Another tenon saw complete.

[planemaker]

Hi all. I just finished off another backsaw build. The handle wood is Tasmanian Blackwood. Its not the easiest of timbers to shape but it does give a very nice end finish.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/tas%20blackwood%20backsaw/DSC_0040_zps62de95ea.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/tas%20blackwood%20backsaw/DSC_0040_zps62de95ea.jpg.html)

The tooth line length is 8 1/2 inches and its been sharpened 14tpi.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/tas%20blackwood%20backsaw/DSC_0041_zps25cfb2ac.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/tas%20blackwood%20backsaw/DSC_0041_zps25cfb2ac.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/tas%20blackwood%20backsaw/DSC_0042_zps46f129b5.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/tas%20blackwood%20backsaw/DSC_0042_zps46f129b5.jpg.html)

I recently purchased 2 different types of counterbores that suit the saw screws I use from TFWW. At this point I have only trialled the type on the left hand side of the photo but the results were extremely precise when compared to my previous method of using a 1/2" forstner bit.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0045_zps8b0440a1.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0045_zps8b0440a1.jpg.html)


Work on the next backsaw has already commenced. This one I am using Australian Jarrah as the handle wood.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/tas%20blackwood%20backsaw/DSC_0044_zpsefb973bd.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/tas%20blackwood%20backsaw/DSC_0044_zpsefb973bd.jpg.html)

Regards, Stewie.

[wolften]

...very schmick Stewie, very schmick...

I would buy that next one and put it in the display cabinet:)

[scrounger]

that's a really good looking saw :U

[JrTimberDesign]

Very nice im just starting woodwork as a hobby and finished my hsc major (a bunch of hand tools and workbench)
im slowly getting better and this makes me want to make another saw thanks for the inspiration :2tsup:

[hiroller]

Nice work. Where did you get the counterbores?

[planemaker]

...very schmick Stewie, very schmick...

I would buy that next one and put it in the display cabinet:)

Thanks wolften. There's about 5 days work for me in each of the backsaws I make. Most of that time goes into shaping the handle.

Stewie;

[planemaker]

Nice work. Where did you get the counterbores?

The smaller type on the left was from the u.k (tct cutters). The larger 1 is from the U.S. (hss). I decided to purchase some extra of the larger size with the intent of offering them for sale within the forum. They will be sold with the 3/16th drill bit + matching pilot rod. Not sure if the depth stop collar is needed. Will have a better idea after further testing.

Stewie;

[planemaker]

Very nice im just starting woodwork as a hobby and finished my hsc major (a bunch of hand tools and workbench)
im slowly getting better and this makes me want to make another saw thanks for the inspiration :2tsup:

Good to hear from you jr. I checked out your posting. Nice work.

Stewie;

[JrTimberDesign]

Good to hear from you jr. I checked out your posting. Nice work.

Stewie;

thanks :)

[planemaker]

Hi all . On this latest backsaw you would have noticed I left the saw bolts proud of the face of the handle. I think there are advantages in doing so. For example if you start off with them seated flush, by the time you tighten the saw screws up you can end up with a certain amount of creep as they compress into the handle timber. This amount will vary based on the type and hardness of the wood used for the handle. Once the saw bolts get below flush they can be a bit of an eye saw. But the look of the proud saw bolts needed some refinement to soften the transition in step change from the face of the bolt to the face of the handle. The answer was to add a chamfer to the outer rim of the saw nut. The following shows the jig I made up to add the chamfer to the saw bolts using a pedestal drill. The precision flat file was adhered to the jig block using CA. You can also view the chamfered saw nuts refitted to the backsaw. Kudos should go to Isaac & Ron for coming up with the solution to chamfer the saw bolts. Kudos should go to Isaac Blackburn Tools - woodworking tools old & new (http://blackburntools.com/) & Ron Bontz Saw Works (http://www.bontzsawworks.net/) for coming up with the solution to chamfer the saw bolts.


Regards, Stewie.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0046_zpsb5a496b1.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0046_zpsb5a496b1.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0047_zpsa19d718e.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0047_zpsa19d718e.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0048_zpsf8af91bc.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0048_zpsf8af91bc.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0050_zps25244086.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0050_zps25244086.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0051_zps9d2c1f06.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0051_zps9d2c1f06.jpg.html)

[DSEL74]

Nice lines to that saw. Very nick work.

Do you have links to where you bought the counter bores? Did you shop around much when looking for them?

In the photo the long one doesn't look to a very square step, and is the shank ½"

[planemaker]

Nice lines to that saw. Very nick work.

Do you have links to where you bought the counter bores? Did you shop around much when looking for them?

In the photo the long one doesn't look to a very square step, and is the shank ½"

Hi dsel. I don't have any links for you. But if you do a search on ebay for counterbore 3/16 you will find what your looking for. Look for the 3/16 x 1/2" counterbore. The smaller of the 2 has the straight through drill bit which is 3/16 dia. Its brand name is Trend.(U.K) They come in hss or tct. The larger one is 1/2 dia straight bore which comes only in hss. (U.S.)

Stewie;

[DSEL74]

Hi dsel. I don't have any links for you. But if you do a search on ebay for counterbore 3/16 you will find what your looking for. Look for the 3/16 x 1/2" counterbore. The smaller of the 2 has the straight through drill bit which is 3/16 dia. Its brand name is Trend.(U.K) They come in hss or tct. The larger one is 1/2 dia straight bore which comes only in hss. (U.S.)

Stewie;


This looks like the ones.
CB12-316TC - 3/16 drill diameter x 1/2 counterbore (http://www.trenddirectuk.com/cb12-316tc.html)
CB12-316HSS - 3/16 drill diameter x 1/2 counterbore (http://www.trenddirectuk.com/cb12-316hss.html)

Pity they don't have a 7/16.

[planemaker]

This looks like the ones.
CB12-316TC - 3/16 drill diameter x 1/2 counterbore (http://www.trenddirectuk.com/cb12-316tc.html)
CB12-316HSS - 3/16 drill diameter x 1/2 counterbore (http://www.trenddirectuk.com/cb12-316hss.html)

Pity they don't have a 7/16.

Yes that's the smaller type. Suggest you go through the ebay seller in the u.k I made inquires through this Company and was not happy to find out that the Australian supplier listed on there main site had sold off his franchise a while ago. I have found the link to his site. eBay My World - bigredtoolboxaustralia (http://myworld.ebay.com.au/bigredtoolboxaustralia/) Just type in counterbore and you will see all the different sizes he can supply. There is no extra cost charge for shipping to Aust. It took about 14 days to
receive through the post.

Stewie;

[DSEL74]

Yes that's the smaller type. Suggest you go through the ebay seller in the u.k I made inquires through this Company and was not happy to find out that the Australian supplier listed on there main site had sold off his franchise a while ago. I have found the link to his site. eBay My World - bigredtoolboxaustralia (http://myworld.ebay.com.au/bigredtoolboxaustralia/) Just type in counterbore and you will see all the different sizes he can supply. There is no extra cost charge for shipping to Aust. It took about 14 days to
receive through the post.

Stewie;


Thanks Stewie.

Were the USA bits a cheaper option?? I couldn't find that type on ebay.




The style your heading in with your saws reminds me a lot of Ron Bontz work. If you haven't already seen his saws I think you will like them.

[TobyC]

Planedude,

I like the beveled edges, beautiful saw!

[planemaker]

Thanks Stewie.

Were the USA bits a cheaper option?? I couldn't find that type on ebay.




The style your heading in with your saws reminds me a lot of Ron Bontz work. If you haven't already seen his saws I think you will like them.

The larger size from the USA was cheaper. This is the link to the seller. eBay My World - thelifeinsd (http://myworld.ebay.com.au/thelifeinsd?_trksid=p2047675.l2559)
Ron Bontz and I correspond with each other frequently via the USA woodnet forum. I also do similar with Isaac from Blackburn Tools, and Klaus & Pedder from Two Lawyers Toolworks (http://two-lawyers-toolworks.blogspot.com.au/)

Stewie;

[planemaker]

Today I was able to track down the quality issue with the saw bolt holes. While waiting for some 3/16 stainless rod to arrive in the post I was using the counterbore with the drill bit upside down as the pilot. Well the stainless rod arrived in the post today but before I changed out the upside down bit I tested it and sure enough the spiral cutting flutes clamped within the drill chuck was causing the counterbore to operate slightly out of concentric. After fitting the stainless rod as pilot the counterbore ran perfectly true. I tried this out on the new jarrah handle I have been working on and the fit around the saw bolt heads was much more tighter. Very pleased now.

Heres a photo of the jarrah handle after using the counterbore. I kept the saw bolts slightly proud and added the light chamfer as before. It not the best of photo's but you get a reasonable indication of the saw bolt fit.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/jarrah%20backsaw/DSC_0052_zpsa4214743.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/jarrah%20backsaw/DSC_0052_zpsa4214743.jpg.html)

[planemaker]

Hi all. Here are a couple of photo's of the seated saw screws on a scrap piece of timber. The 1 on the left side is flush mounted. The 1 on the right has been bored to the same depth as the flush mount but has the supplied star washer fitted on the underside of the saw bolt to seat it proud with the chamfer added. Its a nice way to present the differences between the 2 ways of installing them.
You will also note that the 2 types of counterbore are completely fitted out with depth stop & 3/16 pilot rod.

Regards Stewie.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0053_zps9ff0bed4.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0053_zps9ff0bed4.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0054_zps053384c8.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0054_zps053384c8.jpg.html)

[DSEL74]

What about a side shot and an angled shot to show how much variation there is in the height of the proud one?

If you were going for a flush fit and over tightened it you could always go back and retrofit the washer, no?

Based on this I assume you find that the bolt tightens without spinning fine minus the star washer?

[planemaker]

What about a side shot and an angled shot to show how much variation there is in the height of the proud one?

If you were going for a flush fit and over tightened it you could always go back and retrofit the washer, no?

Based on this I assume you find that the bolt tightens without spinning fine minus the star washer?

Hi Dale. Since using the counterbores I able to leave the 3/16 stem bore to a press fit and have not seen the need to use the washer to stop the bolt from spinning while tightening up the split nut but if going for the flush look it would do no harm to have the star washer installed under the split nut.

After using the counterbore it does pay to use a round file to ream the 3/16 hole lightly to make it easier to push the screw bolts in place. The round file I use has a dia thats near spot on to 3/16. Ideal. I think most chainsaw sharpening files would be of the same size. You might need to check that out prior to your demonstration day. Either that or pm me and I will add mine to the parcel I will send you. By the way the large counterbore in the photo is the one I am sending to you. The depth stop collar is already locked in place at the right height you will need. Just bore down until the stop is touching the handle face. You could also apply a strip of masking tape over the hole location prior to drilling and that should stop any surface marks coming from the underside of the depth stop.

Stewie;

[TobyC]

Oops, sorry Stewie, but I like the flush one, hands down.

[DSEL74]

Hi Dale. Since using the counterbores I able to leave the 3/16 stem bore to a press fit and have not seen the need to use the washer to stop the bolt from spinning while tightening up the split nut but if going for the flush look it would do no harm to have the star washer installed under the split nut.

After using the counterbore it does pay to use a round file to ream the 3/16 hole lightly to make it easier to push the screw bolts in place. The round file I use has a dia thats near spot on to 3/16. Ideal. I think most chainsaw sharpening files would be of the same size. You might need to check that out prior to your demonstration day. Either that or pm me and I will add mine to the parcel I will send you. By the way the large counterbore in the photo is the one I am sending to you. The depth stop collar is already locked in place at the right height you will need. Just bore down until the stop is touching the handle face. You could also apply a strip of masking tape over the hole location prior to drilling and that should stop any surface marks coming from the underside of the depth stop.

Stewie;


I am thinking it will be a few years before we know how they wear over time and need retightening. It is an interesting point as obviously it is easier to manufacture and fit the bolts without the square lip on the shank. Most makers are going that way and some don't even supply the star locking washer. Like you they feel they are not needed. It certainly makes life easier when it is kept simple.

I think I have an unused round file suitable that I picked out of someones hard rubbish two weeks ago, knew it be good for something!

[planemaker]

Oops, sorry Stewie, but I like the flush one, hands down.

Thats alright Toby. Since getting the counterbores fine tuned to reduce the gaps around the saw bolt flats I am back to thinking the same as you.

Stewie;

[planemaker]

I am thinking it will be a few years before we know how they wear over time and need retightening. It is an interesting point as obviously it is easier to manufacture and fit the bolts without the square lip on the shank. Most makers are going that way and some don't even supply the star locking washer. Like you they feel they are not needed. It certainly makes life easier when it is kept simple.

I think I have an unused round file suitable that I picked out of someones hard rubbish two weeks ago, knew it be good for something!

I agree with your observation Dale. The round shanks are much simpler to instal and work very well. I was just mentioning to Toby that since getting the counterbores to cut at a tighter tolerance I am now leaning towards the flush mounted as the preferred choice for future work. It also keeps the installation more straight forward.

Stewie;

[hiroller]

The large counterbore seems to have been made by Comsurge.
They do custom tooling if you want a 7/16.
ComSurge Tooling, Inc. (http://www.comsurge.com/custom.html)

[planemaker]

The large counterbore seems to have been made by Comsurge.
They do custom tooling if you want a 7/16.
ComSurge Tooling, Inc. (http://www.comsurge.com/custom.html)

I can confirm the larger size is manufactured by Comsurge.

Stewie;

[Sawdust Maker]

nice handles :2tsup:

[planemaker]

Thanks Nick.

[IanW]

I am thinking it will be a few years before we know how they wear over time and need retightening. It is an interesting point as obviously it is easier to manufacture and fit the bolts without the square lip on the shank. Most makers are going that way and some don't even supply the star locking washer. Like you they feel they are not needed. It certainly makes life easier when it is kept simple.

I think I have an unused round file suitable that I picked out of someones hard rubbish two weeks ago, knew it be good for something!

Well, I don't totally condone this system for a couple of reasons. Certainly, it's easier to make a simple round bolt, but having some sort of shank-locking provision is highly desirable, imo. For sure, you can tighten the nuts up easily when they are all nice & new, but once they corrode a little (inevitable over time, no matter how fussy you are!) it will be a very different story. So if I were using these bolts, I certainly wouldn't leave the lock washer out. It complicates flush-mounting, but doesn't make it impossible. I much prefer the share-shank bolts, which are a little more trouble to make, but you can't lose the square on the shank as easily as a washer. :U

Saw bolts seem to need tightening a few times on a new saw. Wood always wriggles a bit, and especially if you live in a climate with extremes (as ours seems to be, these last few years!). A couple of weeks ago, I had loose handles on just about every tool in my cupboard, saws, planes, the lot - even the very tightly-fitted hoops on some of my chisels were falling off! :~

I also find it easier to slip the handle off small saws for sharpening - being able to do that quickly & cleanly is a big plus.

As I've just said to Dale, I prefer to get my bolt-holes spot-on, but if you do need to tweak them, chainsaw files are the go, & handle saw-plate easily. They come in a bewildering range of sizes, starting from 1/8th inch (probably smaller, tho I haven't seen any smaller than that) and go up in 1/32nds.


I agree with your observation Dale. The round shanks are much simpler to install and work very well. I was just mentioning to Toby that since getting the counterbores to cut at a tighter tolerance I am now leaning towards the flush mounted as the preferred choice for future work. It also keeps the installation more straight forward.
Stewie;

Stewie, I usually flush-mount, too, but if I use a 'medallion' head, I think it looks better if set proud. Both ways can look quite effective, I think, but it's matter of personal taste.

I bore the countersinks to rough size initially, and tweak them on final assembly with a Forstner bit in my battery drill - a sharp Forstner cuts cleanly & it's quite easy to shave of a few thou at a time to get a perfect fit. Or, if you're nervous, leave the head/nut a fraction proud and sand it flush - 180 grit paper on a block soon whips them into shape (filing is even quicker if you trust yourself with a file - one slip & your nice new handle may have a very nasty scar!).

As always, there are lots of ways to get the covering off the cat, so it's a matter of what gear you've got & how you like to do it........

Cheers,

[planemaker]

Hi all. I took some vernier measurements of the countebore and the TFWW saw bolts I use. Same dia. found on 3 bolts I checked.

Counterbore (0.499 ") 12.67mm

saw bolts (0.493 ") 12.55 mm

Difference in dia. (0.006 ") 0.12mm

Stewie;

[planemaker]

Well, I don't totally condone this system for a couple of reasons. Certainly, it's easier to make a simple round bolt, but having some sort of shank-locking provision is highly desirable, imo. For sure, you can tighten the nuts up easily when they are all nice & new, but once they corrode a little (inevitable over time, no matter how fussy you are!) it will be a very different story. So if I were using these bolts, I certainly wouldn't leave the lock washer out. It complicates flush-mounting, but doesn't make it impossible. I much prefer the share-shank bolts, which are a little more trouble to make, but you can't lose the square on the shank as easily as a washer. :U

Saw bolts seem to need tightening a few times on a new saw. Wood always wriggles a bit, and especially if you live in a climate with extremes (as ours seems to be, these last few years!). A couple of weeks ago, I had loose handles on just about every tool in my cupboard, saws, planes, the lot - even the very tightly-fitted hoops on some of my chisels were falling off! :~

I also find it easier to slip the handle off small saws for sharpening - being able to do that quickly & cleanly is a big plus.

As I've just said to Dale, I prefer to get my bolt-holes spot-on, but if you do need to tweak them, chainsaw files are the go, & handle saw-plate easily. They come in a bewildering range of sizes, starting from 1/8th inch (probably smaller, tho I haven't seen any smaller than that) and go up in 1/32nds.



Stewie, I usually flush-mount, too, but if I use a 'medallion' head, I think it looks better if set proud. Both ways can look quite effective, I think, but it's matter of personal taste.

I bore the countersinks to rough size initially, and tweak them on final assembly with a Forstner bit in my battery drill - a sharp Forstner cuts cleanly & it's quite easy to shave of a few thou at a time to get a perfect fit. Or, if you're nervous, leave the head/nut a fraction proud and sand it flush - 180 grit paper on a block soon whips them into shape (filing is even quicker if you trust yourself with a file - one slip & your nice new handle may have a very nasty scar!).

As always, there are lots of ways to get the covering off the cat, so it's a matter of what gear you've got & how you like to do it........

Cheers,

Hi Ian. Always good value to get your views on the subject. I just posted some dia. measurements of the saw screws and counterbore I am using.

Stewie;

[Richie Rich]

Hi Stewie, Awesome saw and beautiful handles, On the race cars we use a serrated washer that is also cone shaped so it acts as a spring washer/locking washer all in one they are Schnorr washers, might be of use under the heads of your saw bolts to stop them loosening off!!!,
Cheers, Richie:2tsup::2tsup:

[planemaker]

Hi Stewie, Awesome saw and beautiful handles, On the race cars we use a serrated washer that is also cone shaped so it acts as a spring washer/locking washer all in one they are Schnorr washers, might be of use under the heads of your saw bolts to stop them loosening off!!!,
Cheers, Richie:2tsup::2tsup:

Thanks Richie. I checked them out just then on the bay. Very interesting.

Stewie;

[IanW]

Richie, the purpose of the washer in this application is not to prevent the nut loosening, but to prevent the bolt from turning during tightening/loosening of the nut (it's placed under the head of the bolt, not the nut). Since they're not holding a screaming, vibrating monster together, coming loose in use isn't the issue here. The bolts often do loosen over time, because the fibres of the wood crush a little under the expansion caused by periods of high humidity, or the saws may be taken to a drier environment where the EMC is much lower. It may be some time before tightening is necessary, or you need to dismantle the saw for some reason, by which time the threads may have gummed up a bit, & it will be much more difficult to move the nut if the washer isn't biting into the head & wood. That's why I suggest to not leave them out, even though it's easy to tighten them down without the washer when the threads are new & running freely.

However, I think the washer idea is not a totally satisfactory solution, because if the bolt is loose, the washer isn't going to bite as well, & may not hold against the extra force required to move a reluctant nut. If the nut isn't too frozen, you will probably be able to press hard on the bolt head with your thumb to help the washer get a better purchase, but it could get a bit awkward. Note that split nuts like these are open to the atmosphere and whatever gets spilt on them, so they are more prone to oxidising or becoming gummed-up. (Perhaps that's one reason why manufacturers switched to the closed type?)

In any case, it isn't going to be an issue at the coming workshop,'cos we have enough of these to go round, now:
291528

:U
Cheers,

[DSEL74]

Ian and i were discussing work holding while drilling the bolt holes in the tote. Wondering what you do to hold yours?? Drill Vise, Clamps, hand held??

[planemaker]

Ian and i were discussing work holding while drilling the bolt holes in the tote. Wondering what you do to hold yours?? Drill Vise, Clamps, hand held??

Hi Dale. Using a counterbore with the fitted pilot guide I feel quite comfortable holding the work piece by hand. When I was relying on forstner bit I would lock the workpiece down using the type of clamp shown in the photo's where I am adding the chamfer to the saw bolts on the pedestal drill.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0046_zpsb5a496b1.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/saw%20screw%20counterbores/DSC_0046_zpsb5a496b1.jpg.html)

[pmcgee]

Sorry for the distraction, but what wood is that 45-degree scrap block?


Oops, sorry Stewie, but I like the flush one, hands down.
I like my old saws ... I believe they were sanded down flush.

... But I love that you guys are continuing the process of making saws today. :2tsup:

Cheers,
Paul

[hiroller]

Looks like Douglas Fir (Oregon) to me.

[planemaker]

Looks like Douglas Fir (Oregon) to me.

Spot on.

[planemaker]

Making good progress on my new backsaw with the Jarrah handle. Just the saw sharpening to go. Will continue with the trend of 14 tpi. The heel of the saw plate is rather plain jane in appearance. Just for something different. The saw nuts are the ones with the chamfer added and seated slightly proud.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/jarrah%20backsaw/DSC_0055_zps7c28bb7c.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/jarrah%20backsaw/DSC_0055_zps7c28bb7c.jpg.html)

[DSEL74]

Making good progress on my new backsaw with the Jarrah handle. Just the saw sharpening to go. Will continue with the trend of 14 tpi. The heel of the saw plate is rather plain jane in appearance. Just for something different. The saw nuts are the ones with the chamfer added and seated slightly proud.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/jarrah%20backsaw/DSC_0055_zps7c28bb7c.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/jarrah%20backsaw/DSC_0055_zps7c28bb7c.jpg.html)


Looks nice Stewie!

What size is the blade??

It is hard to see but is that a tapered bevel on the top of the spine?? I have been playing with the idea of doing decorative filework on some of the spines.

[planemaker]

Hi Dale. The tooth line will end up being 11 1/2" x 3" deep. The deco mark on the brass back was made using a file.

Will post your parcel on Monday.

Stewie;

[hiroller]

I notice that Isaac tapers his saw nut heads.
I guess that is one way to ensure a tight fit.
Blackburn Tools - Split nut saw bolts (http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/saw-bolts/index.html)