How big a hammer do you need?

[Michael G]

Last weekend I was swinging my 16oz (450g) Sidchrome hickory handled ball pein hammer at a punch and suddenly had the head fly off in a ballistic arc on the back swing (handle broke inside the head). It was only 27 years old too (pause for a moment's silence).
Sidchrome may honour their lifetime guarantee, but in the mean time I need to get another hammer. Looking at what is available, there are steel handles, fibreglass handles, graphite handles, wooden handles and other stranger mixtures. Common weights seem to be 12oz, 16oz, 24oz, 32oz (and probably others exist too).
Hans anyone got any thoughts on what a good brand, weight and handle type is these days - I haven't bought one since I bought the kit with this one in it.
16oz seemed alright for most applications, although a little light for precision "really laying into something". Would I be better with say a 12oz for marking out and a 24oz for thumping?

Michael

[Com_VC]

I gave up on wooden handles years. The head flew off on mine a few times. It could easily knock someone out especially at work where there are usually a few people around.

I use fibreglass handles and havent had any issues with them yet. I use a 32 oz for pretty much everything at work, but a smaller one would probably be better for centre punching.

If anyone has any tips for keeping a wooden handle on I wouldn't mind knowing!

[Avery]

I really hate to say this, but why not go over to the WOODTURNING forum and see if someone can make you a new hickory handle for your antique (?) hammer.

Yeah, I know it could be traumatic, but the blokes over there are really OK- they may not know their brass from their elbow joint but I'm sure they could help

[kraits]

I gave up on wooden handles years. The head flew off on mine a few times. It could easily knock someone out especially at work where there are usually a few people around.

I use fibreglass handles and havent had any issues with them yet. I use a 32 oz for pretty much everything at work, but a smaller one would probably be better for centre punching.

If anyone has any tips for keeping a wooden handle on I wouldn't mind knowing!


go wood, fiberglass has a good argument but wood feels better in the hand and you can shape it, if it comes lose hammer a wedge into it.

[Anorak Bob]

Michael,

I just slipped up to the shed to see what I have. My 16 oz ball pein is a hickory handled Blue Point. It's just a hammer. I have a nylon handled 24oz and a 12 oz leather handled Estwing. The 24 is great for heavy work.
I have a couple of bitty Blue Points that I use with prick punches and the optical centre punch.

My favourite is a 12 oz Cheney. It has an octagonal hickory handle that is slender and a pleasure to hold. The hammer is beautifully balanced. Cost me 5 bucks. Cheneys were the hammer when I was a kid. Held in the same regard as Disston Philadelphia saws. I had never laid eyes on a Cheney ball pein until I found mine.

I had a Plumb fibreglass claw hammer. Nice to use until, as a result of misuse, you start picking fibreglass out of your skin.

Go Hickory and American.

BT

[Michael G]

A new (replacement) handle would not be hard to find or fit, but at the moment I want to hear whether there is a better material out there.
Like Bob with his Cheney, when I was a teenager a carpenter that I respected swore by his Estwing and I've since had a secret longing for one. They do make a ball pein with a forged steel handle...
I agree that wood feels good to use but at the moment I'm concerned at how little time this handle lasted. I'm also thinking that a larger hammer for thumping and a smaller one for more precise tapping could be the go. I've seen ads for hammers with steel rod handles encased in rubber - billed as unbreakable. Could be good for handing out the odd bit of abuse.

Michael

[Steamwhisperer]

Hi Michael,
I have a 32 oz ball pein that has provided service under great duress since my apprenticeship. It still has the original wooden handle!
If the handle is fitted correctly they last and last and give great shock absorption. The key is 'well fitted' though. Kind of another skill that is leaving us.
Give me a wooden handle any day.
But then you know what I'm like :D

Phil

[nadroj]

If anyone has any tips for keeping a wooden handle on I wouldn't mind knowing!

I saw one that had 2 hardwood wedges across, and a metal wedge down the centre, that looked convincing.

Jordan

[Abratool]

Michael
Im with those who like the wooden handles.
Just checked my stock of ball pein hammers.
I have a 4oz 8oz 16oz 24oz 32oz
The first three are Australian Cyclone Forged hammers made in Wonthaggi Victoria the last 2 are USA & all still have the original wood handles.
I have owned all since new & date back 50 yrs plus,... (more silence)
Additional, one of my most useful hammers is a small homemade cross pein hardened hammer, of European design, about 4 oz.
It was made to primarily serve as a peening hammer for lightly peening hardened & ground thin steel sections for straightening, as in precision try square blade, plane blade, straightening etc. Introduces a compressive stress to the component & stretches the metal, with very accurate results.
I will attempt to get some photos.
regards
Bruce
ps In my woodworking hammers I like "Brades" English made, Warrington style (Cross Pein type)
These also have wooden handles.

[Anorak Bob]

This will last a few lifetimes. Estwing Ball Peen Hammer 16oz 18478 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Estwing-Ball-Peen-Hammer-16oz-18478-/230860731696?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c05f3530)

My 12oz leather handled Estwing was my go to hammer for twenty years. Then I found the Cheney.

As for carpentry Michael, I, like the bloke you know, swear by my Estwing forged claw. In my mind the best claw hammer made.

Bob

edit .. Bruce . You are back!

[kraits]

ever seen a blacksmith using a fibreglass handled hammer, must be a reason they only use wooden handles. when they break, linish the varnish off and use them for smoking fish or meat.:U

[calala]

G'day Michael, you might like to try this hammer! :C


240890

[Ueee]

All my hammers have timber handles, except 2 estwing steel and leather jobies. I have broken several handles whilst forging, but i just get a new one and fit it. I have always been wary of fiberglass handles, i have seen the results of one that has splintered and i never want it to happen to me. I also don't know how heat proof the fiberglass is which is important for use in the forge.....
The way Jordon described wedging the handle in is how i was taught, but the handle to head fit must be good first, no gaps etc....

[Abratool]

This will last a few lifetimes. Estwing Ball Peen Hammer 16oz 18478 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Estwing-Ball-Peen-Hammer-16oz-18478-/230860731696?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c05f3530)

My 12oz leather handled Estwing was my go to hammer for twenty years. Then I found the Cheney.

As for carpentry Michael, I, like the bloke you know, swear by my Estwing forged claw. In my mind the best claw hammer made.

Bob

edit .. Bruce . You are back!
Bob
Yes, returned from Caravan & Camping trip up to Queensland & Moreton Island off Brisbane.
Have missed the Forum chatter.
I will give you a phone call soon. Whats the best time, when you dont have a paint brush in hand?
Regarding the Carpentry & claw hammer I would agree, the Estwing is the go.
Claw hammers get a lot of leverage loads, & the Estwing design is suberb.
regards
Bruce

[anglesmith]

I use wooden handled hammers that I fit myself, using both bought and self made handles. There are a lots of handleless hammer heads at the markets that are looking for a new owner, with careful selection you will find some of them are very well made, probably quite old and can (with patience) be found in good order and well worth rehandling. BWT walk away from "marketeer" handled hammers, not only are you getting a cheap second or third grade handle, the marketeer knows nothing about fitting handles and I think cares even less and your paying more than double for all his effort!!
Back to "modern" hammers with both fiberglass and wooden handles, you will find if you look closely that the head has been made with little or NO draught and is totally dependent on the glue to hold the head on the handle! Check out the draught in some of the old English made (ball pein) hammers, with a good handle and proper wedging they will last for years. I'm not against modern adhesives, some glued hammers may well be good enough for half my lifetime, but they can't be rehandled easily if at all! No doubt there will be a future (If not already?) law against self handled hammers in the work place!
Graeme

[BobL]

A timber that is often forgotten as a hammer handle is plain old Spotted Gum.
It has a Modulus of Rupture (MOR) of of 150 MPa (hickory is 139) and a modulus of elasticity of 23000 MPa (hickory is 15500).

Several other WA timbers that are very strong are Mallet (MOR of 179 MPa!), Wandoo, Tuart, and for you eastern staters even Tassie blue gum (MOR of 146 MPa)

[anglesmith]

Interesting, didn't know that the specs are better for spotted gum than hickory. Ive had good service from Ozzie hardwood (spotted gum?)handles. I've read poster's on US forums complaining that the modern hickory handles aren't as good as older hickory handles use to be! When it comes to our hardwood handles, nearly 20 years ago when a mate and I visited the handle factory in Newcastle (long gone) the manager then was saying that they were having great trouble in getting "good" quality spotted gum logs! So goodness knows what the quality of wood is in the replacement handles that end up in Bun.......s, etc today! Let alone the second or worse grade handles we buy from markets? Either source may be good enough for a maddock or rake handle, but for a hammer, well that could be a problem!
Graeme

[anglesmith]

MichaelG,
Sorry & apologies, most of us (me in particular) have gone down the track of handle type, quality and replacement fitting etc, and have not answered your question!

To have the handle break in the middle of the eye is not common and taking into account it's long and faithful service (a moment silence again), I'd say the handle died of hard-work, fatique and internal organ failure! But I will go on to humbly comment / suggest that having the need to swing a 1lb hammer from over the shoulder shows us that you, on some occasions need a larger hammer!? We have all heard the old adage "The bigger the problem the BIGGER the hammer" As a machinist/fitter/blacksmith/collector I have a large number of hammers of all sorts, but just in ball peins I would reguarly use from 2oz to 3lb, when it comes to forging I reguarly use up to 6lb and when striking for someone else 7/12 lb sledges. In the short term you may need to buy a new heavier hammer, but long term you owe it to your faithful Sidchrome hammer head to fit a new handle and put it back into service for another half a lifetime and also to find the joy that comes from rescueing an unloved hammer head or two from a market or garage sale!
Graeme

[Bushmiller]

I am in uncharted waters here (for me that is) as some of you metal workers are assisting with a problem of mine (one of those I can talk about :rolleyes: ) and I happened to see this thread.

Firstly I have to agree with Avery when he said there are some really good blokes over there on the wood forums. Avery you are such a perceptive man :wink: .

Secondly I'd make the comment that while you can get by with a single sized tool it rarely does everything well. I have probably six or seven ball pein hammers, even as a woodworker, and at least three have heads on them. Seriously (what am I saying, my previous statement was truthful) I would suggest at least a medium and heavy hammer is the minimum.

I actually need an extra large as well to comply withy the philosophy of the bigger the problem; the bigger the hammer. I also have a couple of sledgies hanging around for the impossible moments.

I just checked my shipping container and I have 16 hammers on the wall ready for work, 3 on the floor because there is nowhere to hang them up and a whole draw full of hammer heads waiting for me to do the right thing by them (what sort of a job would that be? beats me:? ).

Out of the commercial timbers, and I do stress commercially available, hickory seems to be preferred but Australian spotted gum (and lemon scented gum in QLD) are very passable substitutes. I actually prefer them. BobL has made reference to it's resilience and toughness. It is also a hard durable timber and relatively easily available. It is far and away the best australian timber for impact resistence. Consequently it is good for hammers, axes, block splitters and the like.

There are a number of "boutique" timbers that are as good or in some cases better, but they are hard to source, expensive relatively and not warranted for a tool that may become covered in grease and metal dust (unlike a prized wood chisel for example).

To my mind the only way to attach a hammer head is a timber wedge in the long direction of the hammer head and either one or two metal wedges (depending on hammer size and space) at ninety degrees to the timber one. The heathens use aradite too. That's ok until you have to take the handle off at any time in the future.

Yes I do have a slight bias towards timber :rolleyes: . But in mydefence I do have an estwing claw hammer. The leather rings disintegrated and I made a timber handle, from spotted gum, to replace it :D . I think the shock absorbing qualities of timber are indisputable.

Michael, I hope this has helped you. Back to the lifebelt for me.

Regards
Paul

[BobL]

I just read this on another site and it makes a heap of sense.


You can take wood down to 0% MC, but it will come back up to what ever the wood in that environment is. This is exactly what I do wiith hammer handles, I do initial shaping and fitting then pop it in the oven with the pilot light for 24 hours and then do my final fitting and mount the head. as it comes back up in moisture content it swells and get even tighter.

[Bushmiller]

Interesting, didn't know that the specs are better for spotted gum than hickory. Ive had good service from Ozzie hardwood (spotted gum?)handles. I've read poster's on US forums complaining that the modern hickory handles aren't as good as older hickory handles use to be! When it comes to our hardwood handles, nearly 20 years ago when a mate and I visited the handle factory in Newcastle (long gone) the manager then was saying that they were having great trouble in getting "good" quality spotted gum logs! So goodness knows what the quality of wood is in the replacement handles that end up in Bun.......s, etc today! Let alone the second or worse grade handles we buy from markets? Either source may be good enough for a maddock or rake handle, but for a hammer, well that could be a problem!
Graeme

Graeme

You are probably right about the quality of timber. It is an unfortunate fact that timber often is nowhere as good as it was. The best timber (big generalisation coming up) comes from large mature trees that grow slowly. There are not very many of those around today and plantation timber is immediately at a disadvantage. The density of plantation grown timber as opposed to forest could easily be 10% less or more.

Fast grown and younger tress also have more growth stress within them and the timber is not nearly so stable.

Interesting that you should mention the Newcastle firm of handlemakers. Heely Bros was an amazing place and for a short time I supplied very small quantities of Spotted Gum to them. When I first did this they would only accept 3m lengths that were absolutely clear (perfect). By the time I finished supplying they would accept a piece 1m long.

In fact they closed down because they could no longer source timber. I was at their clearing sale in 2000. Before they closed they had been the largest manufacturer of australian, tool handles.

The Japanese hammers (gennou ) use a technique for fitting hammer heads that echoes BobL's philosophy. Their hammer heads have a rectangular hole. The timber handle is shaped until there is an inteference fit. Then the section due to go into the hole is hammered until the fibers are compressed and the handle will fit. Once the handle is on the hammer it is soaked in oil to swell the pores. However the cheaper Japanese handles (like those I have :( ) use a wedge and not very well, because the hole is not flared.

Regards
Paul

[rusty steel]

Just buy a handle from bigBs, use a wooden wedge and epoxy and don't tell anyone.
"What the eye don't see, the heart don't grieve"

Russell :D

[node105]

Picard make nice hammers, and list lots of spare handles

<<
Picard Tools have been on the market since 1857 and this stands for 150 years of specialising in hammer manufacturing>>

Joh. Hermann Picard GmbH & Co. (http://www.picard-hammer.de/en/home.html)

[AndrewOC]

I 'need' a 2 or 3cwt (thats hundredweight) hammer, if anyone has one lying around...

241142 241143

he he,
Andrew.

[Ueee]

I 'need' a 2 or 3cwt (thats hundredweight) hammer, if anyone has one lying around...

241142 241143

he he,
Andrew.

Why not just make one.....

http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o622/ueee84/IMAG0588Large.jpg

approx 50lbs, diff and handbrake clutch, 3hp motor. Have to do a write up on it actually.......

[BaronJ]

I gave up on wooden handles years. The head flew off on mine a few times. It could easily knock someone out especially at work where there are usually a few people around.

I use fibreglass handles and havent had any issues with them yet. I use a 32 oz for pretty much everything at work, but a smaller one would probably be better for centre punching.

If anyone has any tips for keeping a wooden handle on I wouldn't mind knowing!


I keep all my hammers in a plastic pail of water. :-)

[Andy Mac]

I have a range of hammers something like Bushmiller's :rolleyes:, and all of them bar two have wooden handles. The main problem I've had is the heads loosening due the shrinkage in a hot shed. My main 'user' claw hammer has a fibreglass handle, bought in the mid '80's. I keep saying I'll buy an Estwing when the thing finally gives out, but it won't, despite some hard use!! Score one for fibreglass:)
The other non-wood handle is a length of pipe welded to a modified claw hammer head for pulling bulk nails, but that's a different story!:oo:

Cheers

[Karl Robbers]

ever seen a blacksmith using a fibreglass handled hammer, must be a reason they only use wooden handles. when they break, linish the varnish off and use them for smoking fish or meat.:U
It's hard enough to find a Blacksmith in the first place! :U
Timber handles - good ones at least - are possibly the finest to use, but the more modern handles are probably more user abuse tolerant albeit at the expense of greater difficulty/impossibility in replacement plus it is so damn hard to buy good timber handles now, whether for an axe, a hammer or a hoe.

[HavinaGo]

An old hardwood shovel handle (the long post hole sort not the short ones with D tops) once cut and shaped made a good hammer handle for me. I could choose the length and went longer rather than shorter.
Careful fitting is the key (Thank you Mr Bateup. - He was the old chap I gardened for as a teenager- He patiently guided the replacement of handles the young enthusiast broke)
Hammer once again Works a treat for me!

[bwal74]

Hi,

I picked up a old Cyclone Ball Peen hammer at work the other day, 24 ounce I think. Says made in Australia on it. I've seen Cyclone products in Bunnings but of Chinese manufacturer, are these the same brand?

Wooden handle that's copped a s*it lot of abuse too.

Ben

[Grahame Collins]

What about Mumme from S.Australia ?
To my knowledge they still still manufacture their own brand of hammers.
here in Oz.

There's not many Aussie tool manufacturers left and they are certainly worthy of our support.
Grahame

[Michael G]

Mumme is not a bad idea except that by their catalog they start with hammers at 24oz.

Michael