Question: fixing handles to threaded rod?

[paul.cleary]

Hi,
this is not a hint/tip but a request for advice.
I have a 14" bandsaw with the standard threaded tension adjusting rod. I have swopped out this rod for a length of stainless steel 10mm threaded rod and I want to put a wider knob on the top of the rod so it is easier to turn.

I have a threaded knob that fits onto the rod - what is the best design/method/way to fix the knob onto the top of the rod so that it turns the rod, but does not rotate on the thread? It will need to be quite tough to standup to the rotating turning pressure for high tension settings of the bandsaw blade; at the same time I don't want to weaken the rod too much in case it breaks.

All previous experiences welcomed as I am sure this is a common problem when making jigs.
Thanks
Paul

[Termite]

I generaly use what is known as a roll pin or "selock"pin. This is a hollow pin with a slit down the side that allows it to be driven into a slightly undersize hole. So drill handle and rod and drive in a pin.

[Rocker]

Another simpler way, which works fine for me, is to tighten a nut against the knob tightly enough to prevent the knob rotating on the thread.

Rocker

[Toggy]

Can also use loctite "shaftlock"??. It's designed to hold a gear to a shaft. Once it sets up almost impossible to release.

Ken

[beejay1]

Id go with Rocker's suggestion and loctite the nut, nothing will move it and it takes seconds to do.

beejay1

http://community.webshots.com/user/eunos9

[paul.cleary]

Hi,
thanks to all who replied. I readup on "Loctite Threadlocker" (which comes in around 10+ varieties) and what I will do is loctite a nut below the knob and a nut above the knob so it is fixed in place.
The interesting thing is that Loctite will NOT work if both the nut and the threaded rod are stainless steel - the nut must be an ordinary steel nut.
If that fails, then I will go to the "drill a hole and insert a pin" option.
Paul

[barnsey]

Paul,

As an engineering student (have been for 40 odd years) my own experience is that you always give yourself a way back in the process. The roll pin option gives you that (move and redrill) the really strong locktite option may eliminate that option.

Besides using a steel nut in that situation - depending where you are will probably do a better job of locking it through corrosion than just the locktite :eek:

Your call on how permanent you think your mod might be? :cool: