My tailstock chuck slipped once too often

[nearnexus]

Finally spat the dummy on my tailstock chuck slipping in the jaws at inconvenient times.

It's a quality chuck (Metabo) and it's not that old, but I often find a drill will slip in it at times.

Annoying. The damn chuck finally wore out it's welcome.

So I thought, stuff this, no more drill chucks, buy an ER32 morse 3 for the tailstock and use the collet set instead.

It arrived today and I'm quite pleased with it. Seems nicely made. So hopefully no more problems.

Photo attached.

The well used one in the headstock is CTC, but this one is from an independent seller on Ebay as CTC couldn't supply one.

273521

Rob

[cba_melbourne]

I did the same a few years ago, only mine is MT2. ER collets can grip a drill chuck with MUCH greater force than a drill chuck. The downside is, it takes longer to clamp a random size drill, as often another size collet is needed, and it takes tools to change a drill.

By the way, Metabo chucks are rebadged Röhm chucks. Just as good as genuine Röhm chucks. The best keyless chucks I know of for lathe use are either Albrecht, or Röhm "Spiro", both are German made, both are unfortunately expensive. Chris

PS: The morse taper of a collet chuck can very easily slip in a tailstock barrel (instead of the drill slipping in the chuck). A tommy bar or similar contraption is recommended. If an MT shaft once slips in the Tailstock barrel, the barrel will be damaged. And tailstock barrels cost more than chucks.

[toolman49]

G'Day Rob,
I have been using 3MT ER32 In my tailstock for about 3 years now and wouldn't hold a centre bit or reamer with anything else.
Regards,
Martin

[Jekyll and Hyde]

I did the same thing for my lathe not so long ago, mostly to hold taps while I turn the spindle over by hand. I'm intrigued by your comment on CTC not being able to supply one though - is he out of stock? Perhaps I bought the last one....

[nearnexus]

I did the same thing for my lathe not so long ago, mostly to hold taps while I turn the spindle over by hand. I'm intrigued by your comment on CTC not being able to supply one though - is he out of stock? Perhaps I bought the last one....

I looked there first and I couldn't see any with a tang listed.

It's interesting that the flats on the spindle and the new tailstock holder are identical. Is there a standard for this aspect ?

The spindle Morse is No 4 and tailstock is No 3.

Rob

[Pete F]

Rob I also have a Metabo drill chuck in an MT2 taper and likewise find it can sometimes slip. The solution is then just to use a keyed chuck, as it grips with much greater force.

With regard a taper not having a tang, it's no big deal, you can either buy a commercial tang to screw in to the drawbar hole, make up your own, or put a bolt in it. Some of my dead centres with no thread and too short to eject I just welded a "knob" on the back to increase the length so they will eject.

Pete

[nearnexus]

With regard a taper not having a tang, it's no big deal, you can either buy a commercial tang to screw in to the drawbar hole, make up your own, or put a bolt in it. Some of my dead centres with no thread and too short to eject I just welded a "knob" on the back to increase the length so they will eject.

Pete

Good idea Pete. Hadn't considered that.

Yes, ejection can be an issue otherwise.

Cheers

Rob

[Anorak Bob]

Rob,

If my memory serves me well, you had a Jacobs Super Ball Bearing chuck in the 102's tailstock. They don't slip. Swap arbors and give it a go.:)

Bob.

[nearnexus]

Rob,

If my memory serves me well, you had a Jacobs Super Ball Bearing chuck in the 102's tailstock. They don't slip. Swap arbors and give it a go.:)

Bob.

Yes, your memory is correct Bob.

I looked at that the other day, as it's really way too big for the 102, but I couldn't see an easy way to separate the arbor from the chuck. Tried a few things lightly, but it seems pretty tight, so left it for now.

May need wedges to get it off.

Rob

[Combustor]

I am still grateful that a crafty old manual training instructor about 60 years ago showed us young lads (who already knew everything) that there were three holes in a keyed chuck so that you could tighten it three times. You gain a little at each hole. Have never worn chuck jaws or stuffed drill shanks since that time, but we won't mention the odd snapped drill. Combustor.

[Anorak Bob]

Yes, your memory is correct Bob.

I looked at that the other day, as it's really way too big for the 102, but I couldn't see an easy way to separate the arbor from the chuck. Tried a few things lightly, but it seems pretty tight, so left it for now.

May need wedges to get it off.

Rob

Got a blue and white striped apron Rob? Drill a centre hole all the way through the body of the chuck and whack the arbor out with a drift through the hole.

[Ueee]

Whilst you should now never have a problem with slipping drills, changing them would drive me mad. It seems strange to me that a Rohm would be giving you problems.
I have LFA (french Precision Keyless Chucks (http://www.lfachucks.com/Precision_Keyless_Chucks.html)) keyless chucks on both the Mars and the HM50. The only time i ever have had slip is with taps, and i have spun a 16mm drill, its the largest i have that is not an taper shank. Taps slip as they have hard shanks, drill shanks are not hard, so the chuck does get a bit of bite. Otherwise no problem. Even with taps a good strangle and they don't slip. I machine tapped all the M8 holes in my QCTP holders a few days back with no problems.
Cheers,
Ew

[jack620]

I use a Taiwanese 3-16mm keyless chuck in my TS. I've never had a drill bit slip in it. However I have had the 2MT arbor slip in the tailstock a few times. I need to look at some sort of tommy bar as Chris recommends.

[nearnexus]

I use a Taiwanese 3-16mm keyless chuck in my TS. I've never had a drill bit slip in it. However I have had the 2MT arbor slip in the tailstock a few times. I need to look at some sort of tommy bar as Chris recommends.

The drills aren't actually spinnng in the chuck, but pushing back into it when I use the ram on the tailstock.

This stuffs up my depth settings.

I'm not one of those guys that pushes the drill bit in as far as it will go, as thats not what drills are designed for.

You should always leave enough shank out of the chuck to take the torque variations and prevent breakage.

I've seen enough drills shatter in my lifetime, that's why eye protection is essential.

I actually had a large drill shatter into three pieces on a drill press once and one bit which had a spear shaped end finished up stuck in my forearm about half an inch.

Just shows what can happen when things go pear shaped.

Rob

[j.ashburn]

:2tsup:
I am still grateful that a crafty old manual training instructor about 60 years ago showed us young lads (who already knew everything) that there were three holes in a keyed chuck so that you could tighten it three times. You gain a little at each hole. Have never worn chuck jaws or stuffed drill shanks since that time, but we won't mention the odd snapped drill. Combustor.

[Pete F]

Yes I was taught the same, and it can make a big difference. Incidentally it's the same way a 3 jaw lathe chuck "should" (in a perfect world) be tightened; tighten the #1 first as it's the master jaw, then 2 and 3 (though I don't believe the order of the last two is significant). I've never seen a master jaw marked on a drill chuck however, anyone?

[Jekyll and Hyde]

I looked there first and I couldn't see any with a tang listed.


Ahh, that explains it. Mine doesn't have a tang, but it's long enough to eject just fine by winding the tailstock quill in - on my lathe at least. If it hadn't been, I would have done as PeteF suggested, and screwed something into the drawbar thread...

[th62]

I have a keyless Metabo that I bought about 20 years go and a H&F locking keyless. The Metabo I use on the Lathe, it slips occasionally but it's a lot better than the Locking H&F which I use on the press, what a heap of rubbish: won't lock, won't unlock and won't hold a drill for longer than a few seconds.