Help with finishing rough grain in red cedar

[ndp_2010]

Hi,
I turned a couple of bowls (red cedar) and the wood is rough in some areas as shown in the picture. I was wondering if I used a grain filler to prepare the surface could i then use oil to finish it. I bought some scandinavian oil that i intend to use on the wood once I get it smooth.
Any advice is much appreciated.
Thanks :)

http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af352/Natural_Defence_Plant2/2a/ID3_1820.jpg

[Greg Ward]

I'd gently sand and sand and sand using soft sandpaper and then use oil, fillers can make a poor finish as they are sometimes a different colour to the timber.
Greg

[Mobyturns]

Unfortunately Red Cedar can go furry and do this. The only true remedy is to use ultra sharp tools & light shear cuts or lots of sanding.

[ndp_2010]

thanks for the fast replies, Ill have a go at snading and maybe next time try resharpening my tools.
much appreciated :)

[Tony Morton]

Hi NDP
When the sharp tools and sheer scraping fails these hairy ends can be controlled to a certain extent by using sanding sealer thinned shelac etc it hardens the fibres and allows the paper to cut the hairy fibres. also hand sanding against the rotation of the turning hope this helps.

Cheers Tony

[ve7twg]

From the land of Red cedar.
Yes to the other guys, very sharp tools,in reverse if you have it and lots of sanding. They look great if every thing goes well.
George

[artme]

Sanding is the go, I know from experience.

Apparently one way go is to dampen the are and then sand lightly.
Haven't tried this but a couple of well respected old time turners at
my old club swore by this method.

[ian thorn]

Yes sanding sealer let it dry 12/24hrs then sand , I allso use water ether a damp rag or a misting spray bottle

Ian

[WOODbTURNER]

I had the same problem with some very old dried out Norfolk Island Pine. The end grain was just tearing out as it was so dry. I soaked it in a 50/50 cheap dishwashing liquid from Woollies and water. After the NIP was saturated I drained off the excess and let it dry for a few hours. It was like turning green wood with long shavings and no end grain tear out. I owe Ron Kent a beer. The photo is the result and is 250mmH x 220mmDia x 2-2.5mm thick finished in DO.246075

[TTIT]

I had the same problem with some very old dried out Norfolk Island Pine. The end grain was just tearing out as it was so dry. I soaked it in a 50/50 cheap dishwashing liquid from Woollies and water. After the NIP was saturated I drained off the excess and let it dry for a few hours. It was like turning green wood with long shavings and no end grain tear out. I owe Ron Kent a beer. The photo is the result and is 250mmH x 220mmDia x 2-2.5mm thick finished in DO.246075:think: I'll have to give that one a try!

[WOODbTURNER]

TITT,

I was so impressed with the detergent/water treatment that i went and bought two boxes of 99 cent 1 litre bottles from Woollies. It's amazing how much the NIP soaks up. I'll have two more bits of dried out NIP soaking tomorrow. They say it's good for drying out green timber too but that can wait till I get back from Bali.

[mick61]

Its the type of timber that frustrates inexperienced turners try some Morton bay fig or black heart sassafras,similar issues will present there selves. Mick

[Tony Morton]

The diluted shelac will be dry in less than five minutes I find its the quickest way.

Cheers Tony