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View Full Version : Large glass door construction opinions and advice



rammbo
31st July 2013, 07:12 PM
Hi there Im in the process of building a custom barn house and need some advice and opinions on wether my design of glass barn doors will b a success.

overall dimensions r h2400xw1300 styles and centre rail 90x45 ash head rail and bottom rail 140x45ash

glass size 6mm toughened h990x1140 two planes per door

will b hinged by 3 300x50 ball bearing strap gate hinges

all joints will b glued and screwed halving joints as well as 50mm flat steel L brackets and Ts on all(cosmetic as well as structual)

glass will b siliconed in

also making a casement type window h1060x w1400 out of only 90x45 ash same construction

normally i trust my bush engineering but ive had little experience in glass door construction so im a bit iffy on this one

cheers DEAN

rustynail
1st August 2013, 05:30 AM
IMHO those timber sizes are a bit skimpy for a door that size. A standard four panel door has a 125mm style. A mortise and tenon joint gives twice the bonding area.

Scally
1st August 2013, 11:11 AM
I think that I would go wider on the rails.

They will be heavy doors and you will need strong joints. Mortice and Tenon would be stronger than the halved joints but a lot more work.

Your flat steel brackets should make it strong enough but I would go wider than 50mm.

The pic attached was taking in a new country pub. All the ceiling and doors had big steel plates over or through the joints. I doubt you need to go as big as they have but the longer and wider the plates the stronger your door will be.

I'd love to see some pics of the barn if you have any?
Did you build it too?

rammbo
1st August 2013, 12:50 PM
IMHO those timber sizes are a bit skimpy for a door that size. A standard four panel door has a 125mm style. A mortise and tenon joint gives twice the bonding area.


your response sorta confirmed my suspisions i actually was tryn to scimp it a bit lol to get more glass area .

i was going with the halve joints because of the speed and simplicity (hav 4 doors that size tomake +6 windows)

was hoping the steel plates would strengthen the joints to surpass any woodworking joint anyway .

anyhow thanks for your imput Rusty im gonna hav a rethink on this one .

rammbo
1st August 2013, 01:10 PM
I think that I would go wider on the rails.

They will be heavy doors and you will need strong joints. Mortice and Tenon would be stronger than the halved joints but a lot more work.

Your flat steel brackets should make it strong enough but I would go wider than 50mm.

The pic attached was taking in a new country pub. All the ceiling and doors had big steel plates over or through the joints. I doubt you need to go as big as they have but the longer and wider the plates the stronger your door will be.

I'd love to see some pics of the barn if you have any?
Did you build it too?

Thanks Scally im definately gonna maximise steel plates both sides of the joints

ill get some pics up soon and yes ive built every thing.

back soon with a new design

cheers

rammbo
1st August 2013, 02:03 PM
Ok im going with 90x70 styles 140x70 head and centre rail and 190x70 bottom rails all with 3mm double sided steel plates over all joins.


do people think 6mm toughned glass is adequate thickness as 8mm is way more expensive .

Handyjack
1st August 2013, 08:37 PM
do people think 6mm toughned glass is adequate thickness as 8mm is way more expensive .

The glass will assist with holding the frame square. 6mm will probably do the job. Check with a glazier with regards to appropriate standards. Also keep in mind the weight of the door and the strength of the frame and the number of hinges the door will require.
Will the door require more than one person to hang it?

ninpoman
1st August 2013, 09:34 PM
the glass is NOT to be used to square the door in any way at all

The glass will have to be placed in to a rebate

Glazing putty first then insert glass press glass into putty scrap away excess the use diamond points to secure the glass then putty on the outside scraped away at a 45 degree angle

or

use a timber decorative bead to secure the glass

and yes use the silicone as a sealant to stop water getting into behind the glass and sitting there