Source for spindle tap in Australia?

[michael_m]

Hi all, I'm looking to get a tap to match my lathe's spindle thread; either the Beall Spindle tap, the Lee Valley one, or similar. My lathe is 1" - 8tpi. I have a few online/overseas sources, all around the same price, but was wondering if anyone knew of an australian supplier/retailer of these?

I've tried McJing, but they only have 1" - 10tpi.

Many thanks, Mike

[pommyphil]

Hi Mike 1" X 8 tpi is whitworth, Plenty of taps around. If you have problems I'm sure I have one ( and a die nut ) left over from my old MC 1100.

Cheers Phil

[robbygard]

i got one from the "bolt barn" ... blackwoods would be another distinct possibility ... don't forget you need a bottoming tap

regards david

[Chief Tiff]

Hi Mike 1" X 8 tpi is whitworth

1" X 8 TPI is also a Unified Coarse thread; I'd be very surprised if your lathe uses Whitworth threads and as Beall and LV are US brands they'll be almost certainly UNC. The civilised world got rid of Whitworth decades ago, it only really still exists in specialised forms such as BSP threads and camera mounts. Why Australia clings onto it I've no idea....

Any decent tool shop will be able to order taps in for you, but as they'll be designed for cutting threads in steel they'll be rather dear. The Beall/LV ones will likely be a lesser grade of HSS, or maybe even carbon steel as they are only needed for cutting into wood. I'd suggest trawling round the Oz woodturning suppliers like Carbatec, CWS, GPS and Turning 43 to see if they import the US ones. If no-one imports them then I'd suggest going straight to the source.

You can always try making one yourself; all you need are a couple of decent quality bolts and an angle grinder. I've had to make a few as a "get you out of the poo" dodge a few times over the years for cleaning damaged threads, or cutting new ones in non-ferrous materials.

[michael_m]

Thanks guys, I will try those sources first; the overseas costs run at $26 (from shanghai) to $29 (from LV) including postage, so anything in that ballpark I will be looking for.

I hadn't thought if it were whitworth or UNC; I assume Nova chuck inserts for 1x8tpi are UNC? David, would I need a bottoming tap as well, if all I am doing is tapping through-holes?

Many thanks, Mike

[Paul39]

Thanks guys, I will try those sources first; the overseas costs run at $26 (from shanghai) to $29 (from LV) including postage, so anything in that ballpark I will be looking for.

I hadn't thought if it were whitworth or UNC; I assume Nova chuck inserts for 1x8tpi are UNC? David, would I need a bottoming tap as well, if all I am doing is tapping through-holes?Many thanks, Mike

For through holes you would not need a bottoming tap. If you are making what you propose to thread on the lathe, use the tail stock to drill the hole and then start the tap using the point of the tail stock center in the centering hole in the back of the tap. Run it in 3 - 4 threads and then take it out if needed to run through.

I f you are working on a drill press, make a rod with a 60 degree point to go in the chuck to start the tap.

[hughie]

Try Ebay or Google, and you will note that BSW and UNC have the same tpi only the angle of the read form varies 55' and 60' so either will do. There alot of on line store that will sell the Chinese or second hand taps for varying prices. Machinery House has new and second and as well

Taps (http://www.blackwoods.com.au/search/taps-imperial-unc/threads-per-inch-1-8/307682683/4294177844)
P&N SCM Hand Tap UNC 1 TPI 8 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/P-N-SCM-Hand-Tap-UNC-1-TPI-8-/320629968796?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4aa7090f9c)
HSS Hand tap BSW 1" TPI:8, 4 flutes, Bottom | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HSS-Hand-tap-BSW-1-TPI-8-4-flutes-Bottom-/220642053297?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item335f4a8cb1)

[Chief Tiff]

you will note that BSW and UNC have the same tpi only the angle of the read form varies 55' and 60'


And completely differing threadform geometry. Whit uses rounded roots and crests, Unified are flat-bottomed roots and the crests are truncated which means that the core diameter of a Whit fastner is larger than a Unified one. Yes, you can force Whit and Unified threads together. You can also use a butter knife as a screwdriver, screwdrivers are ideal for use as a chisel, and a thick-soled shoe makes an excellent mallet when chiselling out hinge rebates.

[robert brown]

MIKE..Have a look round the weekend markets i get taps and dies from laverton market...

robert..

[hughie]

And completely differing threadform geometry. Whit uses rounded roots and crests, Unified are flat-bottomed roots and the crests are truncated which means that the core diameter of a Whit fastner is larger than a Unified one. Yes, you can force Whit and Unified threads together. You can also use a butter knife as a screwdriver, screwdrivers are ideal for use as a chisel, and a thick-soled shoe makes an excellent mallet when chiselling out hinge rebates.

[/QUOTE]

Point taken, however in this case I would doubt the variances will make a difference. It is very common in industry that the nuts and bolts are interchanged either by design or accident with very little consquences as they go together well. I have not seen nor heard of an amount of discernable force require to do this.
In this case the thread is primarily for securing and the register for repeatable accuracy, there will some difference in terms of the loss holding power etc but not anything to write home about.

[Mobyturns]

Hughie, not sure what you have in mind for the tapped item to go on your lathe spindle.

I have made up several small (75mm) light duty timber face plates for my Nova Mercury lathe. Used Kwilia & 1" x 8 black nuts set into the rear with epoxy after they were thouroughly cleaned & sides roughed up.
I drilled 6 x 6mm (approx) stopped holes on a PCD set at the distance of the nuts flats dimension into the face grain of the kwilia as relief for the corners of the nut. Then used a forstner bit to drill a 7th stopped hole sized slightly larger than the flats dimension of the nut. The hole pattern ends up looking like a gripwell spanner pattern. The forstner bit hole registers the nut plus the gripwell pattern allows mechanical grip as well as the epoxy bond. Also works for setting nuts into end grain. Just true the face & sides of the timber face plate once the epoxy cures & then glue on a sacrificial face block from something like radiata pine with PVA. The work piece is then glued to the sacrificial block with PVA for face grain & hot melt for end grain items. Great for experimenting with inclined face plates for items like pendants without the need for expensive offset chucks etc. Just part off & replace the sacrificial block when it reaches its use by date.

[hughie]

[not sure what you have in mind for the tapped item to go on your lathe spindle.

I\
The discourse was more to do with whether you could interchange UNC and Whitworth taps or dies for that matter. My point is the difference is there but its not significant and they can be quite readily swapped in this case. So you could fit your 1" BSW bolt to a 1"UNC nut and vice versa with too much trouble at all. It was a common practice afew years ago, the main bug bear was the heads are different and the tradies would complain about having to carry both sets of spanners.

[NeilS]

I\
The discourse was more to do with whether you could interchange UNC and Whitworth taps or dies for that matter. My point is the difference is there but its not significant and they can be quite readily swapped in this case. So you could fit your 1" BSW bolt to a 1"UNC nut and vice versa with too much trouble at all.

.... and, we are talking about threading wood onto metal. Any slight variation in the thread profile that causes a tighter fit will be beneficial, IMO.

[Colin62]

.... and, we are talking about threading wood onto metal. Any slight variation in the thread profile that causes a tighter fit will be beneficial, IMO.

I'm not convinced that tighter is better in this case - you want the wooden faceplate to register against the headstock, not to be tight (but slightly off centre) because your male and female threads are of different profiles.

[Paul39]

Hi all, I'm looking to get a tap to match my lathe's spindle thread; either the Beall Spindle tap, the Lee Valley one, or similar. My lathe is 1" - 8tpi. I have a few online/overseas sources, all around the same price, but was wondering if anyone knew of an australian supplier/retailer of these?

I've tried McJing, but they only have 1" - 10tpi. Many thanks, Mike

Mike,

I have bought 1 X 8 nuts here at Tractor Supply, and at fastener shops. They are kept in stock and are fairly common. Also 1 1/4 X 8, a bit harder to find, and 33mm X 3.5, which had to be ordered and were about 5 for $27, 2 were around $17, so I asked if there was a quantity price break.

I stick a piece of oak on to a face plate with double sided carpet tape, cut a hole about 3/16 inch smaller than the point to point of the nut.

I slather the inside of the hole and outside of the nut that has been roughed up with 80 grit with epoxy and drive it in the hole using the tailstock and a board as a press.

I dribble more epoxy around the flats and poke some oak shavings in with a tooth pick to fill the space.

After it has completely set up, overnight usually, I thread it on the the lathe and face off the front flat.

Go to your nut store and ask for a 1 X 8 nut, if they ask do you want x or y, get both, try on your spindle and the one that fits snugly is the one. Unless your lathe is a home made one it does not have an Acme thread.

It may be for the cost of a tap, you can have a life time supply of 1 X 8 nuts.

You can also make a handful of steel face plates by having someone weld round hunks of 5/16 or 3/8 inch plate to them. They can be cleaned up on your wood lathe by using a file and abrasive paper.

The attached photos show a piece of plywood attached to a faceplate for reversing bowls to finish the bottom, chuck mounted accessories, and a tail stock oversize center for holding a hollowed piece.

[michael_m]

Mike,

I have bought 1 X 8 nuts here at Tractor Supply, and at fastener shops. They are kept in stock and are fairly common. Also 1 1/4 X 8, a bit harder to find, and 33mm X 3.5, which had to be ordered and were about 5 for $27, 2 were around $17, so I asked if there was a quantity price break.


Hi Paul, thanks for that suggestion, it is something I have considered doing as well - I just need to locate my nearest fastener shop!

[Paul39]

Hi Paul, thanks for that suggestion, it is something I have considered doing as well - I just need to locate my nearest fastener shop!

See: buy fasteners in melbourne, au - Google Search (http://www.google.com.au/search?q=buy+fasteners+in+melbourne%2C+au&btnG=Search&sclient=psy-ab&hl=en&site=&btnK=)

[NeilS]

I'm not convinced that tighter is better in this case - you want the wooden faceplate to register against the headstock, not to be tight (but slightly off centre) because your male and female threads are of different profiles.

Colin, I agree that registration against the headstock is the critical thing. I find that it doesn't matter if the wooden faceplate has run-out or wobble the first time you tighten it on the thread, because once it is firmly up against the headstock shoulder you then turn the faceplate true and it will then run true every time you remount it on the headstock.

Why I think tight is better is that the wood will get loose on the metal thread over time anyway and that it is better to start tight to extend the life of your chuck. But, there isn't much lost if it does, you just make another one...:)