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Don Nethercott
7th May 2005, 09:17 PM
Hi Folks,
I am trying to make a cheese platter with a glass centre. The base is 300mm dia Silky Oak with a 195mm dia 3mm deep recess for the glass. The glass is colouted but translucent. I want to glue or otherwise attach the glass so it won't fall out.

I was thinking of a clear silicone bead around the edge that would not only hold in the glass but stop crumbs getting in the gap.

The glass is translucent so the woodgrain shows through, so I don't want the glue to be visible.

Any suggestions/thoughts would be appreciated.
A photo is attached.
Thanks
Don

Sprog
7th May 2005, 09:43 PM
Clear Araldite around the edge ;)

Don Nethercott
7th May 2005, 09:56 PM
Thanks Sprog. Certainly should not move with Araldite. Is clear Araldite a special formula sold by that name?
I've polished all of the wood with Shellawax. Should I remove the polish around the rim where the Araldite will go or will the araldite stick to the Shellawax?
Thanks
Don

Sprog
7th May 2005, 10:33 PM
Thanks Sprog. Certainly should not move with Araldite. Is clear Araldite a special formula sold by that name?

Yes, Araldite Clear.


I've polished all of the wood with Shellawax. Should I remove the polish around the rim where the Araldite will go or will the Araldite stick to the Shellawax?
Thanks
Don

You will need to remove the polish for the Araldite to adhere properly.
Just down near the bottom of the recess will be fine.

Don Nethercott
7th May 2005, 10:36 PM
Thanks for the advice Sprog. Will give it a go once I get some Araldite.
Don

RETIRED
7th May 2005, 11:52 PM
Thanks for the advice Sprog. Will give it a go once I get some Araldite.
Don
I hate to be a party pooper, BUT, you run the risk of breaking the tile if you use a solid adhesive due to the expansion and contraction of the timber.

We always used silicon to hold tiles in.

Selleys all clear might be a good option but I have never used it in this application. It dries clearer than silicon.

gatiep
8th May 2005, 01:18 AM
How about 3 tiny miniature ( in other words small ) blobs of hotmelt glue right in the corner of the recess. This stuff is clear, allows movement, cheap even if you have to buy a gun, easy to apply and very handy in a workshop to hold things...........like a glue chuck on a lathe. I glue in round ceramic clock and trivett tiles with it all the time.


Incidentally, it won't be necessary to remove the Shellawax in those three spots with hotmelt.

rodm
8th May 2005, 01:26 AM
It may be better to leave the glass tile floating. Gravity will hold it in place and being able to remove the glass and wash it might be a feature. Three of those self adhesive clear buttons recessed but proud of the timber bottom will help with levelling if there is any timber movement.

Don Nethercott
8th May 2005, 09:24 AM
Back to the drawing board - looks like I'll have to find a few spare pieces of glass any try all 3 options to se which works best.

Had thought of leaving the glass floating but knpwing me I'll pick up the platter one day and tip ot over and drop the glass. At $17 each for the glass tiles that could become expensive.

Was going to use ceramic tiles but have you ever tried to buy them - they don't seem to exist (round ones that is).

Carba-tec have some nice ones but they couldn't tell me if the pattern on it was fired in or a transfer. If a transfer it wouldn't take long to be defaced if cutting on the tile using a cheese knife.

Thanks folks,
Don

JackoH
8th May 2005, 09:27 AM
I make Cheese Boards with tile inserts, and use only silicone. as usual, is spot-on.

gatiep
8th May 2005, 12:24 PM
Don

The round tiles that Carbatec in Perth sells have the images fired on. The images won't come off. However they may not be from the same supplier as the ones you get.The ones in Perth are around $9-00 each.

Jim Carroll
22nd May 2005, 10:35 PM
You will find that all the tiles are fired on decals.