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Scott
23rd March 2013, 09:20 PM
After a some decent procrastination I've made the leap and bought a Vicmarc VL175 bench mount lathe. I skimped on the stand because I'm on a budget. As you've guessed, I'm going to have to make myself a bench and have decided it'll be made from wood as I've got next to no metalwork experience.

I'm wondering if those who have the bench mount lathe can post some images of their VL175 lathe and bench. Could you also share some things which work for you in the design of the bench. Thanks in advance :)

And I have to give a big shout out to Brian and Chris from Pop's Shed (http://www.popsshed.com.au) who provided some valuable advice on purchasing the lathe. They also gave me a great deal on the lathe and accessories, very competitive!

Paul39
24th March 2013, 06:55 AM
If you are going to do bowls or spindles that require removing a lot of timber, consider a stand rather than a bench. With a bench you get a pile on top that has to be raked onto the floor, along with anything under the chips. If you do out of balance stuff, anything you leave on the bench gets vibrated onto the floor.

I like this, without casters and a shelf at the bottom for weight:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4261443244_0930a8c523.jpg

See: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=853&bih=484&q=wood+lathe+stands&oq=wood+lathe+stands&gs_l=img.1.0.0i24l2.1588.15808.0.19027.17.17.0.0.0.0.109.1669.7j10.17.0...0.0...1ac.1.7.img.1Tg-u6_ANJM

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=853&bih=484&q=wood+lathe+stand+plans&oq=wood+lathe+stand+plans&gs_l=img.12..0i24.83976.86509.1.90961.6.1.0.5.5.0.94.94.1.1.0...0.0...1ac.1.7.img.taVnfZGPoqA

If you are going to do large out of balance blanks, have a stout shelf on the bottom where you can put concrete blocks, buckets of gravel, dead car batteries, etc to keep things stable. You may also provide for bolting to a concrete floor.

If you are going to do pens and goblets, etc., anything you like will work.

See below for chips from a shallow bowl.

hughie
24th March 2013, 09:37 AM
If you are going to do bowls or spindles that require removing a lot of timber, consider a stand rather than a bench. With a bench you get a pile on top that has to be raked onto the floor, along with anything under the chips. If you do out of balance stuff, anything you leave on the bench gets vibrated onto the floor.



But at the end of the day you have bought a fairly serious lathe so go with a stand. Because you will in time get up to its max and a bench wont cut it.

I always build stands for my lathes, benchs, storage systems etc that get added to a lathe base always take a way from the stand effect and have an effect on stability.

jefferson
24th March 2013, 09:52 AM
The Vicmarc stand comes with the right bolt holes for the outrigger - which you will need if you are to make full use of the swivel head. I'm suprised that one didn't come up with your conversation at Pop's Shed.

Scott
24th March 2013, 09:52 AM
I always build stands for my lathes, benchs, storage systems etc that get added to a lathe base always take a way from the stand effect and have an effect on stability.

Just trying to get a grip on your thinking here Hughie, however I would think a wood bench (solid one at that) which is dyna bolted to the ground would be more stable than a stand? As space is at a premium, I was going to make a bench with drawers. For the legs I was thinking 100mm square with 100 x 50mm cross beams. If you think a stand would be better then I'll have to change my thinking. :think:

Thanks for your advice Hughie and Paul39, I value your experience.

Scott
24th March 2013, 09:54 AM
The Vicmarc stand comes with the right bolt holes for the outrigger - which you will need if you are to make full use of the swivel head. I'm suprised that one didn't come up with your conversation at Pop's Shed.

It did Jefferson. I'm going to buy the stand and outrigger further down the track when I can afford them.

Jim Carroll
24th March 2013, 10:40 AM
Scott use the shape of the original stand as your shape.

You need to be at least 6oomm wide at the base then shaped up to the same width as the lathe at the top.

This stops the rocking motion and adds more stability,that can come with out of round peices.

You also want a 5 degree slant on the front.

Dont forget ply bracing to stop the timber from racking.

By the by with the money you will need to spend on building a stand you wont be far of half the original cost of buying the lathe complete with the original stand.

Would be better to wait a while and purchase the complete unit and not waste money now and extra freight later.

Scott
24th March 2013, 11:01 AM
Would be better to wait a while and purchase the complete unit and not waste money now and extra freight later.

Or, would it be better to buy a VL200 long bed (because I think I'm being swayed by your opinion)?

Jim Carroll
24th March 2013, 11:19 AM
Or, would it be better to buy a VL200 long bed (because I think I'm being swayed by your opinion)?

You could do that , there is a 6 week wait as castings are in short supply.

But this would give you the extra time to save more pennies and get all the right gear the first time.

Scott
24th March 2013, 11:22 AM
Thanks for your advice Jim, might go down this road.

jefferson
24th March 2013, 12:26 PM
Scott, I wouldn't give the idea of a VL 175 away and replace it with a VL200. The 175 can do much much more if you use the swivel head. I use mine more than my LB VL300 if that is any recommendation.

Scott
24th March 2013, 12:30 PM
Scott, I wouldn't give the idea of a VL 175 away and replace it with a VL200. The 175 can do much much more if you use the swivel head. I use mine more than my LB VL300 if that is any recommendation.

Thanks Jefferson, I appreciate your feedback, it's this sort of advice I'm exactly after. Yes, the swivel head is definitely an attraction.

Scott
24th March 2013, 12:45 PM
Okay, after much grovelling to the good lady (and trust me, I was on my knees), I'll change my order tomorrow to a VL175 stand mount.

Thank you all for your advice and input.

(edit, what a good way to make my 2000th post!).

Paul39
24th March 2013, 01:20 PM
Whooee, nice set up!! You can build a set of two chests with drawers or compartments to set on the shelf.

If you don't like them there, you can build a base and set them one on the other behind you when facing the lathe.

Put the grinder on top.

Scott
24th March 2013, 01:24 PM
Whooee, nice set up!! You can build a set of two chests with drawers or compartments to set on the shelf.

Ooooh, good idea, thank you :)

pommyphil
24th March 2013, 01:38 PM
Okay, after much grovelling to the good lady (and trust me, I was on my knees), I'll change my order tomorrow to a VL175 stand mount.

Thank you all for your advice and input.

(edit, what a good way to make my 2000th post!).
Way to go Scott. :2tsup: Congratulations.

Scott
24th March 2013, 01:50 PM
Thanks Phil :)

jefferson
24th March 2013, 02:48 PM
Okay, after much grovelling to the good lady (and trust me, I was on my knees), I'll change my order tomorrow to a VL175 stand mount.

Thank you all for your advice and input.

(edit, what a good way to make my 2000th post!).

Scott, I'd suggest there are at least three other turners who have grovelled this week! Join the club. :D

rsser
24th March 2013, 06:26 PM
Having had 2 175s and 3 other lathes, the only one that didn't throw up significant vibes was the 175 with custom-made stand (RHS trestle construction from Anvil).

What it gets sat on and how that might need to be levelled of course makes a diff. too.

The factory stand doesn't do a bad job. Suggest you get the stand foot mounts coplanar with all the bolts loosened and tighten from the bottom up.

hughie
24th March 2013, 08:15 PM
Just trying to get a grip on your thinking here Hughie, however I would think a wood bench (solid one at that) which is dyna bolted to the ground would be more stable than a stand? As space is at a premium, I was going to make a bench with drawers. For the legs I was thinking 100mm square with 100 x 50mm cross beams. If you think a stand would be better then I'll have to change my thinking. :think:

Thanks for your advice Hughie and Paul39, I value your experience.

Ok by stand I mean any stand made of any material you wish to. I should have stated that my stands are wooden, its a pet theory of mine that such stands absorb the vibration better. :U

Scott
25th March 2013, 01:35 PM
Scott, I'd suggest there are at least three other turners who have grovelled this week! Join the club. :D

Only three? I must admit, I have carpet burns after yesterday :D


Having had 2 175s and 3 other lathes, the only one that didn't throw up significant vibes was the 175 with custom-made stand (RHS trestle construction from Anvil).

What it gets sat on and how that might need to be levelled of course makes a diff. too.

The factory stand doesn't do a bad job. Suggest you get the stand foot mounts coplanar with all the bolts loosened and tighten from the bottom up.

Ern (and anyone else for that question), is there any credence to placing rubber vibration pads (or equivalent) under the lather proper or the stand?

I've been out to the shed this morning and placed a level on the concrete. The level of the shed falls from font to back by about 30mm. The area where the lathe will stand the fall would be about 2-3mm over 600mm or so. I 'might' chisel out some concrete from the high side.

pommyphil
25th March 2013, 02:21 PM
The thing to avoid is "twist". If it just leans towards or away from you a few mil , no problem.

If you have one high corner and try to bolt it down....... well, not good.

I put 4 pads of 8mm hard rubber conveyor belt under mine (on the concrete)

before bolting down, and I'm well pleased, but I've never tried without :rolleyes: Phil