Making Skipping Rope Handles

[brendan stemp]

A few months ago there was a thread created by someone wanting to get some skipping rope handles made. It was from Jenine who has a small business in Melb called Skipping Pepples (look it up on Gaggle). Well, there was very little interest from others so I decided to throw my hat in the ring and the result is that I have now made over 120 of them.

Another result is this video. I thought I would make it to not only show how they were made but also some of the production and turning techniques I used. I hope you get something out of it.

Turning Skipping Rope Handles - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvDaiH-WA9c)

My plan is to make more How-To videos to put up on You Tube so if you want to be kept in-the-loop subscribe to my channel. By doing so you won't be signing up to a whole lot of SPAM but will simply get an automated notification when I post a new video. You might also like to offer me some suggestions on what videos you would like to see me make (keep it clean!)

[Bruce White]

:2tsup:

You make it look simple Brendon - thanks. Look forward to more.

[Ilya]

Thanks for sharing! I was expecting you to do a few jumps over the finished skipping rope in the end :U

[turnerted]

Thanks Brendon
Interesting to see a production turner's approach to the project.
Ted

[tea lady]

I thought you didn't like worrying about going fast. :hmm: "Production turning" hay?

Well done making the video. :)

[dr4g0nfly]

Brendan,

interesting video,

The rounding cut you made with the skew, we call it a 'Peeling Cut', you didn't but I'd be suprised to find it's not the same thing to you.

I've seen the upside-down push cut before but never managed to master it (always get a torn finish) so after watching this, maybe I'll go put some real practice in.

Thanks for posting.

[mick59wests]

terrific to watch :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

cheers

Mick

[issatree]

Hi Brendan,
Great Video, liked it a lot.
I was asked to make a couple a few years ago, but my Lady wanted Bearings in the Handles.
Didn't really know how to go about it, so I left them alone.
The Bearing of the one I had to copy, was a real Elcheapo.
Couldn't find them anywhere.

[brendan stemp]

Thanks for all the feedback. Much appreciated. I am enjoying doing them so there will be more. Subscribe to my chanel and you will receive updates when I upload more. In fact I uploaded another one last night but it's a bit boring (there's a pun there so you will have to watch it to get it).

Dragonfly: I wasn't really explaining too much about my techniques in the video but I'm happy to call it a peeling cut. As for the upside-down push cut, I do like it myself but it does have its issues. The problem is with this way of using the skew the fulcrum point is not in line with the point the cutting edge contacts the timber so there is a tendency for the skew to roll into the timber and create the circumstance for a catch. I will be in England in May this year so perhaps we can catch up and talk about it more.

TL: Thanks for your comments. Coming from the school of turning I was interested in what you might have to say about it. However, I have never said I don't work quickly, particularly when the job is as repetitive as this one. I may have said that not every turner want to work quickly but wasn't necessarily referring to myself. As you know, there are times when you need to work quickly and times when you want to just to get the job over and done with. My work with the recorders is, on the other hand, not one of these jobs but most of the other stuff I do I am trying to get it done as quickly as I can without puttiing too much pressure on myself.

[besttools4u.com]

That was a very interesting vidieo ,,, i play around turning wood down and like your jig for drilling those holes and also the jig for turning the wood to right size and length ,,,,,, some thing are so simple but if you dont know ,,,, Great job :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[nz_carver]

Nice video mate grate to see woodturning being taken out of the dark age and being stuck on YouTube :2tsup:

I do have 2 questions
1 when the camera is off and your in turning mode what sit of time is it taking you to make one?
2 why the scraper? And not a spindle gouge?
Spindle gouge ,spindle work?

[tea lady]

TL: Thanks for your comments. Coming from the school of turning I was interested in what you might have to say about it. However, I have never said I don't work quickly, particularly when the job is as repetitive as this one. I may have said that not every turner want to work quickly but wasn't necessarily referring to myself. As you know, there are times when you need to work quickly and times when you want to just to get the job over and done with. My work with the recorders is, on the other hand, not one of these jobs but most of the other stuff I do I am trying to get it done as quickly as I can without putting too much pressure on myself.Ah well. I guess those questions about speed you put up were "Dorathy Dixers" then. :U Not quite sure what you mean about "'s school of wood turning. :hmm: I'll take it as a compliment. :cool:

A few more comments though. Have discussed with in the past about the use of the skew "point down" while turning, not just for "v" cuts and parting off, some time ago. He was having a comparison with someone else who used it that way and the conclusion between them was that the cutting edge still was at the same angle to the wood. Just the handle of the tool was at a different angel. Is a little bit heart stopping watching you roll the ends over with the skew point down. Looks like you are pretty close to catching there. :C I find it more relaxing to have the point up as your handle is more dropped down.
It is also paradoxically a stronger (even though relaxed ) way to hold the chisel as your arm is straighter rather than bent up towards your arm pit. You are then using the natural structure of the body rather than muscle.

You didn't really say why you sanded before you did the cove. Since you sand again after the cove with the inertia sander I not sure why that is necessary. :hmm:

The cove could be done with the roughing gouge if one doesn't have one of your negative rake scrapers. Would be hard getting such a shallow cove with a smaller round bar spindle gouge. Would be great with a wide "traditional" spindle gouge, but not many people apart from has them in their collection. I have a nearly worn down cast off that was deemed "to short" at work. They are great for long shallow coves that are just that bit too deep for a skew.

[brendan stemp]

Nice video mate grate to see woodturning being taken out of the dark age and being stuck on YouTube :2tsup:

I do have 2 questions
1 when the camera is off and your in turning mode what sit of time is it taking you to make one?
About 5 min for each one. I have to do 10/hour to make it worthwhile.
2 why the scraper? And not a spindle gouge?
Using a spindle gouge would make it so much harder to get a consistent shape. It would be a different story perhaps if I did this sort of thing all week but I don't so I go for the option that is easiest. But the question back to you is "why use a spindle gouge?" The answer typically would be that it gives a better finish but with this wood I was able to get a finish off the scraper that only needed some 240 grit sanding. And that's a good enough finish for me! And that's the message I'd like to send to a lot of hobbyist turners: ie do what is easiest. Scrapers for beads and coves (on good timber) is so much easier to do for the hobbyist than rolling beads with a skew and cutting coves with a s/gouge. I know Ken Wraight does a scrapes a lot of his beads and I certainly scrape them on my recorders. But in both cases good, tight grained timber is being used.
Spindle gouge ,spindle work?

See response above

[brendan stemp]

Ah well. I guess those questions about speed you put up were "Dorathy Dixers" then. :U
Not quite. I was simply speaking on behalf of other turners, those that are more in the category of hobbyist.
Not quite sure what you mean about "'s school of wood turning. :hmm: I'll take it as a compliment. :cool:
Not a compliment or insult; just an observation on the fact has had a traditional training in woodturning and his work is typically production work.

A few more comments though. Have discussed with in the past about the use of the skew "point down" while turning, not just for "v" cuts and parting off, some time ago. He was having a comparison with someone else who used it that way and the conclusion between them was that the cutting edge still was at the same angle to the wood. Just the handle of the tool was at a different angel. Is a little bit heart stopping watching you roll the ends over with the skew point down. Looks like you are pretty close to catching there. :C I find it more relaxing to have the point up as your handle is more dropped down.
It shouldn't be heart stopping. I find it easier than the other way but perhaps this is all a matter of what you are used to. I have tried leading in with the heel tip but find I can't see the contact point well enough. I am planning another video that covers this and it will be on line soon. I'm sure it will be better explained then.
It is also paradoxically a stronger (even though relaxed ) way to hold the chisel as your arm is straighter rather than bent up towards your arm pit. You are then using the natural structure of the body rather than muscle.
Interesting, I will give that one some thought.

You didn't really say why you sanded before you did the cove. Since you sand again after the cove with the inertia sander I not sure why that is necessary. :hmm:
Yep, you're right, I didn't get back to that point. But that's typical of me. I get side tracked. THe reason I did it this way is that I found it better to sand the handle without the cove initially. Sanding with the cove cut resulted in the edges of the cove getting rounded over too much. And I used the inertia sander at the end only because I didn't want to keep moving the tool rest out and then back in and then out and then back in. It's all about time saving. THe inertia sander was used at the end to get rid of the concentric sanding scratches, as explained but I used 240 grit over 240 grit scratches just because it was a quicker method of getting rid of the aforementioned scratches.

The cove could be done with the roughing gouge if one doesn't have one of your negative rake scrapers. Would be hard getting such a shallow cove with a smaller round bar spindle gouge. Would be great with a wide "traditional" spindle gouge, but not many people apart from has them in their collection. I have a nearly worn down cast off that was deemed "to short" at work. They are great for long shallow coves that are just that bit too deep for a skew.
Very good point. No argument there but see response to NZ Carver for my reasons.


You make some excellent points TL. See in text responses above.

[wheelinround]

Brendan great work, done like most hobbyists would possibly do quickest way with tools at hand.

Other than this was a copy jig setup (http://woolnwood.blogspot.com.au/2009/07/jet-mini-lathe-copy-jig.html) for roughing down and forming all a quick scew and sand although rounded corners at the cove could be a problem. Much like the Woodfast Copy Turn (http://www.woodfast.com.au/index.php?p=1_11) or those very rare Symtec lathe (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/symtec-1500-sale-offers-around-1800-a-29294/) set up.

Of course these all depend on volume over time of making or buying such set ups.

[Sawdust Maker]

Thanks for the video :2tsup:

my only comment is that I'd use a dead centre instead of your collet chuck (but then that's what I've got)

[Drillit]

Hello Brendan,
Many thanks. Is your NRS as per the woodcut model.
I like the idea of using it for coves and the skew for
bringing to round. I had been using the bedan. So will give it a go. john M.

[brendan stemp]

Thanks for the video :2tsup:

my only comment is that I'd use a dead centre instead of your collet chuck (but then that's what I've got)

Thanks Nick. That's a good idea with the dead centre. I'm not sure that I have one with a 2MT. One problem however would be that when I rounded the end of the handle I like to cut into timber so that I don't get a timber burr around the hole. THis happened at the other end of the handle where I had to round it into the live centre.

[brendan stemp]

Hello Brendan,
Many thanks. Is your NRS as per the woodcut model.
I like the idea of using it for coves and the skew for
bringing to round. I had been using the bedan. So will give it a go. john M.

G'day John. It's a smaller version of the Woodcut NRS. It's the shape I used to design the Woodcut NRS but simply scaled it up in size for them. I have suggested they make a smaller version but I suppose it will depend on how the bigger one sells. If you want I can send you a template of the one on the video and you can shape one yourself.

As for the Bedan; I wouldn't be discouraging you from its ongoing use.

[nz_carver]

It is a bit of a worry to see you useing a skew to rough down the blank and not a roughing gouge Brendan , As in a way it give a message to people that have just started to turn and use YouTube as a tool to help in the lerning of woodturning that its a safe thing to use a skew to rough down a blank and to a roughing gouge

I know in turning it is much like skinning a cat there is 100 ways to get the job done,
and like most people we do what works for us but sometimes it's not the safest thing to do

I'm just pointing it out as a safety thing that's all


And you make reference to hobbyist turner
do that mean your a hobbyist turner ?

[brendan stemp]

It is a bit of a worry to see you useing a skew to rough down the blank and not a roughing gouge Brendan , As in a way it give a message to people that have just started to turn and use YouTube as a tool to help in the lerning of woodturning that its a safe thing to use a skew to rough down a blank and to a roughing gouge

I know in turning it is much like skinning a cat there is 100 ways to get the job done,
and like most people we do what works for us but sometimes it's not the safest thing to do

I'm just pointing it out as a safety thing that's all


And you make reference to hobbyist turner
do that mean your a hobbyist turner ?

Dave, how exactly is it unsafe. And while you're considering your answer ask yourself is my use if the parting tool unsafe. And what about my use of the scraper? Is that unsafe? I ask these questions because they use similar technique but are just different shaped blades. So I'm really quite bewildered by your comment. Just because it's a skew chisel doesn't mean it can't be used in this way and the fact the timber is mounted between centres eliminates the chance of the wood coming off the lathe. Suggesting this technique is unsafe means you think there is some danger in what I was doing. What is this danger??

I didn't use a roughing gouge because that would've meant using an extra tool which would've meant putting one tool down and picking another one up. And that eats up time. Not much time I know but it all adds up. And besides there was not point to using a roughing gouge. I achieved the same outcome with the curved skew.

Hobbyist turner? Now Dave, you know what I do for a living, so why do you ask this question of me? Perhaps I am a full time hobbyist turner because my job certainly stemmed from a hobby. But did I suggest I was putting myself in this category? If so, where?

[wheelinround]

Brendan in relation to Sawdust makers comment on using a dead centre if you did an internal rounding toward the hole where the MT2 would sit this would avoid contacting the metal.

[RETIRED]

I was going to stay out of this but someone has raised a valid safety issue.

Using a skew chisel in the manner shown i.e. a peeling cut to rough down is dangerous to a beginner.

Peeling cuts are generally reserved for forming tenons and then you use only half the cutting edge of a 25 mm skew.

If the angle is not presented correctly you run the risk of taking a shard off the whole corner and spearing yourself, at worst you can split the timber in half.

The roughing gouge is a much safer tool and was designed for this purpose. You could have done 3/4 of the job with the gouge and saved using 2 chisels.

The parting tool is generally used on timber that is round and has an even surface contact. If you use a parting tool on timber in the square you generally end up with splintered sides.

[wheelinround]

Dave you've been turning now for 3 or 4 years surely the blokes at Western and more recently Vic Turn fests have brought you out of the Apprentice mode by now. Safety is always paramount but Brendan's Skew use is something I was taught at school in year 10, back then spindle gouges were not around in the forms they are today.

So what would you have used to do that until they came into being???????

Isn't this the same use of a skew you use to tapper the end of pen blanks to bushes????

[brendan stemp]

Brendan in relation to Sawdust makers comment on using a dead centre if you did an internal rounding toward the hole where the MT2 would sit this would avoid contacting the metal.

If I understand you correctly then, yes this could work well but there might be a danger that if this small section of timber is unsupported the risk is that you could tear out the wood as you do this rounding cut.

For me it would not be feasible because it would add an extra two steps to the process. But as a suggestion for others to consider you make a good point.

What I was using was effectively a timber dead centre and I use these all the time when making the recorders. I need them to run true so with timber if they aren't then you can true them up easily by taking a light cut or two off.

[Sawdust Maker]

...

What I was using was effectively a timber dead centre and I use these all the time when making the recorders. I need them to run true so with timber if they aren't then you can true them up easily by taking a light cut or two off.

Ah, now it becomes clear! Wasn't clear to me that your dead centre was timber :doh:

[brendan stemp]

I was going to stay out of this but someone has raised a valid safety issue.

Using a skew chisel in the manner shown i.e. a peeling cut to rough down is dangerous to a beginner.

Peeling cuts are generally reserved for forming tenons and then you use only half the cutting edge of a 25 mm skew.

If the angle is not presented correctly you run the risk of taking a shard off the whole corner and spearing yourself, at worst you can split the timber in half.
There is a big "if " here. I wouldn't disagree with this comment but the "if..." is always the caveat with any instruction. IF when using a bowl gouge you don't present the cutting edge correctly then all hell could break loose. IF when hollowing into end grain you take too big a scraping cut then... etc. But the fact is I did present the tool at the correct angle, I was using a curved skew (this certainly reduces the chance of splintering), I did work from the RHS to the LHS again to avoid the chance of large splinters and I was using a 19mm skew which places less stress on the timber than would a 25mm skew. And I was doing this on a piece of timber that measured only 35sq x 170 long, which, if it did come off the lathe shouldn't present too much of a problem to someone wearing a face mask.

The roughing gouge is a much safer tool and was designed for this purpose. You could have done 3/4 of the job with the gouge and saved using 2 chisels.
Yes, but IF presented at the wrong angle could result in a shard spearing into the operator or the splitting the timber.

The parting tool is generally used on timber that is round and has an even surface contact. If you use a parting tool on timber in the square you generally end up with splintered sides.

WIth the whiff of rat lingering in the air my response is this.

The video wasn't meant to be an instructional video, just something of interest, showing others an aspect my production process. (In fact I was really just using this project to provide data so I could play with my new editing program).

If it was meant to be an instructional video then I would've explained a number of the techniques in more detail. So if anyone wants to criticise my technique on safety grounds then, by all means go ahead and do so but don't stop with my use of the skew. Really hook into me and comment on a few other things that were probably more dangerous; e.g using the parting tool and template with the wood spinning at 3000rpm (that's probably the worst thing I did but with those 'IFs' taken out of it, this technique is safe), using the skew with the toe downwards (there's some IFs there), changing the blanks over with the lathe still going and sanding with the tool rest in place.

, I know my techniques are sometimes (perhaps often) not to your liking but I am confident with what I am doing, have a good enough understanding of the alternatives and dangers but chose to do this process this way because it fitted in with what I was comfortable doing, efficiency, characteristics of the timber and desired finish off the tool. Yep, I could've used a roughing gouge to do those two steps but not as well as with the skew, particularly the straight taper. You might approach the project differently but you might also skin rabbits differently to me.

Perhaps the biggest mistake I made is not providing a disclaimer at the start of the video highlighting the fact the video was not meant to be instructional. But then again the need to do this irritates me because it means I need to cater to all those who insist on blaming others when they make a mistake. But such is the litigious nature of this world that I might just have to do it.

[Mulgabill]

Brendan! This has turned into a lively discussion!

I understand that your YouTube video was to demonstrate how you as a professional make skipping rope handles in a production environment and you also stated at the opening of this thread "Another result is this video. I thought I would make it to not only show how they were made but also some of the production and turning techniques I used.".

I have known you for many years, I know you would never consciously promote any unsafe turning practices. As you say there is more than one way to skin a rabbit.

Ignore the negativity and accept the constructive comments. Keep the YouTube videos coming.

[RETIRED]

WIth the whiff of rat lingering in the air my response is this. I have no idea what this is referring to unless it refers to whether or not this has been discussed amongst my peers. It has naturally.

The video wasn't meant to be an instructional video, just something of interest, showing others an aspect my production process. In your opening sentence you state "I thought I might show you how these are made."
As a person who is reasonably well known and in fact anyone who demonstrates has a duty to those who watch either in private tuition or public demonstrations via clubs or You Tube to show safe and tried techniques. The power of the demonstrator is phenomenal and that is why companies use the demonstrators they do. Monkey see monkey do. (In fact I was really just using this project to provide data so I could play with my new editing program).

If it was meant to be an instructional video That is the way it came across. then I would've explained a number of the techniques in more detail. So if anyone wants to criticise my technique on safety grounds then, by all means go ahead I have.and do so but don't stop with my use of the skew. Really hook into me and comment on a few other things that were probably more dangerous; e.g using the parting tool and template with the wood spinning at 3000rpm That is a perfectly legitimate technique. (that's probably the worst thing I did but with those 'IFs' taken out of it, this technique is safe),Agreed. using the skew with the toe downwards (there's some IFs there), It works better the right way up changing the blanks over with the lathe still going and sanding with the tool rest in place. Again, in production work perfectly acceptable but it needs to be shown how to do it. I have seen some very burnt hands and bruises because the right techniques or equipment was not used. Spur drives that are hooked over etc.

, I know my techniques are sometimes (perhaps often) not to your liking That is a personal thing because of my background. but I am confident with what I am doing, have a good enough understanding of the alternatives and dangers but chose to do this process this way because it fitted in with what I was comfortable doing, efficiency, characteristics of the timber and desired finish off the tool. That is acceptable in private. In private yes but this is public. What you do in your own workshop is your business and some techniques that I use to achieve an end I would never teach because unless you know the risks it is dangerous. Yep, I could've used a roughing gouge to do those two steps but not as well as with the skew, The point of my comment about safety above. Square timber is generally roughed down by starting an inch 2 in from the end and working back towards the end but in this case (5: 18 in the video) you put the skew straight in on the end. If you must rough down with a skew (it is a finishing tool) you start with a cut that breaks the corner by going backwards. Then it is what floats your boat, peeling or slicing cuts. or particularly the straight taper. You might approach the project differently but you might also skin rabbits differently to me. Possibly but the principles are the same in both cases.

Perhaps the biggest mistake I made is not providing a disclaimer at the start of the video highlighting the fact the video was not meant to be instructional. But then again the need to do this irritates me because it means I need to cater to all those who insist on blaming others when they make a mistake. That is the lot of a demonstrator. But such is the litigious nature of this world that I might just have to do it.Flame away.

P.S added a little bit.

[A Duke]

Guess what, I am glade I have never even tried to turn.
:wink:
Regards

[Bruce White]

Keep making them Brendon. Not all of us follow convention. I work on the principle that if it works for me (and I know I use some tools for purposes not intended) and I do it in as safe a manner as I can, it is right (for me).

We can all learn from others, even if the lesson only confirms that the different way we do it is right for us. Keep smiling!:U

[RETIRED]

Keep making them Brendon. Not all of us follow convention. I work on the principle that if it works for me (and I know I use some tools for purposes not intended) and I do it in as safe a manner as I can, it is right (for me).

We can all learn from others, even if the lesson only confirms that the different way we do it is right for us. Keep smiling!:USorry Bruce, but this was about safety for beginners watching not the techniques.

[Bruce White]

Sorry Bruce, but this was about safety for beginners watching not the techniques.


:2tsup:

[Christos]

Personally I like the video.

I look at it from a perspective on what can be achieved.

[RETIRED]

Dave you've been turning now for 3 or 4 years surely the blokes at Western and more recently Vic Turn fests have brought you out of the Apprentice mode by now. Safety is always paramount but Brendan's Skew use is something I was taught at school in year 10, back then spindle gouges were not around in the forms they are today.

So what would you have used to do that until they came into being???????

Isn't this the same use of a skew you use to tapper the end of pen blanks to bushes????Spindle gouges have been around since at least 1680. http://www.historicgames.com/lathes/tools.html

[brendan stemp]

Well , I might just concede you are right on some of the points you have made. I acknowledge I may have some responsibility to demonstrate safe techniques and if I don't, then I should provide some caveat/disclaimer at the beginning of the video. To this end I have added such a paragraph to the synopsis of this video.

However, I don't agree with your assertion that my use of the skew was dangerous and you seem to have ignored some of my in-text responses, particularly the point about the " IFs " in woodturning instruction.

You assert that two of my techniques are "perfectly acceptable/legitimate" practises/techniques but ignore the big IFs.
E.g. using the template with the parting tool to size the different diameters is a "perfectly acceptable practise" according to you. I agree. But, IF the corners of the template aren't rounded over, a sharp parting tool isn't used with a peeling action and the width of the PT isn't wider than the template then this is probably one of the most dangerous things I could've done. The result, a template catching or jamming in the wood.

THere's always IF's with any woodturning and I mention this because you seemed to be selective in choosing when you wanted to use this word. I quote: "If the angle is not presented correctly..." but then you later say the use of the template is perfectly acceptable without any IFs.

And to explain all these IFs within the 15mins allowed on YouTube would probably have been difficult. But I will be more careful next time. I am grateful for this discussion because it means that I am getting feedback that I can use to make better videos, which I plan to do. In fact I'm off to do one now.

[RETIRED]

Well , I might just concede you are right on some of the points you have made. I acknowledge I may have some responsibility to demonstrate safe techniques and if I don't, then I should provide some caveat/disclaimer at the beginning of the video. To this end I have added such a paragraph to the synopsis of this video.

However, I don't agree with your assertion that my use of the skew was dangerous and you seem to have ignored some of my in-text responses, particularly the point about the " IFs " in woodturning instruction.

You assert that two of my techniques are "perfectly acceptable/legitimate" practises/techniques but ignore the big IFs.
E.g. using the template with the parting tool to size the different diameters is a "perfectly acceptable practise" according to you. I agree. But, IF the corners of the template aren't rounded over, a sharp parting tool isn't used with a peeling action and the width of the PT isn't wider than the template then this is probably one of the most dangerous things I could've done. The result, a template catching or jamming in the wood.

THere's always IF's with any woodturning and I mention this because you seemed to be selective in choosing when you wanted to use this word. I quote: "If the angle is not presented correctly..." but then you later say the use of the template is perfectly acceptable without any IFs.

And to explain all these IFs within the 15mins allowed on YouTube would probably have been difficult. But I will be more careful next time. I am grateful for this discussion because it means that I am getting feedback that I can use to make better videos, which I plan to do. In fact I'm off to do one now.Brendan. I was more concerned about the message being put across to people about the use of the skew in that manner to rough down.

Had you wanted a complete safety critique I would have elaborated further.

As for using a narrow parting tool with a template or callipers there is a member here very well versed in what happens. He nearly parted the timber off.:D

[Mobyturns]

...... The problem is with this way of using the skew the fulcrum point is not in line with the point the cutting edge contacts the timber so there is a tendency for the skew to roll into the timber and create the circumstance for a catch. I will be in England in May this year so perhaps we can catch up and talk about it more......


Brendan I applaud you for having a go & putting yourself out there. Generating any discussion on techniques & safety is good discussion - even if only to highlight that there are options, some of which greatly reduce or eliminate hazards / risk.

As a general comment I get concerned about those who wish to demonstrate or to post clips, and what they show. Sure it’s up to the viewer to sort thru the average to find the good stuff, what’s safe what’s not for them selves. I firmly believe however that demonstrators who post stuff to an open audience (i.e. You Tube etc) have a duty to present techniques that do not rely upon above average tool skills; or a reasonable degree of awareness of the hazards; or require a significant level of attention and / or skill to reduce risk. Unless the demonstrator highlights the hazards, these are things many turners may not understand yet in their turning journey. A moment of inattention, or not realising just how important sound stock is, or how little margin for error there is in tool presentation, or deviation from the demonstrated “process”, may lead to a quite dangerous situation or be very interesting to say the least for inexperienced turners. As for the tool techniques you use, and hot changing blanks, these were common enough high volume production turning practices when there were only o/h belt driven lathes and are still used by some skilled production spindle turners even today.

May I offer a suggestion that hand holding a work piece on the drill press and the use of the wrench to hold the work piece on the lathe might work OK for you however they aren’t the safest way of performing those tasks for others. The addition of a quick ratchet clamp on the jig is an easily made & significant improvement. As sized stock is being used and with multiple blanks in a small to medium production run setting up a jig with the use of a “sled” on the lathe ala Ken Wraight on p57 in the January Australian Woodworker would reduce the production steps. Both are much safer options and greatly reduce hazards & risk in the drilling operations. Another option would be to consider a design change to the handle so that a shallower wide hole was required and a longer narrow hole to compensate. It’s always a trade off, weight vs function vs cost of materials (rope?) vs production time / labour & balancing risk in production work. However safety should always be paramount.

I’m not a fan of peeling cuts on square stock so personally my tool preference would be to use the wing of a 1” or 1 ¼” traditional grind spindle roughing gouge (maybe a continental gouge or a bedan) for the bulk of the waste removal & shaping including the shallow wide cove and a 1” skew to refine the finish, and the parting tool & template (or callipers) for sizing, and maybe some sandpaper.

Good work, hope we see more from you. I’m confident that you will take the constructive aspects of this discussion and apply them to produce safer clips, because we need plenty more “good” examples out there and yours are amongst the better produced ones.

[nz_carver]

Ok well it's taken me a day to two to reply as I had to pick my words and my wording befor I replyed, and it may have been Sean as rude if I did not reply to a question I'd been asked my Brendan

I'd first like to say sorry Brendan if you were thinking I was haveing a go at you I was not, I was just asking questions for with out questions and answers or minds cannot grow.

My asking if you were now a hobby turner was in some ways not as it came across as I know what you do as a job, it was se what's as a bit of cheek that did not come across that way as you had said that the woodcut NRS was a good tool for hobby turners, and you were using one, that's all it was

After picking up bad habits off other woodturners it has taken me sometime to get out of them
anyone who has spent time with me knows I have a OCD about 2 things
1 is safety and how it comes across when you show someone something.
2 is I like things to be clean ( I'm told still can't find things in his shop after my trip in September )

I may not seem that smart at times but I know there's a lot more to me then most people think,
I can see something and understand how and why it works that's why I had asked you Brendan why not a spindle gouge and a roughing gouge that's all it was ment by the question

I worked out along time ago woodturning is in someways monkey see monkey do
And if some is new to woodturning they may do the wrong thing with out knowing that's all

Ray as I had talked to you in the past about safety and safety in clubs And bad habits that are past on in clubs Is a big part of why I don't have a lot to do with clubs

turnaround down under, U turn, Q turn, are all open to the public to join in and turn my filling out the paperwork and paying the fee there is know handshake that has to be known no dance that has to be lured

the forum and YouTube is another way to get feedback it in know way is a dig at you Brendan its just feedback that is all,

oh just on that note after seeing your NRS at U Turn I got around to getting one last week it's a good tool leves a good finish, but on pine is another thing

And like I said in my first post good to see you getting woodturning out of the dark ages and on to YouTube

[Sturdee]

My two comments on this discussion.

1. The issue of safety warnings on a you tube video for a beginner turner. I thought there was adequate explanation that this was done by a professional turner and how he does it. Sure there could have been more warnings but to what extent do we have to go. Do we let the nanny state of mind stop people making things because some fool may try to copy a difficult procedure. I hope not.


2. The other is the use of a modified skew to rough down a small blank instead of a roughing gauge. I can not see the difference in using the roughing gauge, skew or bedan in this manner in the hands of a good turner. I too have used all three in that manner to save time and the only difference is in the quality of finish. So if Brendan gets a good enough finish and saves time there is no problem. I don't see there is a safety issue there for a good turner, as to a non good turner see point 1.

Keep it up Brendan.


Peter.

[brendan stemp]

In the hope the final word on this matter can be had I'd like to say this:

I have finally settled down and am calm enough to reflect on this whole matter which for me was about being criticised for demonstrating un-safe techniques. My initial reaction was along the lines of "well bugger you, I have made the effort to provide some information and entertainment (perhaps) and all I get from some is petty criticism."

I don't feel that way now. In fact I look at the criticism as being constructive (thanks Russell) and that in a way it was complimentary. Complimentary because there are some out there that obviously appreciate what I am putting up on YT and think my advise and demonstrations are worthwhile, so much so they are prepared to take the time to offer me some feedback.

I have taken this on board and hopefully what I do in the future reflects this feedback. I still don't agree with some of the assertions that some of my techniques were dangerous but I suppose this boils down to what we mean by dangerous. Is a small piece of wood flying off the lathe dangerous to a turner wearing a facemask? This is what Sturdee was getting at and I agree with his sentiments. I am reminded of the story a friend of mine was recently conveying. He does some maintenance work in a mine and told me that the beanies they wear on site in cold weather, under their hard hats have to be specially made with the seams sewn flat. This is so the seams wont cause a head injury if something falls on them. I do wonder about this nanny state sometimes.

And last of all, Dave, you have absolutely no reason to apologise. I understand too well the difficulties you have with expressing yourself in writing (the teacher in me has me correcting all your grammatical and spelling errors all the time) and I know how the sentiment of what is been written is often lost in the translation. But given these difficulties you still contribute to the forum and obviously are keen to learn. Yeah, you did get me a little worked up, but that's really no fault of yours.

Safe turning and subscribe to my You Tube channel to see if I get it right next time. Yes there will be a next time.