Gun Cabinet

[smidsy]

Hei Guys,
Anyone here built a gun cabinet, have one or know where I can find pics of one.
I want to upgrade my license and need a cabinet, the Police say it only needs to be 2mm steel so I figure I can make it myself for a lot less than the $300 they cost.

I need to see how the hinges and locking mechanism are designed.

I know it's a big ask but does anyone here have a cabinet and willing to send me some pics - not interested in where you live or what guns you have, just need to see the hinges and lock.
Cheers
Paul

[Kris.Parker1]

Mate, I built mine and it cost me about $160 for the materials (mates rates). I used simple aluminium sheet metal and welded it all together. I also put an ammunition box inside the main cabinet with a separate lock (again I used the sheet metal). There is a bit of work invovled; however, it suited my needs. I then had the whole thing painted by a mate for a carton so I couldn't help you with that side. I will email pictures tonight if you like.

Also, to keep this in the theme of woodwork, I carved some rifle dividers and mounted them on the back as well as routing out a base plate as well.

Cheers

Kris

[smidsy]

Hei Kris,
Pics would be much appreciated, especially of the lock/latch and hinges - check your pm for a direct e-mail.

I was thinking for a self locked ammo box that I would get one of these cheap safes from bunnings and mount that inside.

I was also thinking of lining the outside with thin timber for asthetics - and to hide my strong but ugly welding lol.

The website for the WA cops states 2mm steel so I was thinking I would hunt round the demo yards - maybe a couple of the old wall mounted kero tanks.

Cheers
Paul

[bsrlee]

I believe the NSW Police have a set of instructions & design diagrams on-line for gun safes that covers the hinge requirements, locks, rebates & reinforcing required for Class 'C', "H" & "I" gun cabinets.

A mate wanted/wants me to make him an all-in-one safe for Class A, B & H. IIRC its all 6mm steel plate, 6mm rebate at the back, 6mm rebate at the front for the door with angle iron reinforce, anti-lift plates welded each side of the welded on hinges, 4 lever lock, internal bolts to brick wall or cement floor. 2 or 3mm internal partitions for bolt box & ammo box or a separate lockup for each.

Class B only has to be a locker with 300Kg of cement in the bottom.

WA may not reqiuire as much metal as NSW so check their on-line info, or ring their firearms registry & ask for a pamphlet. If they are not forthcoming, an enquiry to the Ombudsman about why the Police are keeping it secret would shake things up a bit - 'out of print' is not an excuse.

[smidsy]

I downloaded the specs from the WA Police website and they specify 2mm for the cabinet - why they would bother I don't know since I could make something out of timber that would be stronger than 2mm steel.
I'm in the middle of a 350meg download (on a 28k connection) so when this is done I'll check the NSW Police website - their specs on hinges and latches will probably be up to spec or better for WA.

Can anyone tell me what would be a good height to build this sucker, I've got an air rifle atm, I'll probably only get a .22 for club shooting but have no idea what I'll get till I see what's available - I haven't used bigger than an air rifle for 20 years.

Cheers
Paul

[Peter T]

Smidsy, go down to your local secondhand furniture dealer and get yourself an old steel changeroom locker. You should only need to spend $15-$25. The only mods you would need to do is fix at least two hasp and staple fittings and padlocks to suit. Now you can also fix inside it an old ammo box with it's own lock for your ammo and rifle actions. Piece of cake fella!

[Kris.Parker1]

Smidsy,

Sorry, I didn't get a chance to get back to you last night, I will be home alone tonight and won't have anyone nagging me to use the computer. Will forward dimensions and the like for you.

Obviously you want something that is asthetically pleasing as well as practical so I will make sure those photo's are good detail.

As for the safe from bunning, you might find it hard to fit (and or weld) as they are quite heavy, unless you fit it down low. It is a lot easier to make a door, get a couple of hinges and weld them inside on a shelf.

Cheers

Kris

[bsrlee]

Hmmm - Air rifles & .22 RF as 'class A' in NSW & they have been known to accept a 'Brownbilt' steel locker with a few cement bricks in the bottom for ballast as meeting the minimum criteria - no extra locks, welding etc. I can open one with a screwdriver - in fact I had to as the lock came unscrewed :o

2mm =14 ga, so it should be more space efficient than a good hardwood case, even if the wood one might be harder to break into or move. For personal peace of mind (and to stop my goodies being stolen - a good target rifle is expensive) I'd make a frame of 3mm (1/8") angle iron, then weld sheet steel to that.

You can get weld-on hinges from truck equipment suppliers & 'engineering' suppliers. Just weld a bit of 1/4 rod above & below the hinge pin to stop it being driven out & weld a good key lock to the inside of the door then weld a cover plate over where the tounge crosses the gap so they can't get a hacksaw blade in.

I don't think a 'Class A' safe needs the rebates & extra stuff around the door, so don't worry unless you are getting into pistol shooting or collecting machineguns.

[Kris.Parker1]

Smidsy,

Mate, emailed you those pictures last night. Hope they were of some help.

Cheers

Kris

[smidsy]

Hei Kris,
I got the pics last night, they've given an idea of where I need to go - apologies for not replying sooner, I am in the middle of a 350 meg download (on a 28.8 connection) and it is seriously glitching my connection.
Thanks for all the input guys.
Cheers
Paul

[Kris.Parker1]

No worries mate, let me know how you go with it.

Cheers

Kris

[Waldo]

G'day Smidsy,

Let me know if you are still looking for pics and ways of knocking up your gun case and I'll see about getting some photos of mine to you.

My gun case is made of two pieces of "C" channel hinged together and with the locking mechanism inside the case, which is a metal rod that is enclosed within a sleeve. The rod is welded to a tab and to open it's just a matter of sliding up the bolt which runs the height of the cabinet. The rod locks into a hole in the top of the case. Really it works much like a sliding bolt on a gate, the tab is drilled with a hole and when in it's locked position it aligns with a second metal tab, also with a hole to lock with a great big padlock.

The added benefit of making the case out of "C: channel is that it is lipped which means there are no easily accessed points in which to try and force open the case.

Hope this all makes sence, let me know if you want anything further.