Parting tool by doug thompson

[chambezio]

The parting tool I use at the moment is a 5mm wide Marples. It does the job but needs continual touch ups with grinder more especially if turning Hardwood. The grinding angle gives me the pointy end on the bottom of the chisel.
I kind of fancy a diamond shape (I think, never used one)
just to give me clearance if parting off a big diameter.
I thought of a Doug Thompson made one as I have 2 detail gouges that are great. His web site has a (new to the catalogue) 12mm round one but he is calling it 1/8". Can some one tell me what it would look like? I can only think that it is 12mm rod stepped down to 3mm.
According to the site Doug says it "Cuts like crazy". I am tempted but would like more info

PS (My only other parting tool is made from a power hacksaw blade about 1.5mm cut. It works....but)

[brendan stemp]

I reckon the description he has provided is wrong. I have never seen a parting tool made from a round rod. I think he means that the steel measures 1/2" x 1/8". Just like the P&N or Sorby parting tools. I might email him.

BTW Woodcut Tools makes a diamond p/t. Carroll's can help you out with one of them.

[chambezio]

Thanks Brendan,
Doug may have made a typo. The description seemed a little weird.
Have you used a diamond parting tool? Do they perform better than parallel sided ones?

[nz_carver]

Iv got a P&N parting tool and love it and 2 or 3 sorbys there not to bad
Im not a fan of the diamond parting tool. But it comes down to what you like.
I'd ring Jim and see what he's got

[brendan stemp]

After a closer look at his website I think its just the method he uses to describe the different sections of steel. After all how do you differentiate between the the width and the .... um width?? of a parting tool. Width and height? Thickness and width??

I tend to prefer thinner parting tools. The diamond shaped ones are approx. 5-6mm wide at the cutting edge and this is too wide for my liking. If you want clearance just do a cut and a half. I would agree with Dave, the P&N is about as good as they get although I too have P/Ts made from hacksaw blades and they are excellent and I prefer my 2mm over all the other P/Ts I have. Sorby are fine but are shorter than the P&N.

[nz_carver]

P&N make a 10x10 beading tool it makes a monster marring tool

Ps Brendan I think there's something up with ya website to :?

[Paul39]

As I do not spend hours parting, I use an old carbon diamond and a bread knife.

For up to about 40mm I use the bread knife, 50 cents at a junk store. It is made so that it is thickest at the top. I ground off the sharp edge and rounded it a bit with sandpaper. At right in photo.

For going deeper I use the diamond parting tool. Left in photo.

To prevent binding start your cut, then make another right beside a bit deeper than the first. Keep alternating until you are done.

As I have a grinder one foot from the end of my lathe, usually running while I am turning, it is no problem to give the tool a quick swipe when it needs it.

The screw driver in the middle of the photo is what I use to make a spigot or recess in the bottom of the bowl.

I save my $$ for good, expensive bowl gouges as the better steel lasts longer between sharpenings. It takes more time to fit the jig and sharpen the bowl gouge than parting tools, scrapers, or skew.

[Pat]

I'll throw another name into the ring . . . Gary Pye's (http://www.garypye.com/Turning-Tools/GPW-Turning-Tools/Parting-Tool-s-c99/) Parting tools, I have a couple of the 1/16th (1.6mm) version. I also use P&N diamond tips in 2 different sizes.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I tend to agree with Paul39 and have much the same 'selection' of parting tools as he.

Good diamond parting tools are alright, but there are plenty of shonky ones out there as well and I don't mean just metal quality. When viewed end on, the two 'side points' of the diamond must be aligned with each other, else they can be a right PITA to use and sharpen, as the cutting edge must be from one point to the other.

I'm not a fan of 'em myself, as I've had the occasional chip drop down from above and wedge in between the top of the diamond and the wood. Not so bad that it caused any serious grief, but enough to make withdrawing the tool difficult... and I don't like that. (Especially in panic situations! :rolleyes:)

Personally I use two different types:

- a 6mm sq tool sharpened as a bedan. With this I make a double-width cut in either scraping or cutting mode depending on how the timber handles. However, at only 6mm thickness I've already put a noticable bend in the shaft even though I rarely use it more than a couple of inches over the tool rest.

- a linoleum cutter's knife which is 3mm(ish) thick at the top and tapers to 2mm(ish) at the bottom. With this one I only feel safe when rubbing the bevel on the top front quadrant during a cut... in scraping mode there's too much chance for an unexpected 'side twist & finger slam.' But it has the reach and 'vertical thickness' to part off up to around 6" from the tool rest. :2tsup:

[chambezio]

Thanks for all your replies.
As usual, on this Forum, a question is answered quite quickly.
I will see what is available in 3mm thickness. As has been said diamonds seem to be quite wide and thats what I don't want

[Jim Carroll]

The primary advantage of the diamond parting tool is for sizing on spindle turning.

The point is generally wider than most calipers so gives you the wider clearance cut so the calipers do not bind on the sides of the timber.

They need to be sharpened so the point is even with the raised part of the blade, if not it can pull down or push up during the cut

[chambezio]

Thanks for the reply Jim.
I think I have talked my self out of the diamond shape.Your P&N parting tools, how are they ground, cutting edge on the bottom with one grind or cutting edge in the middle with 2 grinds?
You have a 3mm one which would work with my calipers. I wouldn't want to go any wider. 3mm would give me the versatility to use it on spindle work of face plate work

[brendan stemp]

I emailed Doug Thompson who replied to my query about the diameter terminology by saying that he always uses round stock for all his tools and mills it to create the flat for the parting tools .

Has anyone used any of his tools? They are not very prevalent in Aus but they seem, from my reading of the review, to be very impressive tools.

I will be ordering some to test them out.

If you want a thin parting tool then Sorby have a good range and are food quality

CWS Store - Robert Sorby Parting Tools | Carroll's Woodcraft Supplies (http://www.cws.au.com/shop/category/-robert-sorby-parting-tools)

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Has anyone used any of his tools? They are not very prevalent in Aus but they seem, from my reading of the review, to be very impressive tools.

I can't speak for his parting tools, but I have a few of his cryo bowl & spindle gouges that I use just for finishing cuts. Very, very nice. IMHO, of course.

[Jim Carroll]

Thanks for the reply Jim.
I think I have talked my self out of the diamond shape.Your P&N parting tools, how are they ground, cutting edge on the bottom with one grind or cutting edge in the middle with 2 grinds?
You have a 3mm one which would work with my calipers. I wouldn't want to go any wider. 3mm would give me the versatility to use it on spindle work of face plate work

All the P&N parting tools are ground to the centre.

As brendan indicated the Robert Sorby has the 1/16" parting tool ground lower but the rest like the P&N are on centre.

[Sawdust Maker]

I emailed Doug Thompson who replied to my query about the diameter terminology by saying that he always uses round stock for all his tools and mills it to create the flat for the parting tools .

Has anyone used any of his tools? They are not very prevalent in Aus but they seem, from my reading of the review, to be very impressive tools.

I will be ordering some to test them out.

If you want a thin parting tool then Sorby have a good range and are food quality

CWS Store - Robert Sorby Parting Tools | Carroll's Woodcraft Supplies (http://www.cws.au.com/shop/category/-robert-sorby-parting-tools)

There have been a couple of group buys of the Thompson tools - I'm happy with the ones I have, they seem to require less sharpening than the P&N which I like as well

I also believe that someone is importing them now - Pop's shed maybe, Nah not on their website

[nz_carver]

SQ woodturning supplys have some of the Thompson tools
I am a fan of the Thompson tools

[WOODY70]

SQ woodturning supplys have some of the Thompson tools
I am a fan of the Thompson tools
Yes that is correct.

Thompson tools are available from S/E Qld working supplies.
A new shipment is on it's way.
See S/E QLD Woodworking Supplies (http://www.woodworkingsuppliesqld.com.au)

cheers
Dave

[Sawdust Maker]

SQ woodturning supplys have some of the Thompson tools
I am a fan of the Thompson tools

Thanks Dave!

[NeilS]

Yes that is correct.

Thompson tools are available from S/E Qld working supplies.
A new shipment is on it's way.
See S/E QLD Woodworking Supplies (http://www.woodworkingsuppliesqld.com.au)

cheers
Dave

I also like the Thompsons*.

And that's a good price on them. About the same as buying directly from Doug, when you factor in the OS postage.



* and the D-ways, and the P&Ns, and the HTs. I'd probably also like the Woodcuts and Hitecs if I had some of those as well... but there is only so much steel that you can use up in a lifetime... :rolleyes: