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torchwood
8th August 2012, 07:54 PM
Hi all, Would anyone know how to prevent your chuck screw from jamming up against the bowl face? Sometimes if you have finished the bottom of a bowl and polished it up, you can hardly grip it to unscrew it off the chuck screw to turn it around. Thanks Harry

smiife
8th August 2012, 08:02 PM
hi harry,
don't know if it would help but how about putting
a washer on the screw before tighting it right up,
also if a but tight i normally put the end of the screw
in the vice and just twist it off !!!
hope this helps:U:U
cheers smiife:2tsup:

powderpost
8th August 2012, 08:44 PM
When you mount the bowl blank, do not over tighten it, "hand" firm is enough. Another common problem is using blunt chisels and a heavy handed approach.
Usually I only use a screw chuck on the hollow side of a bowl and turn the back of the bowl. I then leave a recess that takes a scroll chuck or glue the half finished bowl to a waste block fitted to a face plate for finishing.
Jim

BamBam53
8th August 2012, 09:18 PM
You could try a bit of bee's wax on the screw thread and the face of the chuck jaws.

angryranga
9th August 2012, 07:24 AM
Can't say I have ever had this problem Harry, definately sounds like you are doing it up too tight, also are you locking your spindle when trying to undo it while mounted on the lathe.

Tim the Timber Turner
9th August 2012, 10:22 AM
A decent dig in will tighten up the blank on the screw.

I lock the spindle and use 2 hands to undo.

Cheers

Tim:)

torchwood
9th August 2012, 10:25 AM
Hi, thanks for the answers, I'll try all the suggestions. I don't initially screw it tight but everytime the chisel touches the wood it tightens it up a little more I guess.

Osbojo
9th August 2012, 11:40 AM
Totally agree with BamBam, a little beeswax on the thread is the go.

chuck1
10th August 2012, 08:14 PM
I use 4mm craftwood disc bettween job and chuck.

tea lady
10th August 2012, 08:28 PM
Prolly having it too loose to start with. Counter intuative I know. But if its loose and you have a catch it can blast its way on harder than you can twist it. A bit like having the chuck loose and it shocking itself onto the spindle when you turn the lathe on. You can end up spending hours trying to get it off again. Do the bowl up as tight as possible and it can't go on any further when/if you have a catch. (If it is soft wood doing it up tight will strip the thread so you prolly need to use a few screws around the face plate instead. )

If you can't get a grip lick your hand so its a bit damp and you should be able to get enough traction. :cool:

hughie
11th August 2012, 10:38 AM
[When you mount the bowl blank, do not over tighten it, "hand" firm is enough. Another common problem is using blunt chisels and a heavy handed approach.



Sound advice, things on your lathe in general dont need to be banged up tight. :o A lot of folks are heavy handed and all that does is add to thier woes.

Screw chucks in the past when I have turned larger objects that I do now ie 12-18" .There was a tendancy to over tighten as the job progressed and so I used to use a belt like a strap spanner or wrench etc

tea lady
11th August 2012, 11:30 AM
so I used to use a belt like a strap spanner or wrench etcOooh1 That's an interesting thing. :pi: Its amazing how many things on a lathe don't have flats on them so you can use a spanner. That's if you had a spanner that big. doh: And it would hold batter than a tommy bar. :cool:

NeilS
11th August 2012, 11:43 AM
Agreed, if elbow grease isn't enough, use any old wax you have to hand on chuck and faceplate screws. The dried out stuff in the bottom of wax pots will still do the trick. Also inhibits corrosion on your screws when working with green/wet wood.

The advantage of using faceplates over a chuck&screw combo (I use both, depending on the size of the blank) is that peripheral screws prevent the central screw from binding onto the blank (as TL has pointed out) and if you have misjudged it and only used the central screw on too larger a blank, and can't budge it by hand, you can always remove the lot from the lathe and apply a large shifter spanner to the flats on the back of the faceplate. That always works!

Sturdee
11th August 2012, 04:30 PM
Oooh1 That's an interesting thing. :pi: Its amazing how many things on a lathe don't have flats on them so you can use a spanner. That's if you had a spanner that big. doh: And it would hold batter than a tommy bar. :cool:

If it hasn't got a hole for a tommy bar or flats for a spanner then I grind flats on them with an angle grinder using the 1mm cut of blades.

I also have a collection of old oversize spanners that I adapted to make fit and then put a wooden handle on them, makes removing chucks and face plates a breeze.


Peter.

NCPaladin
13th August 2012, 02:53 AM
A short section of old candle works well also. Before mounting the blank turn on the lathe and press the candle to the screw until it starts melting. Of course you can give an immediate swipe with the candle to the top of your tool rest to slick it up while it is still in your hand.

tea lady
13th August 2012, 11:53 AM
If it hasn't got a hole for a tommy bar or flats for a spanner then I grind flats on them with an angle grinder using the 1mm cut of blades.

I also have a collection of old oversize spanners that I adapted to make fit and then put a wooden handle on them, makes removing chucks and face plates a breeze.


Peter.Yes. But I'm sure this strap thing is much cheaper than purchasing a b*&^)y big spanner, a grinder and the cut off blades. And it fits all sizes. :cool:

Sturdee
13th August 2012, 11:26 PM
Yes. But I'm sure this strap thing is much cheaper than purchasing a b*&^)y big spanner, a grinder and the cut off blades. And it fits all sizes. :cool:

If you had to buy the angle grinders and cut of blades just for that, yes the strappy thing might be cheaper, but are often found in most workshops. :D


Peter.

issatree
14th August 2012, 02:39 AM
Hi All,
Although I don't turn many Bowls or Platters, the way I've seen it done & I also done it, is to open the Chuck up a bit. You should already have a Centre Mark that is to be the Outside. You then Jam the Wood up against the Chuck with the Tail Stock, + make it nice & tight. Preferably, the Live Centre should be of the Ring & Cone sort, as just a Cone may Split the Wood.
Now all you do is to turn the Speed down around 1000 RPM. or slower if you wish, & either use a Parting Tool for a Hole or a Spigot for the Chuck to Hold.
I would not have used a Screw for some 15 years, & do not intend to, as most time you can work out How To Use Your Chuck.
One of the reasons I don't use Screws is I don't own any 50mm Jaws, as I use 35 - 45mm Spigot Jaws.

daryl1
14th August 2012, 07:40 AM
The belt like strap that Hughie mentioned in the photo is called a Boa. They are available from Bunnings. They work well and don't leave any marks as thebstrapmis hard rubber or similar.

robyn2839
14th August 2012, 08:45 AM
why not use a faceplate ring screwed into the waste side of the bowl,much easier .............bob

issatree
14th August 2012, 10:37 AM
Hi Again,
As Robyn says, The Ring, so much easier, & most likely a little safer than the way I mentioned, for slightly Less Skilled Turners.

I'm not trying to be funny, but they are all out there. The more you do, the better you get.

In Sept. Fri.19th. - Sun.21st. 2012, at Cowes, Vic. we have a Turning Do, " Down Under Turn Around " Approx. 130 People, with something like 75 Lathes & it is Go All Weekend.

If you want to learn from some of the Top Rating Turners, this is the place to be, & all you have to do is ASK.
A Few of these Turners are International Turners, & are only to pleased to help you out for the sake of Woodturning.

NeilS
16th August 2012, 10:00 AM
why not use a faceplate ring screwed into the waste side of the bowl,much easier .............bob

Yes, Bob, the rings are good for larger pieces, but a centre screw is much quicker to use on small to medium sized blanks, provided the blank also comes off the screw just as quickly...:D

PS - I like using the Woodfast 85mm Screw Point Chuck for smaller blanks, but I keep snapping the screw points and have to buy the replacement screws in bulk. Getting the temper just right for all users is a challenge; too hard and they snap, too soft and they bend. Anyone found another source of screw points that fit those chucks?

tea lady
16th August 2012, 05:28 PM
Chuck for smaller blanks, but I keep snapping the screw points and have to buy the replacement screws in bulk. :think: Snapped one off myself early on the learning curve. I think I drilled the hole a bit small and had to screw it too hard into a jarrah bowl blank. A tighter fit in softer woods is OK! :shrug: I think also if it is not tightened enough onto the screw so it is hard up against the face plate it is putting stress onto the scew that would cause it to snap eventually. Just theorizing of course.

Tim the Timber Turner
16th August 2012, 06:11 PM
I wouldn't mind a dollar for every screw Woodfast has sold as a spare part in the last 25 years..

One workaround is a Glaser screw thread. These have a stainless steel, square shoulder, parallel thread.
They are unbreakable, Well!! I have never broken one and I have been known to be hard on my gear.
They won’t fit into the Woodfast faceplate but can be fitted to a solid faceplate with a bit of engineering.

Gary Pye used to sell these when he sold Glaser tools.

Vicmarc use this screw thread in their 3 in 1 screw chuck.

The Glaser thread is simply the best there is for a screw chuck.:2tsup:

Cheers

Tim:)

RETIRED
16th August 2012, 08:46 PM
I wouldn't mind a dollar for every screw Woodfast has sold as a spare part in the last 25 years..

One workaround is a Glaser screw thread. These have a stainless steel, square shoulder, parallel thread.
They are unbreakable, Well!! I have never broken one and I have been known to be hard on my gear.
They won’t fit into the Woodfast faceplate but can be fitted to a solid faceplate with a bit of engineering.

Gary Pye used to sell these when he sold Glaser tools.

Vicmarc use this screw thread in their 3 in 1 screw chuck.

The Glaser thread is simply the best there is for a screw chuck.:2tsup:

Cheers

Tim:)I have a Woodfast that I haven't broken in 3-4 years.

I have to agree with Tim, the Glaser of which I have a couple are it and a bit. 25 years on and still going strong. :2tsup:

Acco
16th August 2012, 08:54 PM
I have to agree with Tim,

Had to enlarge that as I couldn't read it :U:q

powderpost
16th August 2012, 08:58 PM
Have used the woodfast screw chuck system for about 20 years, haven't had the pleasure of breaking one yet. Lost a few in the clean up though. Good enough reason not to clean up??? :wink::D They originally came with the "Super chuck" and was necessary to bore the correct sized hole... 1/4".
Jim

Tim the Timber Turner
16th August 2012, 09:16 PM
I have to agree with Tim,

Jees , that must have hurt a bit:D:o

Cheers

Tim:)

RETIRED
16th August 2012, 09:43 PM
Jees , that must have hurt a bit:D:o

Cheers

Tim:)It did, mate. it did.:D

issatree
16th August 2012, 09:48 PM
[QUOTE=issatree;1535842]Hi Again,
As Robyn says, The Ring, so much easier, & most likely a little safer than the way I mentioned, for slightly Less Skilled Turners.

I'm not trying to be funny, but they are all out there. The more you do, the better you get.

In Sept. Fri.7th. - Sun.9th. 2012, at Cowes, Vic. we have a Turning Do, " Down Under Turn Around " Approx. 130 People, with something like 75 Lathes & it is Go All Weekend.

If you want to learn from some of the Top Rating Turners, this is the place to be, & all you have to do is ASK.
A Few of these Turners are International Turners, & are only to pleased to help you out for the sake of Woodturning.

Made a bad mistake, as I put the wrong dated in.
I've got it right now.

issatree
16th August 2012, 10:07 PM
Hi All Again,
I almost forgot the other one I have.
It Screws onto my 1in. - 10 TPI. Spindle Head & is in Imperial Size of 1in. thick & is 2½ in. long, but has a Flat on it which takes a small length of, & I have used, a 3in. Nail, but you have of course to cut the Head off.
So the Nail sits on the Flat, push the Wood onto the Pin? & Twist, & there it stays.
To Undo, just Twist in Reverse.

Most Likely the Best Of the Bunch.

Sturdee
16th August 2012, 10:41 PM
Hi All Again,
I almost forgot the other one I have.
It Screws onto my 1in. - 10 TPI. Spindle Head & is in Imperial Size of 1in. thick & is 2½ in. long, but has a Flat on it which takes a small length of, & I have used, a 3in. Nail, but you have of course to cut the Head off.
So the Nail sits on the Flat, push the Wood onto the Pin? & Twist, & there it stays.
To Undo, just Twist in Reverse.

Most Likely the Best Of the Bunch.

That would be a pin chuck. Heard about them but haven't got one, where did you get it from.

Peter.

issatree
17th August 2012, 12:43 PM
Hi Peter,
Thank you for the right Name of it. Couldn't for the life of me think what it was called.
Well a Friend was having a clean out & I was in the right place at the right time, & it was a gift.
As it happens I have to do a bowl, for the Geelong Agricultural Show Entries, so I will use it on that. I was lucky, as it just happened to be 1in. - 10 TPI.
Look I'm Thinking, if you found a good Metal Turner, he could quite easily make you one.

Tim the Timber Turner
17th August 2012, 01:03 PM
I think the pin chuck was the worst bit kit of that I ever owned.:yucky:

When stopping the lathe with a large blank on the pin chuck, the pin would relocate to a different position in the hole. This caused the blank to move out of round by just enough to be a pain. This problem was worse in wet timber when the pin would bite deeper.

The Woodfast screwed pin chuck was a much better option.

Cheers

Tim:)

NeilS
17th August 2012, 01:41 PM
Thanks Tim & for the advice on the Glaser Screw (http://www.glaserhitec.com/shop/shopping/glaser-screws/).

Their chuck itself is a bit exy and doesn't come with 30mm thread, but the screw itself would be a cheaper option for me. Just need to figure out how to mount that screw in one of my faceplates. Looks like the screw has a cylindrical shaft that fits into the faceplate and just secured with a grub screw, if so, should be just just a case of some precise boring on a metal lathe.

RETIRED
17th August 2012, 02:18 PM
I think the pin chuck was the worst bit kit of that I ever owned.:yucky:

When stopping the lathe with a large blank on the pin chuck, the pin would relocate to a different position in the hole. This caused the blank to move out of round by just enough to be a pain. This problem was worse in wet timber when the pin would bite deeper.

The Woodfast screwed pin chuck was a much better option.

Cheers

Tim:):shrug:Oh Dear, I agree again. I have 3 of them. Used once.