Liogier 4th May 2012, 07:55 AM I am often asked to explain how to properly use a rasp.
Rather than a long and tedious speech, I had the idea to film as an example a cabinetmaker working near my workshop, doing a "deer foot" for a cabinet.
How to use a hand-stitched rasp on wood - example # 1 in furniture making - YouTube
bookend 4th May 2012, 11:03 PM Thank you for making and posting this. I for one, had forgotten how useful files and rasps are in the workshop and the level of control they give in comparison to chisels on cranky timber.
Thanks for the reminder.
_fly_ 4th May 2012, 11:11 PM I was always told NOT to drag the rasp over the work surface on the backstroke.
Push over the wood, Lift and bring back for next stroke not touching.
Does dragging backwards cause the rasp to blunten faster or not?
Liogier 5th May 2012, 02:13 AM I was always told NOT to drag the rasp over the work surface on the backstroke.
Push over the wood, Lift and bring back for next stroke not touching.
Does dragging backwards cause the rasp to blunten faster or not?
Even though I claim to produce the best rasps, I am surely not the best rasp-user. :U
But still I will try answer your question by a question : how can you do differently than dragging backwards (without pressure) and still have an efficient and confortable work with good control of the rasp ?
rustynail 6th May 2012, 07:17 PM Back stroke clears the fibres from the teeth.
artme 6th May 2012, 10:02 PM Great post!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:
I will NOT post any photos of my rasp work for comparison!:D
Astrodog 7th May 2012, 12:04 AM Nice.... if a picture says a thousand words, a video must say a million.....
ian 7th May 2012, 10:54 PM Thank you for posting that video
How did you persuade Gilles to demonstrate for you?
For those that missed the credit, Gilles' web site is Gilles Grangeon ébéniste créateur contemporain, Rhône Alpes Auvergne - Haute-Loire. Réalisations (http://www.gilles-grangeon-ebeniste.fr/accueil/realisations/)
if you don't read French, and I don't, you'll need to get your browser to do the translation
Robson Valley 12th May 2012, 10:27 AM Pretend you're using a hand plane = only works on the forward stroke. Go easy, let the tool do the work. Plus, at maybe the equivalent of 4-grit paper, the scratches are a booger to sand out. For wood carving, rasps are a dream for shaping because I can go back into the wood with mallet & gouges without the worry of hitting a sand grain (no, I don't enjoy sharpening quite that much).
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