Checking a 2nd hand lathe?

[rsser]

My thinking ... comments welcomed.

1. Check for spindle run-out.
2. Listen to head-stock bearings with stethoscope; feel for overheating.
3. Check for slop in the ram and in the tailstock/bed mating.
4. Check live centre/drive dog point alignment
5. Check the bed for flatness.
6. Check cam clamping and other basic mechanicals.

[Oiliver]

If it is not a familiar brand, check the belt to see if it is perished/ will be easily replaceable. Also check out the gauge of the thread to make sure you will be able to fit your chucks, centers and other accessories onto it (or that you have an adapter available).

[jimbur]

And of course the motor.

[rsser]

True. But how do you check a motor?

[jimbur]

True. But how do you check a motor?
Listen to it for any weird noises and sounds of sparking. Take along a TV and see if it buggers up the reception. Only way to keep on the good side of the neighbours.:D

[vk4]

ensure hat the centers line up.

I didn't and got stuck with a lathe that was unusable for spindle work.

Jeff
vk4

[Mulgabill]

Are spare parts readily available?? cost of parts??

[RETIRED]

ensure hat the centers line up.

I didn't and got stuck with a lathe that was unusable for spindle work.

Jeff
vk4Why? Unusable for mandrels maybe but general spindle work the centres don't have to line up.

[NeilS]

My thinking ... comments welcomed.

1. Check for spindle run-out.
2. Listen to head-stock bearings with stethoscope; feel for overheating.

A long screwdriver with tip against the bearing housing and handle end against the ear will pick up any bearing noise. If standard size, not very expensive to replace, but time consuming.

3. Check for slop in the ram and in the tailstock/bed mating.
4. Check live centre/drive dog point alignment
5. Check the bed for flatness.

A pair of long winding sticks will check for twist.

6. Check cam clamping and other basic mechanicals.

Tapping castings with a small engineers hammer will help to pick up any cracks that have been painted over.

Check to see if there is any further adjustment available to keep the belt tight. New belts are cheap, but replacing them is time consuming.

[rsser]

Thanks Neil.

Winding sticks ... :2tsup:

[Paul39]

Finally after passing all the above tests, stick the biggest, hardest, piece of timber you are likely to turn in it and hog off some material.

I did all the checking on a Woodfast 410, brought it home and knocked apart all the rusted together bits, oiled and shined up everything, put in a piece of timber and found it was underpowered for the 1.5 HP Leeson DC motor and control.

Upon further investigation I found the controller was only making 90 volts at full speed as opposed to the 180 volts.

It was sold as a consigned piece through my local hardware store. The previous owner said that it worked fine for him in all the years he used it.

Possibly true, as it does fine on smaller bowls, but bogs down on big, hard, timber.

They offered to take it back, but by the time I had cleaned and oiled everything and used it a bit, it would take someone with a large caliber gun to get it away from me.

The price was low enough that I can repair the controller and still be way ahead of buying any used 20 inch swing variable speed bowl lathe.

[rsser]

Having crawled over a 2nd hand Vicmarc for a friend yesterday I should add check the MTs for galling, rust and crud.

[hughie]

I think for those who are not so mechanically inclined and or electrically or perhaps would just like their judgment backed up. They should get some advice from as an experienced turner to just run an eye over the lathe.

Luckily we have this forum and the advice flows freely and from what I have seen its darn good advice. :2tsup:

A timely post Ern as we have had a bunch of new turners rock up. :2tsup: