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Bushmiller
4th September 2013, 09:17 PM
I have a few cant hooks, but none of them were up here in QLD. I had to move a pile of old power poles and I thought I would probably do my top trying to roll them with a crowbar. I thought you might like to see my little effort. Of course as usual, there is no obligation to read so feel free to exit right now.

If you're still reading I guess there is nothing much on TV or you are really, really bored with the election campaign and even this thread is an improvement over the Tony and Kev show.

Here goes. I did in fact have a couple of parts from old cant hooks so I suppose I cheated a little. I had a "protection plate" from the original cant hook that I have taken the design from for all subsequent hooks. As you can see, the four holding bolts were a little the worse for wear. Actually they wore better than the timber, because there was a handle in there once :wink: .

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I cut off the bolts and salvaged the plates. The hook came from something that was intended to be used with a crow bar. I have tried using it as intended but it drove me to distraction as it slips around all over the place.

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So I cut the ring off. Unfortunately the hole was 25mm and I used an old 22mm bolt, which is much larger than required. As you can see later, 12mm is ample. A couple of thick bushes are required either side of the hook so the bolt head is clear of the plate. Trouble is that big bolts need thick bushes. I had a small piece of thick steam pipe, but it took it's toll as it is not mild steel. I can't remember if I tripped the circuit breaker seven or eight times during the cutting.

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When fitted, it looks like this:

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In fact this shows both bolts. Normally if starting from scratch just the smaller bolt is sufficient and it is placed in which ever hole is suitable for the size log. I was not going to cut 22mm holes! The additional holes were 13mm.
The hook did not have the best curvature. It is important that the point can bite into the timber. This is the way I did that:

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Yes I know they are not quite in line, but the logs don't know that :rolleyes:.

I bent the hook out a little to grind the weld profile and then pulled it back in with a clamp. I used a 2.5mm rod for the root run and then a 3.2mm to fill the "vee." I ground it back flat because it has to pass through the slot in the plate.

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The timber handle was a piece of spotted gum that I milled recently and had quite a bit of sapwood in it. Spotty is good in that way as the sap makes good strong handles. This particular piece was a bit thinner than I would have liked. 50mm thick would have been good but this was about 40mm. Finished it was less than 35mm. I made it a little wider to compensate and extended that width further up the handle, but I'm fooling myself thinking it will be as strong.

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Now that brings me to a little issue I had. I decided that I would like to have some kind of point on the bottom of the handle. The advantage of this is that it can be used as a crowbar too. If I had not gone down this track the cant hook would have been simple and finished right here and you could have returned to the TV thinking "glad that wasn't any longer."

But there is more to come. I will be back after tea :) .

Regards
Paul

Bushmiller
4th September 2013, 09:19 PM
Ooops! The pix aren't displayed properly. Can a moderator tell me what I've done wrong please or help?

Regards
Paul

Bushmiller
4th September 2013, 09:57 PM
This is what we are looking at eventually.

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Hopefully the pix issue can be sorted.

Regards
Paul

DJ’s Timber
4th September 2013, 10:08 PM
Unfortunately you'll need to re upload all the images and insert them again Paul.

chambezio
4th September 2013, 11:43 PM
Thanks for the story and pic Paul. I think I will make one as well.
With the pics, I found that when you select from your files the hit the upload button it takes a while to get them into your post. I found that out when I was doing the couple of stories over the last couple of days. When I previewed my thread I realised it hadn't grabbed the pics, so I uploaded them again and waited till the were in place(Took a few minutes for the 3 or 4 pics I used
Is the point on the handle preferable over a small foot/toe? I have never used one so I really don't know.

Thankfully the Tony and Kev Circus Show will be all over in a couple of days. What will we do for boring entertainment then?

Bushmiller
5th September 2013, 12:49 AM
I've kind of sorted the pix in the original post. Just ignore the bit that says "attachment." I can't work out how to delete that.

On with the plot:

The pointy bit on the end of the stick! I used a bit of offcut 4 x 2 RHS together with a piece of steel I found in the skip at work. It is a high carbon steel of some description. It may be a wear plate. The time consuming bit was to make a transition piece to the wedge from the RHS.

This was the process:

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The blade needs to be clamped and inserted:

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The RHS is welded up first. This clamps the blade and puts significant heat into the steel to remove moisture in preparation for the low hydrogen rods, which themselves have been heated in the oven (yes, SWMBO's oven and yes I did get the third degree). This process makes the rods easier to use and importantly removes moisture from the steel.

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Arguably this joint will not be under huge stress, but it does save the weld breaking down the track. The next step was to do a bit of tidying up:

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Life was about to get difficult because the internal size of the RHS was larger than the timber. I cut and glued four sides onto the handle and then fitted the tip with two bolts.

Trouble was I had not allowed for the extra length the tip would provide and it got in the way of rolling. So I removed it, cut off about 100mm of the handle, glued four more packing pieces and re-attached the tip. So now it looks like this:

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As you can see, it was finished in the dark so I haven't tried it out yet, but I think it will be good.

If I was starting from scratch again I would use 75 x 50 RHS and timber to suit. That would save a huge amount of work. The hook itself may need a little more curvature. I would achieve that the same way as I did the first cut, but a little closer towards the bolt holes.

For the rolling of logs the point is not needed at all, but if you want to lever a log, something to bite into the ground is essential.

Regards
Paul

Bushmiller
5th September 2013, 12:53 AM
Is the point on the handle preferable over a small foot/toe? I have never used one so I really don't know.



Rod

I think the point or blade in this case is the way to go.

Regards
Paul

artme
5th September 2013, 08:01 AM
Good one Paul!!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Not one either on my to do or to use list. I have developed an inexplicable aversion to such work.:D:D

Bushmiller
5th September 2013, 08:35 AM
Good one Paul!!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Not one either on my to do or to use list. I have developed an inexplicable aversion to such work.:D:D

Arthur

That's quite OK. A cant hook is not for everybody :wink::) .

Regards
Paul

BobL
5th September 2013, 11:06 AM
Rod

I think the point or blade in this case is the way to go.

Regards
Paul

A flat probably work better. I have oval ends on mine with the wider part of the oval aligned with your flat.

To stop the end of mine sliding around I added teeth.
I like the way you can adjust the length of the hook on yours.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=57915&stc=1&d=1192324367

dai sensei
5th September 2013, 01:29 PM
Hope yours wrks well. I ended up just buying one of Weisy's big steel beasts :2tsup:. Single point contact and multiple position hook (a number of bolt holes) on a dirty big steel pole. Weighs a ton, but works really well.

I'd take a photo, but left it at the farm.

Bushmiller
5th September 2013, 02:05 PM
A flat probably work better. I have oval ends on mine with the wider part of the oval aligned with your flat.

To stop the end of mine sliding around I added teeth.
I like the way you can adjust the length of the hook on yours.


Bob

I like the teeth on yours :) .

Regards
Paul

Bushmiller
5th September 2013, 08:44 PM
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=57915&stc=1&d=1192324367

Bob's cant hook demonstrates the point (sorry) I was making about the hook's ability to grip or bite into a log. There is nothing worse than heaving hard on a log and have the cant hook slip. At best you feel foolish and at worst you hurt yourself. Somewhere in between finds you flat on your back!

With the combination of hook point and teeth it is hard to imagine it slipping ever.

I said at the start all my cant hooks were elsewhere. Not strictly true as I had two hooks are used with a crowbar. The first I used for the rebuild and today I found this one which is smaller but demonstrates a better point angle.

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Regards
Paul

Bushmiller
6th September 2013, 10:21 AM
BobL has shamed me as the tools and devices he makes are always painted ups so prettily. I rather like blue (didn't have any red). Actually blue is what I got and all tools are blue until the tin is used up!

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The Spotted Gum has had a couple of coats of Organoil Garden Furniture Oil on it and rubbed in with a scourer.
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Just some dimensions for those of you who are interested (and for those of you who aren't if you were too slow clicking off):



Overall Height
2100mm


Max timber width
82mm


Min Timber width
58mm


Weight
14Kg



The length is more than required, but it is difficult to make a short cant hook longer so I prefer to err in the long direction. Besides which some of you might be really tall. Much of the weight comes from the metal parts. The RHS had a wall thickness of 4mm (2.5mm would be ample).

The hook is 1/2", but I wouldn't go much less than that. The protector plate is about 2mm thick.

If I was starting from scratch I would use 75mm x 50mm x 2.5mm RHS and make the timber shaft to suit that, which would end up being about 70mm x 45mm at the widest and 45mm square for the upper part of the handle.

Regards
Paul

PS Thanks to DJ for pointing me in the right direction for the table of dimensions :) .

BobL
6th September 2013, 12:07 PM
BobL has shamed me as the tools and devices he makes are always painted ups so prettily. I rather like blue (didn't have any red). Actually blue is what I got and all tools are blue until the tin is used up!

You should see them now - chipped and battered - I guess that's a sign that they have been used.

MAPLEMAN
6th September 2013, 12:25 PM
I use a Finish cant hook (made by Fiskars-Finland),and it is as strong as the best of them,and isn't ridiculously heavy,coming in at around 1.5kg..and the handle isn't too long either.Very strong and workable cant hook, this one..MM :2tsup:

Bushmiller
6th September 2013, 12:32 PM
I use a Finish cant hook (made by Fiskars-Finland),and it is as strong as the best of them,and isn't ridiculously heavy,coming in at around 1.5kg..and the handle isn't too long either.Very strong and workable cant hook, this one..MM :2tsup:

MM

That looks like a very useable hook. I like the weight. Is it made from aluminium?

Regards
Paul

MAPLEMAN
6th September 2013, 12:55 PM
MM

That looks like a very useable hook. I like the weight. Is it made from aluminium?

Regards
PaulNot aluminium Paul,i guess hardened steel:?...but the weight is the winner at 1.5 kg.Have seen many a homemade cant hook,some have been so heavy and large (must be a 'blokey' thing :rolleyes:) that after few minutes of use,ones arms feel like dropping off :C...they really should be light in weight,and small enough to carry around if need be..and of course,STRONG!!..B.T.W Paul,nice job on yours:2tsup:..MM

dai sensei
6th September 2013, 02:28 PM
Found some photos of another cant hook Weisy made that is the same as mine. Yes mine is big and heavy (~20kgs), probably not required for the work I do, but I know it will not fail. I had no issues rolling the huge Crows Ash on my own over rocks and other timber, but couldn't prop it after rolling :-, so went for car with wrapped tow strap and chains.

MAPLEMAN
6th September 2013, 03:26 PM
Yes mine is big and heavy (~20kgs), probably not required for the work I do, but I know it will not fail..Nicely made cant hook Neil,but way toooo heavy...i have given my cant hook on occasions a real work out,and i do have arms of steel :D,but i can't break it :no:...it can roll a ton plus if need be,more than adequate,and i know its not going to fail..MM:2tsup: