Best blade for MDF and Plywood

[noodle_snacks]

I am after a blade primarlily for use with MDF and Plywood, what is the best type of 10in blade to use?

[Harry72]

I've been using a makita CT 10" 64t ATB blade on MDF for a few years, its still holding up after all this time.(made many speaker boxes with it)
It doesnt leave any burn marks so its still got a edge on it, used it to cut some jarrah the other day it barely needs sanding.

[David L]

A fairly fine TCT for a clean cut, keeping in mind that MDF can dull a blade very quickly
because of the dirt on the logs being used. Do not have to much blade protruding from the cut

[noodle_snacks]

ATM i am probably going to go with a 60-80 tooth TCT blade, sound about right? Harry72, i am interested in your speaker projects... (i am building some MTMs using a Seas 27TDFC and Peerless HDS Nomex woofers very shortly actually)

[Harry72]

I dont do it much any more, just cant be bothered in designing them.
The boxes are easy, its getting the Xovers correct which involves much electrical wisdom and test tools... after all they are the brain of the speaker.
Id realy love just to be able to buy complete componets only kits, no one in aust does it without spending thousands...
At the end of the day its just a speaker, many of the internet speaker boffins just over proca$tinate on stuff thats lucky to make .000001% difference, ie those fancy speaker wires that cost thousands or boxes that are made from extremely thick wood that are braced heavily enough that they could park a massive dumptruck on it without collapsing it! .
Anyway back to the subject, MDF does not dull TCT blades all that quick yes it kills HSS blades.
IMHO the reason why most peolpe dull cutters/blades on MDF is the feed rate, fast is better you'll notice it burns easy if you go to slow...
All my cutters have lasted years of use, obviously if you used them on a production basis they'll wear out quickly... just like normal woods!(except crapiarta...)

[soundman]

The best blade depends on what you are after.
If you want a realy realy smooth cut and arent in a hurry a tripple chip blade with a reverse rake ( like is used for aluminium ) cant be beat & it'll do a good job on veneered board.
On the other hand if you want a bit of speed and a reasonable cut an alternate top bevel blade of arround 50 teeth is good.
from there trade off speed v's finish & price.

On the subject of crossovers. I build my own & wind my own chokes.
Crossovers are an interesting subject. I personaly prefer simple designs with quality components. Some of the commercial items use very complicated and often poorly built crossovers.
My crossovers are built for high power boxes so my methods may not suit little Hi Fi boxes.
cheers
P.S. nobody has ever blown up one of my crossovers :D

[Harry72]

Yep I too started winding my own aircore inductors from 1.6mm wire!!!, kills the fingers!
They end up hugely massive for large values, especialy for the 100-300Hz area@8ohms. I was trying to make a 12db for 8" low midbass(visatonW200SC)for my centre channel, in the end I used much finer wire with a iron core... still havent used it yet!
Its a catch22 you either use expensive drivers that dont need much correction and only need the lower slopes, or you buy cheap drivers and make up for it in the Xovers.
I've priced out some of the Xovers I have made following other peoples designs... using premium parts in a basic LR 3way cost upwards of $500 per unit, **** hate to build a 7.1 system with em, $3.5K just on the Xovers, might as well buy Flex unit custom built drivers and make it a $30k+ system! Christ that reminds me must check Xlotto numbers...

P.S. If your wondering why I was crazy enough to use 1.6mm wire I got a 30kg roll for free!
Soundman who do you get your PA speaker supplys from?
Cannons online sell P.audio have you tried their drivers out? What about Soundlabs Group?

[doublejay]

I realise that this is a woodworkers forum, but check these out

[Harry72]

Wave guide bass bins and horns, bah poor mans stuff... well at least he is now!

[soundman]

I've used quite a lot of Eminence & & found it quite a good brand Similar limitations to most MI brands, the distributer has just droped them. Soundking do some quite respectable "cheap" stuff.
Selenium, I've used a few of their concentric 12's.
I'm investigating a new local supplier of generic "my brother he make just same" gear. This guy has a a scan knock off ribbon tweeter of very nice quality for peanuts. He does a plain 2226 coppy for under $200.
The P Audio I know some people who have used them But I havn't. Their compression drivers all seem to run out a bit too low in the top end (SSHHH the rock trogs will never know) Sorry have used some of their flares.

As for 1.6mm wire, thats what I use. I have a devius winding machine & work with a rag.
I have a crossover 4 ohms at 150Hz 6dB/oct. Its a hand full.
As for these "real HiFi nuts" I'm always fascinated by their selective understanding.
As for component prices.
If you buy the "officialy funky" capacitors & the speaker wire with arrows on it showing which way the signal flows you and your money will soon be parted.
Using "sound theory " and inteligent selection you can easily achieve beter than good results without needing to be both rich & stupid.
But don't get me started. :D
cheers

[noodle_snacks]

I am glad to see that there are some others into building speakers here actually :) However my 19in monitor just died so i won't be ordering my new woofers (tweets are here already) until it is replaced :(

[Grunt]

I get amazed at hi-fi wankers who judge the sound of a system with an ociliscope.


Anyway, here are my woofers. (Sorry, any opportunity to show off my dogs)




http://www.users.on.net/~gril/wwfuploads/BenchDogs.jpg

[Harry72]

I guess youre the one in the middle?

[Grunt]

I guess youre the one in the middle?


Yes and you don't know how difficult it is to use hand tools when you don't have any.