CHJ 4th April 2005, 04:54 AM This may be of interest to non Triton Owners on a tight budget.
http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4216&highlight=
amgsir 3rd May 2005, 03:46 PM Thanks for posting this, was just thinking about this issue and now I nolonger need to reinvent the wheel.
Thanks again
CHJ 4th May 2005, 06:30 AM Thanks for posting this, was just thinking about this issue and now I nolonger need to reinvent the wheel.
Thanks again
You are welcome, glad it is of some use. Am currently fitting the same to a new router table with a dedicated router.
Dewy 12th May 2005, 02:31 PM I go to a forum on the other side of the world and find CHJ almost on my doorstep.
Except that the Cotswolds covers a large area. ;)
CHJ 12th May 2005, 11:48 PM I go to a forum on the other side of the world and find CHJ almost on my doorstep.
Except that the Cotswolds covers a large area. ;)
Between Cirencester & Stroud :) I have seen you around on here (http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/index.php]here)
Dewy 13th May 2005, 02:12 AM I use the ukworkshop forum as well as the routerforum in the states and AskTheTrades (http://www.askthetrades.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl) and the Screwfix forum along with a few visits to a number of other forums.
occam 5th August 2005, 09:32 PM This may be of interest to non Triton Owners on a tight budget.
http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4216&highlight=
I looked at the UK post and want to make an easy-to-use height adjuster!
But I wonder.. if one added a second rod (through the other set of guide holes), another pair of metal strips but this side going to a connecting metal or wood part; with the adjusting rod end fastened to the middle of this connecting link: would not this give a more robust device, with kind of a scissor-like action?
Also, with the second rod and second link, the loads would be symmetrical?
CHJ 6th August 2005, 06:58 AM I looked at the UK post and want to make an easy-to-use height adjuster!
But I wonder.. if one added a second rod (through the other set of guide holes), another pair of metal strips but this side going to a connecting metal or wood part; with the adjusting rod end fastened to the middle of this connecting link: would not this give a more robust device, with kind of a scissor-like action?
Also, with the second rod and second link, the loads would be symmetrical?
All I can say is mock it up and try it. If it does a better job then post the details so that we can all compare the setup and make a choice. There is nothing sacrosanct about the design and can no doubt be improved upon in one way or another.
Bodgy 6th August 2005, 07:03 PM Occam
I just made a router lifter. I didnt go with the design you have seen cause a) it relies on both router handles being symetrical (mine aren't) b) I can see the router 'jumping' as the timber slides stick a bit on the handles c) I dont think the lift rate would be constant.
I made a very functional, simple lifter for less than $10, but was shamed by Sturdee's far more sophisticated on the same theme.
Check the thread 'home made jigs etc' post = router lifter I think. Points to Sturdee's masterpiece.
Bodgy
occam 8th August 2005, 03:19 PM Using a cheap item from Bunnings seems to be something to check. Meanwhile, until I have finished the current 'projects', I am using a car scissor jack - which is removed before the router is started.
meerkat 11th August 2005, 05:23 PM Hi Chas looks great. :cool:
ANy chance of some bigger pictures for us illiterate and lysdexic people.:D
thanks
CHJ 11th August 2005, 06:58 PM Hi Chas looks great. :cool:
ANy chance of some bigger pictures for us illiterate and lysdexic people.:D
thanks
800 X 600 do?
meerkat 11th August 2005, 07:58 PM 800 X 600 do?
That'll be great
thanks :)
CHJ 5th September 2005, 07:32 AM Here is another variation on the above idea that might provide some added ideas:
http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6208 (http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6208)
It incorporates Above Table Height Adjustment and by removing the router handles and fixing the actuating arms directly to the handle fixing points gives better control of the router position.
occam 14th November 2005, 11:09 AM After laboriously making a support for a car jack under the router, I found that the router I had intended for the router table (cheap GMC) actually needs a lever being pressed - or it will not permit changing depth (height, in this case).
Oh well, the stuff is in place now for the next router..
Bodgy 14th November 2005, 04:28 PM Never give up! Don't be a whooz. It's only a lever, unscrew the case, have a look at the mechanism, and remove the offending part. Opportunity to clean the dust out while you're at it.
Oh and yeah, unplug it first.
outback 14th November 2005, 04:37 PM An easier option is to either tape the lever in postion, or use a cable tie.
occam 14th November 2005, 06:42 PM Well, I'll try one of those tips (if I cannot convince SHMBO that a new router is needed) - but only after I have used the 1/2" machine for hardwood stair risers, and other heavy hardwood work (off-table).
Dewy 14th November 2005, 10:14 PM I was going to buy a DW625 for table use with raised panel bits etc but finally decided on the Trend T11.
The Trend is made by DeWalt as an update to the DW625 but can be raised from both top and bottom of the router and has a larger aperture for panel raising bits.
The table will just need a hole drilling where the raising tool fits to the router base.
It has a greater cutting depth than others especially for table use.
All new routers here in UK have a switch that has to be held on so cant be used in a table without something to lock the switch on.
The T11 gets round this by being an upgrade of an existing router (DW625)
Its recommended price is far more than the 625 but some stockists are selling it much less than that so it is at the same price as I could get the 625 from a discount tool shop.
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