PhilthyMills 14th June 2013, 09:38 PM G'day All,
Picked up a nicely running used Husky 350 for a song from my local dealership. I knew it had the following issue, but couldn't pass it up for the money:
Original owner brought it in for a check-over, and was complaining that he couldn't keep the bar tight. Turns out the bar has been repeatedly over-tightened by the original owner, and this has resulted in the bar bolts starting to pull through the case a few millimetres which means the bolts actually protrude more than they're supposed to. This has also resulted in a small oil leak from the bar bolt area.
Apart from this, it seems like a great saw.:2tsup:
I'd like to strip the saw down, clean it up and try to rectify the issue.
Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated, or can someone point me in the right direction on this forum?
Have thought of putting a collar/shim or a washer on the bolt from inside the oil tank, to try and bring the bolts back to their proper spot.
Thanks in advance.
Phil
DJ’s Timber 14th June 2013, 09:46 PM Not familiar with the Husky saw, but from experience, most saws I've handled have studs not bolts. So if it has studs, it would indicate that he has actually pulled the studs through the threads and depending on casing you may need to put some helicoils or inserts in.
PhilthyMills 15th June 2013, 12:59 PM Not familiar with the Husky saw, but from experience, most saws I've handled have studs not bolts. So if it has studs, it would indicate that he has actually pulled the studs through the threads and depending on casing you may need to put some helicoils or inserts in.
Are helicoils and/or inserts readily available? I've not heard of them before, but they look ideal (from my Internet search just now...).
Are special tools required for this?
DJ’s Timber 15th June 2013, 01:04 PM Yes they are readily available, most engineering/bearing/hydrualic places stock them and some auto shops as well.
If you were closer, I'd offer to look and insert one if needed as I have various sizes here.
No real speciality tools need, just a tap wrench but a small shifter would do the job with care
shedbound 15th June 2013, 03:05 PM I know on my Husky the flat head bolts push in from inside the oil tank, rather annoying if they happen to slide back into the tank.:no:
PhilthyMills 15th June 2013, 06:40 PM I know on my Husky the flat head bolts push in from inside the oil tank, rather annoying if they happen to slide back into the tank.:no:
Hmmm, thanks for that. From what the shop were saying, it sounds like my saw might be the same (bolts in through the oil tank). Have you replaced your bar studs/bolts on your Husky?
PhilthyMills 15th June 2013, 06:43 PM Yes they are readily available, most engineering/bearing/hydrualic places stock them and some auto shops as well.
If you were closer, I'd offer to look and insert one if needed as I have various sizes here.
No real speciality tools need, just a tap wrench but a small shifter would do the job with care
Thanks! I'll look into the helicoils.
Another member posted about his Husky, saying that his has flat-head type bolts that go in through the oil tank. I'll do some more research and strip the saw down to work it out...
shedbound 15th June 2013, 06:46 PM yes I have replaced them, and also had them disappear into the oil tank, bit fiddly but can be done with a pair of pointnose pliers
DJ’s Timber 15th June 2013, 08:20 PM Thanks! I'll look into the helicoils.
Another member posted about his Husky, saying that his has flat-head type bolts that go in through the oil tank. I'll do some more research and strip the saw down to work it out...
No worries, would be good if you could take some pics and document the process to help anyone in the future to fix or avoid the same problem.
PhilthyMills 15th June 2013, 09:51 PM yes I have replaced them, and also had them disappear into the oil tank, bit fiddly but can be done with a pair of pointnose pliers
Thanks, that's good to know. Don't suppose you noticed if it was possible for the flat-headed bolts to pull through the casing?
If this IS what's happening to my saw, I'd be interested to know folks' suggestions for ensuring that the bar-studs/bolts remain in their right position.
What a great forum!
DJ’s Timber 15th June 2013, 10:04 PM If this IS what's happening to my saw, I'd be interested to know folks' suggestions for ensuring that the bar-studs/bolts remain in their right position.
Two suggestion I'd make to start off with, is to always hold the tip of the bar up when tightening the nuts as this places the bar in the correct position with the right tension and to just snug the bolts up with finger tension not full hand pressure.
I use my thumb on the socket and fingers on the wrench, if needed I'll take some pics to demonstrate what I mean.
shedbound 16th June 2013, 01:32 AM From memory(i'll double check) the bolts heads should seat on a metal "plate"(for lack of the correct name) within the tank.
if you could take a few pics I might be more help. Are the nuts bottoming out before the bar is tight?
PhilthyMills 16th June 2013, 08:33 PM From memory(i'll double check) the bolts heads should seat on a metal "plate"(for lack of the correct name) within the tank.
if you could take a few pics I might be more help. Are the nuts bottoming out before the bar is tight?
Thanks for your reply!
I stripped the saw down today and cleaned it thoroughly. I removed the steel 'plate' cover on the clutch side, and noticed that only ONE of the bar bolts is the issue. It's the bolt toward the front of the saw.
It protrudes out 5mm-7mm further than the other bolt, and has pulled the casing plastic out a fraction as well. This has caused the SMALLEST of cracks in the plastic around the bolt, and this appears to be where the oil leak is.
So to answer your question - yes, the front bar bolt does bottom-out on the thread.
I'll try to take some pics tomorrow and post them, but not sure if my 'post status' will allow me to or not.
I'm not sure how I'll fix the small crack around the bar bolt; perhaps heat that section, push it back into shape (hardly any 'pushing' required)? Perhaps I could then re-drill the bolt hole in the case and insert a helicoil?...
Dunno, I'll have another look and ponder tomorrow...
But any thoughts or revelations would be fab'...
PhilthyMills 16th June 2013, 08:36 PM Two suggestion I'd make to start off with, is to always hold the tip of the bar up when tightening the nuts as this places the bar in the correct position with the right tension and to just snug the bolts up with finger tension not full hand pressure.
I use my thumb on the socket and fingers on the wrench, if needed I'll take some pics to demonstrate what I mean.
Thanks DJ,
Silly question, but I'm assuming that after you've done the nuts up to finger tension and the bar is straight, that you're using your spark plug wrench to tighten it?...
shedbound 17th June 2013, 12:34 AM Hi again, I checked on my saw, just empty the bar oil and visually inspect inside the oil tank. The rectangular bolt/stud heads should be seated into a metal c channel that is about 4 inches long, this is what stops the bolts rotating and pulling into the plastic when tightening the bar.
PhilthyMills 17th June 2013, 04:29 PM Hi again, I checked on my saw, just empty the bar oil and visually inspect inside the oil tank. The rectangular bolt/stud heads should be seated into a metal c channel that is about 4 inches long, this is what stops the bolts rotating and pulling into the plastic when tightening the bar.
Ive been trying to upload 2 photos that I took of the bar bolts, but not sure if it's working or not. Hope so!...
One pic shows the dud-bolt, and the small flathead screwdriver is pointing to the area in the casing that has cracked / been "pulled out". The other photo shows both bar bolts, and the difference in length is noticeable.
Just had a look in the oil tank and can see the c-channel you refer to. Looks more difficult to replace just one bolt than I'd thought...
I've got the Husqvarna workshop manual on computer, so might have a gander at that too.
Thanks for all your help.
dai sensei 17th June 2013, 04:37 PM Looks more like someone dropped the saw and the bolt has been moved sideways, breaking the molding too
PhilthyMills 17th June 2013, 06:33 PM ...reckon you might be right about the saw being dropped at one point; probably contributed to the crack, etc...
I managed to get the flat-head bar bolts out of the oil tank. And yes - there is the c-channel section with the recess for the bolt heads.
The bolt heads were actually snapped half off (two pieces of metal floating around in the tank), and the c-channel bracket was bent. Man, the previous owner must've REALLY been yanking on those bar nuts!! :o
The c-channel had been pulled into the casing, and in doing so had bent/warped its shape. Reckon I can just 'panel-beat' it back to nearly straight. Where the casing has been pulled-in by the c-channel in the oil tank (and subsequently pulled out on the exterior of the case), I reckon I might use a small spacer the same size and shape as the ends of the c-channel bracket, to go between the c-channel bracket and the case. Might also use some silicone sealant to help plug any tiny gaps.
Using a soldering iron, I've also started 'heating' the exterior of the case where the front bar-bolt comes out. I've managed to fix the crack a bit, and have reshaped the hole to look as it should.
Geez, I should've taken some photos coz this all might not make much sense! Will do tomorrow and post them tomorrow arvo.
PhilthyMills 18th June 2013, 05:53 PM So here's some pics of the bar bolts and the c-channel referred to my post above.
You can clearly see that the square bolt heads have snapped, and the holes in the c-channel bracket have been 'pulled inwards' by the force of the bar tensioning. The screwdriver is pointing to a slight stress-fracture in the bracket, but I don't think this will be a serious issue.
Turns out the c-channel bracket isn't available as a part on its own. It comes as part of the whole case! :~
So I'll need to do some slight panel-beating. I've ordered two new bar-bolts from the local dudes.
Another question: what type of silicone sealant would be appropriate to assist in helping to plug any gaps around the bar bolts and the c-channel bracket? :?
The final pic is my rough handiwork trying to reshape the bolt holes. Worked , just doesn't look great.
shedbound 18th June 2013, 07:43 PM Oh my:o, someone has been a little clueless before you, I assume you have removed the metal cover plate that the bar sits against and covers the adjustment screw? I hope it has one
PhilthyMills 18th June 2013, 07:59 PM Yep, still have the metal plate. It also needs a little bit of TLC, but should come up pretty well.
Any thoughts on silicone sealant for around the bar-bolt holes??...
As I start to put the saw back together, I'll try to take some more photos and post how I've done things (hopefully it all comes together well!)
Thankyou again for your interest in my thread.
shedbound 18th June 2013, 08:03 PM I would be inclined to try a thin fiber washer or the like as silicon might make thing hard down the track
PhilthyMills 23rd June 2013, 06:38 PM Well, the saw is now back together and SO FAR SO GOOD! :U
I ordered two new bar- bolts ($11), and did some meatball panel-beating to the metal c-channel bracket that houses the bar-bolt heads inside the case.
On shining a torch inside the oil tank, I noticed that the area of plastic casing around the front bar-bolt was pulled in slightly more than the the rear bar-bolt.
To try and rectify this, I made a small spacer/washer that is roughly the same thickness as the section of casing that has been pulled in. This sits between the plastic casing and the metal bracket. So once the metal bracket and bolts were re-inserted into the case, this little spacer effectively allowed the bar-bolt to only protrude out of the case as far as it is supposed to.
As the photos below hopefully show, I also took the advice of Shedbound (thanks mate! :2tsup: ) and used two thin fibre washers that are pressed into the inside of the casing at the bar-bolt holes.
I used a thin piece of wire and some cotton thread to pull the bolts through the holes (see pic).
One photo shows the parts I've used, and another photo shows how the parts will sit once inside the case (note the small spacer and fibre washers). The third photos shows the bar-bolts reinserted. They protrude nearly the same distance from the case.
Finally, I succumbed to using the smallest amount of silicone inside the case near the holes and the fibre washers, and also the tiniest amount of silicone on the outside of the case where the bolts protrude.
Thus far the bar has remained tight, the chain runs smoothly, and the oil leak has improved considerably.
Thanks to all for their thoughts and advice! This forum is the ducks-guts!
shedbound 24th June 2013, 12:14 AM glad you got things sorted, hope the fiber washer hang in there for you:2tsup:
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