Hanging doors - the correct way?

[echelon6]

I'm currently hanging my interior doors in our home full reno and I had a bit of a debate with the carpenter about the correct way the doors should be hanged. I won't label which option is mine and which is his, but I've drawn out the two options below:
http://i.imgur.com/QHcrM.png


My current jambs are as shown below:
http://i.imgur.com/N1TTk.jpg


Which option is the correct way? keep in mind these are interior doors so there's no need for a second door in the same jamb (e.g. flyscreen). Also what are the pros / cons of each option? How is your home done?

[Acco]

Option two is the usual standard and can't say that I've ever seen option one done anywhere.

[Johnnz]

In my experience from working in a joinery factory, option 2 is what I would do. Normally the door stop is only a third the thickness of the jamb though, and the architrave (labelled skirting in your picture) would cover the join between wall cladding and jamb.
One other thing we always did was to put a temporary spacer of 1mm edgeband tape between the door and the stop on the hinged side when tacking in the stop to allow for the slight forward movement of the door toward the stop as it is opened. (We made the jambs to suit doors on our work benches at the factory before sending them out with 2mm clearance between door and jamb all around, with a slight bevel on both door sides).
Hope that helps.

[Bodgia]

Definitely option two, but since it's your house, your doors and your money, I'd say that the "correct way" is the way you want it done. Having said that, I don't think I've ever seen option one before.

In terms of pros and cons, the only ones I can think of either way is that option two is a much more symmetrical/balanced look, you have the option of changing which side of the door stop you hang the door, so it can open inwards instead of outwards, and with option two the door stop is a much narrower strip of timber, so the overall cost is reduced (but this is only really relevant if you have LOTS of doors to do).

Cheers,

Steve

[wolften]

...+4

[Chesand]

I agree with above.
If your builder is a properly qualified tradesman, I would expect his option to be #2

[rustynail]

Option 1 shows a standard single rebated door jamb. (perfectly normal)
Option 2 shows a double rebated door jamb. (again, perfectly normal)
The problem with option 1 is it is unsuitable for narrow architrave due to its inability to cover the joint between wall and jamb. This can be overcome by forming a wide quirk when fitting architraves to the thicker side of the jambs, but this does look unsightly and unprofessional. If wider architrave is used than shown in the diagram the problem is overcome.
Option 1 is the standard internal jamb, only the architrave size is non standard.
Option 2 is a standard external jamb. If the two rebates are equal it allows doors with single leaf hinges to be swung from the opposite side with minimal patching. Often used in prefab type homes where the final decision on direction of door rests with the owner.
Here is a quick way to fit doors:
Determin floor is level between jamb studs. If not cut side jambs to suit ie one longer to bring low side to level.
Cut header jamb to length ie width of door + 2x thickness of side jamb + 2x door edge clearance.
Fit hinges to one side jamb.
Place this jamb on edge of door, allow door clearance at top by moving jamb to extend past top of door by the required clearance between top edge of door and the head jamb. Now mark the hinges onto the door edge if they are to be let in. If not, screw hinges to door edge making sure theis sufficent clearance to prevent the door from back binding on the rebate edge.
Close the jamb on door edge, lay door and jamb on floor opening side up. Glue and fit head jamb. Screw or nail to the end of the side jamb attached to the door.
Fit opening side jamb in same fashion.
Check clearance is even between head jamb and top edge of door. drive small fixing nail through side of opening jamb int the opening edge of door at about one third from the bottom of the door.
Install architraves to this side of the frame.
The door now can be stood up as a unit.
To install the door in the opening requires 2 people, one on each side of door, the one working on the opening side of the door holds the door pressed into position with architraves hard against wall face.
The person on the inside then packs and nails off the hinged jamb to the side stud, followed by the opening jamb, being advised of door edge clearance by his helper.
Once clearance is determined down opening side and the both side jambs have been nailed off, the chap on the opening side inserts a hacksaw blade and cuts through the fixing nail holding the opening jamb to the door edge.
The door can now be opened. The cut nail is punched into the door edge and jamb edge and the resulting holes filled as per other fixing nails.
Final step is architraves to the other side of door and the lockset.
This method allows door units to be made up in advance and then taken to site or just done on site.
A good man can do between 14 - 20 units a day.
Hope this helps.

[mic-d]

:whs: Either option is perfectly acceptable given architraves have wide enough cover. Certainly many of the old Queenslanders I've worked on use option one, so you may want to consider the option which is sympathetic to the style of home. Option one is more stylish, but that is just my opinion :U

[Gaza]

option 1 NSW standard detail, normal rebate 38mm thick timber not a plant on stop.
option 2 VIC standard detail.

[echelon6]

thanks for all the replies to this thread - very helpful. The carpenter suggested to do option 2 but I thought option 1 was the way to go because these were interior doors and also I saw premade jambs sold at Bunnings that were for the option 1 style (had the door stop and the jamb as one piece). Anyway I don't mind the look of either, I just want things done the right way. Thanks guys