issatree
21st May 2013, 03:00 AM
Hi To You All,
I've been doing a fair bit of Spindle Work lately.
I have been using wood 180mm. - 7in x 10mm. - 3/8in. x 3/8in., then taking that down to žin. then to 1/8in. in places.
So therefore you can get quite a lot of Vibration Waves in the Item, & it can depend on what Wood you use.
I have found that Leatherwood ( Tas.) is one of the best, & Cotoneaster, Cypress, Oak, as well, & this is using the Short Point of my 24 x 8mm. P&N Skew.
So, for the Woods that don't Preform to well with a Skew, I now use the Long Point, Sharpened in the Raffan Style, with a Curved Blade, & approx. 15 - 16mm Bevel.
Yes, you have to be careful, & quite attentive, but I seem to have little trouble, doing it this way, & of course NO Vibrations. Tool Rest must be up very close to revolving wood, & about the thickness of the Blade below the wood.
Most always this is done at 3000 RPM.
Wood not even think of doing it any Slower, but that is me.
I've been doing a fair bit of Spindle Work lately.
I have been using wood 180mm. - 7in x 10mm. - 3/8in. x 3/8in., then taking that down to žin. then to 1/8in. in places.
So therefore you can get quite a lot of Vibration Waves in the Item, & it can depend on what Wood you use.
I have found that Leatherwood ( Tas.) is one of the best, & Cotoneaster, Cypress, Oak, as well, & this is using the Short Point of my 24 x 8mm. P&N Skew.
So, for the Woods that don't Preform to well with a Skew, I now use the Long Point, Sharpened in the Raffan Style, with a Curved Blade, & approx. 15 - 16mm Bevel.
Yes, you have to be careful, & quite attentive, but I seem to have little trouble, doing it this way, & of course NO Vibrations. Tool Rest must be up very close to revolving wood, & about the thickness of the Blade below the wood.
Most always this is done at 3000 RPM.
Wood not even think of doing it any Slower, but that is me.