AHHH rust

[cliff cook]

G`day guys I have a slight problem,I`ve just given my new JET table saw a coating of dry glide to keep the rust off and i thought i`d give my scrollsaw the same treatment. The problem is that due to lack off space it has been stored down in the back shed,of course the b$#^%&^ things gone rusty. The thing is do i sand it down or just cover it over with somthing(killrust ?)
thanks
cooky

[Kev Y.]

I would be tempted to attack the rust with some fine steel wool, then apply the dry glide.



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IF at first you don't succeed, relax your normal.

[Iain]

In addition to the steel wool apply a little WD40 to the work surface then steel wool, mop up the slurry with a rag, works for me when the dreaded patina hits. Helps to prevent further rust too.

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: http://community.webshots.com/user/iain49

[John Saxton]

Cookie, a mate of mine uses citric acid on old steam engines that he is recovering and restoring to working examples with very little effect on the metal according to him.

I have a coffee jar of the stuff and have used it in small quantities and it isn't as invasive as pearl caustic or other such other astringents.It does leave metal clean where you can put a fine coat of oil on.

Cheers http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

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Johnno

[DonN]

I use Liquid Engineering rust remover. I consider it the best thing since sliced bread. Read about it at www.liquidengineering.com (http://www.liquidengineering.com) it removes the rust but not the paint

[soundman]

good luck getting the rust off
keeping it off isnt as easy a some would think. i live in queensland and my shed is a little more humid than i would like. i have tried a number if things to keep the tops of my machines clean & shiny. by far the best is to use them regularly that helps.
but i have also found that car polish is realy good on those cast surfaces. i have tried bees wax, crc, ect but car polish i have found to work best so far.
it tends to cut fine rust film off and seals the metal reasonably well. i would re aply after using the machine and every month or so if not.
it tends to make the job slide smoother too.
suck it & see & lets hear back.

[ubeaut]

Using car polish is possibly also putting silicon on the work surface. Not really a good thing around timber.

I believe a lot of car restorers are using molases as a rust remover. It is supposed to be absolutely fantastic, and brings the metal back to virtually new. Might be wortha search on the www.

Cheers - Neil

PS I have often use our talc on the saw bench, thicknesser, etc. as a lubricant, it also helps cut surface rust. Maybe I should look at a wax formula for metal. Hmmm U-Beaut Machinewax. Nah don't like the sound of it. Maybe if someone could come up with a decent name I'd make it. http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/wink.gif

[Shane Watson]

Machine wax eh Neil? Hmmm what could we call that... http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/confused.gif argh bugger it, we still havn't had a winner for the bumper sticker comp....hahah.. So choose your own name.. http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/wink.gif mwahahah...

[RETIRED]

Slippery S**t?

Molasses is used widely for rust removal on Veteran and vintage car parts, however it is a long process that generally requires the parts to be immersed for days. Oh, and by the way: the smell is terrible http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/biggrin.gif.

I use a random orbital or belt sander to remove rust from any of the tables and then put a product called Seiberglietz on. It is specifically made for metal to wood contact and leaves no nasty residue to foul up the finish.

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Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

[Rod Smith]

G'day all
I use a non silicon car polish on my machine tables, works good protecting and helping the wood move. I still have to push a little bit though.
Cheers
Rod

[cliff cook]

Thanks guys I will try some of these remedies shortly and let you know how i get on.
cooky
P.S. Niel- Rustwax ? Castwax ? Ionwax ? YUK

[ken yates]

Just plain old hardwood floor paste wax makes for maintaining rust free cast iron tops. just rub on a good coat once every month and buff off. be careful makes for a very slick top don't want to read about any accidents here on the bb. does not leave any residue on the material when buffed off good.

[Justin]

I once left a green burl sitting on my (cast) bandsaw table for a few days, when I picked it up some surface rust had developed where the table contacted the burl.

I used 600 grade wet&dry sandpaper over a sanding block and lots of WD40 to wet sand the table back to rust free condition. It did a great job, IMHO it came up looking and feeling better than when I actually bought it.

Of course I've learnt my lesson now, and don't leave ANYTHING sitting on my machine tables, particularly green timber http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

In terms of preventative maintenance, a once a month or thereabouts spray/wipe with wd40 does the trick for me.

Cheers,


Justin.

[Shane Watson]

Hmmm I heard somewhere....I said heard so its probably not fact.... That WD40 actually speeds up the process of rust. Set me straight people...! Did I hear wrong or did I hear right... http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/confused.gif

[Iain]

Neil, U Beaut wax for saws, Better than RUSTIN, Hahahaha....... http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/biggrin.gif
Sure you would agree though.

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: http://community.webshots.com/user/iain49

[soundman]

I also use talc as a gernral purpose "clean" lubricant in the workshop, smells a bit sus though. on a totaly seperate note talc is the best lubricant for drawing wire through conduits, proven better than any of the commercial products.
silicon in car wax? wortwhile to consider.
Id steer clear of the molasis, very nasty stuff. think of the mess.


[This message has been edited by soundman (edited 23 April 2002).]

[Bushrat]

Cooky
Hi Mate,
just a shortie, I live on the tropical coast and rust is worse than sandflies here!.
I use a product called Lanoguard, any of the lanolin products will work, they form a slightly tacky layer over the bench top but this is easily cleaned off with metho and a paper towel.
Hope this helps
Bushie

[Harry]

Better late than never, printers use a spray on product which is silicon based as a anti- corrosive (sorry I forget the name but it's used extensively in the printing game). Be careful with any citrus based stuff, it may "melt" some plastics on contact. I use talc too but want to know more about how it contributes to the dust in the air.

[Eastie]

Harry: RE Talc

Unfortunately like most very fine particle dusts talc can cause problems.

It has a similar exposure standard to wood dust and as such if your using it in such a way that creates dust clouds (ie similar to sanding or sawing) you should look towards appropriate local extraction or personal protection equipment.

Talcosis has occurred in talc miners and millers, but pathologists often find this condition in autopsies of intravenous drug users, as it is used in the manufacture of certain drug that are designed to be taken orally, not intravenously - a bit like shooting up Mylant antacid I guess.

Again like most things it's hit and miss. You might use talc everyday for 50 years and not show any adverse signs or symptoms. On the other hand ...

The following link gives the technical info: http://www.nohsc.gov.au/ohsinformation/databases/exposurestandards/az/talc.htm

Hope this helps,
Mark

[This message has been edited by Eastie (edited 06 May 2002).]

[soundman]

Re talc and hazardous dust.
Looks like I need to instal a dust extraction system in the bath room.
And put a box of dust masks next to the tooth paste.
http://www.ubeaut.biz/smiledunny.gif

[Harry]

Thanks Eastie my fears confirmed.

[Eastie]

an old saying - everything can kill you if applied in the right dose, or at the right velocity http://www.ubeaut.biz/smileygun.gif ____________________________ http://www.ubeaut.biz/dizzy.gif


Sorry , back to rust ....

[This message has been edited by Eastie (edited 07 May 2002).]

[Hoffy]

For keeping off machines with cast iron or bright iron surfaces I use Johnstons paste floor wax abailable from Wollies etc. It contains no silicon and works well. Just rub it on with a clean cloth, let it dry for 5 then polish it with a clean cloth. If light surface rust exists put it on with steel wool.

Keith

"May everything you have keep rust free"

[Eastie]

I have used tri-flow for a while.
It contains teflon and does not contain silicone. I got hold of a litre when working with an ex-airline where it was used as an industrial moisture displacer, rust inhibitor and anti-friction agent.
You can now get it in small pressure packs from firearms dealers, bicycle shops and the like.
One of the better aspects, other than the lack of friction surfaces end up with, is that it does not attract or bind dust to the surface. As for rust proofing - I took an unplanned dive with a rifle while crossing a river. 2 days later I thought the action and barrel would be stuffed, but no sign of rust was found.

Mark

[Glen Bridger]

For light rust, the WD40 and fine steelwool or scotchbrite is all you need. If its a bit heavier try blasting with glass or fine sand.
Before using industrial acids/rust removers, make sure you can completely remove, wash or neutralise the solution or your problem will be compounded.Also they can make small pits in the surface into bigger ones.
As for WD40. About 10 years ago, AMRL did testing on about ten corrosion preventative chemicals for the Air Force. WD40 rated very highly but was not used in Service because it does not carry a MILITARY SPECIFICATION.
Remember for short-medium term corrosion protection you can just use engine oil. Its cheap,works very well and can be cleaned off quickly with turps.

Glen

[This message has been edited by Glen Bridger (edited 28 May 2002).]

[Red neck]

I go along with Glen. I keep an old tin of sump oil (drained out of the mower at the last oil change) specifically for the saw tables, jointer, and drill press.

But I have found that if I am away for a spell, dust settles on the equipment and the first sign of wet, soaks up the humidity and sets off the rust process. Even with sump oil. So I would recommend removal of dust, give ‘em the oil treatment and toss a couple of old drop sheets over your equipment when not in use,

[Glen Bridger]

Use new clean engine oil. Sump oil contains all sorts of nasty stuff after reacting with fuel and extreme heat.

Glen.

[John Saxton]

Further to all the above posts I'll offer Cookie another option...and that is get a hold of all the old Sheets that you throw out and cover any surface susceptible to rust with these.
I have always done this and not a spot of rust anywhere...particularly handy when going away for long periods ...come back straight into using your gear without increased friction caused by rust...the sheets absorbing most moisture content.
Of course this might also depend on where you live and whether you're more likely to get more humidity in your shop,but with my drop cloths I'm more than happy.
It keeps 'Er Indoors happy knowing that there is further use for those toe-nail ravaged sheets http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif.

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Johnno

[Red neck]

Damn it Glen. Just when I thought I could get a few more miles out of my sump oil, you toss me a curved ball like that.

Guess I'll have to pay the waste levy.

Red Neck

[cliff cook]

Gee guys that caused a case of info overload.I`ve not had the time to try anything yet as i`ve bit the bullet and banished the car to the driveway, knocked out a wall and am now building all sorts of goodies to fill up the empty spaces.If that seems like a lot of work to fit in a rusty scroll saw your probably right but i`m having so much fun i don`t care. HMMM i feel a router table coming on!
cooky

[soundman]

Listen cookie I think you are getting the idea. More wood work is the cure for most ills. A well used tool never gets the chance to rust. http://www.ubeaut.biz/thumbupwink.gif