Bottoming/Plug Taps

[marty989]

Hi Guys,

Just got some tap sets from H&f but notice that there is a fairly large taper at the ends of all the taps. I was expecting the ends to be square at least for the plug tap like in the website photo. The threads are for M4 and 1/4" UNC. The 1/4" was to be used to make some camera mount equipment which has a short thread, making this set fairly useless. Do the smaller taps generally have this taper or does it just depend on brand etc?

Thanks

[nearnexus]

Hi Guys,

Just got some tap sets from H&f but notice that there is a fairly large taper at the ends of all the taps. I was expecting the ends to be square at least for the plug tap like in the website photo. The threads are for M4 and 1/4" UNC. The 1/4" was to be used to make some camera mount equipment which has a short thread, making this set fairly useless. Do the smaller taps generally have this taper or does it just depend on brand etc?

Thanks

Those are NOT plug taps.

Most of those are basic medium tapered taps.

You can either take them back or grind the tapered section off.

Rob

[marty989]

Thanks Rob, I thought as much. They are not as advertised :no: also not worth the cost of sending back.

Thanks

[nearnexus]

Yes, it's damn annoying when even the major retailers can't get it right.

Attached is a photo of what a plug tap looks like - from my collection :)

Rob

[Ueee]

I would let H&F know, they may do something as the cost to them for 6 taps should be minimal. As Rob said, i would just grind the tips off the "bottoming" ones. The smaller ones i have are ground to a point, about that of a drill point, i guess that makes sense as you are tapping a drilled hole......(up there for thinking tonight aren't i:doh:!)

The 4mm ones look better than the 1/4", or is it just the pic?

[Stustoys]

Thats not unusual in smaller sizes. Its a reverse center used in manufacture I believe.
Though on my cheaper taps they dont grind it off as Rob says, no idea why not, whats the point of three taps if the bottom isnt bottom?

The taps in Robs picture all normal centers

Stuart

[nearnexus]

There is actually one plug tap in the blue box at the top right in the original photo.

But the rest are just you're basic tapered job.

Rob

[nearnexus]

There is actually one plug tap in the blue box at the top right in the original photo.

But the rest are just you're basic tapered job.

Hang on - there might be one in the T801 box as well, hard to see.

Looks like I got a double post on this again when I tried an edit.

Rob

[Stustoys]

I think they all have three different tapers
Right hand in is the bottom in the left box
Middle one in the right box.
Once the centers are ground off of course.

Stuart

[marty989]

Sorry guys the original photo wasn't very clear. Here's one of all the "plug" taps with one from the 3/8" set I also purchased. It has squared ends but it's plug tap still has about 4 tapered threads compared to 2 on the Goliath on the far right.

241787

[Stustoys]

The two smaller ones dont seem to have as much taper but the 3/8 one certainly isnt a bottom tap.

Stuart

p.s. Little bit of a highjack, While Goliaths web page says "HSS Taps & Dies are all manufactured in Birmingham, England." Does anyone know if there tap and dia handles are? I've just bought a few and some of them dont look very English. To late now I guess lol

[nearnexus]

I don't like those poxy little bar type tap wrenches that come in the tap and die sets.

My favourite is an old P&N tap wrench I got at a garage sale years ago. Has decent 3/4 " diameter handles and you can actually get a good grip on it and feel what's going on.

But I must admit that the small ones are OK for tight areas.

It's funny how you always gravitate back to the same favourite tools every time.

I must have about seven power drills of various sizes and I always drag out the same tired old 500 watt AEG job that I've had for about twenty years. It's on the third chuck and second set of brushes and the gearbox sounds crook, but it's just the nicest handling little drill you could ever want.


Rob

[jack620]

Stu,
I also have a Goliath T-handle tap holder and I reckon there's no way it was made in Birmingham! It's OK, but the thread just feels rough when I tighten it up. I've tried stoning the burrs off the collet part and cleaning the threads, but it still doesn't feel right. I also have a small old M&W I bought off Ebay which is as smooth as silk.
Chris

[Stustoys]

Thanks guys,
The more I look the less I am liking what I see, some of it is just nasty. Of the 10 tap handles and dia stocks I bought I'd say all 10 of them are from China.... and some of them not even from the good end of China.
Pity, their taps seem to be pretty good.
I only paid about $10 each for them so about right for what they are.(apart from the 2 hour drive to pick them up)
Looks like my search for good tap and dia handles continues.. either that or I just make my own.

Stuart

[jack620]

Looks like my search for good tap and dia handles continues.. either that or I just make my own.

Stuart,
I made these to hold dies on the lathe. I guess there are jobs where these wouldn't work, but I haven't come across one yet. I suppose cutting really big threads would be impractical with these. The larger one is double ended and takes 2 different size dies. The smaller one is single ended.

Chris

[Oldneweng]

I picked up a second hand P&N tap holder many years ago and several years ago inherited my fathers old P&N tap and die set. 2" dies and same tap holder. Great tools. I picked the 4mm tap in the pic as being close to a plug tap at least.

Funny I should read this post tonight as I tapped out an inline trailer socket earlier to 4mm and thought that the plug tap in my set should have the point ground off. Just to explain I was replacing the unknown size imperial steel screws that clamp the wires in, with stainless grub screws. I am sick and tired of replacing trailer plugs because the screws are seized and this being a socket was not cheap. I was tapping into the side of hole for the wire so the point was not helping at all. It bottomed on the other side of the bore. This tap set is a Australian made Sutton set and the points are much more acute than a drill.

Dean

[Dave J]

With my plug taps I grind them off at the end, it still need a little sharp taper but not a large one like they come with these days. I don't grind them when I buy them, just if the job I am working on needs a close thread at the bottom of the hole I do it then.

Dave

[Anorak Bob]

Thanks guys,
The more I look the less I am liking what I see, some of it is just nasty. Of the 10 tap handles and dia stocks I bought I'd say all 10 of them are from China.... and some of them not even from the good end of China.
Pity, their taps seem to be pretty good.
I only paid about $10 each for them so about right for what they are.(apart from the 2 hour drive to pick them up)
Looks like my search for good tap and dia handles continues.. either that or I just make my own.

Stuart


Stu,

I have a couple of GTD tap handles I purchased on US Ebay. Worth the search. WIDIA GTD 01292 Straight Tap Wrench, 1/16-3/8 In | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/190748568664?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D190748568664%26_rdc%3D1)

BT

[Oldneweng]

The discussion on tap handles prompted me to look at tap handles as I need more to cover all of the smaller sizes in a T type wrench. I noticed most of these style tap handles had a ratchet with the usual 3 options. Maybe I am missing something here but I would have thought that a ratchet would be a hindrance in the majority of cases. I know they have a fixed position but how often would a ratchet be useful? The other thing that is not apparent is whether they are suitable for top guided application? Do they have a centre hole and can they be pressed on the top or does this operate the ratchet mechanism?

Edit

Just saw a picture with the ratchet control switch on the side.

Dean

[pipeclay]

Most if not all of the better brand Tee handles will have a centre in their end.
The ratchet style are useful in situations where you cant get a full turn on the tap,its is easier than using a spanner.

[Anorak Bob]

Stu,

I have a couple of GTD tap handles I purchased on US Ebay. Worth the search. WIDIA GTD 01292 Straight Tap Wrench, 1/16-3/8 In | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/190748568664?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D190748568664%26_rdc%3D1)

BT


PS Here's a few snaps. The Eclipse tee handled holders are disappointing. Screwing the knurled chuck feels rough. The guided Encos in comparison are smooth as is the Butterfield.

[Stustoys]

You aren't helping me feel better BT ;)

A couple of examples.
While removing the burrs wont be an issue, straightening the slot out could be tricky. Though it shouldn't be hard to beat their de-burring effort. Notice the little oops saw cut.

Nicely centered slots in the screws!
For some reason a counter bore in the large tee handles.


With a little be of cleaning up I should be able to bring them up to usable.

I'll keep an eye out for something better.


Stuart

[Oldneweng]

Most if not all of the better brand Tee handles will have a centre in their end.
The ratchet style are useful in situations where you cant get a full turn on the tap,its is easier than using a spanner.

That was one of the ideas I had. Bit awkward to keep reversing but I guess it still makes it easier. Better control of angle than a spanner. Do the handles generally slide for one sided application?

I have a little one from a cheap as chips carbon steel tap and die set which has a sliding handle. That and the thread guage are the only bits of that set that are any good. The taps and dies are ok for cleaning up threads but can someone explain to me how you are meant to cut a half inch UNC thread with a 1" die which fits into an aluminium holder with walls about 4mm thick and is held in place with a tiny bolt which is just threaded into this 4mm thick aluminium.

I am glad I have collected all the taps and dies I could over the years, not to mention the inheritance. I love 2" dies. Much nicer to use than smaller ones.

Dean

[Oldneweng]

PS Here's a few snaps. The Eclipse tee handled holders are disappointing. Screwing the knurled chuck feels rough. The guided Encos in comparison are smooth as is the Butterfield.

I have a nice T style holder that handles from about 8mm up to ?. Anything over 8mm and I use the cross bar type of which I now have 2 identical ones to choose from. The T handle is good to get the tap started using the drill press and the sleeve I fitted to it. This sleeve is the reason why I don't know what brand it is, but it feels like a good one. The sleeve is pressed over the major diameter with oversized holes to press the handle back in.

All of my tap holders have only 2 jaws. I can see 2 and 4 jaw in the pics. Any preferences?

[Oldneweng]

You aren't helping me feel better BT ;)

A couple of examples.
While removing the burrs wont be an issue, straightening the slot out could be tricky. Though it shouldn't be hard to beat their de-burring effort. Notice the little oops saw cut.

Nicely centered slots in the screws!
For some reason a counter bore in the large tee handles.


With a little be of cleaning up I should be able to bring them up to usable.

I'll keep an eye out for something better.


Stuart

Nice slots! My T handle holder has a centre hole in its end like that. I used to use a centre, mounted in the drill press to align the holder vertically. The fact that I had to turn myself inside out to do it this way was the main reason for fitting the sleeve. Being right handed I did not trust my left hand not to break small taps.

Dean

[nearnexus]

In my collection of taps and dies, holders etc. I have a neat little home made tap holder (not by me) that is really simple and works extremely well.

Maybe you guys have seen this fairly old design before, but here's a photo just in case you haven't, and think about making one.

The handles being slightly off set is not an issue, and it is strong and much better than the rubbish that comes with most Asian tap and die sets.

I got it at a garage sale.

It's unscrewed/loosened off in the photo so you can see how its constructed.

Rob

[Ueee]

To add to the tap holder discussion, Bruce and I recently bought some of the tapping guides from CDCO. The concentricity of these is appalling, with both of mine the tip if the tap is around 1/8" off center. Frank has not replied to our emails regarding the matter either.

I mostly use an old P&N holder, or a smaller t type (poor quality). I love the P&N.

[Stustoys]

Ratchet handles might be handy with gun taps and lower % thread depth?(though a cordless drill would likely be ok then anyway lol)

Hi Dean,

The tommy bars in these Tee handles are swaged* on one end but a loose sliding fit with no lock or detent so fall out all to easy.


Nice slots!
Thanks lol
I have a short length of round bat I mount in a drill chuck to guide the back of the handle(much like what CDCO now sell but its not locked in there so just the tee handle needs to move when starting the tap.


Hi Rob,
Thanks, I think I'll add that to the list.

Hi Ewan,
Concentricity of a tap giude? how would that matter? (think I might be missunderstanding you but I cant find them on the CDCO site)

Stuart

[Ueee]

They are designed to go into a tailstock chuck or mill/drill press chuck to ensure you tap straight. They are just like t handles only they are taller and drilled for the bar that goes in the chuck.

[Stustoys]

Hi Ewan,
I saw those. I see your problem now, I thought you meant something else. Along the lines of a piece of pipe with a flange on it thats held against the work piece.

Stuart

[Anorak Bob]

You aren't helping me feel better BT ;)

A couple of examples.
While removing the burrs wont be an issue, straightening the slot out could be tricky. Though it shouldn't be hard to beat their de-burring effort. Notice the little oops saw cut.

Nicely centered slots in the screws!
For some reason a counter bore in the large tee handles.


With a little be of cleaning up I should be able to bring them up to usable.

I'll keep an eye out for something better.


Stuart

Stu,

I'll post over the shorter fatter Eclipse. Whilst I've whinged about it , it has to be better than those Oriental handles.

My die stocks are all older P & N. I used to use a newish 1" stock, also P & N, and always disliked it. The dies would wobble and a couple of the screws snapped. Then I found the older pair in the photo. They work well.

[Oldneweng]

Ratchet handles might be handy with gun taps and lower % thread depth?(though a cordless drill would likely be ok then anyway lol)

Hi Dean,

The tommy bars in these Tee handles are swaged* on one end but a loose sliding fit with no lock or detent so fall out all to easy.



Stuart

I ground off the swage(?) on one end of my little one's tommy bar at one point for some reason. I think I tried mounting it in the drill press for guided tapping. Found that did not work. Not enough grip with the chuck and of the chuck. For a while after I just held the tommy bar on with a bit of plastic hose (tiny). Was probably wire insulation as the bar is only 4mm diam max.

Dean

[Oldneweng]

Stu,

I'll post over the shorter fatter Eclipse. Whilst I've whinged about it , it has to be better than those Oriental handles.

My die stocks are all older P & N. I used to use a newish 1" stock, also P & N, and always disliked it. The dies would wobble and a couple of the screws snapped. Then I found the older pair in the photo. They work well.

The biggest one in that photo looks a bit similar to the one in my inherited set, except mine is red. That set is older than me by the way. Well over 25 yrs.

Dean

[Anorak Bob]

Dean,

You asked about the 2 and 4 jaw "chucks". The 2 jaw holds the tap more rigidly than the 4 saw cuts.

When I was making a little oiler adapter the other weekend, I used a die rather than cut the short M6 thread with the lathe. I did use the lathe for the job but rather than struggle with the die stock held up against the tailstock barrel, a three handed job, I did this -

[Stustoys]

Hi BT,
I better get to and finish off your christmas present then!(though I'm not sure which Christmas it will be for lol)
Thank you
You wouldnt have M2.2 screw over there would you?(at least I think its M2.2 :( )

Hi Dean the plastic hose sound like a winner.

Stuart

[Anorak Bob]

Hi BT,
I better get to and finish off your christmas present then!(though I'm not sure which Christmas it will be for lol)
Thank you
You wouldnt have M2.2 screw over there would you?(at least I think its M2.2 :( )

Hi Dean the plastic hose sound like a winner.

Stuart

Not here in Boomtown Stu. I was on German Ebay looking for exotica and found these - NSR 804839 Metric Body Screw M 2.2 x 6.5 (10) | eBay (http://www.ebay.de/itm/NSR-804839-Metric-Body-Screw-M-2-2-x-6-5-10-/390502895533?pt=Rennbahnen_und_Slotcars&hash=item5aebc94fad)

Might be RC shop fare over your way.

BT

[Stustoys]

Not here in Boomtown
Yes things are likely to be a little bigger over that way.

Its not M2.2 anyway. Its major Dia is just under 2.2mm but its 60tpi, though if I had to pick a thread form I'd say its BSW......I might just make one lol

Might be time to get out the tracing paper and the optical comparator.

Stuart

[franco]

Yes things are likely to be a little bigger over that way.

Its not M2.2 anyway. Its major Dia is just under 2.2mm but its 60tpi, though if I had to pick a thread form I'd say its BSW......I might just make one lol

Might be time to get out the tracing paper and the optical comparator.

Stuart

Stuart,

Not 8BA?

8BA thread spec: OD of screw 2.18 mm, 59.1 TPI, 47.5 degree thread angle, with rounded crests and valleys like Whitworth.

FWIW I was in a bearing supply shop in Atherton last week and noticed he had individual Australian made Sutton 1" diameter button dies up to at least 10 BA in stock. I had been "sort of" looking for some BA dies for a while but I hadn't ever seen these before - usually the modern available BA dies seem to come in model makers' sets in carbon steel and smaller ODs which require a special die holder and haven't impressed me. They were not cheap, ($24 each), but I bought the common sizes of 2, 4, 6 and 8 BA. I don't often need them, but they are very handy to have for the odd occasion when they are needed. If they had been a bit cheaper I'd have bought the full set.

Other than in model making, BA threads were common in pre-metric instruments and electrical fittings. You might be lucky enough to find a suitable 8BA replacement screw in an old electrical fitting, otherwise possibly in a model maker's shop.

Frank.

[Oldneweng]

Dean,

You asked about the 2 and 4 jaw "chucks". The 2 jaw holds the tap more rigidly than the 4 saw cuts.

When I was making a little oiler adapter the other weekend, I used a die rather than cut the short M6 thread with the lathe. I did use the lathe for the job but rather than struggle with the die stock held up against the tailstock barrel, a three handed job, I did this -

Very nice. How did you turn it? Hand turn the main chuck?

I have extended 1/2" W threads for fencing use by using my lathe on slowest speed (16rpm) or maybe the next one (?) and hand holding the die holder. I have one hand on the clutch lever and one on the die holder. I can disengage the clutch and stop the lathe before the handle hits the bed. Its in the gap anyway.

Dean

[Stustoys]

Hi Frank,
Thanks, it could be 8BA. Of course I only have 9BA and 6BA, so no quick check. I'll try checking it tomorrow. Though something close will do as its not going to be under much load.
I must make up a thread chart that lists them all by dia and tpi/pitch.

Stuart

[Anorak Bob]

Very nice. How did you turn it? Hand turn the main chuck?

I have extended 1/2" W threads for fencing use by using my lathe on slowest speed (16rpm) or maybe the next one (?) and hand holding the die holder. I have one hand on the clutch lever and one on the die holder. I can disengage the clutch and stop the lathe before the handle hits the bed. Its in the gap anyway.

Dean

Yep, by hand. I just started the thread with the die in the chuck then finished it with a stock. I tried power threading once with a die in a stock. From memory it was an M8 thread on some 4140. The thread was about 90mm long. All turned to xxxx when the die became extremely hot and ended up galling the thread. Yet another lesson learned.

BT

[matthew_g]

Dean,

You asked about the 2 and 4 jaw "chucks". The 2 jaw holds the tap more rigidly than the 4 saw cuts.

When I was making a little oiler adapter the other weekend, I used a die rather than cut the short M6 thread with the lathe. I did use the lathe for the job but rather than struggle with the die stock held up against the tailstock barrel, a three handed job, I did this -


Hi BT.
Just wondering what the small 3 jaw chuck is?
I was thinking it was off a mini lathe, But I'm not sure. But the setup looks great for a multitude of things.

Thanks Matt

[Anorak Bob]

Hi BT.
Just wondering what the small 3 jaw chuck is?
I was thinking it was off a mini lathe, But I'm not sure. But the setup looks great for a multitude of things.

Thanks Matt

Hi Matt,

It is a little Sherline chuck. It's threaded 3/4" x 16. I turned up a 2 Morse arbor to suit to which I can fit a 3M sleeve enabling its use in the Hercus headstock. It has proved to be extremely handy over the years. Even used it in the Vertex rotary table for milling stuff in my height deficient Hercus mill.

Sherline 1041 - 3 Jaw Self Centering Chuck [3/4 - 16] ...NEW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherline-1041-3-Jaw-Self-Centering-Chuck-3-4-16-NEW-/261114854902?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ccba87df6)

Bruce liked mine enough to buy one of his own. Bit of luck he might let us know where he bought it.

Their 4 jaws look neat too.

BT

[Oldneweng]

Yep, by hand. I just started the thread with the die in the chuck then finished it with a stock. I tried power threading once with a die in a stock. From memory it was an M8 thread on some 4140. The thread was about 90mm long. All turned to xxxx when the die became extremely hot and ended up galling the thread. Yet another lesson learned.

BT

I had no issue with heat. I used RTD spray. The dies were 2" P&N. 1/2" Whit is a lot tougher to cut than M8. The MS rods I was using had damaged threads. The ends were seriously mushroomed. I cut the end off which left me with maybe 20 - 25mm of thread. This was then extended to 50 -60mm. I used them to make gate hinges (weld pins on), long bolts etc.

I had hundreds of these rods once. They came from work. Part of a barrel storage method that has been discontinued. Most were burnt. The rods were used to keep timbers in place. I recall seeing an 8ft x 4ft x 3ft bin half full of the complete rods pulled from the fire after a burn. The galv was burnt off and all rusty by then. Sometimes the stupidity of people in this world defies belief. Most of what I had have been used up.

Dean

Dean

[Anorak Bob]

Dean,

The heat would have been generated as a result of the bar being too large at 8mm. Being book informed I did not realize that the diameter should have been undersize. I had machine cut the thread. I was using the die to clean the thread up.

Bob.

[Abratool]

Hi Matt,

It is a little Sherline chuck. It's threaded 3/4" x 16. I turned up a 2 Morse arbor to suit to which I can fit a 3M sleeve enabling its use in the Hercus headstock. It has proved to be extremely handy over the years. Even used it in the Vertex rotary table for milling stuff in my height deficient Hercus mill.

Sherline 1041 - 3 Jaw Self Centering Chuck [3/4 - 16] ...NEW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherline-1041-3-Jaw-Self-Centering-Chuck-3-4-16-NEW-/261114854902?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ccba87df6)

Bruce liked mine enough to buy one of his own. Bit of luck he might let us know where he bought it.

Their 4 jaws look neat too.

BT
Just happened to notice the mention of the Sherline Chuck.
Yes, I got the idea of the chuck from Bob.
Its a little beauty!
Used it only yesterday, however have found it a very useful piece of equipment.
I use mine primarily in a Hercus Indexing fixture, the fixture has an internal 3 Morse Taper.
So when I ordered my chuck I purchased it with a rear internal thread of 14mm by1mm to accept a
3 Morse taper male piece which was threaded to 14mm -1mm ( this was a piece I already had )
To ensure it does not come off when machining with milling cutters etc I put a drop of loctite on the threads & also made up a draw bar to hold it in the fixture.
Purchased it direct from the USA mine is a part 1031 2.5" OD threaded 14mm 1mm
Contact is....242435 [email protected]

regards
Bruce

[matthew_g]

Hi Matt,

It is a little Sherline chuck. It's threaded 3/4" x 16. I turned up a 2 Morse arbor to suit to which I can fit a 3M sleeve enabling its use in the Hercus headstock. It has proved to be extremely handy over the years. Even used it in the Vertex rotary table for milling stuff in my height deficient Hercus mill.

Sherline 1041 - 3 Jaw Self Centering Chuck [3/4 - 16] ...NEW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherline-1041-3-Jaw-Self-Centering-Chuck-3-4-16-NEW-/261114854902?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ccba87df6)

Bruce liked mine enough to buy one of his own. Bit of luck he might let us know where he bought it.
I
Their 4 jaws look neat too.

BT

Thanks for that BT,
I have an old 2" Pratt Bernard 4 jaw chuck I bought by
Accident on Ebay that I have just found a use for thanks to
you fellas.
I bought it in its last few seconds thinking it was a 200mm
chuck as the seller had one listed as well, turned out I was in
such a hurry I hit the wrong one.lol
This little 4 jaw looks like it has never been used, so my thoughts
are a setup like yours but I might make it a live chuck.
Again thanks for that.
Matt

[Stustoys]

Thanks, it could be 8BA.

Fired up the comparator and came up with 48.5 degrees.

Just so we dont think its only the Chinese that stuff up, here is a blade from my Moore and Wright thread gauge.

Maybe its me! lol

Stuart

[Michael G]

I'm thinking BA as well. This chart is from an old Blackwoods catalogue - it may be of interest. I think Sutton tools do (or did) a large thread chart too.

Michael

242530

[Anorak Bob]

Stu,

If you think that an 8BA die would help you out, I'll send you one with the Eclipse "upgrade".

I have to ask. What are you trying to fix?

BT

ps. That thread gauge looks like a poor attempt at saw sharpening.:no:

[Stustoys]

Hi Michael,
Thats the sort of thing I was thinking about.
Something that lists most of the common threads by Dia the pitch/tpi.
maybe there are to many to make it much use?

Hi Bob,
I'll try cutting an 8BA tomorrow and see how it goes.
I'm making a special tip for a dial gauge.
Would you believe I have two rolls of tracing paper(though I'm not sure thats really its name) in the shed. Couldnt find it and had to use baking paper on the comparator! lol

Stuart

p.s. Yes, it wasnt their best work.

[Oldneweng]

Fired up the comparator and came up with 48.5 degrees.

Just so we dont think its only the Chinese that stuff up, here is a blade from my Moore and Wright thread gauge.

Maybe its me! lol

Stuart

Have you got a tap and die to match that thread profile?

Dean

[nearnexus]

Had need of a 10 x 1.25 mm tap today and as usual I have everything except that pitch.

Fairly common small engine crankshaft nut size/pitch, but I seem to be without.

Priced HSS jobs at Gasweld and nearly had a heart attack.

So doing the job another way, BUT bought these cheapies off Ebay - slow boat from China I expect.

eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251173181638&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:AU:3160)

Let you know how they turn out :)

Cheers

Rob