Sliding compound mitre saw

[cliff cook]

Okay guys a curly one for you. I`m thinking of getting a sliding etc saw the only problem as usual is lack off lots of cash.The only ones i can find at the moment are either $1400 or $200 with coresponding features.While i`m not a pro i`m not what you`d call a occasional user either.Any suggestions on a machine that won`t break the bank but won`t break after 5 minutes either?
thanks
cooky

[Iain]

I thought about one for a while and went off the idea, I use my table saw with mitre gauge or the dreaded triton...

[Shane Watson]

I have a Makita compound mitre saw. Don't like it. Never have. for some reason when cutting longer pieces in half or basically when you have to use the full length of the fence the stock won't sit tight against the fence. It actually sits out about 1-2mm where the blade goes through, so to get a 90 degree cut I need to cut twice.... Nothing I do can fix the problem ( well I am sure there is somthing, but nothing basic ). And I have learnt to live with it and have no problems other than that... If I were to replace it I would opt for the Dewalt I think. But I certainly think they have there place in the workshop. I hate using the table saw for crosscuts etc.
Cheers...

[Al Burdon]

I bought a "Chinese" compound slide saw for about $300 Aust and use it regularly. A bit of buggerising around to get the alignment marks correct but it now works like a dream.
As with any electrical tool keep it clean and don,t overload it and you should be right. Also its better to blow a couple hundred dollars to find you dont like it than a grand to find the same. Compare the features of the expensive ones to the cheaper ones and see what yu can bare to live with.

[John Saxton]

Hi Cookie I bought an Elu compound mitre saw with a negative rake blade that I find gives a good clean cut for picture frame mitres.
Cost around $750 a few years back and they are still around.
To date haven't found fault for my applications.
Cheers http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

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Johnno

[cliff cook]

Thanks for the imput guys a mate of mine has just put me onto a shop a couple of suburbs over that imports there own make ( a rippoff copy of the makita ) for $450 so i might nip over and have a look. Can`t hurt and it`s in my price range.
Thanks for the advice.
cooky

[Johnno]

John Saxton - you have tickled my fancy (giggle)
Can you tell me vot is diss negatif rake blade? Do you haf ze plans?

An enquiring mind needs to know...

Johnno

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[John Saxton]

Hi Johnno,negative rake on the saw blade relates to the angle of the teeth on the blade.
Whereas most saw blades have their teeth projecting forward in an angle of attack or positive rake the ELU PS 174 model that I use has the teeth slightly angled back from the perpendicular,thus enabling the timber being held against the fence of the saw by the action of the blade cutting towards the fence and thru the fence aperature.
The timber is still held physically but only to keep in line with the fence.Because the of the applied forces with the blade rotation this makes it not only comfortable to use but also gives a fine cut with a 216mm blade 60 teeth with a maximum depth of cut at 52mm and a maximum width of 252mm.
As I have a large radial arm saw this was a better choice for those fine angle cuts for picture frames/crown mouldings and was an easy choice when I saw the saw being demonstrated some years back now.
Cheers http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

[Johnno]

Thanks John - now all I need to do is find a negative rake blade to fit either my 9" Makita or the toy GMC 'mitre saw'.
I practically had to draw such a blade before the 'salespersons' at two of our local hardware chains understood enough to tell me that they didn't stock them, had never heard of such a thing, and had no idea where I could get one.
Such is the delight of living in the Nation's Capital!
Thanks - I at least now know what to hunt for...

Johnno (dammit, there's a lot of us!)

[Rod Smith]

G'day blokes
My understanding of the negative rake blades, particularly when used in ras and the like, is that the negative rake means the saw does not try and take large 'bites', making for better control and safety. A positive rake blade is good for ripping on a table saw but on a ras will pull the saw through the wood forcefully and you'll have to hold it firmly to stop it overloading and stalling (or worse).
I recommend going to a saw works and ask the people that know. Also they will have brochures with lots of different blades with explainations of their design and uses. My saw works also has second hand blades. Forget the h/w stores.
Cheers
Rod

[Iain]

Fitch AJ & DJ
13/18 Whyalla St Fyshwick
ACT 2609 Saws Ph: (02) 6228 1622