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Martin B.
22nd July 2013, 05:49 PM
Hi all,
The build story of my YOST Sea Cruiser.
When I first spotted a pic on the Internet of a SoF being held above the head with one hand I knew I had to get/make one to replace my nice but sturdy plastic Prijon Touryak of 26kg. Unfortunately no Skin-on-Frame kayaks had previously been built on this side of the Australian continent and information on building fuselage style SoFs was also non existent locally.
The 'great man' Tom Y. was most helpful with advice on craft selection to suit my local paddling conditions o a 137 sq km estuary and associated minor rivers (2) plus allow for my aged and somewhat damaged carcase. I read and re-read Yostwerks on-line info and followed the Internet Manual fairly closely.

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However I attached all 6 frames to the strongback to guarantee the design rocker was achieved and to ensure that the keelson was straight. To give a little higher sheer line at the bow to counteract out local short, steep chop on the wide open estuary areas I took the liberty of raising the inwale height at station 2 vertically by 5mm and at station 1 by 10mm.
After having a trial paddle in a friends Tahe Greenland 'T' to see how narrow Greenland style kayaks handle with 90+kg paddler on board, I raised the aft deck beams 10mm to make the aft deck a little more water shedding than the standard flat aft deck.


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That's the Prijon Touryak hanging above the SoF frame in the garage.

Purchased a 5.8m (19')long of straight clear lightweight Western Red Cedar and cut all the longitudinals (inwales, chines, deck beams, keelson) out of the one piece with sufficient WRC left over to make the cockpit floor boards, foot-braces etc.
The final size of the Western Red Cedar longitudinals, as determined by the rip sawing from one 100mm x 50mm rough sawn plank are :-
Inwales : 36.5mm x 19.5mm
Chines, keel, deck beams : 25mm x 19mm
The frames and stem & stern plates are from 12mm marine plywood; the 'breast hooks' (if such exist on a kayak) are from some 9 mm marine plywood I had on hand. The complete set of 6 frames weighed only 1028 grams.

The chines, inwales and keel were epoxy glued and screwed to the frames but when the glue hardened the screws were removed and replaced by glued dowels.
My Tahe friend loaned me his SmartTrack footrests for a guide for installing timbers to suit commercial footrests (conveniently SmartTrack, SeaLect and Yakima all use the same 14.5" longitudinal hole centres) but the commercial sets were too heavy so I made timber 'pegs' matching the same fixing centres.

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The weight of the SmartTrack footrests (right) was 470 gm whilst the weight of my timber equivalent (left) is only 146 gm with its first coat of varnish and the timber was all scrap bits for zero cost; lightening holes were sawn in the ply pads before final varnishing.

Apart from four S/S screws allowing adjustment of the footrests, there are no fasteners in the kayak.

The most difficult part of the build was the cockpit coaming. "Cut and stacked" plywood was going to be too heavy, extremely wasteful of plywood and expensive however the alternative, steam bendable timbers, are hard to find in Western Australia. Did find a piece of American White Oak (some used in Aust for flooring) but it was already kiln dried and the grain was not quite straight enough. Finally succeeded with steam bending and laminating “green” Australian Spotted Gum.

The finished frame weighed in at 7kg

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Ballistic nylon skin and the associated "Goop", dye, synthetic sinew and floatation bags were imported from Corey's SkinBoats, USA.

There were a couple of small wrinkles in the nylon skin at the aft end of the cockpit but judicious and VERY careful use of a hot air gun successfully removed the wrinkles.

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The finished product weighed 11.7kg (under 26 lbs) and is, of course, paddled with a self-made, lightweight GP also carved from WRC.

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On Launching Day, the champagne honours went to my wife - pouring a small amount across the bows with the remainder going to the assembled “launching party”.

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It has been a most enjoyable and challenging build; the craft carves thru the water with absolutely no fuss and minimal wake disturbance. Many thanks to Tom Yost for his marvellous, free design.

(Happy to answer any queries on the build within my particular sphere of [un]expertise !)

Cheers,
Martin B.
Mandurah, Western Australia
[email protected]

tomtre
25th July 2013, 03:02 PM
Well done Martin
I have looked at the Yost pages many times and its great to see that one has been made. His website has a lot of detail doesn't it?
Its got me thinking!!
Tom

labr@
26th July 2013, 10:21 PM
Nice boat Martin. I recently built a Kudzu Curlew SOF and it came in at just over 14 kg so you've done well keeping the weight down.

How did you go with applying the goop? I understand it is a 2 part coating.

There is another SOF being built in Mandurah at present, a Kudzu designed Shad. Apparently the builder is moving soon but it may still pop up in your neck of the woods and it could be interesting to compare notes.

Martin B.
27th July 2013, 04:32 PM
Hi Labr@

If you have the contact details for the builder of the Kudzu Shad SoF in Mandurah would you please pass on my contact details below and ask him/her to contact me to compare info/pics etc and paddle when the gales and rain stops.

Re applying "Goop", yes it is 2 pack from Corey's SkinBoats and came with the water soluble dye and synthetic sinew cordage. The dye was easy but it came out a bit blotchy and streaky particularly where the skin was in physical contact with the timber deck beams. However genuine seal skin is not a constant colour so if anybody comments on the kayak's colour I just say it is true to genuine seal skin colours.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=278679&stc=1

There are a couple of "runs" in the Goop application but nothing too untoward. We started applying the Goop with the Corey supplied plastic spreader tool a bit late in the day and were nearly finished when my assistant had to depart for tea; I stopped shortly thereafter too - ERROR !
Really need to follow the supplier's recommendation and "ride herd" over the resin coating continuously for about 2 hours to spread it out evenly before it develops runs and the resin sets too much to spread. Next time I will start immediately after lunch and keep a much closer eye on the resin.

timtre suggested I add some more background on my build:-

Actually with the SoF, I was more interested in 'the destination' [a lightweight SoF] rather than 'the journey' i.e. the kayak building itself.

Having said that, building the Sea Cruiser was a terrific project with a great result and, once the first cut was made, the job was fairly easy. The important thing was, firstly, I got the lightweight I wanted for ease of handling on and off the car and around the beaches and secondly, the Yost fuselage frame method was obviously an easier and faster route to a greenlander than the Brian Schulz's Traditional Replica route with 25+ steam bent frames of unknown length and lots of morticing woodwork.

Finding the info, pouring through Tom Yost's website Wood Frame Kayak Builders Manual - Homebuilt SOF kayaks by Thomas Yost (http://yostwerks.com/WoodSOFMain.html) , making the decision on which design, worrying about and finding the timber(s) took far more time than the actual build job :B

Luckily one of our local Canoe Club members (we all paddle kayaks) has a huge professional quality panel saw for cabinet making and he ripped the WRC into the main longitudinal sticks for me; the surface finish right off the saw was perfection itself. Did not even have to put a plane on them.
I was a bit concerned at the prospect of doing scarf joints in the key timbers so paid out a large number of dollars for a straight, clear 100 x 50 rough sawn WRC 5.7m long but it made the job easier. Mind you the 8' x 4' sheet of 12mm genuine marine ply cost more than the WRC but there is enough ply left over for the frames of 2 more Yosts.
Have enough BoteCote epoxy for 2 or 3 more Yosts.

For anyone contemplating building a SoF, I suggest you make the cockpit coaming FIRST. I found it the most difficult part of the job

a.) what timber ?
b.) where to get the timber ?;
c.) how to get it steamed and bent ?;
d.) and so on.


But why make it first ? - my completed coaming (eventually) was a little different in dimension to my pattern [it was a tad wider and a tad shorter fore-aft]. I had done a bit of fine tuning (read calculation and geometry) of the frame spacing between the "masik" frame and the cockpit aft frame to allow for the possibility of having to raise the “masik” frame a bit to accommodate long legs and hips replacements so I brought these 2 frames together by something like 10mm. Luckily my coaming just landed on the 2 frames - otherwise it would have "fallen thru" into the kayak's interior.


The strongback was made from a free laminated roof beam hauled out of a house with white ant damage (white ants long gone). Home made the trestles to suit the builder's height avoiding back problems courtesy of standard i.e. low Bun...gs saw horses.
The only significant tools I purchased for the build was a fettled (re-built better than original) 60 1/2 low angle block plane www.jimdavey (http://www.jimdavey)-planes-sharpening.com/‎ which was a 'joy to use', a 1m straight steel rule and, part way thru the build, picked up a 'cheapie' table saw which was helpful in making the coaming strips and floorboards. Other tools were the sort most everybody has on hand; a chisel small electric drill, etc.
The first cut is the hardest, get started; it's easier than you think.

Cheers from Martin Bunny,
Mandurah, Western Australia
0428 321 332
[email protected]

labr@
27th July 2013, 06:42 PM
making the decision on which design, worrying about and finding the timber(s) took far more time than the actual build job :B

I can relate to that 100% ! :U

I passed on your contact details to Aaron. He goes by the user name Gorn on the Kudzu section of Messing-about forums. His build thread is at Shad progress - Kudzu Craft Forum - messing-about Forums (http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/8425-shad-progress/) if you want to take a look - you don't have to join to read the threads.

Sounds like using the goop is similar to wetting out glass cloth with epoxy - it doesn't pay to walk away from that too soon either.

I support the advice to build the coaming first for a SoF - although in my case I did it because of space limitations. It was always going to be easier laminating a coaming without an unfinished hull taking up a lot of my workspace.

A good read Martin, thanks.