Principles of Dust Extraction / Management for a new shed

[mick59wests]

If below has been covered elsewhere, please let me know but all my searching found lots of information about particular things but did not really tell me overall what I should do so.......
To all you learned folks, I am about to move house and my workshop, which is currently under 2 carports is going to have a real shed. Due to space and being in the open, the only protection I have used is a dust mask. I recently updated this to a Paftec Cleanspace2 powered respirator. This has a pre-filter and a P3 rated main filter.
However, now that I will be far more enclosed (finally my own cave :)) I am checking that I understand the principles. So what I think I need is:
1. Dust extraction at the source. Basically a Dust Extractor. This category seems to range from fairly simple (a couple of hundred dollars) to cyclone type ones costing over 2 grand. I am also pretty sure I could get more expensive ones if I tried :):).
2. A shop vac to pickup as much as possible of what the extractor misses. If I just sweep, I expect this create more dust so a vac is much preferred (is that right)?
3. An air-filtration unit to get the nasty little bits of dust. I am still doing my investigation on this, but my new shed is 53m2 and fairly high so I need to work out what size I would need. In theory, without this anyone entering the shed for many hours after I did any work (and that includes me) should immediately put on a dust mask. What I don’t know is ‘what is good enough’. One from hairy forbes advertises: ‘Filtering 98% of all particles 5 microns in size and 85% of all particles 1 micron in size’. Is this good enough, otherwise it looks like we start moving into serious money.
Do I at least have the principle right? I could spend a reasonable amount but it will either mean less or cheaper wine for the foreseeable future.

My main machinery will be: a lathe (probably 50% of my time on this but lots of this is sanding), bandsaw, tablesaw, small thicknesser (only rarely used) and a router.

thanks

Mick

Thanks is advance

[Timless Timber]

Welcome to my nightmare Mick
At 42M^2 I am planning mine out now... and will be watching the answers you get with much interest.

Corrimal Community Men's Shed Cyclone Dust Collection System - Automatic Blast Valves (http://mastslav.weebly.com/)

I bookmarked that link coz it gives me inspiration when I start to feel its all too hard (expensive) and I should just quit.

Hopefully it might inspire you also.

Cheers & good luck with it.

[BobL]

Mostly correct but here are a few more details.


.1. Dust extraction at the source. Basically a Dust Extractor. This category seems to range from fairly simple (a couple of hundred dollars) to cyclone type ones costing over 2 grand. I am also pretty sure I could get more expensive ones if I tried :):).

Dust extraction should target 1000 cfm at source. Thats REAL CFM and not "dust extractor (DE) manufacturers cfm". Other than Clearvue, anything a manufacturer claims regarding CFM can be divided by half to get a more reliable result. One critical factor with most DE is that they (eventually) leak so they need to be either located outside, or in an enclosed chamber that vents outside the shed. To get 1000 CFM at source requires; at least a 3HP DC, 6" ducting, and machine ports capable of accepting 1 x 6" duct or 3 x 4" ducts. This assumes a short run of ducting. For longer runs bigger impeller and more power is needed. Most machines have have severely restricted air flow and have to be opened up to get the 1000 cfm at source.


2. A shop vac to pickup as much as possible of what the extractor misses. If I just sweep, I expect this create more dust so a vac is much preferred (is that right)?
I think you mean from surfaces? otherwise shop vacs haven't got a hope in hell of picking up what the DE misses. They are low flow rate high pressure devices that should be restricted to use with power tools. All Shop vacs will (even expensive ones eventually) make more fine dust than they suck in, so once again they should be located outside or placed in a chamber that is vented by the externally vented DE.

In terms of cleaning up I just use the externally DE with a 4" flexy connected to 6" ducting used by machinery points around the shed. A high capacity DE with all vents open will adequately remove the fine dust generated by sweeping.


3. An air-filtration unit to get the nasty little bits of dust. I am still doing my investigation on this, but my new shed is 53m2 and fairly high so I need to work out what size I would need. In theory, without this anyone entering the shed for many hours after I did any work (and that includes me) should immediately put on a dust mask. What I don’t know is ‘what is good enough’. One from hairy forbes advertises: ‘Filtering 98% of all particles 5 microns in size and 85% of all particles 1 micron in size’. Is this good enough, otherwise it looks like we start moving into serious money.
If you get a high flow dust extractor that vents outside room air filtering is unnecessary UNLESS you plan on doing high quality finishes. External venting drags outside air into a shed which often contains a lot of dust which can spoil finishes.

[BobL]

Have you built the shed yet?

I have one underfloor duct in my shed and if I was to build my shed again I would install 6" under floor ducting with a port every ~2 m along most walls. It frees up ceiling and wall space and declutters the shed.

[mick59wests]

Bobl - first of all, thanks very much for the reply. I think I will have follow up questions until you get tired of answering :) so below are my first set.

Also, it is an already built shed which I will be moving into in early December (at bonny Hills on the mid NSW north coast) so am doing my research as early as I can



Mostly correct but here are a few more details.



Dust extraction should target 1000 cfm at source. Thats REAL CFM and not "dust extractor (DE) manufacturers cfm". Other than Clearvue, anything a manufacturer claims regarding CFM can be divided by half to get a more reliable result. One critical factor with most DE is that they (eventually) leak so they need to be either located outside, or in an enclosed chamber that vents outside the shed. To get 1000 CFM at source requires; at least a 3HP DC, 6" ducting, and machine ports capable of accepting 1 x 6" duct or 3 x 4" ducts. This assumes a short run of ducting. For longer runs bigger impeller and more power is needed. Most machines have have severely restricted air flow and have to be opened up to get the 1000 cfm at source..

If the DE is located outside and is far enough away from the house (and neighbours) then does it really matter how excellent the filters are (eg: 0.5 micron vs 5 micron) as any fine dust will just end up in the air? The back of my shed will be at least 20metres from the house and more than 50 metres from the closest neighbour. However, this would make it 10 metres from the furthest corner of the shed and I would have to run 'fairly long' (I have not designed the shed yet) hoses to at least some machinery unless I have the machinery on wheels and move them closer to the actual DE. I assume long hoses decrease the cfm? Also (at least in general) are DEs designed to be out in the weather?

Am I understanding this?





I think you mean from surfaces? otherwise shop vacs haven't got a hope in hell of picking up what the DE misses. They are low flow rate high pressure devices that should be restricted to use with power tools. All Shop vacs will (even expensive ones eventually) make more fine dust than they suck in, so once again they should be located outside or placed in a chamber that is vented by the externally vented DE.

In terms of cleaning up I just use the externally DE with a 4" flexy connected to 6" ducting used by machinery points around the shed. A high capacity DE with all vents open will adequately remove the fine dust generated by sweeping.


If you get a high flow dust extractor that vents outside room air filtering is unnecessary UNLESS you plan on doing high quality finishes. External venting drags outside air into a shed which often contains a lot of dust which can spoil finishes.

In regards to air filtering, if I have the DE outside (as per above) once again it will be a long way from the end of the shed - so would I use all of the vents and have at least one long hose (probably at eye level) and then leave it on for a while after working / sweeping?

I did not understand the bit about high quality finishes and how outside venting drags outside air into a shed (quite likely I don't really know how venting works). I would have thought that as long as the 'cuts in the sheds for the ducting' were sealed this could not happen.

If there are other links I can read, I would be happy to do further research (which I am doing as well) but am most appreciative of you applying your knowledge to my situation.

Your appreciative student :D

Mick

[BobL]

Also, it is an already built shed which I will be moving into in early December (at bonny Hills on the mid NSW north coast) so am doing my research as early as I can
Too bad but hopefully others will read this thread and learn from it.


If the DE is located outside and is far enough away from the house (and neighbours) then does it really matter how excellent the filters are (eg: 0.5 micron vs 5 micron) as any fine dust will just end up in the air? The back of my shed will be at least 20metres from the house and more than 50 metres from the closest neighbour.

As far as filters goes that is correct. You could even use 30 micron cloth bags. I did that for 4 years and while they leave a bit of mess but because my DE was in a small enclosure the visible dust exiting the 30 micron bag was mainly trapped inside the enclosure and mainly invisible stuff escaped from there.

As important as the distance to the house is the location of the DE or DE external vent (I'll call this the shed out take) from the doorway or vent that allows outside air into the shed (shed intake). Remember the shed air pressure is made negative by the DE so if the outtake is too close to the intake all you will end up doing is recycling fine dust into your shed. If possible the outtake should be 180º away from your main intakes.


However, this would make it 10 metres from the furthest corner of the shed and I would have to run 'fairly long' (I have not designed the shed yet) hoses to at least some machinery unless I have the machinery on wheels and move them closer to the actual DE. I assume long hoses decrease the cfm?

Yes, 4" ducting and long ribbed hoses will reduce CFM quite significantly but 6" PVC ducting will easily cope with 10m provided you use a 4HP/15" impeller or greater.
For a 3HP/13" I would avoid go more than about 6m.


Also (at least in general) are DEs designed to be out in the weather?
no they are not designed for full exposure and should be at least be covered by something that keeps the rain off them. A complete enclosure also suppresses noise - even though your neighbours are 50 m away it would make your environment more peaceful


In regards to air filtering, if I have the DE outside (as per above) once again it will be a long way from the end of the shed - so would I use all of the vents and have at least one long hose (probably at eye level) and then leave it on for a while after working / sweeping?
Correct. on a 53m2 shed needs. about 20 minutes of venting after the last dust making activity look here http://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/duct-size-176466/#post1697305


I did not understand the bit about high quality finishes and how outside venting drags outside air into a shed (quite likely I don't really know how venting works). I would have thought that as long as the 'cuts in the sheds for the ducting' were sealed this could not happen.

Depending on a bunch of factors, ordinary outside air (even in a pristine environment) contains somewhere between about 1 and 30 million particles of dust per cubic metre of 0.3 microns or greater. This dust includes; soil and rock dust, sea salt, combustion products (soots) from fires and motor vehicles etc, flaking paint, animal (including human)skin and exhaled products, dust from car tyre wear, dust from clothing and fabric.

When you vent air containing wood dust from your shed with a DE this creates a negative air pressure inside your shed. This continually drags external dusty external air into your shed which when you turn off your DE settles out and covers everything. So if you want a dust free environment in which to apply fine especially glossy type finishes you will want to remove as much dust as possible from the air. Since wood dust is a health hazard it pays to get rid of this first. Then turning off the DE and running a room air unit will capture the dust a low TOTAL dust count in the shed so you won't get dust settling out on a fine finish.

[mick59wests]

Too bad but hopefully others will read this thread and learn from it.



As far as filters goes that is correct. You could even use 30 micron cloth bags. I did that for 4 years and while they leave a bit of mess but because my DE was in a small enclosure the visible dust exiting the 30 micron bag was mainly trapped inside the enclosure and mainly invisible stuff escaped from there.

As important as the distance to the house is the location of the DE or DE external vent (I'll call this the shed out take) from the doorway or vent that allows outside air into the shed (shed intake). Remember the shed air pressure is made negative by the DE so if the outtake is too close to the intake all you will end up doing is recycling fine dust into your shed. If possible the outtake should be 180º away from your main intakes.

Lucky me. The front of the shed has double garage doors and there is a window on each side. It is at the back of the shed (based on your help in this thread) is where I will plan on my DE being located. There is even a 3m x 2m wood shed tacked onto the back of the shed but it did not look fully waterproof and has a low roof so I will have to check this when I am there but this definitely looks like the spot for the DE.

Your answer above means to me that I would not need to go to the expense of a cyclone DE but I would want a powerful one with at least one 6" 'inlet'. I'll investigate further but does this sound right to you?



Yes, 4" ducting and long ribbed hoses will reduce CFM quite significantly but 6" PVC ducting will easily cope with 10m provided you use a 4HP/15" impeller or greater.
For a 3HP/13" I would avoid go more than about 6m.


no they are not designed for full exposure and should be at least be covered by something that keeps the rain off them. A complete enclosure also suppresses noise - even though your neighbours are 50 m away it would make your environment more peaceful


Correct. on a 53m2 shed needs. about 20 minutes of venting after the last dust making activity look here http://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/duct-size-176466/#post1697305



Depending on a bunch of factors, ordinary outside air (even in a pristine environment) contains somewhere between about 1 and 30 million particles of dust per cubic metre of 0.3 microns or greater. This dust includes; soil and rock dust, sea salt, combustion products (soots) from fires and motor vehicles etc, flaking paint, animal (including human)skin and exhaled products, dust from car tyre wear, dust from clothing and fabric.

When you vent air containing wood dust from your shed with a DE this creates a negative air pressure inside your shed. This continually drags external dusty external air into your shed which when you turn off your DE settles out and covers everything. So if you want a dust free environment in which to apply fine especially glossy type finishes you will want to remove as much dust as possible from the air. Since wood dust is a health hazard it pays to get rid of this first. Then turning off the DE and running a room air unit will capture the dust a low TOTAL dust count in the shed so you won't get dust settling out on a fine finish.

The above is an excellent explanation of dust in the workshed and fine finishing. The attached venting thread was very informative but I also wonder if I will just open the garage doors and windows for a while. It seems to me there are a few too many factors in determining how good this would be :)


Thanks and most appreciative once again

Mick

[safari]

As we are talking about venting can I ask a question please Bob? I normally run my cyclone with the door open but if the weather is coming from the wrong direction this is no good. As there are no other openings I will need to make one on the other side of the shed. How big should the opening be to provide sufficient makeup air?

Thanks

[mick59wests]

it does not look like there are many DEs with a 6" inlet. Even the reasonably powerful ones only have 4" ones. However, I think all of my tools are 4" or less if I attach directly. Having said that, my lathe and tablesaw do not have any outlets so the bigger would be better. I will do some more research but I'd be interested what others have done, especially when they have their DE external to their shed.

cheers


Mick

[Timless Timber]

Don't be fooled by the photos about the 4 inch inlets.

W397 | DC-80 Dust Collector | machineryhouse.com.au (http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/W397)

http://images.machineryhouse.com.au/W397/0/700

I managed to pick up one of these for a song used (new old stock).

That coupling with 3 x 4 inch inlets is just a plastic coupling/adapter/transition, (call it what you will) which is removable and behind it, is a 8 inch diameter inlet suitable to run a cyclone if needs be.

I was fortunate enough that Bob spotted it and put me onto it as well as checking it out for me before I bought it. :2tsup:

You need to see them in person and measure such things as well as the impeller diameter & check the engine HP and RPMs etc.

From the pic - those 4 inch inlets would throttle that sucker... but without that transition - she will suck a golf ball thru a garden hose. :wink:

Hope this helps.

[BobL]

it does not look like there are many DEs with a 6" inlet. Even the reasonably powerful ones only have 4" ones. However, I think all of my tools are 4" or less if I attach directly. Having said that, my lathe and tablesaw do not have any outlets so the bigger would be better. I will do some more research but I'd be interested what others have done, especially when they have their DE external to their shed.

You are not looking hard enough - remove the black double, triple or quad 4" connectors on the front of the impeller inlet and have a look underneath.
The generic 2HP DE comes with a 4.5" (too small) or 6" impeller inlet.
3HP DE impellers have 6 or 8" inlet.
BTW those black plastic Y connectors on the front of DE's are not even 4" - they are 94 mm in diameter and severely throttle air flow on any DE.
It sounds like you really need to put some time into reading more posts on this forum.
Its all there - just set aside some time and have a look.


As we are talking about venting can I ask a question please Bob? I normally run my cyclone with the door open but if the weather is coming from the wrong direction this is no good. As there are no other openings I will need to make one on the other side of the shed. How big should the opening be to provide sufficient makeup air?

I recommend the opening be a big as possible because if it is too small it will restrict DE flow.
If you want to use a single opening then I recommend it be twice the cross sectional area of your trunk line.
If you want to use multiple small openings (this will sweep the shed clear of wood dust better than one single opening then you need to make the total cross sectional area correspondingly bigger PLUS add additional overhead.

**************** WARNING SUPER GEEK ALERT *********************
eg if your trunk line is 200 mm in diameter then if just one intake opening is used it should be equal in area to 2 openings each of 200 mm in diameter.
Making the holes 100 mm in diam will require 4 times more holes just to meet the initial area requirement, but smaller holes are more restrictive so an addition 30% (factor 1.3) should be included.
For 50 mm diam holes a factor 1.6 is needed, for 35 mm holes a factor of 1.9 etc.
So for 100 mm holes you will need 2 x 4 x 1.3 = 10.4 holes
For 50 mm holes you will 2 x 16 * 1.6 = 51.2 holes
for 25 mm holes you will need 2 x 64 * 1.9 = 243 holes
Can you see a patterned developing?
***************** END OF GEEK ALERT *****************************

Of course you can only deal with within your own shed/building structural limitations.
Normal "under eave gap" on top of the wall opposite the location of the DC will usually be more than sufficient although I would block these off on the 3 other walls or you will just suck the fine dust from the DE back into the shed.


Lucky me. The front of the shed has double garage doors and there is a window on each side. It is at the back of the shed (based on your help in this thread) is where I will plan on my DE being located. There is even a 3m x 2m wood shed tacked onto the back of the shed but it did not look fully waterproof and has a low roof so I will have to check this when I am there but this definitely looks like the spot for the DE.

Your answer above means to me that I would not need to go to the expense of a cyclone DE but I would want a powerful one with at least one 6" 'inlet'. I'll investigate further but does this sound right to you?

There a several other very good reasons to use a "quality" cyclone like a ClearVue. The biggest is "no filters or bags" are needed if it is vented outside. This takes a big load off the system and increases airflow permanently over DEs that use filters and bags which need to be kept clean on a regular basis. If you are going to be making a lot of chips and dust a cyclone saves a lot of work. I currently only empty my bags every 3-4 months but if you have to do it every week or every few days you will kick yourself for not getting one - assuming you can afford it of course.

Another big advantage is no chips or big things like tape measures and tools have to pass through the impeller.

Beware though, not all cyclones are the same and many being sold are old inefficient designs. Remember to halve any manufacturers claims of flow rates to get a real world value

[safari]

Thanks for the reply Bob. It is a great help for people like us who read stuff like the Penz data and still have to ask questions.

[John Samuel]

Mick,

For what its worth, I think your first post indicates you are heading in the right direction.
1. Dust extraction at the source. Basically a Dust Extractor. (Collection at the source IS your greatest imperative.)
2. A shop vac. (You will need one ... but be careful ... see below).
3. An air-filtration unit to get the nasty little bits of dust. (As BobL says, only if you are keen to spray high quality finishes ... even then, the need is doubtful.)

Collection at the source is the number one issue, and by far the best way to do that is with a Clear Vue (I own one, so I am biased). Even if you find a unit that has the same static pressure (etc) as a Clearvue, almost certainly you will be buying an inferior unit. BobL and I were discussing DE recently and agreed that a good analogy for DE systems is car engines. Imagine you have two engines that produce identical HP, but where one of them produces a lot more torque (analogous of the fan curve). The engine with more torque will cruise over hills more easily and do a better job of maintaining cruise speed, even up hills. Same with a DE. The Clear Vue has the most efficient cyclone around, which is why it needs no filters. In addition, it uses a modern and more effective impeller design (think high torque). This means that even though it's static pressure might be similar to other, cheaper units, in service it is better at overcoming loads/restrictions (long runs of pipe, fittings, machine hoods and etc).

In short, if you want to reliably pull a lot of air, a Clear Vue is the best solution available right now. I bought an 1800. Given my time again I would buy a Max and have one port permanently open to scrub the air of the "tramp dust" from hand tools etc.

As for the shop vac ... these are dirty creatures that produce more superfine dust that they capture. BobL educated me about the evils of shop vacs, but I was still surprised at just how much fine dust they produce. I like my powerful (2 HP) shop vac, but the only way we could become friends was to banish it outside under a hood, to run 50 mm PVC pipe into the shed and to remove the filters. Be careful. Some vacs don't have an overload cut-off if the motor gets hot (mine does) and some don't like you to remove the filters. I have a Hoover Garage Vac, which works well, and it is switched using an RF remote GPO (so is my Clear Vue, so I can turn them on/off from anywhere in my house, let alone my shop).

I find that I do not need an air filter to get good results with spraying.

We all have different shops, budgets and priorities. Nevertheless, right now the best small workshop DE solution around, and by a fair margin, is a Clear Vue. But even the Clear Vue is not quite enough by itself if you really want clean air. To do that you also need to solve the shop vac issue. Some people spend $1,200 on a U Beaut shop vac with a 1,200 W motor and very good filters. I chose to spend $200 on a 1,600 W Hoover Garage Vac (normally about $345 ... got mine on special) (liked the wall mounted feature of this vac ... off the floor and out of the way) and a handful of dollars on some PVC pipe to duct it into the shop. You will do whatever suits you and your shop.

Whatever you do, please remember the magic numbers ... 4,000 ... 1,000 ... 6.

4,000 fpm velocity ... 1,000 CFM airflow ... 6 inch pipes/hoods/shrouds (or equivalent ... my band saw has three 90 mm pipes servicing it, making the combined airflow about the same as a 6 inch pipe).

Cheerio!

[mick59wests]

John,

much appreciated and the Clear Vue is certainly the way I look like heading. I admit that I am not the world champion handyman so doing the installation right is still a bit daunting. In the short term I will just use my Paftec Cleanspace 2 powered respirator which has a silicon mask and P3 filter. I'll sweep and open up the double garage doors and windows when I can. I know it will take me many many months to do an installation.

thanks

Mick

[John Samuel]

John,

much appreciated and the Clear Vue is certainly the way I look like heading. I admit that I am not the world champion handyman so doing the installation right is still a bit daunting.
Mick
Installation is not that big a deal. The installation instructions from the US used to leave a lot to be desired, but there are a bunch of us who have installed them in the past year or so who can help.

Ductwork is not difficult. The only place where you will need to pull on your thinking cap is upgrading ports etc on machines. Again, a bunch of us have done this recently, so there is plenty of help if you need it.

Have fun!

John

[mick59wests]

John,

as I said to Bob - very much appreciated and in this case, I am expecting to need plenty of help. I will be moving into the premises early December, so I expect it will be next year before I get serious about setting it all up. This has been my 'understanding phase' and this forum has been very informative.

cheers

Mick

PS for BobL - thanks for all of the information. I have also spent alot of time looking at other threads and other articles (Bill Pentz for instance) so am in a much better position to make a good choice.

[shedman]

If John thinks he is biased because he has a ClearVue cyclone i must be mega biased as I liked them so much I became the Aussie distributor.

I bow to BobL's knowledge on all things technical. One day when I get the time I want to make a video of an Australian installation. However do not fear there is plenty of help out there if you need it.

When we talk about exhausting the cyclone outside if we are talking about a clearvue the volume of dust remaining is so small it is almost impossible to see. One issue you must allow for is that if you move large volumes of air you will create noise. In most cases you need to provide some type of soundproofing and muffling arrangement.

I am hoping that in the near future I will be able to supply a muffler as a standard accessory. They are not much used in the States since most woodworkers there want to save on heat loss so they use filters which have a natural muffling effect.

Keep asking questions. I think most forumites love answering questions and sometimes a new viewpoint on an issue causes us to rethink and come up with something useful.

[BobL]

When we talk about exhausting the cyclone outside if we are talking about a clearvue the volume of dust remaining is so small it is almost impossible to see.

The volume of dust that exhausts from a cyclone is indeed small, but more specifically it's the particle sizes (or volumes) that are exhausted that are so small that makes them impossible to be seen with the human eye. If that same small volume consisted of large particles it might be visible to some people. If a lot of fine dust is being generated (eg sanding) more invisible dust will also be exhausted and if the air outside in the exhausted area is still for an extended period some settling and clumping of the invisible dust may occur and render the dust visible.

It would be interesting to know the actual dust particle distribution of the exhausted air from a Cleavue.

[shedman]

The volume of dust that exhausts from a cyclone is indeed small, but more specifically it's the particle sizes (or volumes) that are exhausted that are so small that makes them impossible to be seen with the human eye. If that same small volume consisted of large particles it might be visible to some people. If a lot of fine dust is being generated (eg sanding) more invisible dust will also be exhausted and if the air outside in the exhausted area is still for an extended period some settling and clumping of the invisible dust may occur and render the dust visible.

It would be interesting to know the actual dust particle distribution of the exhausted air from a Cleavue.


Short of using a nuclear isotope I cannot think of a good way of doing that. Any Ideas BobL?

Steve

[BobL]

Short of using a nuclear isotope I cannot think of a good way of doing that. Any Ideas BobL?

Steve

Does anyone in WA have one that you know of that I could visit?
or
Maybe next time I head east I could take my measuring gear with me - nothing coming up in the near future though.

[John Samuel]

Does anyone in WA have one that you know of that I could visit?
or
Maybe next time I head east I could take my measuring gear with me - nothing coming up in the near future though.
Bob,

When you head east ... Brisbane is a great spot to visit ... and your room will be ready at my place.

[BobL]

Bob,

When you head east ... Brisbane is a great spot to visit ... and your room will be ready at my place.

Thanks - you never know when that might happen :)

[Breezy]

Does anyone in WA have one that you know of that I could visit?
or
Maybe next time I head east I could take my measuring gear with me - nothing coming up in the near future though.

Bob, Our mens shed is in the process of installing a Clearvue Max that you could measure. You did a dust test on our old 2hp dusty 12 months ago.



Regards, Arie.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

[BobL]

Bob, Our mens shed is in the process of installing a Clearvue Max that you could measure. You did a dust test on our old 2hp dusty 12 months ago.

Great - let me know when it is installed. From memory your mens shed has underfloor 4" ducting? If so you won't see that much of an improvement over the 2HP DC.
Cheers
Bob

[Breezy]

Great - let me know when it is installed. From memory your mens shed has underfloor 4" ducting? If so you won't see that much of an improvement over the 2HP DC.
Cheers
Bob

We are updating all ducting & machinery ports to 6". Also adding extra ducting for equipment that currently isn't ducted.


Regards, Arie.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

[BobL]

We are updating all ducting & machinery ports to 6". Also adding extra ducting for equipment that currently isn't ducted.
Sounds great!

[Breezy]

Great - let me know when it is installed. From memory your mens shed has underfloor 4" ducting? If so you won't see that much of an improvement over the 2HP DC.
Cheers
Bob


Bob,

We have the Clearvue up and running, still need to connect 6" ducting to machines, but you can now test dust levels in the system exhaust.

See this thread BMS Clearvue installation (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/bms-clearvue-installation-180129/)

Contact me by PM to arrange day.

Regards.