mike48
11th April 2013, 05:47 PM
Kea Conqueror - Mounting An Air Compressor In The Engine Bay
My ex rental 2009 Kea Conqueror is based on a 2008 Toyota VDJ78 Troop Carrier with a 4.5 litre V8 diesel.
After being caught out twice having to lower tyre air pressure, and not having a compressor, I vowed to carry one, but carry space is very limited.
I wanted to fit the smallest air compressor which had a curly cord air hose into my engine bay to have it always available, yet not taking up valuable space in my camper storage.
I chose an SCA Hurricane, luckily on special.
Yes, it is “throwaway” quality, (almost) at the bottom of the range, and hasn’t got a great airflow, but it fits in and works well, and even the curly cord reaches the spare.
Here’s how I did mine.
Firstly, I removed the plastic end cap and replaced the switch with a Jaycar #SK0984 (Switch Rocker SPST) $3.90, as the original switch felt dodgy (technical term). The replacement is a direct push fit, but now with soldered connections, and a firmer feel.
Next I fitted a solder type “tagstrip” under an existing rear screw, and using new “figure eight” red+black 15 A (2.5 sq mm copper) battery cable, cut to “just reaches the starter battery” length, and soldering all rear connections.
Then I reused the original battery bulldog clips, but soldered the connections.
I checked the torque of all screws on the compressor, including the thermal switch, then sprayed all the rear end, and connections, and the battery clips, with INOX, and reattached the end cap.
I removed the original “tray” type pump base and made up a new baseplate with angled (approx 120 deg) end for attachment to the engine bay side, and with room space to add two supports made from 25x3 mm flat steel, bent to suit the mounts.
My new base is made from scrap 4mm aluminium sheet, 110mm x 280mm. One 100mm approx length support attaches to an existing power steering fluid container bolt point, and the other to an engine bay cable hold-down attachment point, with that cable now held to the support leg by a cable tie.
On the baseplate angled end, one bolt reuses the threaded (M8) attachment point originally used by the engine bay 12 V power connection box, and the other bolt uses an existing unused threaded (M8) attachment point.
I used M6 steel bolts and nylock nuts for compressor to base attachment, with no rubber mounts at all.
I had to shift the engine bay “12 V Power Connection Box” sideways and support on a new right angle steel support (similar in concept to the original), attached by two M5x20 screws and nylock nuts (washers of course) to my new baseplate. My new support is made from scrap 2mm zinc-anneal sheet steel.
After installation, I sprayed everything, including battery clips and air connectors with INOX, and originally stowed the hose and battery clips in a zip plastic bag, in an empty space just in front of the air cleaner. I now keep the curly cord hose in the internal rear locker.
Works like a treat, and solid as a rock.
Hopefully might help others, or be of interest.
Cheerio, mike
262658262657
My ex rental 2009 Kea Conqueror is based on a 2008 Toyota VDJ78 Troop Carrier with a 4.5 litre V8 diesel.
After being caught out twice having to lower tyre air pressure, and not having a compressor, I vowed to carry one, but carry space is very limited.
I wanted to fit the smallest air compressor which had a curly cord air hose into my engine bay to have it always available, yet not taking up valuable space in my camper storage.
I chose an SCA Hurricane, luckily on special.
Yes, it is “throwaway” quality, (almost) at the bottom of the range, and hasn’t got a great airflow, but it fits in and works well, and even the curly cord reaches the spare.
Here’s how I did mine.
Firstly, I removed the plastic end cap and replaced the switch with a Jaycar #SK0984 (Switch Rocker SPST) $3.90, as the original switch felt dodgy (technical term). The replacement is a direct push fit, but now with soldered connections, and a firmer feel.
Next I fitted a solder type “tagstrip” under an existing rear screw, and using new “figure eight” red+black 15 A (2.5 sq mm copper) battery cable, cut to “just reaches the starter battery” length, and soldering all rear connections.
Then I reused the original battery bulldog clips, but soldered the connections.
I checked the torque of all screws on the compressor, including the thermal switch, then sprayed all the rear end, and connections, and the battery clips, with INOX, and reattached the end cap.
I removed the original “tray” type pump base and made up a new baseplate with angled (approx 120 deg) end for attachment to the engine bay side, and with room space to add two supports made from 25x3 mm flat steel, bent to suit the mounts.
My new base is made from scrap 4mm aluminium sheet, 110mm x 280mm. One 100mm approx length support attaches to an existing power steering fluid container bolt point, and the other to an engine bay cable hold-down attachment point, with that cable now held to the support leg by a cable tie.
On the baseplate angled end, one bolt reuses the threaded (M8) attachment point originally used by the engine bay 12 V power connection box, and the other bolt uses an existing unused threaded (M8) attachment point.
I used M6 steel bolts and nylock nuts for compressor to base attachment, with no rubber mounts at all.
I had to shift the engine bay “12 V Power Connection Box” sideways and support on a new right angle steel support (similar in concept to the original), attached by two M5x20 screws and nylock nuts (washers of course) to my new baseplate. My new support is made from scrap 2mm zinc-anneal sheet steel.
After installation, I sprayed everything, including battery clips and air connectors with INOX, and originally stowed the hose and battery clips in a zip plastic bag, in an empty space just in front of the air cleaner. I now keep the curly cord hose in the internal rear locker.
Works like a treat, and solid as a rock.
Hopefully might help others, or be of interest.
Cheerio, mike
262658262657