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smiife
1st April 2013, 07:17 PM
hi guys ,
this might seem a dumb:doh: question but .........i will ask
anyway,what would be the best way to anchor my lathe to
the concrete floor in my shed,i tried some dyna bolts on the
weekend but were not very successful,ruined 2 in the process:o
and the other 2 were not real good,any tips on what to use!!!!!!!!
cheers smiife:2tsup:

nz_carver
1st April 2013, 08:04 PM
I suggest Ramset AnkaScrew 12mmx90mm

DJ’s Timber
1st April 2013, 08:27 PM
Just out of interest, what type and size did you use?

Paul39
2nd April 2013, 01:56 AM
I have had good luck in sound concrete with the Red Head brand, see:

http://imagethumbnails.milo.com/024/826/454/trimmed/24826929_26032454_trimmed.jpg

You could also drill the hole, blow out dust, and epoxy in allthread. That would take care of not so good concrete.

The fastener stores here have all sorts of solutions at all sorts of prices.

Depending on the lathe and stand, put it on leveling screws and build a shelf low down and put on weight, dead auto batteries, buckets of sand or gravel, concrete blocks, engine block, etc.

artme
2nd April 2013, 08:11 AM
I have had great success bolting other things to concrete using Chemiweld.

This is an Epoxy type compound available at Bunnies and other hardware stores.

Use a rotary hammer drill to do your holes, make 'em deep and use threaded rod.

Blow ALL dust from the holes before setting the threaded rod.

smiife
3rd April 2013, 07:48 PM
hi guys,
thanks for your suggestions,
i did use 10mm x100mm dyna bolts,and like i said 2 of them stuffed up!!!!!!!!
so i might go back to the drawing board and start again, i might try the chemical ones

next question..............HOW DO I GET THE STUFFED ONES OUT:o
easier said than done i would imagine:B
cheers smiife

Skew ChiDAMN!!
3rd April 2013, 08:19 PM
To get the old ones out, first you need to get the sleeves out. If you put them in at the correct depth - and they're not one of the ones that has two sleeves (the actual anchor sleeve plus one which is basically a loooong washer) - then a pair of needle nose pliers should do the job.

Otherwise, you may need to either drill down - or chip out - next to the hole so you can use a screwdriver or similar probe to slowly lever out the sleeve(s). In this case, you'd be better off drilling new holes; you can chemset a thread into the old holes but you'd use double the amount and it's not really designed as a gap filler.

If drilling new holes, I'd leave the buggered bolts in place (maybe add a dab of chemset around the top to glue 'em in) and cut off anything above ground height with an angle grinder. Much easier. :wink:

G'luck with whatever you do!

smiife
3rd April 2013, 08:25 PM
To get the old ones out, first you need to get the sleeves out. If you put them in at the correct depth - and they're not one of the ones that has two sleeves (the actual anchor sleeve plus one which is basically a loooong washer) - then a pair of needle nose pliers should do the job.

Otherwise, you may need to either drill down - or chip out - next to the hole so you can use a screwdriver or similar probe to slowly lever out the sleeve(s). In this case, you'd be better off drilling new holes; you can chemset a thread into the old holes but you'd use double the amount and it's not really designed as a gap filler.

If drilling new holes, I'd leave the buggered bolts in place (maybe add a dab of chemset around the top to glue 'em in) and cut off anything above ground height with an angle grinder. Much easier. :wink:

G'luck with whatever you do!

thanks for the quick reply skew
i will give that a go on the weekend:2tsup:
cheers smiife:2tsup:

Paul39
4th April 2013, 03:52 AM
hi guys,
thanks for your suggestions,
i did use 10mm x100mm dyna bolts,and like i said 2 of them stuffed up!!!!!!!!
so i might go back to the drawing board and start again, i might try the chemical ones

next question..............HOW DO I GET THE STUFFED ONES OUT:o
easier said than done i would imagine:B
cheers smiife

If you have drilled close to the bottom of your concrete slab, take a suitable drift and drive the bad bolts through.

If you have an inch or so of bolt sticking out a few good whacks with a 3 pound hammer should drive them down, then follow with the drift.

smiife
4th April 2013, 07:58 PM
If you have drilled close to the bottom of your concrete slab, take a suitable drift and drive the bad bolts through.

If you have an inch or so of bolt sticking out a few good whacks with a 3 pound hammer should drive them down, then follow with the drift.


thanks for the suggestion paul i will give that a go too!!:2tsup:
cheers smiife:2tsup:

artme
4th April 2013, 08:41 PM
If you have drilled close to the bottom of your concrete slab, take a suitable drift and drive the bad bolts through.

If you have an inch or so of bolt sticking out a few good whacks with a 3 pound hammer should drive them down, then follow with the drift.

There is little that bests the persuasive power of a 3lb hammer!!

10lbs is better!!!:D:D

Skew ChiDAMN!!
5th April 2013, 12:21 PM
The only problem with a big hammer is it automatically precludes reusing the holes for chemset & thread.

And if the conc is - for some odd reason - thick enough that the bolt won't punch through or there's rebar in the way it'll also mushroom the end of the dynabolt, making it near impossible to get it out any other way short of of chipping out a large enough hole to get an angle-grinder in. (DAMHIKT. :- )

Ackershully, I favour a 5lb hammer... it's normally how I'd do it too. :D Quicker than getting the old bolt out, if you don't want to re-use the hole. But I thought I'd give the more reliable method rather than the normally quicker, simpler method - with a whole list of caveats. :p

artme
5th April 2013, 05:53 PM
Been down that track Skew! Results were not pretty!:no::no:

Phily
5th April 2013, 08:55 PM
Thanks for your post Smiife, makes me feel better about all the dyno's I've managed to stuff up in the past :~

On my current lathe I placed some heavy grade rubber strips under the feet of the lathe to assist with vibration absorbtion and "trapped" each leg with a steel plate (each with slight cupping) dyno'd into the concrete. I'm pretty happy with the end result as it has eliminated both movement and vibration through the machine/concrete.
Cheers
Phily

dennisk
5th April 2013, 11:55 PM
Up here in the great white north, we generally have heat lines running through our floors if they are concrete. I build a subbase out of timber or plywood and silicone it to the floor and lag screw to that. No holes in the floor and if you want to relocate you can peel it up with a wrecking bar or two. The silicone doesnt rip up the concrete as a glue would and it holds like a damn. Used it on the the old Wadkin and when I built an addition to the shop for the new Titan used it again. Nothing moves and if you need to relocate no problems and no holes in your slabs or anchor bolts to cut off.

QC Inspector
12th April 2013, 02:05 PM
Those of us here in the Great White North that don't have in floor heating open the door to the shop and pour a little water on each foot of the lathes base. A few minutes later it's frozen to the floor and we can turn to our hearts content secure in the knowledge that the lathe isn't going anywhere until early summer when it thaws. A few weeks later and we can repeat for another year of turning. ;)

Pete

dennisk
13th April 2013, 12:30 AM
You nailed that one,Pete. On April 9 I turned 55 and got up to see the thermometer at -13C, and its been like this since the middle of Octember. You know what they say bout living on the prairies: 6 months of winter and the rest is tough sledding! Anyway, that is why we have heated shops. A while ago the guys down under were talking bout the opposite end of the spectrum, I think my blood is too thick for that. Although I would risk it for a while after this winter, it hasnt been super cold(-32c) or so but it doesnt want to leave.

DaveTTC
15th April 2013, 12:06 AM
hi guys,
thanks for your suggestions,
i did use 10mm x100mm dyna bolts,and like i said 2 of them stuffed up!!!!!!!!
so i might go back to the drawing board and start again, i might try the chemical ones

next question..............HOW DO I GET THE STUFFED ONES OUT:o
easier said than done i would imagine:B
cheers smiife

50 mm penetration into the concrete should have been enough, 75mm would be over kill. The 100mm bolt (assuming the foot is flat and a nominal 3mm plate) would run the risk of punching right thru the concrete and blowing it out.

Sounds like you may have hit some reo. Try moving your lathe 50 mm diagonally if you can and drill again.

The suggestion to blow out the hole is an excellent one.

DaveTTC
15th April 2013, 12:10 AM
On pulling out the old dynabolts. You may find the 100mm bolt is a 2 piece sleeve, the main sleeve and a shorter one to make up the length. In this case if the main sleeve is below the surface you will have extreme difficulty removing the bolts.

SWR
15th April 2013, 12:31 AM
My first question is do you really need to bolt it down?

My lathe weighs about 70 kg - it sits on a stand of steel that weighs about 30kg....I stack timber on the same stand and I have 4 X 20kg bags of concrete on the shelves.

As a result of all this weight I can't even budge it, let alone have any movement from turning...

So if you have enough weight down low you really shouldn't have much movement....

But hey....what do I know...

My 0.02c worth...