Hermit 12th April 2012, 02:40 AM I'm having a late night cleaning up a used compound mitre saw that I was given today. (Yep, given - the price was right.)
It has a 24T blade at the moment and I'd like to change it to a more suitable one for mitre joints on boxes.
I figured a 40T would be pretty good, and have my eye on a DeWalt Smooth but aren't sure if it will fit.
The DeWalt is the right diameter and the hole is correct, (5/8"/16mm), but I noticed that it has a diamond-shaped printed mark near the centre, maybe implying a diamond-shaped cutout on the back to suit the saw.
My blade has no 'diamond', so I was wondering if the DeWalt will fit.
(The DeWalt blade is on eBay, so I can't see the back. It's $26 delivered, by the way.)
Any help appreciated. Pics of both below:
Gaza 12th April 2012, 04:50 AM suggest going for 80t blade for boxes.
asfar as the dewalt does should be ok you can buy a bushing set for a few dollars if they are missing from the packet.
Hermit 12th April 2012, 09:48 AM suggest going for 80t blade for boxes.
asfar as the dewalt does should be ok you can buy a bushing set for a few dollars if they are missing from the packet.
Good one, Gaza. Thanks for the reply.
Last night in my searching I didn't see anything bigger than 40T with a 16mm hole.
Dunno where to try next. The original blade is buckled, too, so I'm out of business for now.
I'll try to find an 80T today.
Now I've been reading all this stuff about the importance of rake angle and such. ????? I think I'll just stick to my hand saws.
Hermit 12th April 2012, 09:59 AM suggest going for 80t blade for boxes.
asfar as the dewalt does should be ok you can buy a bushing set for a few dollars if they are missing from the packet.
Two questions, if you don't mind:
1. Do you have any idea where I might get one of these bushing sets?
2. Are there bushing sets to adapt from a 16mm to a 30mm arbor?
(I saw plenty of 60T blades for 210mm x 30mm saws.
KorDes 12th April 2012, 08:13 PM I dont think getting an 80T blade for a GMC drop saw is gona make any difference. The quality of the cut is already limited by the quality of the dropsaw. If I was you just get a 40T fine cutting blade with alternate bevel teeth. The Dewalt blade should fit your saw.
I would recommend finding a trade store / saw doctor in your area that can offer sound advice on a correct blade for you. They can supply the necessary bushings.
You can get bushing sets to go from 30mm to 16mm, but I wouldnt like to recommend it as theres not alot left of the sawblade being tightened to the dropsaw.
Also you cant bush the blade from 16mm to a larger bore. The only way to get around that is to get the blade rebored by a good sawdoctor.
Jim Carroll 12th April 2012, 08:34 PM The 40t is as fine as you will get for that size blade, The centre is ok for your saw.
As indicated a finer blade would be better but you have to remember that more teeth slower cut and with that GMC saw you may get flex in the machine.
Hermit 12th April 2012, 10:05 PM Thanks, guys, for the good advice.
I know the quality of the GMC saw and don't expect it to perform perfectly, it's only a stop-gap measure until I can afford a decent sliding compound mitre saw. Meantime..... I tightened up the pivot until there was no play and it just returns and set up the fence and adjustments properly last night. As long as I don't lean on it and take it easy, I might get half-decent cuts (if I'm lucky).
I found another today on eBay, a 60T x 210mm x 30mm (with 16mm adaptor), but if adaptors for 16mm to 30mm are not a good idea, I guess I'll stick with the 40T DeWalt.
I appreciate the help - I'd never even touched a mitre saw until yesterday. It even took me 10 minutes to work out how to get the blade off.
Jim, interestingly, you share my brother's name. He's Jim Carroll too. Makes your name really easy to remember.
... Steve Carroll
Gaza 12th April 2012, 10:22 PM I found another today on eBay, a 60T x 210mm x 30mm (with 16mm adaptor), but if adaptors for 16mm to 30mm are not a good idea, I guess I'll stick with the 40T DeWalt.
no problems using the bushings,
if you need one they sell them at the hardware stores in a little packet or power tool shops have them.
Hermit 12th April 2012, 11:05 PM no problems using the bushings,
if you need one they sell them at the hardware stores in a little packet or power tool shops have them.
I spotted a packetof half a dozen or so different sizes in the local cheap tools store today. Just washers anyway.
So, 60T with bush vs 40T DeWalt. The answer - I'll buy both. If the 60T gives no trouble, I'll use it for box joints and the 40T DeWalt for GP work.
Thanks all, once again. And thanks to YouTube for teaching me how to set up the saw properly.
I'm still not getting subscription notifications. A PITA.
SAISAY 15th April 2012, 03:54 PM Just make sure it is for a COMPOUND SAW and not a circular saw.
They spin in opposite directions :oo:
Cheers
Wolffie
Kyle 15th April 2012, 04:02 PM Just make sure it is for a COMPOUND SAW and not a circular saw.
They spin in opposite directions :oo:
Cheers
Wolffie
Um... just make sure you flip the blade so the teeth are facing the correct direction.
I swap blades between my Hitachi 8" SCMS and Makita 8 1/4" circ saw all the time.
Hermit 15th April 2012, 04:03 PM Just make sure it is for a COMPOUND SAW and not a circular saw.
They spin in opposite directions :oo:
Cheers
Wolffie
Wolffie, you're the first to mention this. Thanks heaps.
Just looking back at the pics in my first post, they do spin in opposite directions.
So, an important question - Can I just flip the blade?
The arbor on my saw does not have a diamond or other shape for locating the blade, just flat surfaces, so is there any good reason that it has to go 'printing outwards'?
Hermit 15th April 2012, 04:05 PM Um... just make sure you flip the blade so the teeth are facing the correct direction.
I swap blades between my Hitachi 8" SCMS and Makita 8 1/4" circ saw all the time.
Sorry, Kyle, we were typing at the same time.
You've answered my question already.
Excellent, thanks.
I haven't bought the blades yet - waiting for payday. I'll go ahead as planned.
Edit: I'm reminded why I like this place so much - as a rank amateur I'd be lost without the help from all you guys. Thanks again.
Chris Parks 15th April 2012, 04:13 PM The rake of the blade is important to ensure an easy cut & safe cut, it needs to be a a negative rake on the teeth see here...
Selecting a Blade for a Sliding Miter Saw Video (http://www.5min.com/Video/Selecting-a-Blade-for-a-Sliding-Miter-Saw-516908663)
It is a compound mitre saw but still applies and goes on to explain basic facts about blades.
Hermit 15th April 2012, 04:35 PM The rake of the blade is important to ensure an easy cut & safe cut, it needs to be a a negative rake on the teeth see here...
Selecting a Blade for a Sliding Miter Saw Video (http://www.5min.com/Video/Selecting-a-Blade-for-a-Sliding-Miter-Saw-516908663)
It is a compound mitre saw but still applies and goes on to explain basic facts about blades.
I mentioned this in post #3.
It would be good to choose by rake angle, but I don't have a selection to choose from.
Also, the blades that I've seen haven't mentioned rake angle at all. Do I have to measure blades before buying them?
I reckon I'll buy the two mentioned blades and see how they go.
The advice is getting confusing. Some say 40T, some 80T, some say an adaptor is OK, some say not, etc.
Now, according to the linked video, not one single blade I've looked at is suitable.
Hermit 15th April 2012, 04:51 PM This might be the best answer: -
Chris Parks 15th April 2012, 05:14 PM I mentioned this in post #3.
Now, according to the linked video, not one single blade I've looked at is suitable.
That could well be. I was injured using a mitre saw and looking back I think it was due to the wrong blade choice.
SAISAY 15th April 2012, 05:32 PM Hermit
The reason the blades are diffferent is that if you put a circular saw blade on a mitre saw, it will be pushing the timber out towards you instead of in towards the machine and vice versa if you use a mitre blade in a circular saw.
Cheers
Wolffie
LGS 15th April 2012, 05:35 PM I'll throw in my 2c and really mess with your mind! (Not really). I have two mitre saws, a Makita LS1214 on which I use a 305mm 60 tooth blade and a Festool Kapex on which I also use a 260mm 60 tooth blade. I find that I get excellent box mitres from both saws using this many teeth. I have tried an 80 and even a De Walt100 tooth blade on the Makita and had issues with bowing along the cut. Since using only 60 tooth blades, I've had no problems. Also, in my mind, FWIW, Mitre saw blades are for Mitre saws and Circular saw blades are for Circular saws.
Regards,
Rob
Hermit 15th April 2012, 05:36 PM Hermit
The reason the blades are diffferent is that if you put a circular saw blade on a mitre saw, it will be pushing the timber out towards you instead of in towards the machine and vice versa if you use a mitre blade in a circular saw.
Cheers
Wolffie
Makes good sense.
You know, I'm seriously leaning toward the Carbatec mitre saw above for accurate box work. I don't plan to do much in the way of traditional joined boxes, so don't really need a power saw for that and I do like using hand-tools.
Hermit 15th April 2012, 05:50 PM I'll throw in my 2c and really mess with your mind! (Not really). I have two mitre saws, a Makita LS1214 on which I use a 305mm 60 tooth blade and a Festool Kapex on which I also use a 260mm 60 tooth blade. I find that I get excellent box mitres from both saws using this many teeth. I have tried an 80 and even a De Walt100 tooth blade on the Makita and had issues with bowing along the cut. Since using only 60 tooth blades, I've had no problems. Also, in my mind, FWIW, Mitre saw blades are for Mitre saws and Circular saw blades are for Circular saws.
Regards,
Rob
Thanks Rob. Regardless of what I put on this GMC, I plan to buy a better quality sliding compound mitre saw as soon as possible and will want to fit the best blade possible, so all of this info is useful. I'm just trying to make this free saw as useable as I can.
SAISAY 15th April 2012, 06:12 PM Makes good sense.
You know, I'm seriously leaning toward the Carbatec mitre saw above for accurate box work. I don't plan to do much in the way of traditional joined boxes, so don't really need a power saw for that and I do like using hand-tools.
I had one of those for making picture frames and it was very accurate.
Cheers
Wolffie
Hermit 15th April 2012, 06:16 PM I had one of those for making picture frames and it was very accurate.
Cheers
Wolffie
Great, thanks Wolfie. I'm glad to hear that. I'll buy one as well as setting up a decent power saw. Great for those Winter nights when I want to work in the house.
Can't beat hand-tools for dust, either. My lungs aren't what they used to be.
| |