreated non-descript pine tacked together with galv staples. They all have lasted many many many years but they left them outside the shower area away from moisture when not used. Last one was from Bunnings. It is still going after 8 years.

Ball Peen
10th April 2012, 09:27 PM
Two things spring to mind...
Platforms in showers are easy to fall off (don't laugh).
Make sure you don't end up with a sliding platform (if your feet slip then it might too).

And a third...
My mum and dad have had several in untreated non-descript pine tacked together with galv staples. They all have lasted many many many years but they left them outside the shower area away from moisture when not used. Last one was from Bunnings. It is still going after 8 years.


I'm with dabbler. 3 years ago I knocked up a rack for soap,shampoo,etc.out of Radiata, no finish. It hangs in the shower. I take it out and clean it once in a while and have a good look at it. It's like the day I put it in. I really didn't expect much but there you go.

dabbler
10th April 2012, 09:39 PM
I'm with dabbler. 3 years ago I knocked up a rack for soap,shampoo,etc.out of Radiata, no finish. It hangs in the shower. I take it out and clean it once in a while and have a good look at it. It's like the day I put it in. I really didn't expect much but there you go.

At risk of hijacking the thread - Bill, can you tell me more about your shower rack ?
How do you hang it and what joinery is used? I've been looking at the el cheapo wire rack in my shower rusting away and wondering if I can recycle some alum. vertical blind rods I have into a wood and alum job.

Ball Peen
10th April 2012, 09:53 PM
Hi dabbler,

I'll post pics tomorrow. Most of it is12mm with screwed butt joints, no glue. I was tired of the rusting metal one also.

Wongo
10th April 2012, 10:21 PM
I would use Western Red Cedar

ash233
10th April 2012, 10:57 PM
I'm with Wongo, western red cedar is the go, i made a couple about 10 years ago and they are still going strong. I screwed together the sections with small stainless screws. The timber still looks great and they are as sturdy as the day i made them. These are used to stand on when getting out of the shower.

Very similar to this:

Modern Designer Bath Mat. Western Red Cedar (http://www.dreamsbathsoul.com.au/products/Modern-designer-timber%7B47%7Dwooden-Cedar-bath-%7B47%7D-shower-mat.-.html)

I also believe the interior of saunas is made from WRC??

Wongo
10th April 2012, 11:02 PM
It certainly is.

China
10th April 2012, 11:55 PM
If you want to make a high end unit use teak

ian
11th April 2012, 12:41 AM
Teak or WRC
use bronze screws

whitewood
11th April 2012, 10:21 AM
I would use Western Red Cedar


I believe Paulownia would perform equally as well and be much the same price.

I can post what you would need for a bath mat and you wouldn't even have to go to Bunnings.

Whitewood

desbromilow
11th April 2012, 10:29 AM
Thanks all for the replies and advice....

The slip issue should be covered by making the mat about 10mm less than the opening in the shower - the shower is boxed in with walls on three sides, and a 125mm x 40mm jarrah threshold acts as a splashguard on the fourth side - I should be able to drop the mat in that area with the walls and threshold stopping it sliding around too far.

If I use western Red Cedar, do I need to finish it with oil or poly?
Worst case I'll go with the pine option, but stay away from FJ grades, just buy the clear

thanks,
Des

nrb
11th April 2012, 10:39 AM
If you go with WRC no finish is needed:2tsup:

Ball Peen
11th April 2012, 02:40 PM
This thread has been active. To do it again I too would WRC.

This is Radiata, no polish or glue. I shot 25mm nails that have a bit of adhesive holding the clip together. I screwed the shelf and the 1/2 laps. it is 3 years old.

The backdrop timber in the pics is some kind of Tassie Oak, no polish, on the verandah 20 years.
 
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv225/billandmimi/shower%20caddy/AP4110001.jpg
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv225/billandmimi/shower%20caddy/BP4110004.jpg
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv225/billandmimi/shower%20caddy/CP4110003.jpg
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv225/billandmimi/shower%20caddy/DP4110006.jpg
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv225/billandmimi/shower%20caddy/EP4110007.jpg

beer is good
11th April 2012, 03:16 PM
I was thinking about making wooden shower mats a few years ago and the timber supplier said teak was the best wood. I know that teak is preferred for boats. I think teak has a lot of oil in it and you may find a cheaper local timber with the right oil.

Ball Peen
11th April 2012, 03:56 PM
I was thinking about making wooden shower mats a few years ago and the timber supplier said teak was the best wood. I know that teak is preferred for boats. I think teak has a lot of oil in it and you may find a cheaper local timber with the right oil.


Do you mean the good oil or oils ain't oils ? For me this sort of stuff is like bread, milk and sandpaper. When I'm out I get more.:2tsup:

jenno
11th April 2012, 04:08 PM
I use red cedar either natural not oiled or I apply Orange Oil. Glued with Titebond 3 and 25mm brads. Sold heaps, people love em.

issatree
11th April 2012, 08:31 PM
Hi All,
Please excuse my Ignorance, but why would you want to stand on a Wooden Shower Mat.
We have no trouble with our Smoothed Cement Base.
We are both getting on a bit, & have never slipped over.
Then you have to find a spot to put the Wooden Mat, so it can dry out.
Someone remarked, that it could slip anyway, but of course that is easily fixed, either with Silicone or Rubber Dots on the bottom.
I'm usually last to Shower. & I have a Squeegee that hangs between the 2 Taps, & I clean all the water off the sides & bottom of the shower, & it is virtually drier than me, by the time I've finished.
Works well for us.

desbromilow
11th April 2012, 10:34 PM
issatree,

I can only speak for myself - but basically the tiles the previous owner(or the one before) installed in the floor of the shower are dangerously slippery - even when dry they are questionable, but once wet they are downright lethal. We've used those stick down "pebble mats" but they will also slide on the tiles. I see I only have a few options, one it to install different tiles, the other is a form of coating, and the last is a better mat.
I've neither the time, or confidence to start retiling when I'm working my current roster (away from home all week days, home only Sat and Sun), and I've considerably more confidence in the wooden mat option compared to etching tiles to install a coating.

The mat will dry out standing on it's edge in the showere recess, but after loking at the pricing and the pine shower caddy, maybe I should just leave the cedar mat in there until it fails, and then replace it... I will try and look after what I make, but at $6 pLm for WRC in 160x19mm at bunnings, I can afford to replace it in a decade or so.

I'll be buying the WRC this Sat morning, and hopefully showering on it that night... so goes the plans of mice and men...

Thanks all for the advice - I'll try and take some build and finished product photos
Des

desbromilow
16th April 2012, 04:40 PM
Made it!!!!

long story short (second attempt at this posting - HOW do you stop "tokens expiring" when inserting images?..

bunnings botched up on the wood - the 160x19 WRC turned out to be weatherboard (bevel shaped) so I had to change plans. bought "Merbau" based on it's "oiliness" and suposed weather resistance.

Split each board lengthwise, then routed a radius on the top edges (so water couldn't pool)
Cut to lengths (1250 for length, 900 for width) and screwed with brass screws.
trimed for length then radiused the ends. Sand and several coats of Cabots aquadeck oil.

Works well, and looks fine (see pictures below)

under construction:http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/59217-desbromilow/albums/desbromilow-s-pictures/8698t-starting-assemble-shower-mat.jpg

original lethal shower: http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/59217-desbromilow/albums/desbromilow-s-pictures/8699t-lethal-shower.jpg

Mat installed: http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/59217-desbromilow/albums/desbromilow-s-pictures/8700t-shower-mat-place.jpg

and mat drying: http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/59217-desbromilow/albums/desbromilow-s-pictures/8701t-shower-mat-drying.jpg

thanks all once again,
Des

rustynail
16th April 2012, 10:44 PM
Des, Im not sure what height the cleats are, but if they exceed the height of the flashing behind the tiles you may end up with a damp problem. If small rubber feet were fixed to the cleats to raise them off the floor enough to allow the water to get away without build up. This would also prevent soap scum build up.

whitewood
17th April 2012, 08:09 AM
Des,

Looks great and given you can stand it up after use i should last for a long time. May need a touch up every year or so to keep it looking as good as it does now. I'm relieved the 160 x 19 mm WRC at $6.00 per l/m at Bunnings was not value as it seemed too cheap to be true. My 150 x 25 mm Paulownia is around $9.00 per l/m.

Whitewood

desbromilow
17th April 2012, 11:12 AM
That's the joys of working away from home - have to plan everything during my lunch breakbased on phone calls to places like bunnings, then fly in Late friday night, race around early Sat morning to collect parts and then into the workshop. Sometimes I can order over the phone and arrange for the better half to collect, but sometimes it pays to look at it yourself before handing over the cash.

My wife informed me last night that after her shower she lifted the mat and found evidence of staining on the grout - will be keeping an eye on this.

Acco
17th April 2012, 11:41 AM
long story short (second attempt at this posting - HOW do you stop "tokens expiring" when inserting images?..


You generally get this when the file size of the image is large, try resizing your images to 800x600 before uploading.