Marking bottom of bowls

[TreeClimberNick]

What are you guys using to mark/sign the bottom of your bowls? I've done a couple with a small sharpie marker but it doesn't seem nice enough.

However, yesterday I finished a bowl with CA glue. I liked how it turned out. But the neat thing was that the CA glue reacted with the sharpie and now the lettering is raised. It looks super cool.

How do you guys do it? 265529


love
nick

[smiife]

hi nick,
nice bowl, i think you should do what ever you want
to do,most people do exactly what you have done
i think it looks ok ,quite neat ,a proper name of the wood
would be better for us laymen:U:U,thats my 2 cents worth
i have seen branding irons for sale with your name on if you
want real fancy:o
cheers smiife:2tsup:

[bassmansimon]

Branding irons can create a really nice effect for you to put your signature/name/logo on it, but if you want to date it or put the name of the timber on it, then you'll still be back to square one to make a decision on what to use.

Personally I just use a slim tip sharpie also, but looking for something nicer.

For darker timbers, I have seen some woodturners who have used a thin engraving tool - this seems to work well on darker timbers where a black marker wouldn't be very visible.

I'm looking forward to hearing other people's responses on this issue.

[TTIT]

For the last few years I've only been putting my initials on the bottom so a brand would have been ideal but was unaffordable until recently. I just got mine made using my own artwork and delivered for $139 - can't complain about that and it does a fantastic job. I've only used it on 2 finished items so far so I've still got to get used to getting the temp' right for different timbers but that will come with practice. Had no problems dealing with the vendor - Linky to their website (http://www.artdesignmake.com.au/stamps.html)

[bassmansimon]

And would be easy enough to heat up with a $20 creme brulee butane torch from a homewares store I imagine

[jgilfor]

Branding irons are quite expensive, and cannot be changed from piece to piece.

I have been using a Dremel brand engraving device. It must be Dremel. With the setting at mid range, I can neatly sign date and indicate wood species on the bottom if my work. I darken or lighten the engraving with some colored wax ( shoe polish) or with a sharpie. If you finish the bottom first, then engrave, the sharpie will fill the engraved parts and not the surface wood. A paper towel with a bit of alcohol will remove the surface color, leaving a neatly highlighted signature.

[bassmansimon]

If you finish the bottom first, then engrave, the sharpie will fill the engraved parts and not the surface wood. A paper towel with a bit of alcohol will remove the surface color, leaving a neatly highlighted signature.

Would this method work for finishes which are burnished into the timber (eg shellawax or oils) or is it only effective for hard shiny surfaces like a CA or lacquer coating on top of the timber?

[corbs]

I use something like this (http://www.officeworks.com.au/retail/products/Office-Supplies/Stationery/Markers/Permanent-Markers/SAS52478?catargetid=1402860417) and always write after the piece is finished (actually I try to get my wife to write it... she's much neater :rolleyes:)

The good thing about having two tips is small peices can get the fine tip and bigger bits can do the thicker end. I'm pretty impressed you got a CA finish on a bowl though :oo:


Corbs

[Grommett]

I've just used something like a sharpie, name and timber (usually a common name). An accompanying card gives the finish and my contact details.

[TreeClimberNick]

Being an arborist, I feel it's another part of my signature to use the botanical name.


love
nick

[Paul39]

Tree,

I use a fine magic marker after I finish, let dry overnight and gently wipe on another coat of finish on the bottom. I mostly use a rubbed on Tung oil, sometimes rubbed on polyurethane varnish.

I sign, put type of wood if known, and have a concealed date.

I use a code for the date. last two digits of the year and number of pieces made that year. This year would be 1301, 1302, 1303, etc. This also gives me a serial number for a list when I consign the stuff to the crafts shop.

There is discussion about should one date or not. I saw an expensive piece ($2500) in a shop that was signed & dated. It was made 5 years earlier. My thought was that this person does not sell much stuff. Not that I am in a position to buy a piece like that.

Photo is of 13th bowl of 2012

[smiife]

For the last few years I've only been putting my initials on the bottom so a brand would have been ideal but was unaffordable until recently. I just got mine made using my own artwork and delivered for $139 - can't complain about that and it does a fantastic job. I've only used it on 2 finished items so far so I've still got to get used to getting the temp' right for different timbers but that will come with practice. Had no problems dealing with the vendor - Linky to their website (http://www.artdesignmake.com.au/stamps.html)


hi ttit.
not much info on the linky,
would you have taken a photo for us to have a look at your handy work ? :U
cheers smiife:2tsup:

[powderpost]

I use a Nikko fine point permanent pen, for name and species. Personally I don't think you need to worry too much about the quality of your signature, so long as it is identifiable as yours, is more important, that then forms part of the piece. Most of the old master artists were not too concerned about their signatures, as they were all unique and recognised.
Jim

[TTIT]

hi ttit.
not much info on the linky,
would you have taken a photo for us to have a look at your handy work ? :U
cheers smiife:2tsup:Oddly enough . . . not yet :U I'm going to be taking some any day now of an unusual bowl I just finished that has the honor of being the first bowl to get 'stamped' - just got to get around to it - will post again when done :;

[Sturdee]

What are you guys using to mark/sign the bottom of your bowls?

I know it seems the common thing to do to mark/sign your turnings but why do you do it.

I understand it if a professional turner does it, but a hobby turner ?


Peter.

[issatree]

Hi All,
Well I'm very proud of My Work, & I Sign everything that is possible.
Pens are not signable.

I have used an Artline 200, Fine, 0.4, Black since 1983 or there abouts.

Yes, I've heard that one too, that it must be a great Pen to last that long.
Office Works sell them, 4 for $10.

I get 6-7 Months out of a Pen, provided I put the cap back on.

Of course you must do your Writing before you put the Finish on.

I put My Name, Geelong, Date 152013.
& the Common Name of the Wood, Cypress.
That's My 2 sense worth.

[hughie]

I use a fine sharpie, although now I have a stamp. :2tsup: But I find I will need another one of a smaller design as often make smallish stuff. :C :U

[smiife]

Oddly enough . . . not yet :U I'm going to be taking some any day now of an unusual bowl I just finished that has the honor of being the first bowl to get 'stamped' - just got to get around to it - will post again when done :;

thanks ttit,
i would be interested to see your ''first stamped bowl'':cool:
cheers smiife:2tsup:


I know it seems the common thing to do to mark/sign your turnings but why do you do it.

I understand it if a professional turner does it, but a hobby turner ?


Peter.

hi peter,
i think it makes it more personal and a reminder when it was made
and also what type of timber,i guess it depends also on how many
pieces you turn, i have always done it right from my first piece i
made,i don't do it for any other reason than my own personal
preference:U
cheers smiife:2tsup:

[TTIT]

I know it seems the common thing to do to mark/sign your turnings but why do you do it.

I understand it if a professional turner does it, but a hobby turner ?


Peter.Damn good question Peter :o - hadn't had to stop and actually think about it before :think: For me I guess it's just a pride thing - when I finish something I think looks special it's a "I made this! :U " time - but then there are the items I don't sign too - don't think I have to explain that any further :B

[Sturdee]

Thanks guys for the reasons why you sign your work. I can relate to having pride in your work and thus sign or when you sell it.

I don't sell my stuff as I turn for my own pleasure or for family presents, hence I don't sign my work. In any case I couldn't sign my Corian turnings even if I wanted to.:U

But I proudly display my turning in our home. Built a special display unit in our home office just for that. :U


Peter.

[mach70]

As I mainly turn only pens at present I do up a certificate (3 per A4 page) which has a bit of a blurb about the pen. Not all pens get this as sometimes they are sold before I get to do the cert. I put this in an envelope that has a serial number on it to help track who and when it was made/sold
Have been told it is a nice touch.

One thing I am looking at is a way to mark the to identify it as I offer a conditional warranty with them.

[robo hippy]

I sign, date, and include wood type on my bowls. Who knows, I may be collectable after my birth certificate expires. I quit using the Sharpies some years back, the oils would make the signature bleed. I switched to Staedtler Lumocolor permanent pens. I found them in the 'art' pen sections at a local big box store. Some times called 'archival' pens, and acid free ink. I do sign when the bottom is sanded, and before any finish goes on the bowl. They can write through some finishes, but any finish on the pen tip can ruin them. Done that more than once.

robo hippy

[Michael Brazeau]

Since I do pyrography as a hobby as well, I use a wood burning pen for marking the bottom of my pieces. I sign my name and include the date and wood species.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Seeing as how everybody seems to be signing their pieces, I'll make like the black sheep and claim "unsigned bottoms" as my signature.

Consider this advance warning that I should be around shortly to pick up any items I may have inadvertently left lying around in your workshops... :D:p

Ed: It is strongly suggested that you also sign your tools, chucks and other asstd. sundries.

[Sturdee]

Seeing as how everybody seems to be signing their pieces, I'll make like the black sheep and claim "unsigned bottoms" as my signature.



You and me both Skew. :2tsup:


Peter.

PS I wonder if signs all his work.

[RETIRED]

Nope. Used to sign bowls early on but a signature on most of my stuff would have to be fairly large to be seen.

I do brand any furniture I make though. Haven't made much in the last few years and I don't know where the brand is. :shrug:

[TTIT]

This is the first bowl I've hit with my new brand. As the wood is the equivalent of Balsa, Bats-wing Coral Tree, I didn't think it would need as much heat but . . . . . . getting the temperature right for different timbers will take some practice :B Still looks a damn sight better than my shaky scrawl and it won't wash out with the finish :2tsup:

Wouldn't you know it - forgot to take pics of the actual brand :doh:

[smiife]

hi ttit,
i saw this bowl in another thread looks good but a lot of work to get it right!!
thanks for showing the ''brand'' looks very stylish i think ,finishes your bottom off :o
cheers smiife:2tsup:

[TreeClimberNick]

Anyone tried a paint pen?


love
nick

[TTIT]

Anyone tried a paint pen?


love
nickI use them to number the eggs in my collection but it can be rubbed off so I suspect any finish over it would dissolve/soften/smear it all over the place. Spraying over it with a lacquer might work but I can't see myself ever going down that path :no:

[Mobyturns]

:q
This is the first bowl I've hit with my new brand. As the wood is the equivalent of Balsa, Bats-wing Coral Tree, I didn't think it would need as much heat but . . . . . . getting the temperature right for different timbers will take some practice :B Still looks a damn sight better than my shaky scrawl and it won't wash out with the finish :2tsup:

Wouldn't you know it - forgot to take pics of the actual brand :doh:

TTIT, Watch out the brand lawyers may be onto you with a famous product brand likeness! :C:q