Opinion on a lathe

[DonIncognito]

Hi

Im thinking of buying a lathe, and I wanted some slightly more informed opinions onto my choice.

I found this one for $80, which to my mind seems like a bit too much of a bargain, but you never know your luck.

http://i.imgur.com/j7LO1fE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6WsnehI.jpg

Is it worth it? Obviously not knowing how it runs makes it a bit difficult to answer, but assuming I could get everything running smoothly....

On the other hand, I walked through carbatech and drooled a whole bunch at thier stuff, and its really not a huge jump up price wise to one of their minilathes. Im not planning on doing any massive work, so a mini should be big enough to get my teeth wet. Plus the partner wants a turn.

[hughie]

Not really a bargain as they go for around $99 new. The down side is they are very flimsy as the bed is made from square tube thin walled at that. If you look on Ebay theres one there similar as your for $5.60 :no: But there are a few cheapies also there, cast iron beds etc.

Bottom line is, save your money and watch Ebay for something better.

[artme]

Urk!!!:no::no::no:

[issatree]

Hi,
Yes, well they make good sanders, & I think you can unscrew the Bars from the head.

As said, you can buy a Mini / Midi for around, I think $ 250 / 300.

[AndreasO]

The Lathe you need should have MT 2 in head stock and tail stock .Head and tail stock must be perfectly aligned .Firm heavy cast iron bed. If you want to turn bowls the head stock should swivel .There are only two brands to consider Nova or Jet in my opinion.

[DavidG]

When I first started I was lent one of those. :C It flexed like mad.....

Might make a reasonable boat anchor for a tinnie.

Save a bit and get something with a cast bed.

[Paul39]

I have two of them, one free, one $10.00. They make good disk sanders, and the motors and pulleys can be used on other things. The tool rest and tailstock mount tend to break, in addition to the bed flexing.

That is a pretty good appearing stand under the lathe pictured.

If a lathe is made of cast iron and can't be lifted by one person, it is worth further investigating. If one is only interested in small things there are some decent inexpensive cast iron bed mini and midi lathes available.

It would be best for a new turner to join a men's shed or get some instruction. After using a good lathe a while it is easy to sift through what is available to buy one.

[chuck1]

I have one of those lathes under a tarp waiting for me to cut up! into a sanding station and I'm not surprised anyone hasn't pinched it!

[ian thorn]

It has all been said dont go there :no: that is why they are so cheap. save and buy a mini or midi, they are a good starting lathe and if you get realy hooked later you can get a bigger one ( you can have the small one dear ) when the time comes .In the meantime join a wood turning club you can ues there lathes get some good help and some clubs hire out small lathes to members. remember allso you need some safety gear dont give up its a great hobby or can put a little $ in the pocket (worth a mention to shmbo :wink: ) have fun with your new hobby.

Ian

[DonIncognito]

Thanks guys, sounds like I should give it a miss.

Will have to save up for another couple of weeks and grab a new mini from carbatec

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

If it comes with a faceplate, then it's worth it's money as a cheap linisher. An easy conversion.

As a lathe, though, it was never worth that much. :wink:

I assume that you don't have any turning tools... chisels, etc. but do you have a bench-grinder or similar to sharpen tools on?

[DonIncognito]

I assume that you don't have any turning tools... chisels, etc. but do you have a bench-grinder or similar to sharpen tools on?

Sort of. I have been using the scary sharp method for a bit, but its getting a tad tedious, so I want to upgrade to some decent water stones fairly quickly, and I sort of just assumed that anything that would be sharpened on a bench grinder could be sharpened on a waterstone.

[NeilS]

I want to upgrade to some decent water stones fairly quickly, and I sort of just assumed that anything that would be sharpened on a bench grinder could be sharpened on a waterstone.

Yes, but they are not efficient for sharpening turning tools.

I have many waterstones that I use to sharpen knives, hand plane blades, and the like. In the case of my Japanese knives (they get used daily) they stay razor sharp for many months after being sharpened on waterstones. That is an efficient investment of my time for sharpening those blades.

However, in the case of my turning tools, which only stay sharp for a matter of minutes, I only want to spend seconds getting the blade sharp again so that I spend more time turning than sharpening. Some form of power grinding is needed to achieve that.

[Paul39]

Sort of. I have been using the scary sharp method for a bit, but its getting a tad tedious, so I want to upgrade to some decent water stones fairly quickly, and I sort of just assumed that anything that would be sharpened on a bench grinder could be sharpened on a waterstone.

Scary sharp is wasted on turning tools except for the last shaving cut before you sand.

Think about how far a chisel goes through wood in one minute when making a mortice for a hinge, or how far a hand plane travels in a minute when planing a board.

Turning the outside of a 10 inch cylinder at 700 rpm, the lathe tool goes through 21,990.5 inches of wood in a minute. In hard abrasive Aussie timber that carefully honed scary sharp is gone in a few seconds.

[DonIncognito]

Scary sharp is wasted on turning tools except for the last shaving cut before you sand.

I dont have any turning tools to sharpen in any way, let alone scary sharp.

What you say makes sense though.

[DaveTTC]

I had a friend by one of those lathes in the states. Tried to talk him out of it .... Oh well. If it includes chisels it may be worth it they happen to be good quality ( not likely)

There are much better offers for just a few dollars more

[DonIncognito]

Bump.

Fortunately, the position im in leaves me some time to wait for a good deal, so I was wondering about this one.

Its a ledacraft MC1100 for $320. Comes with a set of sherwood turning tools, and some other assorted callipers and such. The only hitch is that the tail stock has seized because its been in storage for 7 years.

I have been looking around and not finding many replacement tailstocks. Then I did some more looking and it seems like the major problem with mc1100 tailstocks is some part of it gouging out when you use it as a drill press. I dont think that has happened here, so logically its just seized from lack of use, and some wd40 and a bit of percussive maintenance should fix that up. I have been assured that the head stock and motor run fine.

Am I missing something glaring bad?

[DaveTTC]

That sounds like a better deal. DO you have any picutures?


As for fixing the tail stock, what you say should work. I cant imagine it being too hard to fix unless it has serious rust

[DaveTTC]

I'm guessing your in WA and it is an orange lathe?

[DonIncognito]

I'm guessing your in WA and it is an orange lathe?
Bingo.

[DaveTTC]

there was a jet on gumtree too, a little more expensive but looked a good unit and the may negotiate and I saw another one on there as well in there perth area, well might have been busselton or something. Not sure how far you want to travel.

The orange one looks ok. I think I would prefer the jet but see what others say

[DonIncognito]

there was a jet on gumtree too, a little more expensive but looked a good unit and the may negotiate and I saw another one on there as well in there perth area, well might have been busselton or something. Not sure how far you want to travel.

The orange one looks ok. I think I would prefer the jet but see what others say

Do you have a link to the jet one?

We are about to move down to Albany so im more than happy to stop anywhere along the way for a good cause. Wont have the room to be able to use it till we get down there, so this isnt urgent.

[DaveTTC]

try this


http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bunbury-6230/power-tools/woodworking-lathe/1022616990

[DaveTTC]

and this one near my old stomping ground for a little more again


http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kardinya/power-tools/lathe-mc1100a-with-cast-stand-carba-tech-plus-accessories/1023379680

[oreos40]

There ways on the OP's lathe can be replaced with heavier to solid stock to stiffen it up. A rotating headstock is over rated IMO. Outboard turning although not necessarily as convenient is much more stable when the material is turning perpendicular to the axis of the lathe. I did build one that way once but probably will not again. I think I would rather be able to have the headstock travel the length of the bed to turn out board. Tailstock and headstock alignment is not a critical point. Often the concern is about drilling a true hole with the tailstock. Most just use the hole as a starter for finishing with other tools anyway. A true hole is easy to get even with an out of aligned tailstock. As others have stated it would make for a good plate sander or the start of a bowl lathe if nothing else. It could also be used for sharpening.

[Paul39]

Bump.



Its a ledacraft MC1100 for $320. Comes with a set of sherwood turning tools, and some other assorted callipers and such. The only hitch is that the tail stock has seized because its been in storage for 7 years.

I have been looking around and not finding many replacement tailstocks. Then I did some more looking and it seems like the major problem with mc1100 tailstocks is some part of it gouging out when you use it as a drill press. I dont think that has happened here, so logically its just seized from lack of use, and some wd40 and a bit of percussive maintenance should fix that up. I have been assured that the head stock and motor run fine.

Am I missing something glaring bad?

If it is this one: Lathes - Wood : LEDACRAFT MC-1100 WOOD LATHE (http://www.ledamachinery.com.au/index.php/lathes-wood/ledacraft-mc-1100-wood-lathe-detail)

It looks like a decent lathe except for the outrigger tool rest. That looks as if it is designed to break. If the tool rest fits into the banjo, that would solve the problem.

What about the tailstock is stuck? Is there a center stuck in it, or does it not wind in and out? If the threads were oiled, sitting 7 years should not let it get stuck. Almost all tailstocks have a lock on them, if one is not showing on this one, look for a broken off screw. The tailstock design looks pretty solid.

My rule of thumb on anything used in working condition is 1/2 of new. Things not working less, add for accessories, also 1/2 of new.

When you go to buy anything, take enough cash in smaller bills and be prepared to take it with you. Decide what is the most you will pay in your mind, then ask: "what is the absolute least you will take for this, as is, where is, in cash".

If it is at or below what you are willing to pay, pay, load and go.

I have occasionally pleasantly surprised by how little a seller will take. Sometimes they will not budge an inch.

I was told many years ago by a used furniture dealer friend to not offer a price to a seller. That way they can never say the buyer beat me down to his price.

Keep in mind that if you are going to be a serious turner this is only your first lathe. I still most often use my first "good" lathe, a 350 X 1000 mm Hegner, which was my third. First was a 7 X 12 inch Chinese metal lathe, then a 12 X 36 inch Delta with a pot metal head and tail stock and a sheet steel bed. Fourth was a 20 inch swing short bed Woodfast with DC variable speed motor, fifth is a 28 inch swing home made bowl lathe that I bought for $250 with a brand new 1.5 HP motor, not yet in service.

[Sturdee]

If it is this one: Lathes - Wood : LEDACRAFT MC-1100 WOOD LATHE (http://www.ledamachinery.com.au/index.php/lathes-wood/ledacraft-mc-1100-wood-lathe-detail)

It looks like a decent lathe except for the outrigger tool rest. That looks as if it is designed to break. If the tool rest fits into the banjo, that would solve the problem.



I've got the H& F version so it's a nice blue colour instead, but the specs are the same. The outrigger tool rest won't break but needs support underneath to the floor to stop vibration. The tool rest will fit the banjo without any problems.

The stand is flimsy but I've got mine bolted on a bench. Quite a few members have got these and although they may need tweaking are a good entry level lathe. There are a few posts on mods to this kind of lathe as well.

Peter.

[Evanism]

The only hitch is that the tail stock has seized because its been in storage for 7 years.

.... and some wd40 and a bit of percussive maintenance should fix that up. I have been assured that the head stock and motor run fine.


Soak it in diesel for a day or two, then give it a soak in this: Evapo-Rust Australia Home Page (http://www.evapo-rust.com.au/)

It will free up like magic, plus shiney!

[DonIncognito]

lots of good info

Cheers. Will keep all that in mind. Im going out to see it on saturday, so the more things I know to look for the better.



Keep in mind that if you are going to be a serious turner this is only your first lathe. I still most often use my first "good" lathe, a 350 X 1000 mm Hegner, which was my third. First was a 7 X 12 inch Chinese metal lathe, then a 12 X 36 inch Delta with a pot metal head and tail stock and a sheet steel bed. Fourth was a 20 inch swing short bed Woodfast with DC variable speed motor, fifth is a 28 inch swing home made bowl lathe that I bought for $250 with a brand new 1.5 HP motor, not yet in service.
Yeah, I know im going to want to upgrade late, but I have a fair bit of learning ahead of me before I outgrow something like that. If I can skip the first two buys, I figure im ahead a bit already. That money can go towards a decent chuck (I hear the vicmark vm100 is the bees knees), and maybe a decent tool or two once I work out what I will want or need.


Soak it in diesel for a day or two, then give it a soak in this: Evapo-Rust Australia Home Page (http://www.evapo-rust.com.au/)

It will free up like magic, plus shiney!

What does the diesel do to it that the rust remover wont?

[Evanism]

What does the diesel do to it that the rust remover wont?

I would normally try and give a science based answer, but on this occasion it will have to be "I don't know".

All I know is it works.

A mate imported a 454 engine. The idiots at customs used a pressure hose to "clean it" and by the time we received it it was rusted to buggery and seized like a bastard.

We soaked It hard. It let us move it a bit and then we could pull it down. Saved the day and now it's a daily driver... 800 hp blown v8 you can feel in your guts from 3 blocks off.

I think the diesel is more like oil than petrol. It soaks into everything. It is a trick I've done many many times over the years (I build stupid fast cars). If something doesn't come off with heat and reasonable effort, I bung it in a barrel, give it a soak and then it moves quite easily.

[DonIncognito]

I would normally try and give a science based answer, but on this occasion it will have to be "I don't know".

All I know is it works. Fair call. I did some further reading, and it looks like you are either correct, or part of a wide wide collective that is wrong, so im happy to trust group judgement here.


There have been two further developments. I was rummaging through my parents garage and managed to walk away with a set of Sorby turning tools that would need some restoration, but look perfectly sound, just a bit rusty. I actually picked up a bunch of old stuff that I might do a post on later, but the sorbys are the pertinent items. I also found this webpage which has enough rust removal tips that one of em must work.

Lathe - Rust Removal/Prevention (http://www.armurerieduroi.com/pages/lathe/lathe_rust_removal.html)

I think im leaning towards grabbing it, and fixing it up, and learning as I go.

[NeilS]

. The outrigger tool rest won't break but needs support underneath to the floor to stop vibration.

+1

[Evanism]

Fair call. I did some further reading, and it looks like you are either correct, or part of a wide wide collective that is wrong, so im happy to trust group judgement here.


There have been two further developments. I was rummaging through my parents garage and managed to walk away with a set of Sorby turning tools that would need some restoration, but look perfectly sound, just a bit rusty. I actually picked up a bunch of old stuff that I might do a post on later, but the sorbys are the pertinent items. I also found this webpage which has enough rust removal tips that one of em must work.

Lathe - Rust Removal/Prevention (http://www.armurerieduroi.com/pages/lathe/lathe_rust_removal.html)

I think im leaning towards grabbing it, and fixing it up, and learning as I go.

It was mentioned the tail stock was seized. The diesel will free up the part. It won't remove rust.

The rust remover is for that.

E

[DonIncognito]

Ok, I went ahead and got the mc1100. Got it home and life happened, and haven't had a chance to play with it yet, so im working on fixing up the tail stock and the set of Sorby chisels I dragged out of my dads garage. I went and grabbed the tru grind jig, and im heading along to the show this weekend, hoping to grab a grinder.

On the tail stock, from my limited knowledge, it looks like the spindle is seized. I can get 3/4 of a revolution of the hand wheel before it stops. I have had it soaking in diesel overnight, and it hasnt made much of a difference yet. Would some light percussive maintenance with a rubber mallet help or hinder?

[Evanism]

Heat, if you can. If you have one, start lightly with a paint stripper blower thing (like a hair dryer on steroids) with a light percussive maintenance.

Next step would be to use a torch. I have a cheap one from bunnings that is essentially a nozzle with a small butane bottle. It's marvellous. A little heat from that will allow the two different metals to expand at different rates. Don't worry about the diesel, you can't set it on fire, but you'll want to do it on your BBQ or similar (the stink!)

Next thing is that you mentioned the handle turned some way before stopping. Perhaps the winding mechanism itself is seized? I mean, most mechanisms are pretty basic, in that the "tensioner" simply squeezes the iron tube together (over a slit). Perhaps when the tightener is unwound it's not "ungripping" the inside. My drill press uses such barbarity (and it's a good Total Tools one). On older gear I put a biiiig screwdriver in the slit and twist it a touch with some vice grips. If you're Into hitting, I suppose you could wonk it with a cold chisel...as long as you don't strike the internal piston...it's usually chromed and dinks will affect its traversal when it's freed.

I have a mate who is a repair mechanic and I discussed this thread with him and he laughed.... His answer: heat, wd40 and a hammer. Still stuck? More heat, more WD, bigger hammer. :D

He, apparently knows what he's doing! He pulls brakes, clutches and other rusted up horrors all day, every day.

[DaveTTC]

this may sound stupid but just in case ..... make sure you have loosened the lock nut / screw too.

Don't worry about the diesel, you can't set it on fire, but you'll want to do it on your BBQ or similar (the stink!)


Can I quote you next time I use the kitchen sink ..... please;)

[Evanism]

DaveTTC, I was going to add that bit of sarcasm! But I thought any mung-bean that does this kind of thing in the house is definitely beyond hope!

[DaveTTC]

DaveTTC, I was going to add that bit of sarcasm! But I thought any mung-bean that does this kind of thing in the house is definitely beyond hope!

my wife reckons I'm beyond hope

[DonIncognito]

Heat, if you can. If you have one, start lightly with a paint stripper blower thing (like a hair dryer on steroids) with a light percussive maintenance.

Next step would be to use a torch. I have a cheap one from bunnings that is essentially a nozzle with a small butane bottle. It's marvellous. A little heat from that will allow the two different metals to expand at different rates. Don't worry about the diesel, you can't set it on fire, but you'll want to do it on your BBQ or similar (the stink!)

Next thing is that you mentioned the handle turned some way before stopping. Perhaps the winding mechanism itself is seized? I mean, most mechanisms are pretty basic, in that the "tensioner" simply squeezes the iron tube together (over a slit). Perhaps when the tightener is unwound it's not "ungripping" the inside. My drill press uses such barbarity (and it's a good Total Tools one). On older gear I put a biiiig screwdriver in the slit and twist it a touch with some vice grips. If you're Into hitting, I suppose you could wonk it with a cold chisel...as long as you don't strike the internal piston...it's usually chromed and dinks will affect its traversal when it's freed.

I have a mate who is a repair mechanic and I discussed this thread with him and he laughed.... His answer: heat, wd40 and a hammer. Still stuck? More heat, more WD, bigger hammer. :D

He, apparently knows what he's doing! He pulls brakes, clutches and other rusted up horrors all day, every day.
Cheers. Will have a crack at that tomorrow.

Is there any danger in leaving the tailstock soaking in diesel long term? Im heading away for a week, should I take it out and dry it before I go?


this may sound stupid but just in case ..... make sure you have loosened the lock nut / screw too.

Nope, doesnt sound stupid, but I learnt a while ago that you check all the basic things first, because of the amount of times something isnt working because a cable is loose, or a switch is in the wrong position.I took off both the locking nut and the actual wheel while its soaking though.

[DaveTTC]

soaking should be fine

[DonIncognito]

Damn life getting in the way of my new toys. In the middle of moving and simply havent had time to knuckle down and fix this yet. I soaked it in diesel for a week, gave it days worth of electrolysis and then attacked it with a heat gun and rubber mallet. There was time between each of these treatments.

From what I can tell, there is two hollow tubes inside the tail stock. The wheel grabs one end, and whatever chuck you are using goes in the other. The one grabbed by the wheel moves, but the front one doesnt. First question, should those two pipes be one? You can sort of see the gap in the pic. And I did remove the locking nut there as well.
286817

Its possible I had a bad connection with the electrolysis, because there really wasnt the coating of scum I found with the first test job I did. I suppose it comes down to whether or not that tube should be in one piece or two.

[Paul39]

Don,

Below is a diagram of a typical tail stock. Depending on the construction, the spindle is threaded directly into the tail stock body, or sometimes the tail stock is bored out and the spindle is threaded into a tube which is slid into the tail stock and fixed with a set screw or sometimes pressed in.

In some the spindle thread comes out of the back and the spindle rotates, in others the spindle has a left hand thread inside the spindle, and the threaded shaft on the hand wheel is held by a pin or circlip so the spindle moves in and out and is kept from turning by a groove with a pin in it.

The live center has a taper which fits into a female taper in the spindle. To get that out you slide a steel rod just barely smaller than the hole through the spindle and give it a sharp whack with a steel hammer. If it is rusted in, applying penetrating oil to the interface of the red and blue on the diagram, and down the inside of the spindle which is propped on the right side to let the oil get to the inside of the live center. If soaking and 2 - 3 whacks does not get it out, more soaking and heat on the outside of the spindle with a heat gun or carefully with a propane torch. When the heat from the torch makes the oil smoke, that is enough heat. You want a fast shock so an 8 -10 oz. hammer going fast is better than a bigger one.

To get the spindle to go in and out; put on the hand wheel and fix tightly, look in the hole from where you removed the locking screw and rotate the spindle until you see a hole or slot appear, hold the spindle in that position and run the locking screw in until it is snug. Back out the locking screw 1/2 turn, turn the hand wheel back and forth to see if the spindle moves in or out.

If your get any movement, keep rocking the hand wheel back and forth straining a little at each end, squirt penetrating oil around every meeting surface, remove the locking screw and squirt oil in there, put back and keep working it back and forth. If you can get any movement at all of the spindle coming in or out it will eventually come free with oil and movement.

Let us know how it goes.

[DonIncognito]

To get the spindle to go in and out; put on the hand wheel and fix tightly, look in the hole from where you removed the locking screw and rotate the spindle This is the bit I got up to. The spindle will not turn a full rotation. If I attach the handwheel to the spindle, I get movement from basically 12 till 9. 3/4s of a full circle. Then it will not budge. I have sat there for an hour or so working inox into it, to no effect.


turn the hand wheel back and forth to see if the spindle moves in or out.
There is no movement of the spindle in an out.


Let us know how it goes.
Cheers. Its still stuck, and there is no appreciative increase in movement.

I have amended your diagram. There is a break at the purple lines in the spindle, and the rear portion that attaches to the hand wheel has the 3/4s turn of movement. The front piece does not budge at all.
287081


Its starting to look like a replacement spindle will be needed.

[Jim Carroll]

Must admit to not fully reading all posts but is there any locating grub screw or such likes on the side of the tail stock .

Usually there is a groove along the side of the quill which has a grub screw or locking handle in to stop the quill rotating.
Cant see anything from the sides of the tailstock in your pictures but usually they are on the other side.

[Paul39]

Don,

If you can't get the spindle to move in the tail stock you will have to buy the whole TS.

If you soaked the TS in oily stuff before trying electrolysis, it is not likely the E. solution got where it needed to by as the narrow space was occupied by oily stuff.

At this point you don't have much to loose, so lets try a few more things.

First get the live center out. It is most likely a taper so any movement will bring it out. Get a steel rod that fits as closely as possible in the bore on the hand wheel side. I have a variety from dead computer printers and copy machines. They can be bought at building supply places or places that sell engineers supplies.

If they sell this in AU get a can:

Blaster Chemical/11 oz. penetrating catalyst (16-PB) | Penetrating Oil | AutoZone.com (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Blaster-Chemical-11-oz-penetrating-catalyst/_/N-270i?itemIdentifier=515413_0_0_)

Liberally apply around all cracks between the various parts of your tail stock, and down the bore. Put the rod in the bore at the hand wheel end and with an 8 - 10 oz. hammer, tap, tap, tap. More juice, tap, tap, tap. Repeat between sips while you have a cuppa or a brew. Juice up and let set overnight. The light tapping opens up fissures in the rust between the stuck parts and lets the juice get in. Once a bit of lubrication gets in it will almost always come apart.

The next day put the tail stock on the bench and put a cardboard box with the open end facing the live center. Put the rod in from the hand wheel end right up to the end of the live center, and with a bigger hammer 16 - 32 oz. accurately hit the rod as hard as you can. The live center should come out like a bullet. If not, repeat up to 5 times with a solid hit.

If it doesn't come out repeat the soaking, tapping, overnight, then try again.

I think from what I have read, and your amendment to my drawing, that you have a spindle that slides in and out and is threaded on the inside with the hand wheel side threaded on the outside to push or pull the spindle.

All the juicing up, tapping, and bashing will likely free up everything in the tails stock. If it does not, using a brass hammer or an 18 inch stick of hard Aussie timber about as big as the butt end of a pool cue, apply juice to and beat the daylights out of both ends of the TS spindle, once you get the live center out. Repeat with more juice several times and let set overnight.

Put the hand wheel on and secure firmly. If the set screw is not bearing on a flat of the shaft or in a drilled depression, it would help to file a flat or better drill a slight depression for the set screw to dig into. Turn the hand wheel in one direction and mark on the wheel and on the TS body where it stops. Turn the other direction and mark. Apply juice and turn to the extremes and see if you can force the spindle a few degrees past the mark, alternate and keep forcing back and forth. If you can get it to move 10 degrees past the mark on each side it will come loose. Keep adding juice. If you see rusty juice coming out you are winning.

Below left is my $850 Woodfast just after I got it home and put back together. (Two trips in a Kia Pride - Ford Festiva in the US.) The left hand wheel, face plate, and live center were all rusted in place. I used the above procedures to get everything apart, then polished all the bare metal with light oil and 400 grit paper.

In middle is a Woodfast tail stock. The spindle goes in and out and is locked by the lever on top. The hand wheel is on a threaded hollow rod that runs inside the threaded spindle. There is a groove in the shaft and a C shaped piece fits into the groove to keep it from winding in and out. You can see the top of the piece of metal on the top right of the TS.

On right is my 1995 20 inch swing, short bed, DC variable speed, Woodfast in place. Wonderful machine.

[Paul39]

Must admit to not fully reading all posts but is there any locating grub screw or such likes on the side of the tail stock .

Usually there is a groove along the side of the quill which has a grub screw or locking handle in to stop the quill rotating.
Cant see anything from the sides of the tailstock in your pictures but usually they are on the other side.

Jim, see post 41

[DonIncognito]

Don,

If you can't get the spindle to move in the tail stock you will have to buy the whole TS.

If you soaked the TS in oily stuff before trying electrolysis, it is not likely the E. solution got where it needed to by as the narrow space was occupied by oily stuff.

Its starting to look like it. When I get the chance I will give the electrolysis another shot, after a liberal cleaning to get rid of oily stuff, then I will give your ideas a shot. Thanks heaps for the help.




I think from what I have read, and your amendment to my drawing, that you have a spindle that slides in and out and is threaded on the inside with the hand wheel side threaded on the outside to push or pull the spindle.

If I look down the middle of the tail stock, I cant see any threads, if that makes any difference.



Below left is my $850 Woodfast just after I got it home and put back together. (Two trips in a Kia Pride - Ford Festiva in the US.) The left hand wheel, face plate, and live center were all rusted in place. I used the above procedures to get everything apart, then polished all the bare metal with light oil and 400 grit paper.

In middle is a Woodfast tail stock. The spindle goes in and out and is locked by the lever on top. The hand wheel is on a threaded hollow rod that runs inside the threaded spindle. There is a groove in the shaft and a C shaped piece fits into the groove to keep it from winding in and out. You can see the top of the piece of metal on the top right of the TS.

On right is my 1995 20 inch swing, short bed, DC variable speed, Woodfast in place. Wonderful machine.
They look like some nice machines =)

Thanks again for your help.

[Paul39]

Don,

Electrolysis works fine on bare metal that is in line of sight of the anode. See one of many explanations:

Rust Removal Using Electrolysis (http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/miscellaneous/rust_removal.htm)

The places that are sticking are shielded from the anode and have oil in and around the rust. I would have a go as described in my last post.

If you would like to try a chemical method, stick the top of the tail stock in a pot, cover to above the spindle with white vinegar and put it on the stove and keep at a simmer for several hours. That may get between the tight places.

There are other stronger solutions that work faster but are hazardous to your health.

[Evanism]

Electrolysis is one way, but it chews the metals (this may be desirable)

When I'm restoring, I use this stuff: Evapo-Rust Home Page (http://www.evapo-rust.com.au/)

It's magic.