View Full Version : Sierra/Wall Street mod

28th Apr 2012, 12:38 PM
Ok, gonna post a complete start to finish "tutorial" on modifying the Sierra.
One thing to note, the "New" kits are assembled differently than the old kits, which is what was shown in the previous thread.
The major difference is that the nib is held into the nose cone in a tube, instead of the compression ferruel, and this tube is pressed into the center band, so ...
The following photos and discriptions are based on this, but easily adapted to the old kits.
You can tell the difference between the two kits by the length of the center band ferruel and the transmission, which on the new kits is the long transmission.
So, to begin...
The new kits, note the long transmission.
The parts you will modify and replace the black portions with your choice of material.
Note the short shoulder on the center band where the kits tube will ride, the old kits have a long shoulder, the new kits are short.
First, measure the parts you will replace. (learned that the hard way)
Using a steel rod or punch, press the nib out of the nose cone.
I am showing two ways to do this, either with a pen press or..
Chuck it up and use your tail stock and a suitable taper, or a jacobs chuck, you can be creative here, you may be able to simply hold the nose cone with your hand and whack the rod with a mallet and pop it out.

28th Apr 2012, 01:21 PM
I am doing this in a few posts because I dont want to jam up the server here.
End result of dissassembly.
Here is where I should have looked at the inside of the nose cone instead of assuming it was the same as the old kits.
As Neil noted in the other thread, a tube through the nose cone would help the mod a lot, and surprise, thats exactly what the manufacturer did, but I just assumed it was the same and cut the nose cone off....
only to discover the hard way that, once the nib is out, you can grab the black metal cone and pull if off easily, which would have left you with something that almost looked like..
I salvaged the remaining piece of tube, and used it. Note I have already turned the shoulder down to the 9.7mm needed.
Take the rod or punch, and knock the cap off the top clip, you will note the only thing that hold material on here is the cap, it presses OVER the shaft of the hardware.
This cap is ...
9.45 mm, and the shoulder on the clip hardware will have to be turned down to that diameter, although I end up turning it to 9.7mm.
More on that later, this first part is about the nose cone mod.
The pointers on the caliper are resting on the shoulder from the center ferrule, this is the shoulder you will need to turn down.
Keep in mind if you dissasemble the kit properly, you will have a brass tube sticking out of this,(the remains of which you can see sticking out to the right) which will help you, chuck up the ferrule and use the brass tube by using your live cone center in that end to prevent wobble and either use a parting tool or a file and reduce this shoulder to 9.7mm.
You will end up with something that looks like the one of the right.
Cut your replacement material to length now. if you are going to use a drill press to drill your holes...(I dont, I turn the blank round and drill on the lathe, but this is up to you.
If you do the drill press method, you must be able to drill at perfect right angles to the material, and what you use to cut the blanks must make smooth, true cuts. I am using scrap walnut here as photo props, this pen will be acrylic.
For those of you who prefer to turn between centers, mount and turn your replacement part.
For those of you who like turning on a mandrel, you need to make up bushings.
The right bushing is 7.6mm where it fits the material, the left one is 9.7..the OD of the center ferrule is 12mm, the nose nib OD is 8.15, manufacture you bushing accordingly.
The end result.
We will do the top or cap tomorrow or the day after.
Notes to remember..
If you do acrylic, it would pay to paint the tube and shoulder on the nib and the center ferrule, at these thin dimensions, it becomes translucent.
Measure, measure and then measure again, and write it down!
Have all your drill bits on hand and seperate from all others...nothing makes a project more frustrating than having to stop and hunt for a drill bit or tool.
Drills needed, or at least the ones I used...
7.6mm for the through hole in the nose, and 9.7mm for the counter sunk hole where the center ferrule shoulder will fit.
Measure this depth and drill the 9.7mm hole only as deep as needed.
If you use a parting tool to remove the metal or reduce the shoulder, make sure it is sharp...I prefer a bastard file, it allows for more precise removal.
If you are not used to working close to the chuck, you may want to have a friend with a metal lathe do the metal mods.
Warning, never use a file on a lathe unless the file has a handle on it, odds are it will never happen to you, but if you manage to get the file kicked back by the lathe, it can poke a really deep and painful hole in your hand, stomach, arm, forehead and other necessary body parts.
Also, always wear a face shield or goggles, at the least safey glasses.

28th Apr 2012, 01:30 PM

Thanks for tsaking the time to give us an insight to your approach to redesigning a kit pen. It opens a whole lot of possibilities. That is what you call thinking outside the box. Great job all around. Thanks for sharing.

28th Apr 2012, 01:55 PM
to clairfy the bushings...additional edit...the ID on the left or large bushing should be 9.7mm, not 9.5.

28th Apr 2012, 03:31 PM
Well done Ed :) that is really sharing the techniques needed for this modification ,cheers ~ John :2tsup::2tsup:

28th Apr 2012, 04:31 PM
I hope this is ok with edblysard but I liked his tutorial on the Siera/Wall street modification and have been a little bored this afternoon so I decided to turn it into a PDF so we could all keep the tutorial for later use. I hope this is ok with edblysard if not please get the moderators to delete it.

Cheers Ian

28th Apr 2012, 09:10 PM
Its more than OK, its what I was looking for someone to do, thanks!
Will do the top part soon...

dai sensei
28th Apr 2012, 09:23 PM
All very interesting and just makes me want to try it.

Once you have finished Ed, it would be a good idea to add to the tutorials sub-forum.

28th Apr 2012, 09:36 PM
ok Thanks Ed that's no problem I will have a crack at the Top part once you have added it and the rest is up to you Neil.

Cheers Ian

29th Apr 2012, 10:01 AM
Great tutorial. look forward to seeing the next step:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

29th Apr 2012, 12:20 PM
Well then, here it is...
You have already dissassembled the cap, so simply measure the replacement material, and drill a 9.7mm hole through and thorugh.
As shown, the cap is 9.45 to 9.5mm...because every digital caliper I have ever seen has a small degree of error, I go a tad over size on my drill sizes.

My WIxey digital says 9.5, my old Product Engineering caliper says 9.7mm, my micrometer says, (after the math conversion) 9.65, so I drilled a 9.7 mm hole!
The material is 15 mm in length, even though the original parts length measures 14.95. something, the something makes no difference.

As you can see, the clip fits between the jaws, and chucking this up is easy, even with a 4 jaw chuck.
The tool is pointed at the shoulder you need to turn down to 9.7mm.
You can go a tad undersized and not worry, the cap is what hold it all together, this shoulder simply keeps the shell from wiggling back and forth.
The nose you did yesterday, the barrel which you do just like normal,and the cap.
Note I painted the hardware because the shiney hardware will show through if you dont.
With wood of course, this is not necessary.
I also painted the inside of the replacement part for good measure, as this part is real thin at the cap end.
Material is acrylic, called Orange Cream.
Final product after placing the replacement part on the top ferrule and pressing on the retaining cap.
Note the left over piece of acrylic, this mod uses less than a whole blank...if your sneakey and a detail freak, you take a little care and make sure the replacement parts are cut in order so the pattern lines up.
A few hints to finish...
Never use a caliper on a part spinning in a lathe.
If you do, I have a question for you...Can I have your lathe after?:C
It will catch and be flung back into your face.
Instead, cheat.
Because you are using drill bits to bore holes, and no matter who makes the bit, they are often a few thousands off from what they are marked...make a set of witness rings.
Take a scrap piece of wood or acrylic, drill a hole in it using the bit you will use for the mod, and once you have turned your part down close, you can simply keep turning and testing the hole in the scrap till the scrap/witness ring fits the part you are turning.
No need to stop and measure all the time, simply turn to fit.
If you have ever turned a European twist pen, you have used a witness ring to make the tennon for the center band.
Same concept here, you are doing nothing more complicated than turning a tennon.
Mark the witness rings and put them away where you can never find them again.
With the new kits that have the tube in the nose cone, the nib, once presses back in place after replacing the material, is all that is needed to hold the nose cone in place, so if you are working in wood, and you have the skill/nerve, you may not have to turn the center ferrule shoulder down, but you will be turning a part that is quite thin there...if you choose to turn this shoulder down, you can choose your diameter to match the drill bit you choose to counter sink the new cone.
I went with 9.7 this time because thats the size I used on the top cap.
If you are working in acrylic, it will become so transparent here you have no choice but to turn the shoulder.
These are all the tools needed to do the mod except the lathe and cutting tools.
You can make the bushings out of scrap acrylic, wood, corian or like me, use old worn out bushings and re task them!
Between center turners of course need not worry about that.
In the above photo the drill bits are from bottom to top,
7.6mm, 9.7mm and the 27/64 for the stock tube, plus a digital caliper and a good rule.
You already have the rest, simply use your imagination.
I would suggest that for the first time out, you practice on a basic hardwood, and simply make the parts, keep practicing till your satisified with your results, then move on to the "good" stuff and assemble the pen.
The only place glue is needed is in the stock tube, everything else is held in place by the nib pressed in the nose cone, and the cap pressed on the top clip ferrule.
Good luck, hope to see pens that put this one to shame!:U

29th Apr 2012, 01:32 PM
OK Give me an hour or so and I will try and turn it into PDF.

Cheers Ian

29th Apr 2012, 02:01 PM

Thankyou for your clarity of thought, your selfless help for us, the tips and consistency.

I have been preaching forever take your calipers with you when you buy your drills I get one that goes close one over and one under size often as different materials drill differently.

Also I had an adapter made for my woodlathe to enable me to use a small spare Hercus 3 jaw chuck. Ok I do use the Hercus and Taig and Collets as well.

Good honest homespun sense in your dissertation, an asset to this site.

Kind regards Peter.:o:2tsup:

29th Apr 2012, 02:07 PM
Thanks Ian...I can't do PDF, PDQs or much beyond turn the silly machine on, so any help "cleaning up" the thread would work too.
OK Give me an hour or so and I will try and turn it into PDF.

Cheers Ian

29th Apr 2012, 02:13 PM
I take my calipers everwhere I go to buy cutting/drilling tools.
For me, I am lucky enough to live close to a oil field machine shop supply house, the drills I get are wicked precise, but I still check them...the witness ring trick has been around for a long time, I see it in all the old, (1930/40ish) instructional teaching books I own, but havent seen it in modern books, but it works great, you end up matching the part precisely to the drill that way.
And I refuse to buy a die that isnt adjustable, you never know when you will need to close it down or open it up a thousandths, saved a few projects that way!.

29th Apr 2012, 03:19 PM
Well Everyone Here is part 2 of Edblysards Siera/Wall Street modification. I hope it does the job.

Cheers Ian

29th Apr 2012, 11:03 PM
This was the pen that brought me to this site

Great job

30th Apr 2012, 12:02 AM
Welcome aboard ,apple320 :) A liitle digging around here and who knows what might turn up hehe ,it's all about sharing our addiction lol, cheers ~ John

5th May 2012, 07:56 AM
Picked up another WallStreet II, (Sierria) and as I suspected, the nib on the nose cone can be removed simply by inserting a 1/4" rod, holding the nose cone assembly in you hand and whacking the rod with a scrap piece of wood, the nib simply pops out, and the black nose cone can be wiggled off the center ferrule, it is no longer glued on, the nib holds it in place.
With the tube that is pressed into the ferrule, it is much more easy to chuck up the ferrule and support the end with a live center, and turn the ferrule shoulder down.


9th Jun 2012, 12:20 AM
Hello there, I am new to this forum, I would like to say excellent tutorial for the sierra pen. This has been extremely helpfull in making my own mods to sierra's

9th Jun 2012, 12:51 AM
Welcome aboard Hobo, you won't find a friendlier and more helpful bunch than right here :) If you are into advanced mods like the sierra ones you mentioned you must be well on the addicted path hehe, feel free to ask and show your work , Cheers ~ John :D

9th Jun 2012, 11:16 PM
Thanks for the welcome, I wouldn't say I am advanced or experienced, lets just say I have an enquiring(?) mind and often like to change/ improve things a bit. The sierra's are generally nice kits and easy to turn but I got a little bored by them so had to try to modify. I tried the celtic knots but my cutting was not accurate enough so I took a kit to bits and did something similar to Ed's classy example. I would post an example but I am not what would classed as computer literate, I can switchit on and thats about it.:)

16th Jun 2012, 03:45 PM
Thanks to Dorno for pointing this one out a real nice kit having seen the one he got off edblysard.

Ian will you be doing a 3rd pdf with the latest instructions??

Or are you worn out from all your mid night swims:;

Richard Hodsdon
22nd Aug 2019, 08:22 PM
Are the PDF's still available ?

26th Aug 2019, 07:03 AM
Are the PDF's still available ?
I'd also like to know....

3rd Mar 2020, 08:12 AM
I'd also like to know if the PDF is still available. I've made several Sierra pens and intend to attempt this. An incredable tutorial.