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Flyson
28th February 2013, 07:28 PM
Hey guys, new to the forums. This is my first post so apologies if this is conflicting with any of the forum rules.

Anyway I need some help with my year 12 major project, Just a few questions.

Here is what I'll be making: Ana White | Build a Benchright Coffee Table | Free and Easy DIY Project and Furniture Plans (http://ana-white.com/2012/02/plans/benchright-coffee-table)

Ok some questions:

The website uses Pine for this project, But I will be using Jarrah as I heard it is a better choice. Is this correct?

Is Jarrah strong? Will it crack if I put a small nail in it?

Is Jarrah easy to work with? (Does it glue to other timber easy, does it crack easy etc)

Why is it so expensive?? Got quoted $501 for this project. But thats fine, just curious.

How long would this coffee table last if made correct?

Will it look good in your opinion when complete without anything added to the timber like stains etc?

Do you have any tips for me?



P.S if anyone could convert these measurements into metric would be appreciated.

2 – 1x12 @ 4 feet long
4 – 1x3 @ 22 ½” long
4 – 1x2 @ 16 ½” long
6 – 1x3 @ 16 ½” long
1 – 1x6 @ 48” long
2 – 1x6 @ 21 ¾” long
4 – 1x2 @ 21” long
2 – 1x2 @ 19 ½” long
4 – 1x3 @ 46 ½” long
8 – 1x3 @ 3 ¾” long
4 – 1x3 @ 16” long
4 – 1x3 @ 17” long
2 – 1x4 @ 19 ¼” long
2 – ¼” plywood @ 18 ½” x 16” - The plywood is for the base of the drawers.
5 – 2x6 @ 44 ½”
2 – 2x6 @ 27 ½”


Cheers. Michael.

aney
28th February 2013, 08:54 PM
hi Micheal
i'm also doing my woodwork for the hsc this year and have been made by my teachers to do the majority of my portfolio already and so have done most the research so here's a good website for the information on jarrah Jarrah (http://www.monarotimber.com.au/sp_jarrah.htm) with the stains and stuff it depends on what you like i guess if you get scrap from the jarrah trail some different finishes and stains before you get to that stage i guess. and if it will look good depends where it's going adn your personal preference

for converting the feet and inches to meters/millimeters here's and alright website Feet And Inches To Meters Calculator (http://www.csgnetwork.com/csgcvtftin2meterscalc.html)

Flyson
28th February 2013, 09:08 PM
hi Micheal
i'm also doing my woodwork for the hsc this year and have been made by my teachers to do the majority of my portfolio already and so have done most the research so here's a good website for the information on jarrah Jarrah (http://www.monarotimber.com.au/sp_jarrah.htm) with the stains and stuff it depends on what you like i guess if you get scrap from the jarrah trail some different finishes and stains before you get to that stage i guess. and if it will look good depends where it's going adn your personal preference

for converting the feet and inches to meters/millimeters here's and alright website Feet And Inches To Meters Calculator (http://www.csgnetwork.com/csgcvtftin2meterscalc.html)

Thanks alot

Master Splinter
28th February 2013, 10:12 PM
Is Jarrah strong? Will it crack if I put a small nail in it? It's been used for railway sleepers and wharf timbers...and it is more likely to bend a small nail. Predrilling is recommended.
.
Is Jarrah easy to work with? (Does it glue to other timber easy, does it crack easy etc) Like many Australian timbers, it is hard and dense and can have a high silica (sand) content, so it can be a good way to blunt tools. It glues well, and machines well with sharp tools but can be a bit splintery. Oh, and dropping just the tabletop on your foot is highly likely to break a toe. Don't ask how I know (it was a top smaller than the one shown in your pic). Also, that'll be the sort of coffee table that is more likely to chip a shin bone than get knocked over if you stumble into it in the dark.

Why is it so expensive?? Got quoted $501 for this project. But thats fine, just curious. You're probably getting a price that includes cutting and dressing to the sizes you are after, so there's a fair wastage and labour component...it's cheaper when you source it directly from a sawmill and dress it to size yourself.

How long would this coffee table last if made correct? Assuming correct assembly and excluding accidents, the glue would be weakest part. The only glue that is time tested (by actual passage of time and not by artificial aging) is hide glue, and still-functional furniture assembled with hide glue was found in the pyramids. Is 4,000 years good enough?

Will it look good in your opinion when complete without anything added to the timber like stains etc? You'll have hard time staining jarrah to colours other than jarrah, unless you go for dark brown/black. I'd do the handles in brass, as it sets off the reddish-brown of jarrah very, very well.

Do you have any tips for me? See here for (what I think is) the best finish for jarrah - damnfinefurniture (http://www.sanding.damnfinefurniture.com/)

Flyson
28th February 2013, 11:48 PM
Is Jarrah strong? Will it crack if I put a small nail in it? It's been used for railway sleepers and wharf timbers...and it is more likely to bend a small nail. Predrilling is recommended.
.
Is Jarrah easy to work with? (Does it glue to other timber easy, does it crack easy etc) Like many Australian timbers, it is hard and dense and can have a high silica (sand) content, so it can be a good way to blunt tools. It glues well, and machines well with sharp tools but can be a bit splintery. Oh, and dropping just the tabletop on your foot is highly likely to break a toe. Don't ask how I know (it was a top smaller than the one shown in your pic). Also, that'll be the sort of coffee table that is more likely to chip a shin bone than get knocked over if you stumble into it in the dark.

Why is it so expensive?? Got quoted $501 for this project. But thats fine, just curious. You're probably getting a price that includes cutting and dressing to the sizes you are after, so there's a fair wastage and labour component...it's cheaper when you source it directly from a sawmill and dress it to size yourself.

How long would this coffee table last if made correct? Assuming correct assembly and excluding accidents, the glue would be weakest part. The only glue that is time tested (by actual passage of time and not by artificial aging) is hide glue, and still-functional furniture assembled with hide glue was found in the pyramids. Is 4,000 years good enough?

Will it look good in your opinion when complete without anything added to the timber like stains etc? You'll have hard time staining jarrah to colours other than jarrah, unless you go for dark brown/black. I'd do the handles in brass, as it sets off the reddish-brown of jarrah very, very well.

Do you have any tips for me? See here for (what I think is) the best finish for jarrah - damnfinefurniture (http://www.sanding.damnfinefurniture.com/)


Thanks for the info. Dont think ill be using a finish though because im scared i'll stuff it up on the last step.