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John Samuel
24th October 2012, 10:55 AM
I am making up some new shrouds/hoods for my dust collection system and would like to be able to glue polyethylene plastic to other stuff (PVC, aluminium and perhaps wood).

Did a few searches and found conflicting advice about what works and what does not. We all know that PE is tough to glue. Even sealants won't stick to it. Some manufacturers (3M is one) reckon they have products that will do the job, but there are detractors out there.

It seems to me that a glue that will stick to PE will likely stick to just about anything else.

Does anyone have any advice/information?

Thanks!

crowie
24th October 2012, 04:07 PM
G'Day John,
You could try plumbers solvent & pipe glue on the PE?? though I'm not sure about it!!
On the PVC the only think I've used is contact cement glue but it's not crash hot!!
Cheers, crowie

BobL
24th October 2012, 05:31 PM
We use silastic to stick PE to PVC but it's not all that strong a bond so we compensate by making the contact area significantly wider than usual.
Physically scouring the surfaces of both plastics also help.
Some of our joints are over 25 years old in aggressive high acid vapour environments and still holding as good as first made.
We also often mechanically join them with screws and seal them with with silastic.
I have also used threaded HDPE irrigation fittings to join PE to just about everything else (wood, PVC, Glass, PC, Metal)

This is part of an all plastic lab I built in 1986.
The creamy coloured plastic wall on the LHS is PP, the rest of the white plastic is HDPE, the containers are all telfon and HDPE.
The HEPA filters on the ceiling are encased in HDPE.
All the black fixings are HDPE irrigation fittings.
We no longer use PE for structural components because long term and - under pressure it buckles, stretches and flows in time.
I would see if you can use something else instead.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=238270&stc=1

It would be easier to provide advice if we could see more detail of what you need to join.

John Samuel
24th October 2012, 06:07 PM
I am planning to build a new hood for my jointer/thicknesser.

The current plan is to buy a PE hood from Carba Tec like this one.
238275
Then I need to soften and push a 150mm pipe over the inlet. Easy with cooking oil (did a test this morning with 2" pipe ... worked like a charm). Then I need to cut out the 4" pipe and join the 150mm pipe to the hood (lap joint ... maybe about one inch overlap). Finally, I'll shape the hood to fit my thicknesser and fit aluminium angle to the edges where it connects to the machine. Next, I need to extend the front of the hood a little (have some clear PVC off-cuts lying around) to provide an additional source of air to keep air volume up. This secondary air will flow up diagonally and over the cutter head, into the primary air stream and out the pipe. That should help pick up both visible and invisible dust, but I must get enough air flowing up the pipe to try to maintain the important 1,000/4,000 figures.

Seems to me that a combo of glue and small bolts would do the job, but I want the glue to be as good as possible to keep the beast airtight.

Cheerio!

BobL
24th October 2012, 08:47 PM
I am planning to build a new hood for my jointer/thicknesser.

The current plan is to buy a PE hood from Carba Tec like this one.
238275

Those hoods are not PE, the plastic is too brittle to be PE or PC.
It is probably some form of ABS and will glue easily with epoxy.
If it is ABS it will partially dissolve when exposed to epoxy.

John Samuel
25th October 2012, 10:21 AM
Of course it is ABS. Thanks for the slap to the side of the head.

Will epoxy bond ABS to PVC? I am currently looking at ACRI - BOND 120.

Cheerio!

BobL
25th October 2012, 05:00 PM
Of course it is ABS. Thanks for the slap to the side of the head.

Will epoxy bond ABS to PVC? I am currently looking at ACRI - BOND 120.

Cheerio!

It should.