Dictionary of terms

[plantagenon]

Just a thought.

For beginners it is difficult to understand some of the terminology used, for example, finial. When I began I thought, what the hell is that and had to Google it to find out. Same applies to lathes.

Is there a chance that someone might be good enough to start a tutorial on penmaking terminology with photos and place it on the tutorial site to assist new members?

[bdar]

http://content.penturners.org/library/general_reference/Acronyms.pdf

[plantagenon]

bdar

Thanks for the link but that's more like the social users guide on MSN rather than a serious point of reference for beginners. My initial comments related more to a photo of a lathe or a pen with arrows pointing to the specifics and describing them; much like Amos does in his posts. However, all was not lost as I finally worked out what IMHO meant :doh:

[bdar]

LMAO :2tsup:

[plantagenon]

bdar

Now that's a term I do understand although its been a long while since I used MSN Messenger. I'm not even on Facebook and refuse to try and work out bloody Twitter. :C

[artme]

bdar

Now that's a term I do understand although its been a long while since I used MSN Messenger. I'm not even on Facebook and refuse to try and work out bloody Twitter. :C

Ah11 A fellow modernist Philistine!!:D:D

[Pariss]

Here's a start, Lathe - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe) :2tsup:

[plantagenon]

Now Philistine is a word I understand without having to refer to the Oxford English Dictionary (as if there is another Dictionary worthy of reference anyway). Nevertheless I think I prefer the word, Traditionalist. It suggests preserving something of value rather than refusing to accept new ideas.

[plantagenon]

No one seemed terribly interested in my suggestion so I will do it myself over the next couple of weeks if it can be place on here as a tutorial. How is that done?

[canuk]

I can understand completely how you feel. I started in this addiction about 4 years ago, and came across BLO, BOW, and quite a few others and it was a mystery. My suggestion is when there is an acronym or some term that is not understood, post it and ask for clarification. I don't imagine there are a whole dictionary full of terms that need to be clarified, but if there are, so be it. I am still trying to remember the initials for one particular type of wood that was referenced here, I found out what it was back then, and since then - I forgot it. It wasn't HRB!

John (Canuk)

[Penpal]

Better than a dictionary,

Cheap as chips from David at timberbits the Pen Makers Bible a worthy book from beginning to Kitless with incredible pics produced by a Physicist and downright tremendous pen turner from America. He autographed my copy and I have long admired his work and ethics. Reinventing the wheel is fun, the IAP in the USA has a big library of descriptive purchases.

Step 2 go to an established Wood Club.

Step 3 go to a Working with Wood show for at least two days many clubs there represented.

I do respect your aims and ambitions.

As a photographer for a million years one description I will always remember in classification of a sort of dictionary.
Out of whack out of focus pic definition Sentimentally soft.

Kind regards Peter.:;:U:2tsup:

[gawdelpus]

I can understand completely how you feel. I started in this addiction about 4 years ago, and came across BLO, BOW, and quite a few others and it was a mystery. My suggestion is when there is an acronym or some term that is not understood, post it and ask for clarification. I don't imagine there are a whole dictionary full of terms that need to be clarified, but if there are, so be it. I am still trying to remember the initials for one particular type of wood that was referenced here, I found out what it was back then, and since then - I forgot it. It wasn't HRB!

John (Canuk)
Try hondura rose burl :) don't worry I have stacks of blanks with nondescript titles and numbers hehe ,cheers ~ John

[plantagenon]

Hi Peter

Thanks for the reference to the book. Fred suggested the Pen Turners Bible a few days ago and I have it on order from the UK for under $20 with free delivery. The point I was making was not so much for myself but also for others who are new to pen turning, just joined this forum and can find a reference point without difficulty. However, thanks to John I now know what HRB is. Anyway NAWAI


(not a well accepted idea) :U

[edblysard]

I like the idea, but was wondering about a good way to excute it....would you want say, a term like "mandrel" to simply have a written definition, or be accompanied by photos of the various types?
Would one person post all of it, or would you want it to be based on members contributions?
Would it work better if each definition had a web link to various sites that have more detailed definitions or photos...?
See where I am going with this?
Let me know what you want, and I would be happy to contribute.
I think it would almost have to be a group effort.

[munruben]

I think its a great idea. When I first started making pens, I had no idea of the terminology of pen makers and didn't even know what a mandrel was or what it looked like. Had no idea what CA was or BLO so I can see the need for something like this among beginners also handy for more advanced pen makers. Go for it. :2tsup::2tsup:

[KBs PensNmore]

I think its a great idea. When I first started making pens, I had no idea of the terminology of pen makers and didn't even know what a mandrel was or what it looked like. Had no idea what CA was or BLO so I can see the need for something like this among beginners also handy for more advanced pen makers. Go for it. :2tsup::2tsup:
I think its a great idea also. When I started I was told that the slimline used a Parker refill,
later to find out it uses a Cross. In all the Pen turning books I've read not one shows the different types of refills or explains it. Go for it.:2tsup:

[edblysard]

Okay then,
I will start it off here, and if this is usable, then move it to a permanent post.
These are machine arbors, commonly refered to as Morse Tapers, (MT)also known as a machine taper.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/IMG_1400.jpg
Shown above are two of the three most common sized most of you will encounter, a number 2MT on the left, and a number 3 MT on the right.
Not shown is a number 1.
Machine tapers run from #1 to #7, the larger the number, the bigger the arbor/taper.
There is a #0, but unless you are a jewler, you will never see one of those.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/IMG_1401.jpg
Note that the small end of these two are different.
The left, #2MT, has a flat end, which has a 1/4" x18 threaded hole bored into it.
This hole facilitates a draw bolt, used to hold the taper/arbor in a spinning head stock drive shaft.
The #3 on the right has a tang end, this end is most commonly found in arbors used in drill presses and milling machines, the tang locks into a slot in the drive shaft.
Both sizes come both ways, so check that the one you purchase are flat bottomed, the tang can cause problems with most lathes, although it is needed in drill presses.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/IMG_1402.jpg
Shown above are some of the most common uses for MT arbors, all 3 of these are #2MT, the most common size you will encounter.
Shown are a collet chuck, a keyed Jacobs or drill press chuck, and a key less Jacobs chuck.
Jacobs chuck has become the defacto common name for these style chucks, although Jacobs is also a trade name of a manufactuer ofthese chucks, the keyless chuck shown is made by Jacobs.
The two Morse tappers you will encounter most often in pen turning are the #1MT and #2MT.
The #1 was the standard in home shop lathes for a long time, but has been replaced by the #2MT over the last decade, most of the Mini and Midi and full sized lathes you will use have both the head stock drive shaft and the tail stock feed shaft using the #2MT without a tang.
The most common use for a MT arbor is your pen mandrel and what are know as "centers", both the drive center in the head stock and the center in the tail stock.
Centers will be covered later, I am sure, but there are two basic types, the spur drive center, used to apply the driving force to the stock you are turning, and the tail center, used to apply pressure to the stock against the drive center and provide a pivot point for the work/ stock to spin on.
Two most common tail stock centers are a dead center, which is a solid piece most often used in metal work, and live center, which has bearings and spins freely while applying pressure to the work piece.
If you are unsure of which MT your lathe uses, the number will be listed in the owners manual in the specification section, but again, for almost all new wood lathes, Jet, Delta, VicMark, Rikon, Powermatic, Oneway and such, is is a safe bet it is a #2MT in both the head stock and tail stock.
Most home shop drill presses will use a #2MT arbor with a tang.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper
This link covers most machine tapers, and the history on Stephen Morse who invented this method on attaching tools to lathes and drill presses.

[plantagenon]

Thata a great start Ed. Sorry about the delay in replying; I have not been in range of my computer for a couple of days. I think photos with a description is the best way of presenting the items.

In terms of preparation of a dictionary, I need some advice from one of the moderators as to how it can be placed in the tutorial section. As it needs some order in putting it together, I am happy for anyone interested to email me their contributions and I will put them in alphabetic order into a single document that can then be posted on the forum. Obviously a few drafts on the thread first would not go astray so that we can get input from others.

I am happy for any thoughts.

Greg

[edblysard]

To continue with centers...
Centers are used to both drive the work piece from the headstock side, and to support the work piece and provide driving pressure from the tail stock crank.
Centers are either a drive center, or a dead center.
Most drive centers are variants of the spur drive, and tailstock centers, also know as dead centers, fit into two categories, live centers, (with a bearing that allows it to spin) and dead or solid centers, just as the name implies, it does not spin.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/IMG_1409.jpg
Shown here are 7 of the most common centers, all are MT2 taper except the far left one, which is a center drive insert, designed to be used in conjunction with the jaws of a 4 jaw chuck, this allow the turner to switch from turning flat work to spindle work without having to remove the chuck..
From the left, a drive center insert, shown below so you can see the part that is grasped by a set of chuck jaws, which drive the center instead of a MT2 taper.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/IMG_1406.jpg
second from the left is a spur drive center, most midi and mini lathes come with this one as standard, it is a general purpose center.
3rd from left is toothed drive center, with a spring loaded center point, this is designed to allow releasing drive tension with the tail stock crank, and removing the turning with the lathe still in operation, inserting a stock work piece with a pre-drilled center pilot on the spring loaded point, then tightening the tailstock back up allows production turning on a fast pace.
4th is a replacement spur drive center, along the lines of the standard one that comes with lathes, but the spur is thinner in diameter than standard, this allows for it to fit into recesses if needed..
5th is larger version spur drive, you would use this to turn heavier and longer, more bulky stock.
Both 4 and 5 have replacable center points, held in place by a set, or grub screw, you can see the screw in the photo.
6 and 7 are both live centers, they fit the tailstock and provide support to the end of the work piece, for pen turners they also provide the pressure to seat the mandrel taper in the headstock and drive the mandrel. the 6th one comes stock with most mini and midi lathes, the 7th is a 60 degree cone nose live center replacement, both of these have bearings in them that allow the cone part to spin freely, greatly reducing noise and wear on the mandrel.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/IMG_1421.jpg
Next to last photo is a dead center, it is a solid piece of high strength steel it is also a standard item that comes with a lot of mini or midi lathes,it fits in the tailstock and is used most often for metal turning, but as it is a #2MT, it will fit in the head stock and can be used in conjunction with a live cone center in the tailstock and allow you can drive a pen blank as shown.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/IMG_1422.jpg
Several member have made up special bushings to accomidate this practice, there is a tutiorial and a few threads that cover this.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/edblysard/IMG_1416.jpg
Above is a standard #2MT mandrel, which for most pen turners replaces the drive center, the dead or tail stock center fits up against the right end and provides pressure against the the #2MT to drive the mandrel, hence most pen turners will use a live cone center in the tailstock, as the bearing reduces friction, extendes the life of the mandrel and is much more quite, plus it needs no lubrication as a solid or dead center would.