bushing or not bushing

[hillpanther]

hi everybody I m making woodworking jig and I always embedded Drymet bushing in moving parts.i used also hard chrome linear shaft.
here I m attaching 2 pictures for better understanding.do I need to embedded bush or just simply linear shaft is more than enough in aluminium which is 6063 grade.the maximum weight of total moving mechanism is including motor is 6kg.bush size is 6mm ID and 8mm OD and length is 12mm. your suggestion would be very important for me.
http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/hillpanther/IMG_3242.jpg (http://s934.photobucket.com/user/hillpanther/media/IMG_3242.jpg.html)

http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/hillpanther/IMG_3233.jpg (http://s934.photobucket.com/user/hillpanther/media/IMG_3233.jpg.html)

sorry in the picture there is no router motor

[Oldneweng]

hi everybody I m making woodworking jig and I always embedded Drymet bushing in moving parts.i used also hard chrome linear shaft.
here I m attaching 2 pictures for better understanding.do I need to embedded bush or just simply linear shaft is more than enough in aluminium which is 6063 grade.the maximum weight of total moving mechanism is including motor is 6kg.bush size is 6mm ID and 8mm OD and length is 12mm. your suggestion would be very important for me.

Snip

sorry in the picture there is no router motor

I am no expert with aluminium but I would say with an 8mm shaft supporting 6kg a bush would be the way to go.

Dean

[hillpanther]

I am no expert with aluminium but I would say with an 8mm shaft supporting 6kg a bush would be the way to go.

Dean
thanx for reply.i forget that 4 bush in 4 12mm thickness aluminum strip hold total 6kg weigh so each bush is almost 1250 gram weight.

[BaronJ]

hi everybody I m making woodworking jig and I always embedded Drymet bushing in moving parts.i used also hard chrome linear shaft.
here I m attaching 2 pictures for better understanding.do I need to embedded bush or just simply linear shaft is more than enough in aluminium which is 6063 grade.the maximum weight of total moving mechanism is including motor is 6kg.bush size is 6mm ID and 8mm OD and length is 12mm. your suggestion would be very important for me.
http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/hillpanther/IMG_3242.jpg (http://s934.photobucket.com/user/hillpanther/media/IMG_3242.jpg.html)

http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/hillpanther/IMG_3233.jpg (http://s934.photobucket.com/user/hillpanther/media/IMG_3233.jpg.html)

sorry in the picture there is no router motor

Hi hillpanther,

If the mechanism is intended to be continuously movable then it might pay to use some needle bearings in there other than that your pictures look very
interesting ! I would like to learn more about what you are trying to do.

Regards:
BaronJ.

[BaronJ]

Hi Again,
I think I've spotted a potential problem. When you clamp the router/motor those arms are going to flex. That could cause some binding and stiffness of the pivot points. It may be be better to use a pressure plate and grub screws to secure the motor.

Regards:
BaronJ.

[Steamwhisperer]

Hi Again,
I think I've spotted a potential problem. When you clamp the router/motor those arms are going to flex. That could cause some binding and stiffness of the pivot points. It may be be better to use a pressure plate and grub screws to secure the motor.

Regards:
BaronJ.

Hi Baronj,
hillpanther has a couple of braces on either side of the clamps so hopefully that shouldn't be too much of a problem...hopefully :D
I'd go with the bushing as well

Phil

[Michael G]

I would be bushing simply because over time I think that the holes in the Al would elongate and so the mechanism would get sloppy.
That device looks like a reduction pantograph - is it? It looks very nicely done regardless.

Michael

[nearnexus]

I would be bushing simply because over time I think that the holes in the Al would elongate and so the mechanism would get sloppy.
That device looks like a reduction pantograph - is it? It looks very nicely done regardless.

Michael

+1 on both points.

Rob

[hillpanther]

thank you very much for all your suggestion.
yes I m using 10mm hex with 6mm female thread spacer to keep them together so stiffness is no problem.
yes it's reduction pantograph.the bushing I m suing called drymet.i choose it for it's thin wall.there is no any fast movement so I didn't chose needle bearing.
OILES Drymet LF (http://www.oiles.co.jp/en/1/prod/product/f_drymet_lf.htm)


here is the video of my earlier model so you can see how much it has maximum movement.
Quadro mortise and tenon joint - YouTube (http://youtu.be/Bv7k9nQvaY8?t=3m40s)

[Brobdingnagian]

Ahh, I see, very nice. I was wondering what the springs were for.

I would definitely stick with the bushings even if only for the torque while cutting the as aluminium would just become sloppy over time.

-Josh

[hillpanther]

thank you very much so now I have decided to stick with bushing as you all suggest.

[RayG]

Nice looking machine, very well made and looks like it does an excellent job :2tsup: especially, thanks for the video.

Regards
Ray

[hillpanther]

Nice looking machine, very well made and looks like it does an excellent job :2tsup: especially, thanks for the video.

Regards
Ray
thanx for your words :) glad you like it.i m trying to make it more better with all your suggestions.

[nadroj]

Aluminium on polished steel is a good bearing combination, but a bush is a quality point, that someone might appreciate when it comes to service it, many years later perhaps. It means a quick repair rather than a slow one.
Also, a sintered bush that is impregnated with lubricant will be cleaner, and not need to be oiled routinely.

Jordan

[Ueee]

Its a very sleek unit, i like it. With the right templates there would be no end to what you could do. The only thing i might suggest is to use a spiral flute cutter though, in harder timbers the straight one will struggle unless you take it real slow.
Love to see a vid of MK2 when it is done.

Ew

[hillpanther]

Aluminium on polished steel is a good bearing combination, but a bush is a quality point, that someone might appreciate when it comes to service it, many years later perhaps. It means a quick repair rather than a slow one.
Also, a sintered bush that is impregnated with lubricant will be cleaner, and not need to be oiled routinely.

Jordan

I admit it.i was thinking to make less machining time.since I have to embedded busing always need to do drilling with endmill to make sure smooth insert of bush. but as you mention about quality sure it would up by bushing so I will stick with it.
thanx for suggestion


Its a very sleek unit, i like it. With the right templates there would be no end to what you could do. The only thing i might suggest is to use a spiral flute cutter though, in harder timbers the straight one will struggle unless you take it real slow.
Love to see a vid of MK2 when it is done.

Ew
absolutely right.spiral upcut flute will give much smooth ,fast and clean cut.i do have 1/2 inch upcut spiral carbide bit but I don't have 3/8 inch.i must need to import it from USA.so next time I will try with spiral.now my this design is final and have to come with dust extraction system idea.
thanx for comment.

[forp]

Video required!!! :thumbup:

[hillpanther]

Video required!!! :thumbup:
please click here for video Kuldeep Singh - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/hillpanther)
you can find all the video.thanx

[BaronJ]

Hi hillpanther,
I took a look at your video. I'm impressed. Very nice work !

Regards:
BaronJ.

[hillpanther]

Hi hillpanther,
I took a look at your video. I'm impressed. Very nice work !

Regards:
BaronJ.
Thanx BaronJ,
glad you like it.thanx for watching.

[GSRocket]

Very impressed with the machine, considerable thought has gone into it.
Just wondering where I could pick up a router motor like the one you have in it?

[hillpanther]

Very impressed with the machine, considerable thought has gone into it.
Just wondering where I could pick up a router motor like the one you have in it?
I have import it from USA .since you are from Australia and have 240 voltage supply so better to buy it from UK from toolstop (http://www.toolstop.co.uk/draper-45368-mr1350k-expert-1350w-230v-combination-router-kit-p47981)
or if you don't mind less power and small collet size than buy Makita RT0700C from local dealer.

[hillpanther]

Hi again, thanx for your precious suggestion.i just came to know that the linear shaft I m using is Hard grind but not chrome which means in the future chance to get rust.how about if I use precision brass shaft.i have just bought some brass shaft to compare.the quality is very good and nicely polished.i m attaching the picture for better understanding with hard grind linear shaft and brass one.

http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/hillpanther/IMG_3260.jpg (http://s934.photobucket.com/user/hillpanther/media/IMG_3260.jpg.html)

[nadroj]

Brass/aluminium or brass/brass are not good bearing combinations, I think.
Can you use a plastic tube, heatshrink tubing etc to cover the exposed part of the steel shaft?

Jordan

[hillpanther]

Brass/aluminium or brass/brass are not good bearing combinations, I think.
Can you use a plastic tube, heatshrink tubing etc to cover the exposed part of the steel shaft?

Jordan
I never thought about it.. very good idea.but my bush is not made from aluminium.
here is my bushing (http://www.oiles.co.jp/en/1/prod/product/f_drymet_lf.htm)
let me know your thought about it.if it success or not.if not then I will use your suggested method

[nadroj]

I would ask the supplier of the sintered bushing about the suitability of use with your proposed shaft materials.

Jordan

[hillpanther]

I would ask the supplier of the sintered bushing about the suitability of use with your proposed shaft materials.

Jordan
thank you very much.much appreciate

[Steamwhisperer]

Correct me if I am wrong but you might get electrolytic corrosion with aluminium and brass.
Love Jordans idea of the heat shrink but worry about any condensation that might form on the shaft during heat shrinking and getting trapped underneath.
Depends on the shaft temperature at the time I suppose.
I'd still go with Jordans idea though, brass might be a bit soft as well.

Phil

[BaronJ]

Hi hillpanther,
Since you are using self lubricating bushings, I would stick with the steel shaft. If that machine were mine I would wipe it down with an oily rag after use, so rust would be a minor issue. Someone mentioned heat shrink to cover the exposed steel. I've used heat shrink many times on various jobs and not had any problems with trapped moisture. The heat when shrinking dry's any moisture away.

If you went down this path a quick wipe with an oily cloth before putting heat shrink on would solve that problem.

A nice but potentially expensive idea would be to just apply heat shrink tube to the ends that go into the bearings then dip the whole shaft into paint or the plastic stuff that is used for tool handles. The heat shrink would protect the bearing surfaces from the coating used, and would be removed before assembly.

Regards:
BaronJ.

[hillpanther]

hi Baronj!!
I guess I will go with steel shaft and as suggested will apply oil after every use.since there is no any fast movement so dust shouldn't be a problem.
thanx for suggestion.