Glueing wood for turning

[FlippedOut]

Hey guys,

This has probebly been answered somewhere else but buggered if i can find it. Basically looking for some info on the process and what glue to use to glue several peices of wood so it can be big enough to turn a bowl or whatever. I was thinking of using like clear epoxy or something so u can see the glue and its strong enough that peices wont fly off and take my head off. Any tips would be appeciated.

Thanks Guys!

[Kev Y.]

Flippedout, you could use ordinary PVA for your turning, and then wrap something like GAFFA tape around the project just to assist in countering the forces.

Also DONT TURN AT TOO HIGHER A SPEED! (the voice of experience here)

[Gingermick]

I have used a contact adhesive. (The green stuff) The bloke in the local club who does a lot of segmented stuff used the yellow glue.

Theres my suggestions , yellow stuff or green stuff.
Mick
(Sorry I couldn't be more specific)

[Rowan]

I have just finished rough turning two bits of oak glued together just used pva glue. only issue I had was getting the join good enough wihtout leaving a gap :cool:

[FlippedOut]

thanks guys, ive got some tradesmans choice ill try, ill let ya know how it goes

[macca2]

G'day flippedOut........this was glued with PVA. Don,t clamp it too tight or you will squeeze all the glue out. Leave for about 12 hours and away you go, but not too fast.

Macca

[echnidna]

I've only ever used PVA and I have made table legs up to 8" square then turned them.
Never had a problem with the glue.

[ozwinner]

G'day flippedOut........this was glued with PVA. Don,t clamp it too tight or you will squeeze all the glue out. Leave for about 12 hours and away you go, but not too fast.

Macca
Didnt I see that thing fly over my place last night??

Al :eek:

[Dean]

Didnt I see that thing fly over my place last night??

Al :eek:

Depends, how many beers had you consumed by that stage? :D :D :D

[gatiep]

I personally use Titebond Original or Titebond 2. Make sure the fit is good, coat one piece and rub the other piece on it until it kind of 'sucks on'. Occasionally I clamp afterwards, but if the pieces are small and fidly, I don't bother if I use the above method. I just leave it for 24 hours before turning. I have never had it fail, however if you don't clamp and it fails, don't hold me responsible.

PVA glue works ok, but use a good fit and clamp.

:)

[TimberNut]

I have never had a problem with PVA myself. It's cheaper than some of the quicker setting stuff, and as long as your 2 surfaces are clean and flat before you start, clamp well, and leave 24 hours, away you go. May not be as strong as solid timber, but I've never been afraid to crank it up on the lathe.

Turned a few laminated S & P grinders and ran them at 2000 RPM with no probs. Maybe foolhardy ignorance, but didn't stress me.

I'm sure there have been some colossal separations on the lathe, but touch wood ;) , haven't had one yet, and have always been satisfied that the PVA would hold.

Disclaimer, they weren't massive diameters, and the rotational forces would be greater away from centre, so more caution would be recommended, the larger you go.

[Alastair]

Guys


IMHO the ordinary "white" PVA is not the most suitable for this application. It will do OK for things like table legs etc, but even there, one gets some problems with sanding, and creep on the glue line.

For intricate stuf like segmented bowls and vases, I have had less success with "white glue". I now use the "Yellow" crosslinked aliphatic PVA, (available from all the usual brand names, and rub joint like Joe sed. Been doing this for about 8 years now, and have never had a piece fail on the lathe. Have had some give up due to wood movement, but this was due to indifferent design of the piece, and large changes in humidity, (as in Durban summer at 85% to Sydney winter at 35%). Even in these cases, the failure was in the wood, and not the glue line.
Haven't used epoxy, and have tried supeglue only once or twice, but believe they have an application when using oily timbers like Teak, where the water based glues are said to give problems. With that said, however, I have made pieces in oily timbers using the yellow glue without problems.

Regards

[dai sensei]

I have just finished a segmental bowl using "Instant Mitre Fix" by Maxi Products from Bunnings. I am very impatient and this product worked well for me. You spray one part on one piece, then apply gel to the other, joining them sets it off - within 10 seconds! Just watch the fingers, it glues them to.

I must admit I waited 2 hours before spinning the layers to face them off, but had no problems.

Hope this helps.

[echnidna]

Sounds very interesting, I can think of an application for it but the nearest bunnies to me is a couple of hours away.