How to cut out squares from middle of large sheet of wood

[denno020]

Hi again everyone, another question regarding a project I'm currently working on.

I'm wondering the best way to cut a square out of the middle of a sheet of wood, so that the edges of the square are straight, and not on an angle?

Right now, I have a Dremel, and the perfect attachment which cuts right through the wood easily. However, the problem I'm having is when it comes to making sure the edges of the square are straight. As the dremel has a rather 'big butt' (the battery), it's hard to get the cutting peice at 90 degrees to the wood, and have it cut right the way through (the wood is 6mm thick).

I intend on using the cut pieces to fit back into the place they're cut out of (like doors), so that's why I need the angle to be as close to 90 as possible.

Is there any other way of achieving this?

For reference, the squares that need to be cut will be 8cmx8cm, the wood is 6mm thick, and the sheet of wood they're being cut from is 60cmx40cm.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Denno

[ian]

Hi Deno

I assume the cuts you are refering to relate to your previous question about the construction of an Advent box.

From what I recall you are making the box from MDF
The easiest way to achieve the 8cm x 8cm squares your need for the doors is to cut them from a separate piece of MDF

Then the square holes are relatively easy to cut as the material inside the square can be "wasted" to within a few mm of the recess's edges with your dremel, and then squared up as a separate cut.


As I advised before if you want the box to look like a single piece of real wood (whether your using real wood or MDF) veneer applied after all the cutting out is complete is the way to go.

[denno020]

Thanks for your reply Ian, and yes you hit the nail on the head (haha lame joke), it is for the Advent calendar.

I was afraid that I might have to use a separate piece of wood.. I was really hoping that I wouldn't have to buy any more, as it's getting a little out of hand the total cost for the project.
Is there any other way I could possibly cut it? I don't mind if there is a few mm gap around the door (in fact I'm counting on there being a gap, as I will have an LED light inside the door that will light up when my nephew is 'allowed' to open the door, so there would need to be gaps for this to be seen easily).

I've even toyed with the idea of _carefully_ using my circular saw (which I now have - yay) and trying to plunge cut the doors out.. But I think that's a bit optimistic.

[SAISAY]

If you are talking about the Dremel Trio, then it works like a jigsaw.
I would simply make up a square or, preferably, a 3 sided square frame for the foot to run against.
When you come to the end of the cut, turn the Dremel 90 degrees and continue the cut to the next end.
turn your frame to make the last 2 cuts. That is if you have a 3 sided frame.
With just a square, you will need to turn it for each cut which leaves room for error as far as 90 degrees is concerned.
Actually, come to think about it, you can do the same if the attachment you have is the round one but it is a little bit more difficult to control.
Good luck

[denno020]

Thanks for the input Saisay, but I don't have the Dremel Trio, I've got the 10.8 Lithium (so battery powered one).

I've got the 543 Dremel attachment, which cuts through the wood like butter, even on half speed. But the diameter of the blade isn't big enough to keep the cut perpendicular, and stop the big size of the battery being a problem.

[mic-d]

I think the best way to do it would be with a renovating tool buttressed against a 90º guide block. You could make a cradle to hold the dremel so the blade is at 90º but I suspect that the wheel is too small to do that and still reach the work. If you think it's possible (because you can see your tool) the way I would do that is to screw a couple of battens of timber to 3mm ply with enough space between them to fit/lay your dremel, fill the trench with a some builders bog mixed for a reasonably slow set time, lay on some cling film over it and press your dremel into it, checking that your blade is 90º to the surface. Let it set and you have a cradle. If you make it right, you can run it against a fence too for a straight cut. Probably want to make sure you don't cover up any cooling vents around the motor...

[denno020]

Oh a renovating tool! That's a good idea.. I'll have to see if I can find someone who has one so I can test it out.

Thanks!

[Humphrey9999]

I'd use the Dremel (4000) plunge router attachment with a 1/8" bit, then clean up the corners manually with a hobby knife, since the material is only 6mm thick.
Not sure if the plunge router attachment will fit the 10.8V model, though. You'd need to check. (If your's is an 8200, the plunge router will fit, apparently.)
For use with models 275, 285, 300, 395, 398, 400, 780, 8000,8200 and 4000 Costs around $50, but you'd find heaps of uses for it. On special here: Dremel Plunge Router Attachment 335 - My Tool Store (http://www.mytoolstore.com.au/products/Dremel-Plunge-Router-Attachment-335.html)

If you don't want to buy the plunge router attachment, a cheaper alternative is the Dremel Multi-Purpose Cutting Kit, on special at $9.90 + deliv. here: Dremel Multipurpose Cutting Kit 565. - My Tool Store (http://www.mytoolstore.com.au/products/Dremel-Multipurpose-Cutting-Kit-565..html)
Used in conjunction with a clamped-on fence, it should do the job.

For use with Dremel rotary tool models 275, 285, 395,396, 398, 780, 8000, 400, 8200, 4000
300Series 400 Series,XRP

[denno020]

Thanks for the reply Humphrey9999.

I looked that bit up, and it'll create a 3.2mm wide cut, which is a bit too much..

I was going to stretch it for my circular saw which has a 2.4mm thick blade, but I was thinking that even that would be too much.

I think the renovator (or multi-function) tool is perfect, I just have to find someone who has one that I can borrow, don't have the money to be able to buy one at the moment :(..

[Handyjack]

Oh a renovating tool! That's a good idea.. I'll have to see if I can find someone who has one so I can test it out.

Thanks!

What I would probably call a multi function tool with a oscillating blade. Yes they are great for cutting square holes - but - you may find doing neat corners difficult and cuts at exactly 90 degrees to the face. However you would need to try it to see how you go.

A combination of circular saw, jig saw, multifunction tool should enable you to have a satisfactory result.

Ian's suggestion of two pieces of material will most likely produce the best results unless you are prepared to spend some money and have it laser cut.

[denno020]

If I can't find a renovator tool, then Ian's suggestion is the one I'll be going with.

Laser cutting it would be awesome, but I have no idea if there is anywhere in Adelaide that could do it, and by the way you say 'spend some money to have it laser cut', it doesn't sound like it'd be too cheap :/..

[Humphrey9999]

Thanks for the reply Humphrey9999.

I looked that bit up, and it'll create a 3.2mm wide cut, which is a bit too much..

I was going to stretch it for my circular saw which has a 2.4mm thick blade, but I was thinking that even that would be too much.

I think the renovator (or multi-function) tool is perfect, I just have to find someone who has one that I can borrow, don't have the money to be able to buy one at the moment :(..

The standard Dremel router bits go down to 3.2mm, but for soft 6mm material, you could use a thin end-mill bit, (available on eBay). I have them in 0.050", 1/16", 1mm and 0.8mm diameter. As long as you didn't lean too hard on it, they'd leave a very narrow kerf line.
If it's worth making this project, it's worth spending a few $$$ in my opinion.

[denno020]

The standard Dremel router bits go down to 3.2mm, but for soft 6mm material, you could use a thin end-mill bit, (available on eBay). I have them in 0.050", 1/16", 1mm and 0.8mm diameter. As long as you didn't lean too hard on it, they'd leave a very narrow kerf line.
If it's worth making this project, it's worth spending a few $$$ in my opinion.

Do you know the part numbers of these end-mill bits? I have a Dremel accessory poster that I use for reference, but I can't see anything like that on there (however I don't know how comprehensive the poster is).

I've already spent lots of $$$ on this project, and I'm running out of money so that's why I need to be careful lol.

[Humphrey9999]

Do you know the part numbers of these end-mill bits? I have a Dremel accessory poster that I use for reference, but I can't see anything like that on there (however I don't know how comprehensive the poster is).

I've already spent lots of $$$ on this project, and I'm running out of money so that's why I need to be careful lol.

End mills aren't a standard Dremel accessory, that's why you can't find them, (and why I mentioned eBay).

$5 each here. These will just do 6mm: Straight Shank Cutting Depth HSS-AL End Mills Cutter 6mmx1mm | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Straight-Shank-Cutting-Depth-HSS-AL-End-Mills-Cutter-6mmx1mm-/330803105551?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4d0566cf0f)

The bits are cheap, but the plunge router base is still needed, at $50.

When it's a tool or accessory, I don't usually count it as part of the cost of the project, since it will be re-used many times.
Might be worth waiting until payday.

Edit: I should have mentioned - I bought 10 of each size end-mill, prepared for breakages, but none have broken so far.

[ian]

Thanks for your reply Ian, and yes you hit the nail on the head (haha lame joke), it is for the Advent calendar.

I was afraid that I might have to use a separate piece of wood.. I was really hoping that I wouldn't have to buy any more, as it's getting a little out of hand the total cost for the project.
Is there any other way I could possibly cut it? I don't mind if there is a few mm gap around the door (in fact I'm counting on there being a gap, as I will have an LED light inside the door that will light up when my nephew is 'allowed' to open the door, so there would need to be gaps for this to be seen easily).

I've even toyed with the idea of _carefully_ using my circular saw (which I now have - yay) and trying to plunge cut the doors out.. But I think that's a bit optimistic.save your circular saw for cutting 8cm x 8cm squares from a separate piece of MDF

what you want to do is just do-able, but not IMO with your current tooling.
something like a Fein or Bosch multi-tool is the tool of choice, but the blade you'd need to use would, last time I bought one, cost much more than a small piece of 6mm MDF

[Humphrey9999]

save your circular saw for cutting 8cm x 8cm squares from a separate piece of MDF

what you want to do is just do-able, but not IMO with your current tooling.
something like a Fein or Bosch multi-tool is the tool of choice, but the blade you'd need to use would, last time I bought one, cost much more than a small piece of 6mm MDF

I agree, Ian, that the best and especially cheapest method is to rough out the hole then square up the edges and then cut separate squares to fit. It's only worth buying extra equipment if it will be used regularly.

I have a Dremel Multi-Max, (Bosch multi-tool), and also agree that it would do it. Probably using the semi-circular dry-wall cutter, with corner cleanup using the plunge cutter or a hobby knife. The normal plunge cutter won't do a continuous line, so would need a series of vertical plunge cuts.

For 6mm material, it could almost be done using only a hobby knife and a steel rule, from both sides.

[denno020]

Thanks guys, you've convinced me to just get another bit of MDF. It really is only a few dollars, so it is the smartest option. I was really hoping to minimize wastage.. But I'm sure I'll find something else to use the smaller cut outs for.

Thanks again for the thorough help from everyone :).