Edge Jointing Without Anything Fancy

[JPA]

Hi guys,

I'm wanting to edge joint two pieces of 10mm thick tassie blackwood, but I don't have any domino or biscuit machines. Since they're not huge (400mm long and maybe 180mm wide each) I thought I could get away with just gluing the edges. To remove the headache of cupping and moving when clamping I had a bright idea to both glue the edges together and the (bottom) faces onto 4mm masonite hardboard.

This is ok since the bottom and sides will be covered ie. you won't see the masonite. I thought this would mean I could guarantee that the blackwood was flat. Does anyone see any problems with this? I was wondering also if this would make the blackwood cup over time since the top is exposed to air and the bottom is glued to the masonite?

Hope that makes sense :) The blackwood is of course fully dry.

JPA

[Hermit]

I regularly edge-join timber without anything fancy. Never had a problem as long as the edges are prepared properly. Not too sure about the masonite.

To prep the edges, I clamp both pieces side-by-side in the vice and plane the edges together. They still need to be straight, but don't need to be perfectly square to get a flat join.
Once the edges are prepped, I lay the pieces of timber flat, edges together and tape them together with strips of masking tape, stretched tight.
Then I open the join, smear on the glue, then close it up and tape the second side, before putting it on a flat surface, (bandsaw table). I press down along the length of the joint first, to ensure the edges are even, then add weights to keep it flat.
When dry, the board is close to perfect and only needs a couple of passes through the drum sander to finish.

[groeneaj]

A glued long grain to long grain joint is very strong. I only use dominos for alignment, not for strength when joining long grain.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

:wts:

While domino's, dowels, etc. make it easy for accurate positioning during a glue-up, they don't really add much to the overall strength of the joint.

I'd forget about the masonite underlay though... as that will eventually give you other problems with movement issues.

[AlexS]

I'd do it the way Hermit has suggested, but sit it on stickers so that air can circulate around it. I've found that if you leave it on a flat surface, it can cup.

[Hermit]

I'd do it the way Hermit has suggested, but sit it on stickers so that air can circulate around it. I've found that if you leave it on a flat surface, it can cup.

Never thought about that, Alex. Good thinking. :2tsup: (I haven't had any cupping so far, though. Lucky I guess.)

Actually, you deserve all credit for my first reply as well. I picked up the basic method from you.
I just built my first box with mitred corners/panelled top and bottom, following the instructions in your pdf. Came out fairly good. Thanks for that too.

[spokeshave]

I've made panels with the processes outlined above without the use of splines, dominoes et al...

When all my pieces are ready to go i apply the glue to one edge (making sure they are square and straight), join them on top of some flat stickers i have layed on my bench (with baking paper on top to stop them sticking) then 'rub' them backwards and forwards so that the glue squeezes out of the joint. Then I'll lay more stickers ontop of the panel and clamp it all up.

I haven't had a problem yet with a joint failing.

This is a panel i made using this process, nothing fancy just a rub joint.

http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af244/nitro50th/Khaya%20sideboard/DSCN0599-1.jpg (http://s1012.photobucket.com/user/nitro50th/media/Khaya%20sideboard/DSCN0599-1.jpg.html)

Steven.

[JPA]

Thanks everyone! Almost wasn't going to ask the question but I'm glad I did. Lots of helpful information there thanks. Hopefully it'll turn out well :)