Gifkins 1/4 inch collet

[romansnews]

Hi
Can anyone tell me where to buy the Gifkins 1/4 inch collet as i cant find a supplier online.
I'm having the same issues as discussed in other threads with my bits coming out of my triton router.
Any help much appreciated
Ross

[nrb]

If you go to www.gifkins.com.au (http://www.gifkins.com.au) that should get you8 on the right track

[delbs]

Just head here

Order Page (http://www.gifkins.com.au/ordersNew.html)

it is halfway down the page called Reducing collet ½” to ¼” reducing collet. 32mm long with eight slots and a flange at top. for $22

I am just using the 1/4 collet that came with my Triton router and i haven't had any issues, Are you router bits simply not tightening up with the standard collet you are using now?

[lesmeyer]

Do yourself a favour. Purchase and install the new updated collet system for the Triton router.
See pic attached.

Les

[delbs]

Do yourself a favour. Purchase and install the new updated collet system for the Triton router.
See pic attached.

Les

Where did you get this? :)

[lesmeyer]

Guys, I know that some have had good results with the Gifkins 1/4" reducer.
However, let me say that the Triton router collet (red lined) as shown by me 2 posts above is not only a pathetic excuse for a router collet, it is downright dangerous. I have had 1/2" cutters come loose after tightening the you know what on the collet.
The real solution to all of this is the new style of collets shown in the above pic. This is the style of collets that has been fitted to all Triton routers sold in the USA. They know what litigation could follow from inferior collets causing injury. However us mugs here in OZ have been ignored.
Some of the new routers slipped thru with the new collets and all JOF001 routers come with the new collets.
However I still see in Carba-Tec new routers (the big one TRA001/TRB001/TRC001 the model numbers keep changing) with the old collet.
Not all is lost. One can retro fit the new chuck and collets.
The schematics of the MOF001 and TRA001 routers on the Triton website still show the old collets systems. The JOF001 schematic shows the new collet system.
The chuck and collets for the JOF001 is the same as what I have fitted to my MOF001 and TRA001 (I compared with my JOF001).
So what is required is the following:
1. Chuck - part number for JOF001 - 0681020912R (37.3 on the schematic).
2. Now the dedicated collets for which there are only part numbers for the 12mm and 1/2" collets (1/2" = 12.7mm).
3. If you browse the http://www.toolsparesonline.com (http://www.toolsparesonline.com/) website there are collets for 6mm, 1/4"(6.35mm), 8mm, 12mm and 1/2"(12.7mm) collets each costing roughly 16GBP excl. postage.
Maybe one can get these collets from Carba-Tec - just check with them but with the Triton collet system in such a mess, I would not have high hopes. I do not see the chuck being available at toolspares website. But with the part number quoted, one should source the part here in OZ.
If anyone goes down this road, I have some doco on how to remove the old chuck and fit the new one. Alternatively you can take the parts to a tool technician for fitting.
I hope this helps anyone having problems with the Triton collet - especially reducing down to 1/4".
I can tell you that the new style of Triton collet is just as good as the collet system on my Festool OF1400 router.
Regards
Les

[delbs]

I appreciate the info here related to the new USA Triton Collet but i cannot find it anywhere. I went through all of the old posts where people found them on ebay but no luck.

Has anyone bought one of these collets recently?

[lesmeyer]

Remember the collets and the chuck are sold separately. Without the chuck the collet will be of no use.

Les

[delbs]

Okay yep no problem. Then has anyone bought the collet and chuck recently? :).

[delbs]

Hooray is this it?

http://www.toolsparesonline.com/category/1014-plunge-router-1000w-jof001-925837.aspx

[lesmeyer]

Yes, those are the collets that is referred to in point 3 in my post above. These are the dedicated collets for each size of cutter. You will still need to purchase the chuck referred to in point 1 of my post. I do not see the chuck on the website of toolspares. It may be that they have it if you ask them. As the chuck has a part number, I cannot see why Carba-Tec cannot get this in for you. As for the collets, only the 12mm and 1/2" collets have part numbers in the JOF001 schematic, which is why I refrer you to purchase them from the UK.
Regards
Les

[lesmeyer]

Just to show some photos. Pleas excuse the small size, but I think you will be able to see the difference. The B&W photo shows the 1/4" collet.
The Old chuck has the string around it.
Les

[lesmeyer]

Delbs, I do offer my most humble apologies. The toolspares website does have the new chuck on the website. It is upside down (my excuse anyway :U ). (78.1) 711027 - CHUCK BODY (http://www.toolsparesonline.com/products/7428-chuck-body.aspx) is what is required.
So there you have. 1 stop shop for all your Triton collet needs.
Les

[delbs]

Delbs, I do offer my most humble apologies. The toolspares website does have the new chuck on the website. It is upside down (my excuse anyway :U ). (78.1) 711027 - CHUCK BODY (http://www.toolsparesonline.com/products/7428-chuck-body.aspx) is what is required.
So there you have. 1 stop shop for all your Triton collet needs.
Les

No need to apologise at all, thanks for your assistance, ill be placing an order to get the new chuck and both 6mm and 8mm collet plus some beveled screws that fits my router for my new insert plate. Thanks again!

[lesmeyer]

NO NO not the 6mm. You need the 1/4" collet (6.35mm). Unless the 6mm is additional to the 1/4" and 1/2" collets.
Remember 6mm NOT EQUAL 1/4" and 12mm NOT EQUAL 1/2".
Les

[delbs]

haha yes i just noticed this as i was looking around on the website. I will post up on here my cart contents before i purchase. At this stage i just want the new chuck and collets for the TRA001, i will get the MOF001 stuff later on.

[lesmeyer]

Just beware, under the list of spares for the TRA001 is also the old style collet assemblies. The MOF001 and TRA001 take exactly the same chuck and collets.
Les

[delbs]

yeah i noticed that, so this is the same as my existing collet

Tool Spares Online. CHUCK ASSEMBLY 1/2" (http://www.toolsparesonline.com/products/6397-collet-assembly-12.aspx)

where as this is the new style for MOF001 which is compatible with the TRA001

Tool Spares Online. COLLET ASSEMBLY 12MM (http://www.toolsparesonline.com/products/6256-collet-assembly-12mm.aspx)

Yes? lol hope im on the right track :2tsup:

[delbs]

This is what i have in my cart now

270156

This should get my TRA up to new collet standards :)

[lesmeyer]

That does not look right. What you need is the following:

Tool Spares Online. COLLET ASSY 1/2" (http://www.toolsparesonline.com/products/7093-collet-assy-12.aspx)
Tool Spares Online. COLLET ASSY 1/4" (http://www.toolsparesonline.com/products/7094-collet-assy-14.aspx)
and
Tool Spares Online. CHUCK BODY (http://www.toolsparesonline.com/products/7428-chuck-body.aspx)

The reason I say this is that 99% of router cutters sold in Australia is still Imperial sizes (1/2" and 1/4") which is NOT the same as the 6mm and 12mm cutters. These smaller shanks cannot take the imperial cutters and in the same way, you cannot put 6mm and 12mm cutters in the imperial collets.
These were listed under the MOF001 list of spares, but I have used the exact same chuck and collets to upgrade both my TRA001 and also my MOF001.
Hope this helps
Les

[A Duke]

Hi,
Here is a picture of the first 2 pages of the latest hand book for the TRA001 ( bought last week.)
270158 It also shows what you could be stuck with if you buy in the wrong place.
Regards

[lesmeyer]

It is possible to use all 5 collets here in Aus if you have the cutters to match. Cutter shanks with 8mm is quite common especially if the Leigh jig is used. Festool also have a lot of 8mm and 12mm shank cutters. I would not be surprised if a few 6mm shank cutters are around, but these would be few. In fact one of our forum members picked up some bargain cutters on fleabay only to find they were 12mm shanks, He then purchased the 12mm Triton collet to be able to use the cutters.
However, we mainly use 1/2" and 1/4" shank cutters here in Aus.
Les

[A Duke]

Hi,
Looks like Japan wins with the whole set of collets as standard, but I was not just referring to the collets but also the different voltages etc also all the plugs will vary.
Regards

[delbs]

Great, I put it all in the cart to purchase and filled out all my details to only be presented with "
We're sorry, an internal error occurred that prevents the request to complete."
Winner!!!. Ill put the order through whenever their IT staff sort it out :)

[Breezy]

If anyone goes down this road, I have some doco on how to remove the old chuck and fit the new one.
Regards
Les

Les

Have ordered 2 sets of chuck & collets from a local Triton dealer for our routers @ the mens shed. :D :D

Would like a copy of doco so that we can do the replacement when they arrive.:U :U


Thanks in advance.

[lesmeyer]

Hi, I am posting what I have provided to Delbs. Not so much doco but rather a set of instructions.

The instructions that I followed is what "rayintheuk" one of our forum members provided way back in Oct 2009. The blokes name is Ray Girling and has provided many instructions about taking the router apart and assembling them.
Here is the set of instructions courtesy of Ray - It works as I have used it.
1) Remove the dust shrouds, if still fitted.
2) Completely remove both carbon motor brushes, noting their position and orientation for replacement.
3) Wind a suitable piece of string or light cord around the motor shaft so that when you pull it, it will revolve the shaft in the opposite direction to that of normal travel (see the arrow that indicates normal rotation on the base of the router for confirmation). **
4) Pull the string or cord just as you would to start a gyroscope and when the shaft is spinning, swiftly push in the spindle lock by hand. The shock should release and unwind the collet chuck assembly. If it didn't, spin the shaft faster.
5) Replace the collet chuck with the new style, winding on the upper part (with the three indent holes) as tight as you can by hand.
N.B: Do NOT try to tighten the whole assembly by using the wrench on an empty collet.
6) Plunge the router and mount a straight cutter in the ½" collet.
7) Replace the carbon brushes in their original orientation and fire up the router. Plunge the bit into a piece of scrap hardwood to ensure final tightening of the assembly.
8) Replace the dust shrouds if you use them.

** If you have an airline, you can use this instead of the string or cord. Just point it at the cooling fan (at step 3) above) to spin the shaft backwards. Don't go mad with the speed of rotation!


I have sent Ray a PM as a courtesy that I shared his instructions. He has been more than helpful regarding the Triton routers over the years.
I used the string to unwind the chuck ( what Ray refers to as the motor shaft). It took a few attempts because the string I had was weak. So a strong piece of string will make the job much easier.
Believe me, these collets are far superior to what you have on your router. Using the router becomes a pleasure and much safer and also ensuring no slippage of cutters to ruin the workpiece.
Oh, and you need to modify your spanner to fit the new collet. What I did was to file the my spanner to 24mm taking a little off on each side.
Woodcraft in the USA have a nifty spanner to fit the new collets. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/208...n-routers.aspx (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2083100/33088/woodriver-1516-offset-router-collet-wrench-for-bosch-makita-and-214hp-triton-routers.aspx)

Regards
Les

[jw2170]

Hi, I am posting what I have provided to Delbs. Not so much doco but rather a set of instructions.

The instructions that I followed is what "rayintheuk" one of our forum members provided way back in Oct 2009. The blokes name is Ray Girling and has provided many instructions about taking the router apart and assembling them.
Here is the set of instructions courtesy of Ray - It works as I have used it.
1) Remove the dust shrouds, if still fitted.
2) Completely remove both carbon motor brushes, noting their position and orientation for replacement.
3) Wind a suitable piece of string or light cord around the motor shaft so that when you pull it, it will revolve the shaft in the opposite direction to that of normal travel (see the arrow that indicates normal rotation on the base of the router for confirmation). **
4) Pull the string or cord just as you would to start a gyroscope and when the shaft is spinning, swiftly push in the spindle lock by hand. The shock should release and unwind the collet chuck assembly. If it didn't, spin the shaft faster.
5) Replace the collet chuck with the new style, winding on the upper part (with the three indent holes) as tight as you can by hand.
N.B: Do NOT try to tighten the whole assembly by using the wrench on an empty collet.
6) Plunge the router and mount a straight cutter in the ½" collet.
7) Replace the carbon brushes in their original orientation and fire up the router. Plunge the bit into a piece of scrap hardwood to ensure final tightening of the assembly.
8) Replace the dust shrouds if you use them.

** If you have an airline, you can use this instead of the string or cord. Just point it at the cooling fan (at step 3) above) to spin the shaft backwards. Don't go mad with the speed of rotation!


I have sent Ray a PM as a courtesy that I shared his instructions. He has been more than helpful regarding the Triton routers over the years.
I used the string to unwind the chuck ( what Ray refers to as the motor shaft). It took a few attempts because the string I had was weak. So a strong piece of string will make the job much easier.
Believe me, these collets are far superior to what you have on your router. Using the router becomes a pleasure and much safer and also ensuring no slippage of cutters to ruin the workpiece.
Oh, and you need to modify your spanner to fit the new collet. What I did was to file the my spanner to 24mm taking a little off on each side.
Woodcraft in the USA have a nifty spanner to fit the new collets. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/208...n-routers.aspx (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2083100/33088/woodriver-1516-offset-router-collet-wrench-for-bosch-makita-and-214hp-triton-routers.aspx)

Regards
Les

Thanks Les........subscribed for future reference.

PS I have a TRA001 (old) and TRB001 (new). I have not had any problems with either style collet and have used the Gifkins 1/4 reducer in my Makita 3612C with no problems.

[delbs]

I have too ordered the new 1/" and 1/4" collet along with chuck body and mounting screws to attache to my kreg insert plate. Should be here soon enough yay!

[delbs]

My new chuck body, collets,mounting screws arrived for the TRA001. Now can get started on drilling holes in the Kreg plate and swapping out the collets on both routers. :2tsup:

[delbs]

Okay I Suck at installing this bew chuck. Has anyone got a photo of how to get at the brushes? Also why do I need the string to hold the existing chuck?

[lesmeyer]

Do not attempt to spin the chuck off while the brushes are still in. This will damage the brushes. Removing the brushes is the easy part. On each side of the router there is a black plastic screw cap. Turn these out and make a note of the brushes and the orientation for re-install - this is important. Once this is done, the string is used to spin the chuck off as per the instruction that I passed on to you that was given by Ray Girling.
Those instructions are complete and I used them to do 2 routers (MOF001 and TRA001).
Regards
Les

[delbs]

Thanks again, ill give it a shot this afternoon.

[lesmeyer]

Hi Delbs - PM sent.
Les

[delbs]

Les you are a champion!


It took a total 15 minutes to install new chuck body and collet. And now my larger router bits don't slip at ALL!

This dramatically improved my confidence in this router hopefully for years to come, :)

[Breezy]

Les
Have ordered 2 sets of chuck & collets from a local Triton dealer for our routers @ the mens shed. :D :D
Would like a copy of doco so that we can do the replacement when they arrive.:U :U
Thanks in advance.

Well back on 10th June I tried to get the spares through the local Triton dealer, it was a waste of time, :no: it's not the dealer's fault but the Australian distributer who didn't stock the chuck body :? and after a lot of back and forth between the two, told the dealer to order it direct from O/S. :o Then the dealer couldn't order direct from the manufacture. :doh: (11 weeks wasted). :C

I decided to get them from Toolspares Online, placed the order 15th August with the cheapest shipping and they arrived today, 12 days!!!. :2tsup: Will install them next Monday when I go to the Mens Shed again. :U:U

[lesmeyer]

Good luck with the install. I have some more info for you for the install.
PM sent.
Les

[DaveTTC]

checking this out in Canberra, gone to the stand to see what they are

[Mardi]

I know this an old post but I just came across it after buying a Triton router on EBay which had no collets. I bought collets for it but they would not fit. I ordered the chuck body and used the instructions, It worked perfectly, continuing to spin it sel off the router. Thank you so much, and thank you Ray.
John


Hi, I am posting what I have provided to Delbs. Not so much doco but rather a set of instructions.

The instructions that I followed is what "rayintheuk" one of our forum members provided way back in Oct 2009. The blokes name is Ray Girling and has provided many instructions about taking the router apart and assembling them.
Here is the set of instructions courtesy of Ray - It works as I have used it.
1) Remove the dust shrouds, if still fitted.
2) Completely remove both carbon motor brushes, noting their position and orientation for replacement.
3) Wind a suitable piece of string or light cord around the motor shaft so that when you pull it, it will revolve the shaft in the opposite direction to that of normal travel (see the arrow that indicates normal rotation on the base of the router for confirmation). **
4) Pull the string or cord just as you would to start a gyroscope and when the shaft is spinning, swiftly push in the spindle lock by hand. The shock should release and unwind the collet chuck assembly. If it didn't, spin the shaft faster.
5) Replace the collet chuck with the new style, winding on the upper part (with the three indent holes) as tight as you can by hand.
N.B: Do NOT try to tighten the whole assembly by using the wrench on an empty collet.
6) Plunge the router and mount a straight cutter in the ½" collet.
7) Replace the carbon brushes in their original orientation and fire up the router. Plunge the bit into a piece of scrap hardwood to ensure final tightening of the assembly.
8) Replace the dust shrouds if you use them.

** If you have an airline, you can use this instead of the string or cord. Just point it at the cooling fan (at step 3) above) to spin the shaft backwards. Don't go mad with the speed of rotation!


I have sent Ray a PM as a courtesy that I shared his instructions. He has been more than helpful regarding the Triton routers over the years.
I used the string to unwind the chuck ( what Ray refers to as the motor shaft). It took a few attempts because the string I had was weak. So a strong piece of string will make the job much easier.
Believe me, these collets are far superior to what you have on your router. Using the router becomes a pleasure and much safer and also ensuring no slippage of cutters to ruin the workpiece.
Oh, and you need to modify your spanner to fit the new collet. What I did was to file the my spanner to 24mm taking a little off on each side.
Woodcraft in the USA have a nifty spanner to fit the new collets. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/208...n-routers.aspx (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2083100/33088/woodriver-1516-offset-router-collet-wrench-for-bosch-makita-and-214hp-triton-routers.aspx)

Regards
Les